The engine moves, the firewall doesn’t....Screw clamps, spring clamps, nipple clamps... Which one of you is gonna nut up and hard pipe your system with flux and solder or TIG?
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The engine moves, the firewall doesn’t....Screw clamps, spring clamps, nipple clamps... Which one of you is gonna nut up and hard pipe your system with flux and solder or TIG?
The engine moves, the firewall doesn’t....
I know, I know. Geez, I can't joke around you any more?!![]()
Just look at it. Lmao.Yeah, c'mon Mark. Would you just look at it already? It's pretty neat.
I guess if you’re still using a pair of channel locks to r&r the spring clamps you might have problems. Buy a pair of spring clamp pliers and you’ll be amazed how easy they are to use. Even in the most difficult places. They ratchet to hold the clamp open and swivel so you can position the pliers conveniently. The springs also hold a steady pressure forever, never a leak. That’s why car makers use them. Screw clamps cut into the hose from the expansion when it gets hot, unlike spring clamps.
OK more research on hose clamps for ya lol ... its been a real slow week.
Spring Clamps :
A. Wear out (loose tension) and CAN ONLY BE USED 1 TIME. After which, they must be replaced as spring clamps wont hold tension and can leak if reused. Therefore they must be replaced (thats more $ in labor which makes Mary and her stock holders much happier).
B. Are GREAT - if you want to precisely control the clamping force, so you dont damage the underlying tube, ESPECIALLY IF THAT UNDERLYING TUBE IS MADE FROM SHIT GM PLASTIC (which they seem to have their own inferior home brew recipe for and use in absolutely anything they can)
C. Installation of a spring clamp is very quick.
For these 3 reasons, most car makers use them as a cost cutter. But, does that mean they are better for us ? No !
Now, here is a great "compromise" clamp - its a worm clamp but has a "tail" that protects the screw and wont dig into the hose. So you can tighten it down reasonably tight for all temperatures on earth and not have leakage issues (provided you arent clamping down onto a shit GM plastic tube), and also not cut into the hose like a traditional worm clamp may. They are also cheap, thin, easy to install, easy to find, and can be reused a bajillion times (in case, you know, you ever feel like doing that heater core job more than once in your life)
https://www.mcmaster.com/worm-drive-clamps-for-soft-hose
Your thoughts are appreciated here but Im going to suggest these to Gruven.
Show me the proof to back up your A statement above. I would like to know who told you they can only be used one time and must be replaced, and if they were to be replaced, how would that result in more labor since they would already be off. It’s no more labor to put a new one on than the old one. If springs lose tension simply by exercising them a couple times, then you’d better buy a ton of coil springs or leaf springs for your vehicles because every time you drive, they will lose their tension. I have reused spring clamps a few times over and never had a leak. If you don’t like them, so be it. You’re in the minority. You aren’t going to convince anybody here with your opinions. Use screw clamps, if that’s what you like.OK more research on hose clamps for ya lol ... its been a real slow week.
Spring Clamps :
A. Wear out (loose tension) and CAN ONLY BE USED 1 TIME. After which, they must be replaced as spring clamps wont hold tension and can leak if reused. Therefore they must be replaced (thats more $ in labor which makes Mary and her stock holders much happier).
B. Are GREAT - if you want to precisely control the clamping force, so you dont damage the underlying tube, ESPECIALLY IF THAT UNDERLYING TUBE IS MADE FROM SHIT GM PLASTIC (which they seem to have their own inferior home brew recipe for and use in absolutely anything they can)
C. Installation of a spring clamp is very quick.
For these 3 reasons, most car makers use them as a cost cutter. But, does that mean they are better for us ? No !
Now, here is a great "compromise" clamp - its a worm clamp but has a "tail" that protects the screw and wont dig into the hose. So you can tighten it down reasonably tight for all temperatures on earth and not have leakage issues (provided you arent clamping down onto a shit GM plastic tube), and also not cut into the hose like a traditional worm clamp may. They are also cheap, thin, easy to install, easy to find, and can be reused a bajillion times (in case, you know, you ever feel like doing that heater core job more than once in your life)
https://www.mcmaster.com/worm-drive-clamps-for-soft-hose
Your thoughts are appreciated here but Im going to suggest these to Gruven.
I used those on a Harley Davidson V-Rod’s coolant hose but only because looks mattered since it was right in plain sight but I’d never use one unless I had to. It was a PIA. Maybe they’ve gotten easier though. You know what they say though- pics or it didn’t happen!Spring clamps, worm clamps, those are old school. You want a clamp, you need these:
View attachment 228830
Think about how tight an area you can get those! Of course, you need room for the heat gun.
But seriously, they have worked well for three years now on my Tahoe. No leaks, no fuss. Look nice as well.
The downside, they are NOT reusable.
Mine leaked. Bread was fresh though.Twist ties FTW. Hundreds of them for free on aisle 3 at Walmart. Just be considerate and twist the bag and tuck the end under the bread after you nab the tie off of it.
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I've always called those T-bolt clamps. I use those on my Vortech blower output on my 5.0 mustang. Hold well under boost.If you really want to go crazy about clamps they make a worm drive clamp that incorporates a spring to mimic the effectiveness of the factory style spring clamps. This would reinforce what is well known- spring clamps do a better job by providing a constant force under both extreme heat and cold conditions.View attachment 228828
They make the regular T-bolt clamps but that’s a T-bolt with a spring added. It’s made specifically for silicone hose.I've always called those T-bolt clamps. I use those on my Vortech blower output on my 5.0 mustang. Hold well under boost.
Also, I agree about factory spring clamps being reusable. I still use the 24 year old factory spring clamps that came on my '95s radiator and heater hoses..... Lol
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
I would entertain those as a possible idea. But I still prefer traditional spring clamps.If you really want to go crazy about clamps they make a worm drive clamp that incorporates a spring to mimic the effectiveness of the factory style spring clamps. This would reinforce what is well known- spring clamps do a better job by providing a constant force under both extreme heat and cold conditions.View attachment 228828
Exactly, and in fact most of the ones used for the last 20 years or so have a built-in limiter tab that stops you from opening them too far so you CANT damage them.I would entertain those as a possible idea. But I still prefer traditional spring clamps.
The only info I've been able to find on the "one time use" claim was a post on BITOG from 2013. I've visited their site and was unable to locate that info. I have never read a mention in a service or technical manual that the things need to be replaced. It's been my experience that unless you damage it by exceeding the yield point of the spring steel they use (which by the way is rather difficult to do) they work well beyond the life of the vehicle.
Exactly, and in fact most of the ones used for the last 20 years or so have a built-in limiter tab that stops you from opening them too far so you CANT damage them.