There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[TollKeeper]

Cant help you on this one... Ford is not my arena!

 

[OR VietVet]

Cant help you on this one... Ford is not my arena!

I would bet that the fluctuating oil pressure would effect any VVT solenoids. Does GM use these solenoids in any years/models?

 

[DoubleDingo]

Finished the 2018 Suburban today. Sorry, no pics. cramped quarters under there and just wanted to get done. Was working in 40-42 degree weather. Removed the 2 nuts that bolted the transmission mount to the crossmember and lifted at the transfer case and then had enough room to unbolt and remove the transmission pan. The deep end of the pan was completely open and the exhaust was close to the shallow end. I had my normal round drain pan but had recently bought a much larger round catch pan that had holes in the center and it set on the drain pan and I did not spill a drop. When the deep end of pan was down, I started pushing up and ten releasing it and when it dropped, the fluid in the deep end sloshed out to the catch pan. Then it was almost empty and very light and easy to snake the shallow end out between the exposed transmission components and the exhaust. Pulled it all out and wiped it all down and installed new filter and the gasket surface at the housing was dry and I attached the holder tabs and set the pan up and started all the pan bolts. Tightened back and forth. lowered the transmission and reattached at the crossmember. It took exactly 6 quarts of Dex VI to bring to full when hot. Took off of the ramps and then rotated the tires and road test went smooth. Planning on a 30 mile road test over the next 3 days. Landlord back on the 29th.

At the end of all this, with my discount on parts and the labor fee I charge him, the total will be in the neighborhood of $2500.

This answered a question I've been meaning to ask. Can one remove the cross member and raise the transfer case/transmission to clear the exhaust to change the pan gasket and filter. I see you left the cross member attached, just lifted everything after unbolting the mount.

 

[OR VietVet]

This answered a question I've been meaning to ask. Can one remove the cross member and raise the transfer case/transmission to clear the exhaust to change the pan gasket and filter. I see you left the cross member attached, just lifted everything after unbolting the mount.

I unbolted the mount, 2 nuts, from the crossmember and lifted with a floor jack and that left enough room to remove the pan and gasket as one. I then removed the filter. Plenty of room. I made sure the threaded studs on the mount lined up with the elongated crossmember holes and dropped down when done. Be aware, you do not just jack up the end of transfer case, metal on metal. I used a small block of wood. I also lifted till I could see there was no more overhead room. Listen carefully and lift slowly. I unbolted the very rear two pan bolts last and as the front of pan dropped, with fluid in it, when the pan tilted down as far as the exhaust would allow, I used my big drain pan and would lift and then drop the front of pan to slosh out the fluid. When it would not flop any more fluid out, it was very light and easy to maneuver. I turned the front of pan to the p/s and pulled pan out at a bit more than a 45 degree angle.

 

[TollKeeper]

I would bet that the fluctuating oil pressure would effect any VVT solenoids. Does GM use these solenoids in any years/models?

Yeap, every 3.6HF engine, and every EcoTech engine for sure. I would imagine every engine with a VVT has it, like the later 5.3/6.0/6.2 engines.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I unbolted the mount, 2 nuts, from the crossmember and lifted with a floor jack and that left enough room to remove the pan and gasket as one. I then removed the filter. Plenty of room. I made sure the threaded studs on the mount lined up with the elongated crossmember holes and dropped down when done. Be aware, you do not just jack up the end of transfer case, metal on metal. I used a small block of wood. I also lifted till I could see there was no more overhead room. Listen carefully and lift slowly. I unbolted the very rear two pan bolts last and as the front of pan dropped, with fluid in it, when the pan tilted down as far as the exhaust would allow, I used my big drain pan and would lift and then drop the front of pan to slosh out the fluid. When it would not flop any more fluid out, it was very light and easy to maneuver. I turned the front of pan to the p/s and pulled pan out at a bit more than a 45 degree angle.

Thanks. I bought a new trans mount, so when I replace the filter and gasket it'll get a new mount, too. I'd planned on pumping out the fluid before dropping the pan, since I don't have the type of pan setup you do. Definitely would use a block of wood between the jack and transfer case, was taught that as a young-un.

