There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

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OR VietVet

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Next door neighbor's 2010 Camry with the 2.5 engine. He had at dealer and they sold him a battery and a positive cable end, the end for $48.66. Just a nice solid clamp with a stud to attach the wires. Said that he needed alternator because it was noisey and needed to be done sooner than later. I found that the rear tensioner is a dual pulley design and a PITA to do. Between coming at the 3 attaching bolts from the top front, the top rear reaching way down and removing rf tire and shield, thru the wheel well. Everything is done by feel and there is tight enough quarters that you cannot put a small Snap On 1/4" drive ratchet and a short 10mm socket and back all the way out without hitting the side of the engine compartment. Did a water pump because was leaking and stained at weep hole and thermostat and housing. Best to remove electric fans for the housing. Doing the alternator because when I tested it I found two things: loud whine that stops when unplug alternator and when running and have lights, blower, turn signals and radio on, it would only try to charge but was losing voltage the whole time and would not catch up after an engine start. He complained of oil leak and I found a leak at the loose oil drain plug. Getting the tensioner for the alternator belt and doing the oil change and both belts. Most was easy enough but this old 70 year old guy was developing new cuss words for that twin pulley rear tensioner. After done, I came to the conclusion that the tensioner would be easier if you unhooked the front lower motor mount and the passenger side rear dog bone mount and the top front mount and raise the engine. Gonna finish the alternator and tensioner tomorrow morning, not here till tomorrow from RA and Fed Ex. Oil change too and refill coolant. It's gonna pay good though at $75 an hour.

They were telling him that the alternator replacement would be $925. Just effing WOW!
 
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Next door neighbor's 2010 Camry with the 2.5 engine. He had at dealer and they sold him a battery and a positive cable end, the end for $48.66. Just a nice solid clamp with a stud to attach the wires. Said that he needed alternator because it was noisey and needed to be done sooner than later. I found that the rear tensioner is a dual pulley design and a PITA to do. Between coming at the 3 attaching bolts from the top front, the top rear reaching way down and removing rf tire and shield, thru the wheel well. Everything is done by feel and there is tight enough quarters that you cannot put a small Snap On 1/4" drive ratchet and a short 10mm socket and back all the way out without hitting the side of the engine compartment. Did a water pump because was leaking and stained at weep hole and thermostat and housing. Best to remove electric fans for the housing. Doing the alternator because when I tested it I found two things: loud whine that stops when unplug alternator and when running and have lights, blower, turn signals and radio on, it would only try to charge but was losing voltage the whole time and would not catch up after an engine start. He complained of oil leak and I found a leak at the loose oil drain plug. Getting the tensioner for the alternator belt and doing the oil change and both belts. Most was easy enough but this old 70 year old guy was developing new cuss words for that twin pulley rear tensioner. Afetr done, I came to the conclusion that the tensioner would be easier if you unhooked the front lower motor mount and the passenger side rear dog bone mount and raise the engine. Gonna finish the alternator and tensioner tomorrow morning, not here till tomorrow from RA and Fed Ex. Oil change too and refill coolant. It's gonna pay good though at $75 an hour.

They were telling him that the alternator replacement would be $925. Just effing WOW!
you could end up needing one of those special belt tensioner tools from the sounds of it, getting the belt off may not be a issue, that comes when trying to put it back on. I fought my sisters chrylser trying to get a belt back on and not having to drive for an hour to get the tool, pfft ended up getting the tool not sure how much time I spent trying to get the belt on but it was a while....
 
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OR VietVet

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you could end up needing one of those special belt tensioner tools from the sounds of it, getting the belt off may not be a issue, that comes when trying to put it back on. I fought my sisters chrylser trying to get a belt back on and not having to drive for an hour to get the tool, pfft ended up getting the tool not sure how much time I spent trying to get the belt on but it was a while....
I have a serpentine/tensioner tool kit and there was not enough room to get the head of it in there. I used a Snap On 14mm combination wrench to move tensioner. The inner most belt is the alternator/a/c & tensioner belt and I have that routed and pulled tight around the crank and a/c compressor and have it pulled up and has tension on it with a zip tie pulled up to an a/c hose. The outer belt is the power steering belt and that goes around crank too and both pulleys of the rear tensioner and that belt is on and seated and ready to go.
 
