TollKeeper
Full Access Member
Cant help you on this one... Ford is not my arena!
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I would bet that the fluctuating oil pressure would effect any VVT solenoids. Does GM use these solenoids in any years/models?Cant help you on this one... Ford is not my arena!
This answered a question I've been meaning to ask. Can one remove the cross member and raise the transfer case/transmission to clear the exhaust to change the pan gasket and filter. I see you left the cross member attached, just lifted everything after unbolting the mount.Finished the 2018 Suburban today. Sorry, no pics. cramped quarters under there and just wanted to get done. Was working in 40-42 degree weather. Removed the 2 nuts that bolted the transmission mount to the crossmember and lifted at the transfer case and then had enough room to unbolt and remove the transmission pan. The deep end of the pan was completely open and the exhaust was close to the shallow end. I had my normal round drain pan but had recently bought a much larger round catch pan that had holes in the center and it set on the drain pan and I did not spill a drop. When the deep end of pan was down, I started pushing up and ten releasing it and when it dropped, the fluid in the deep end sloshed out to the catch pan. Then it was almost empty and very light and easy to snake the shallow end out between the exposed transmission components and the exhaust. Pulled it all out and wiped it all down and installed new filter and the gasket surface at the housing was dry and I attached the holder tabs and set the pan up and started all the pan bolts. Tightened back and forth. lowered the transmission and reattached at the crossmember. It took exactly 6 quarts of Dex VI to bring to full when hot. Took off of the ramps and then rotated the tires and road test went smooth. Planning on a 30 mile road test over the next 3 days. Landlord back on the 29th.
At the end of all this, with my discount on parts and the labor fee I charge him, the total will be in the neighborhood of $2500.
I unbolted the mount, 2 nuts, from the crossmember and lifted with a floor jack and that left enough room to remove the pan and gasket as one. I then removed the filter. Plenty of room. I made sure the threaded studs on the mount lined up with the elongated crossmember holes and dropped down when done. Be aware, you do not just jack up the end of transfer case, metal on metal. I used a small block of wood. I also lifted till I could see there was no more overhead room. Listen carefully and lift slowly. I unbolted the very rear two pan bolts last and as the front of pan dropped, with fluid in it, when the pan tilted down as far as the exhaust would allow, I used my big drain pan and would lift and then drop the front of pan to slosh out the fluid. When it would not flop any more fluid out, it was very light and easy to maneuver. I turned the front of pan to the p/s and pulled pan out at a bit more than a 45 degree angle.This answered a question I've been meaning to ask. Can one remove the cross member and raise the transfer case/transmission to clear the exhaust to change the pan gasket and filter. I see you left the cross member attached, just lifted everything after unbolting the mount.
Yeap, every 3.6HF engine, and every EcoTech engine for sure. I would imagine every engine with a VVT has it, like the later 5.3/6.0/6.2 engines.I would bet that the fluctuating oil pressure would effect any VVT solenoids. Does GM use these solenoids in any years/models?
Thanks. I bought a new trans mount, so when I replace the filter and gasket it'll get a new mount, too. I'd planned on pumping out the fluid before dropping the pan, since I don't have the type of pan setup you do. Definitely would use a block of wood between the jack and transfer case, was taught that as a young-un.I unbolted the mount, 2 nuts, from the crossmember and lifted with a floor jack and that left enough room to remove the pan and gasket as one. I then removed the filter. Plenty of room. I made sure the threaded studs on the mount lined up with the elongated crossmember holes and dropped down when done. Be aware, you do not just jack up the end of transfer case, metal on metal. I used a small block of wood. I also lifted till I could see there was no more overhead room. Listen carefully and lift slowly. I unbolted the very rear two pan bolts last and as the front of pan dropped, with fluid in it, when the pan tilted down as far as the exhaust would allow, I used my big drain pan and would lift and then drop the front of pan to slosh out the fluid. When it would not flop any more fluid out, it was very light and easy to maneuver. I turned the front of pan to the p/s and pulled pan out at a bit more than a 45 degree angle.
I put some oil cleansing Sea Foam in the oil. Running it for 250 miles and then gonna change oil again. Then another Sea Foam treatment and gonna run another 250 miles. Then am gonna drop the oil pan, thank God this is a 2wd, change out the oil pickup tube and o-ring, drop the oil filter adaptor and clean out and change the gasket, new FL820S Motorcraft filter, new sender and oil level/temp sensor in pan, Valvoline Restore and Protect oil and oil drain plug and gasket. Will be attaching my oil pressure gauge before sender and monitor.Over a 7 day period, the above 2010 F150 with a 5.4L 3 valve engine was/is having a reoccuring code P0016-Crankshaft and Camshaft Correlation problem on bank 1 sensor A. That would be p/s head and inner camshaft which is intake valves. 18k miles and 4 years ago had Cloyes timing kit and tensioners with Ford phasers. About 6 months before that had cheap generic cam sensors and VVT solenoids done. The owner has extensive paperwork for repairs and maintenance. The engine is quiet, cold and hot. I just replaced both cam sensors, VVT solenoids and crank sensor with Ford parts. When valve covers were off I inspected as deep as I can and saw no slack in chains and like I said, can sit overnight and no cold engine clatter noise, so no hydraulic tensioner bleed off.
I can clear pending and stored P0016 code but Permanent code will not clear. I know the problem is not fixed. It runs and idles fine. Shows good oil pressure at cluster gauge but when has a mechanical gauge attached, it shows minimum of 42 psi hot and high at 46 psi when cold. What it is doing is fluctuating between 42 and 46 at idle with the mechanical needle fluttering fast with engine speed and timing is fluctuating by 8 degrees when this is happening. That is happening on the p/s head. The VVT is reacting to the oil pressure flutter. I can clear the pending and stored codes and the CEL goes out and I can drive it on a 10 mile trip and no CEL and no code till back at home and at stop and go from drive to reverse. This oil pressure fluctuation was discovered today when I had at a friend's specialty shop for an ECM reflash. They did not shoot a video and their explanation makes complete sense. I had done 2 crank sensor relearns on my Autel scanner and showed successful but the relearns are not done at idle shifting from drive to reverse. Also, the oil flow on these engines is from pump and thru lower end and then the d/s head and then across to d/s head.
So...any thoughts on the fluctuating oil pressure that is raising hell with the p/s VVT solenoid?