Lifter tick help will mmo or motor flush help?

[Trey Hardy]

Looks like you got yourself a good old fashioned rear main seal leak there sonny. Along with possibly an oil sender,valve cover gaskets, and whatever can give up at 325k. LOL

I'd probably address the driveshaft sooner than later. I know they slide in quite a bit to make up for suspension travel, etc. But seeing your suspension is always traveling......away, you'll probably want more contact on the output shaft splines before they cease to exist.

Just cleaned up the valve covers the best I could I’ve ruled them out I believe it’s the oil sender possibly a pan gasket but more then likely the rear main seal leak I’ve had since I got it. That’s not getting fixed until I go to do a transmission or rebuild the motor

 

[89Suburban]

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Not horrible but still want to trace it out if possible
Also my yoke has been like this ever since lifting it im assuming I would need a longer yoke or extended driveshaft? Not problems so far but figured I’d get y’all’s opinions
View attachment 392762
Got new u joints I have to make the time to install

Welcome to the RM seal club. I have been chasing down oil leaks on this old girl since I bought it. Seems like every time I replace a gasket another old one blows out form the high mileage and crankcase pressure from blowby. I have 4WD so no way am I going to lay on my back to pull the trans and install a new RMS. Getting to old for that S.

Which means I would have to pay somebody a few grand to do it. I can't justify that expense for an engine getting ready to hit 350K.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Welcome to the RM seal club. I have been chasing down oil leaks on this old girl since I bought it. Seems like every time I replace a gasket another old one blows out form the high mileage and crankcase pressure from blowby. I have 4WD so no way am I going to lay on my back to pull the trans and install a new RMS. Getting to old for that S.

Which means I would have to pay somebody a few grand to do it. I can't justify that expense for an engine getting ready to hit 350K.

Same here! If i threw that kind of money into it I would be swapping in a 6.0-6.2 from the scrapyard

 

[donjetman]

@Trey Hardy
Here is the thread I did when I changed the rear main seal 4+ yrs and 54k miles ago (no regrets):
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

 

[j91z28d1]

I'm just going to throw this out there for the guys with super gunked up engines, first thing I'd do is turn off the afm. they basically need perfect oil to keep from galling up inside and sticking. it pretty must always happens, but more often with dirty or long run oil.

2nd there's an old trick and it seems to work, lots of youtube on it. where you drain some oil and add atf in it. then run it at idle for an hour or so to wash down what you can. my only add on to that is these oil filters bypass at 12psi. once the filter media restrict more than that it lets dirty oil by. while this is happening pretty much always a little bit besides maybe idle with a fresh filter (gm recently changed to a 22psi spring for newer engines lt based engines) wix has a filter without a bypass. it's 57026, you'll probably have to order it, it's mostly for industrial stuff, but it fits the ls based engines and is longer. pick one up and spin that on before doing the atf flush. just don't drive it or rev it hard. it's burst is like 250psi, so that's not a worry, just filling it up with junk and not having enough oil for the engine would be the only thing to watch for, but that said, if you do see the oil get low, that's a filter full of crap you just kept from dragging thru your bearings.


I've found that this guy's YouTube is a wealth of knowledge for lifter afm stuff, and he's got a message board to ask questions on. I've done his afm bypass, and I think it's well thought out and caught early, I expect it to last just as long as a full delete without needing to take the engine apart. just the intake

https://youtube.com/@CrazedPerformanceRepair

 

[gooffeyguy]

The oil filter bypass pressure rating is a differential of pressure between before and after the filter media

The Wix 57060 which is the cross reference for the OE ACDelco PF48 for our trucks has a 12psi bypass

The Wix WL10255 (cross reference for ACDelco PF63 which is a longer version for our trucks) has a 22psi bypass

Also, the Mobil M1-212, K&N HP2011, and Wix 57045 which are longer filters that fit our trucks all have a 12-15psi bypass

 

[robgreg75]

My 2010 collapsed a lifter at 278k miles, I pulled the head and replaced the lifter but it had damaged the cam so a lesser knock but still a knock after replaced. 280K now so 2k miles on the knock and it isn't getting louder. I know it isn't an exhaust leak since I can pull the rockers off that cylinder and no more knock.

 

[Trey Hardy]

My 2010 collapsed a lifter at 278k miles, I pulled the head and replaced the lifter but it had damaged the cam so a lesser knock but still a knock after replaced. 280K now so 2k miles on the knock and it isn't getting louder. I know it isn't an exhaust leak since I can pull the rockers off that cylinder and no more knock.

Did you check your pushrods and all also?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@robgreg75 Did you keep AFM and use the same cam?

@Trey Hardy When I did mine the pushrods looked good but I still replaced them

 

[Geotrash]

I know it isn't an exhaust leak since I can pull the rockers off that cylinder and no more knock.

An audible exhaust leak requires a combustion event. If you take the rockers off that cylinder, you don't get a combustion event.