Gruven heater core T-connectors

[jatkinson8755]

Nice ! Always go metal when you can.

https://www.gruvenparts.com/shop-by-car/gm-truck

 

[j91z28d1]

I know I'm being lazy and this is a old thread. but anyone have the part number for the oem gm white and back T's? all I find is the Dorman stuff.

 

[89Suburban]

I know I'm being lazy and this is a old thread. but anyone have the part number for the oem gm white and back T's? all I find is the Dorman stuff.

There are actually 3 parts. Black is outboard and white is inboard with the 3rd straight black connector plugged onto that. I would do them all because they are all equally prone to failure:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F671434/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9KTAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GV8RNIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[j91z28d1]

There are actually 3 parts. Black is outboard and white is inboard with the 3rd straight black connector plugged onto that. I would do them all because they are all equally prone to failure:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F671434/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9KTAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GV8RNIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

View attachment 396222

thank you. that will. make it much easier. I'm guessing you just squeeze the tabs and pull? no tool needed to remove?

it's got 140k on it and a 2011. so yeah it's due for a coolent flush anyways. good time to do it.


thanks again.

 

[Geotrash]

thank you. that will. make it much easier. I'm guessing you just squeeze the tabs and pull? no tool needed to remove?

it's got 140k on it and a 2011. so yeah it's due for a coolent flush anyways. good time to do it.


thanks again.

Squeeze the tabs and push in on the hose before you pull. I used a pair of pliers to help me squeeze the tabs.

 

[89Suburban]

You can also try to spin them back and forth a little but ain't much room to do it.

 

[Larryjb]

I believe I had to cut mine off. I had tried squeezing the tabs and it wouldn't budge.

 

[donjetman]

It was a giant PITA when I removed the plastic and installed the Gruven metal Ts.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Wear gloves when working in that area, as the firewall insulation is quite aggressive, and your hands will itch like H-e-l-l for the next few days.

 

[Warriorpluto]

I just did this on my truck. I ended up using a small saw from my friend to cut off those crappy connectors. Ill go with the gruven maybe next month when i address every hose in the cooling system. But what about the rear? I didnread that the rear heater core has some problem with the line breaking or something.

 

[j91z28d1]

I just did this on my truck. I ended up using a small saw from my friend to cut off those crappy connectors. Ill go with the gruven maybe next month when i address every hose in the cooling system. But what about the rear? I didnread that the rear heater core has some problem with the line breaking or something.

I have the plastic replacement ones for the rear. Dorman seems to be the only ones in that size. I got the part number off here. but I haven't got around to replacing them.

another guy had a hard time getting them off and the hose on the other end is a factory crimp fit to metal pipe. doesn't look fun job and I got lazy. I can look up the part number if you need it but they are plastic

 

[rdezs]

I did my rear heater hoses, and modified the OEM heater pipes. No more crimp fitting. Also use the Dorman fitting, 3/4 in to 5/8 hose barb

This is where I trimmed the heater pipes above the spare tire

 

[j91z28d1]

that's very nicely done.

 

[donjetman]

Gruven T's, DO IT
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/heater-core-t-connectors-broke.116171/

 

[Ilikemtb999]

The straight connector is not needed for trucks with rear heat.

You CANNOT use a Gruven T-connector to replace the Y-connector down by the water pump BUT you can buy the Dorman 626-553 which is a direct replacement made from aluminum. That is what I used.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/113134563530

View attachment 237918

View attachment 237919

The only way you can buy it is with hoses. They don't sell it separately, I called Dorman and asked.

I didn't see this info posted but you can get that Y separate now dorman part number 47157!

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47157-Radiator-Connector-Chevrolet/dp/B08Z647QV4/ref=pd_lpo_d_sccl_2/138-9400278-2727900?pd_rd_w=KX6kO&content-id=amzn1.sym.4c8c52db-06f8-4e42-8e56-912796f2ea6c&pf_rd_p=4c8c52db-06f8-4e42-8e56-912796f2ea6c&pf_rd_r=HRY40WEA3QGH39HV1DTN&pd_rd_wg=aniFE&pd_rd_r=4a89fbbc-ac10-465f-80f0-5e9ca7e9ec75&pd_rd_i=B08Z647QV4&psc=1

 

[donjetman]

or
New heater hose w/metal y fitting, Dorman# 626-553 or NAPA# 827-5730-1

 

[Ilikemtb999]

or
New heater hose w/metal y fitting, Dorman# 626-553 or NAPA# 827-5730-1

That’s what I quoted from KB