There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

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OR VietVet

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Next door neighbor's 2010 Camry with the 2.5 engine. He had at dealer and they sold him a battery and a positive cable end, the end for $48.66. Just a nice solid clamp with a stud to attach the wires. Said that he needed alternator because it was noisey and needed to be done sooner than later. I found that the rear tensioner is a dual pulley design and a PITA to do. Between coming at the 3 attaching bolts from the top front, the top rear reaching way down and removing rf tire and shield, thru the wheel well. Everything is done by feel and there is tight enough quarters that you cannot put a small Snap On 1/4" drive ratchet and a short 10mm socket and back all the way out without hitting the side of the engine compartment. Did a water pump because was leaking and stained at weep hole and thermostat and housing. Best to remove electric fans for the housing. Doing the alternator because when I tested it I found two things: loud whine that stops when unplug alternator and when running and have lights, blower, turn signals and radio on, it would only try to charge but was losing voltage the whole time and would not catch up after an engine start. He complained of oil leak and I found a leak at the loose oil drain plug. Getting the tensioner for the alternator belt and doing the oil change and both belts. Most was easy enough but this old 70 year old guy was developing new cuss words for that twin pulley rear tensioner. After done, I came to the conclusion that the tensioner would be easier if you unhooked the front lower motor mount and the passenger side rear dog bone mount and the top front mount and raise the engine. Gonna finish the alternator and tensioner tomorrow morning, not here till tomorrow from RA and Fed Ex. Oil change too and refill coolant. It's gonna pay good though at $75 an hour.

They were telling him that the alternator replacement would be $925. Just effing WOW!
 
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Doubeleive

Wes
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Next door neighbor's 2010 Camry with the 2.5 engine. He had at dealer and they sold him a battery and a positive cable end, the end for $48.66. Just a nice solid clamp with a stud to attach the wires. Said that he needed alternator because it was noisey and needed to be done sooner than later. I found that the rear tensioner is a dual pulley design and a PITA to do. Between coming at the 3 attaching bolts from the top front, the top rear reaching way down and removing rf tire and shield, thru the wheel well. Everything is done by feel and there is tight enough quarters that you cannot put a small Snap On 1/4" drive ratchet and a short 10mm socket and back all the way out without hitting the side of the engine compartment. Did a water pump because was leaking and stained at weep hole and thermostat and housing. Best to remove electric fans for the housing. Doing the alternator because when I tested it I found two things: loud whine that stops when unplug alternator and when running and have lights, blower, turn signals and radio on, it would only try to charge but was losing voltage the whole time and would not catch up after an engine start. He complained of oil leak and I found a leak at the loose oil drain plug. Getting the tensioner for the alternator belt and doing the oil change and both belts. Most was easy enough but this old 70 year old guy was developing new cuss words for that twin pulley rear tensioner. Afetr done, I came to the conclusion that the tensioner would be easier if you unhooked the front lower motor mount and the passenger side rear dog bone mount and raise the engine. Gonna finish the alternator and tensioner tomorrow morning, not here till tomorrow from RA and Fed Ex. Oil change too and refill coolant. It's gonna pay good though at $75 an hour.

They were telling him that the alternator replacement would be $925. Just effing WOW!
you could end up needing one of those special belt tensioner tools from the sounds of it, getting the belt off may not be a issue, that comes when trying to put it back on. I fought my sisters chrylser trying to get a belt back on and not having to drive for an hour to get the tool, pfft ended up getting the tool not sure how much time I spent trying to get the belt on but it was a while....
 
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OR VietVet

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
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you could end up needing one of those special belt tensioner tools from the sounds of it, getting the belt off may not be a issue, that comes when trying to put it back on. I fought my sisters chrylser trying to get a belt back on and not having to drive for an hour to get the tool, pfft ended up getting the tool not sure how much time I spent trying to get the belt on but it was a while....
I have a serpentine/tensioner tool kit and there was not enough room to get the head of it in there. I used a Snap On 14mm combination wrench to move tensioner. The inner most belt is the alternator/a/c & tensioner belt and I have that routed and pulled tight around the crank and a/c compressor and have it pulled up and has tension on it with a zip tie pulled up to an a/c hose. The outer belt is the power steering belt and that goes around crank too and both pulleys of the rear tensioner and that belt is on and seated and ready to go.
 
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OR VietVet

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
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I like turning wrenches as a hobby but definitely won't be turning them at 70.
I like fixing my own vehicles and will have work done when it does require a lift because I have a friend that owns a shop and he gives me great deals and even lets me use the lift at times. I turn wrenches to make extra cash. I charge $75 an hour. I pick and choose what I want to work on. I shut down for longer times when me and the girl take off for parts unknown. Works for me and I am still getting around like a 40-50 year old, so I will keep on.
 

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