 

[OR VietVet]

Over a 7 day period, the above 2010 F150 with a 5.4L 3 valve engine was/is having a reoccuring code P0016-Crankshaft and Camshaft Correlation problem on bank 1 sensor A. That would be p/s head and inner camshaft which is intake valves. 18k miles and 4 years ago had Cloyes timing kit and tensioners with Ford phasers. About 6 months before that had cheap generic cam sensors and VVT solenoids done. The owner has extensive paperwork for repairs and maintenance. The engine is quiet, cold and hot. I just replaced both cam sensors, VVT solenoids and crank sensor with Ford parts. When valve covers were off I inspected as deep as I can and saw no slack in chains and like I said, can sit overnight and no cold engine clatter noise, so no hydraulic tensioner bleed off.
I can clear pending and stored P0016 code but Permanent code will not clear. I know the problem is not fixed. It runs and idles fine. Shows good oil pressure at cluster gauge but when has a mechanical gauge attached, it shows minimum of 42 psi hot and high at 46 psi when cold. What it is doing is fluctuating between 42 and 46 at idle with the mechanical needle fluttering fast with engine speed and timing is fluctuating by 8 degrees when this is happening. That is happening on the p/s head. The VVT is reacting to the oil pressure flutter. I can clear the pending and stored codes and the CEL goes out and I can drive it on a 10 mile trip and no CEL and no code till back at home and at stop and go from drive to reverse. This oil pressure fluctuation was discovered today when I had at a friend's specialty shop for an ECM reflash. They did not shoot a video and their explanation makes complete sense. I had done 2 crank sensor relearns on my Autel scanner and showed successful but the relearns are not done at idle shifting from drive to reverse. Also, the oil flow on these engines is from pump and thru lower end and then the d/s head and then across to d/s head.
So...any thoughts on the fluctuating oil pressure that is raising hell with the p/s VVT solenoid?

I put some oil cleansing Sea Foam in the oil. Running it for 250 miles and then gonna change oil again. Then another Sea Foam treatment and gonna run another 250 miles. Then am gonna drop the oil pan, thank God this is a 2wd, change out the oil pickup tube and o-ring, drop the oil filter adaptor and clean out and change the gasket, new FL820S Motorcraft filter, new sender and oil level/temp sensor in pan, Valvoline Restore and Protect oil and oil drain plug and gasket. Will be attaching my oil pressure gauge before sender and monitor.
I may also pull the valve covers and check the VVT solenoids and clean before reinstall. If still have fluttering/fluctuating oil pressure, gonna get rid of truck. Not tearing in to the chains and oil pump.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have preached some of these things, over and over, till I am blue in the face and still the vehicle owner wants a band aid and does not understand why some things happen. They seem to always leave proof of other habits, smoking and alcohol and fast food, in the interior and complain about not having the money for anything other than what they "have" to do. I don't care about your habits but quit abusing your second biggest investment. Again, "Maintenance Pays and Breakdowns Cost".

https://www.msn.com/en-us/movies/reviews/i-asked-my-mechanic-a-tough-question-how-do-i-make-my-car-last-300-000-miles-his-answer-changed-the-way-i-care-for-my-vehicle/ss-AA1VYEY3?ocid=hpmsn&cvid=957ef00be4d449b7c9b09651702613b6&ei=160

By the way, "lifetime transmission fluid" MY ASS!!!!

 

[OR VietVet]

Got the 2010 F150 5.4 here on Friday and immediately removed the old oil pressure switch and installed my mechanical oil pressure gauge and did a cold start reading. I did not do a video but recent hot engine test showed 40-45 psi pressure and the needle was fluttering. The cold start I did showed 65-70 psi and again the fluttering. Removed gauge and installed a new switch. Then proceeded to remove the 4 bolts holding the crossmember and removed 3 bolts/nuts that were holding the transmission cooling lines and electrical harness to the passenger side of the oil pan and then could see the pan bolts on that side. The tricky ones are the front 4 oil pan bolts because of another crossmember in the way. You can reach thru the front and get to them or use the super flex adaptor you see in the pic.

I removed the rest of the pan bolts and because of it being a 2wd, it was very easy to drop the pan down. Then I saw what I did not want to see. plastic bits in the pickup tube screen and if you look close, you will see an eyelet on one of the 3 chunks I dug out of the corner area where the pickup tube bolts to bottom of the oil pump. The guide for the chain, on the driver's side was coming apart. When I had the valve covers off, for the VVT solenoids, I looked for loose chains at top and as far as I could see down in the timing cover and found/saw no problems. Again, I did not do a video but the d/s chain was tight at the bottom of the crank gear but the chain was floppy loose where it left the crank gear and went up to the guide. I dug the chunks out and I was amazed that the chunks never rubbed anywhere on the chain and therefore caused any odd noises because I listened several times with my mechanic's stethoscope, top and bottom of engine.

She had the timing chains and phasers replaced 50k miles ago and is out of warranty, BUT, her cousin is a tech at the garage that did the work and they are going to allow her to supply parts, that I ordered at RA, and are going to do the work at 1/2 labor price. The truck is being towed away this morning.

I am so happy that I never owned a FORD product. These VVT solenoid V8 Ford engines are crap and it is well documented with text and video all over the internet. See pics.

 

[OR VietVet]

Some of you may have noticed that my work in the driveway is slowing down. That is on purpose. I am getting older by the day, my inguinal hernia gives me fits at times and I have to take breaks more often when doing these jobs. I also want to start taking more trips with my girl, Linda, and eventually.....I hate to say this.....I will be stopping most work except for simple oil changes and just under hood simple work or maybe.....dare I say it.....stop working on vehicles altogether. If that happens, my complete set of tools will be for sale. Both Snap On boxes and all tools in them plus 1 of my 2 floor jacks and other items that are not in my boxes. This set of tools is for a hard core DIY'er or an existing tech in a shop or for a guy/girl that wants to start a career that A-I will not take over. Depending on how my body holds up over the spring and summer, that will determine how quick I "MAY" sell the tools.

You can ask me questions here or in PM.

 

[Fless]

Some of you may have noticed that my work in the driveway is slowing down. That is on purpose. I am getting older by the day, my inguinal hernia gives me fits at times and I have to take breaks more often when doing these jobs. I also want to start taking more trips with my girl, Linda, and eventually.....I hate to say this.....I will be stopping most work except for simple oil changes and just under hood simple work or maybe.....dare I say it.....stop working on vehicles altogether. If that happens, my complete set of tools will be for sale. Both Snap On boxes and all tools in them plus 1 of my 2 floor jacks and other items that are not in my boxes. This set of tools is for a hard core DIY'er or an existing tech in a shop or for a guy/girl that wants to start a career that A-I will not take over. Depending on how my body holds up over the spring and summer, that will determine how quick I "MAY" sell the tools.

You can ask me questions here or in PM.

If I were you I'd seriously consider the lap surgery for the hernia. I had it done (bilateral) and recovery was quick with no ill after-effects; it hasn't bothered me in years now and my quality of life is better. It might not extend your "work" but it would likely help you enjoy life in general a bit more. What does your doctor recommend?

 

[OR VietVet]

If I were you I'd seriously consider the lap surgery for the hernia. I had it done (bilateral) and recovery was quick with no ill after-effects; it hasn't bothered me in years now and my quality of life is better. It might not extend your "work" but it would likely help you enjoy life in general a bit more. What does your doctor recommend?

I have an appointment with doctor on April 6 for a consult on what is in the future.

 

[OR VietVet]

This is a copy of what I posted at the other 2 forums I belong to, that @Shaggy and @Griffin own, GMT400 and GMT800:

With an inguinal hernia flaring up and as I get older I seem to be slowing down and ache more, I am planning on taking on less and less work and traveling more with my girl, Linda. I still have the desire to do the work but those final days are coming, likely within the next 2 years.

I am putting this out there to make sense of what I am going to say next. When I stop, I stop and will pay someone else to do the work, including oil changes. At that point, I will be selling my tools. Both Snap on boxes and all tools in them. 1 floor jack and any related stands, ramps and tools that are outside the boxes.

This set of tools is for a very hard core DIY'er, an existing shop tech or a guy/gal that wants to get in a career that A-I will not replace. The tools are 90% Snap On, Mac, Matco, SK, Craftsman USA, ICON, Blue Point, Gearwrench.......etc.

They will not go cheap and will not be sold separately. Retail price is between $70k to $80k. Out the garage door is no where near that and any reasonable price will be accepted. Again, I am saying this now so that if someone is serious about this, they will have time to mull it over and also get funds together.

I am 73 and my girl is 78. We want to travel. Why not. She is a retired American Airlines flight attendant, with close to 45 years at the company. She and I could fly for free. I like to drive more and she does too. Wouldn't bother me a bit to pass on while looking at the Majestic Beauty of Crater Lake, Oregon. That sight/place makes me go "WOW" every time I see it.