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I like turning wrenches as a hobby but definitely won't be turning them at 70.
I like fixing my own vehicles and will have work done when it does require a lift because I have a friend that owns a shop and he gives me great deals and even lets me use the lift at times. I turn wrenches to make extra cash. I charge $75 an hour. I pick and choose what I want to work on. I shut down for longer times when me and the girl take off for parts unknown. Works for me and I am still getting around like a 40-50 year old, so I will keep on.
 
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I spent 5 solid hours on that Camry yesterday and alternator came this morning and had another 1.5 hours this morning and included alternator and tensioner install. Did the oil and filter change. Filled coolant and topped it off and made sure thermostat was working. Monitored alternator output and is now about 14.2 when idling and closer to 14.4 with headlights on, turn signals and a/c on. Electric fans working as well. With my trip to parts store yesterday for a 21mm lug nut to replace the 19mm lug nut on rf wheel, and cost of lug nut, he is bringing me $550 cash in about 10 minutes. There is no more tensioner chatter, both ended up being bad. The alternator belt tensioner was chattering when spin with hand and I showed him that this morning and the alternator whine noise is gone. Engine idles nice and quiet and has great power and is smooth. I also cleaned the negative cable clamp that the dealer did not do when they replaced the positive cable clamp for the outrageous clamp price of $48.66.

So $550 for 7 hours of my time, makes it easy for me to keep turning wrenches while I can and want to.
 
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$550 with you buying the parts or is that not including parts... oil, filter, coolant, alternator, tensioner, lug nut, etc
$550 is my labor. The only part included in that price is the $2.69 lug nut. He paid for all the parts at RA cost plus my 5% discount. I don't make money on parts.
 
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Whenever something's needing to be done to one of our vehicles I always get an estimate from the shop down the road beforehand. Then my wife asks me how much it would cost me in parts to do it and how big of a job is it.

Usually about half the cost, but then my wife asks me if the extra cost is worth a day and a half of my cursing, running to parts stores multiple times, and how sore I'd be afterwards, if it'd just be better to pay the extra money and have the shop do it, lol.

Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. Sometimes I'd rather pay the extra $200-300 and not have to worry about anything. Just drop it off and pick it up later and get other things done while it's there.

Then again, this is for our own vehicles and I'm not making any money by doing it, only saving ourselves money, lol

$550 is a good full days profit
 
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you could end up needing one of those special belt tensioner tools from the sounds of it, getting the belt off may not be a issue, that comes when trying to put it back on. I fought my sisters chrylser trying to get a belt back on and not having to drive for an hour to get the tool, pfft ended up getting the tool not sure how much time I spent trying to get the belt on but it was a while....
I looked and found a kit by Lisle that is thin enough and has lots of low profile attachments that looks like it would do most anything. I saw one that was made especially for a Mini Cooper. I can promise you, I will not need one for a Mini Cooper.
 
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So, got a fellow member of the American Legion coming tomorrow with his newly acquired 2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser, to look for an oil leak. He was told the timing cover is leaking and that is supposed to be a very big job and is also a known source of oil leaks. His name is Ron Lake and if any of you are in to knives, he is very well known in that community. He custom makes them and has many patents out there. He gave me a sweet spring loaded blade that is great for carrying in my pocket.

Also have another member dropping off his 97 GMC 1/2 ton 4x4 that has a slow cranking problem. The way he describes it, sounds like either a failing starter with too much draw or a voltage drop problem to the starter. After that one he also has an 85 Ford F150, carb model, that has a rough idle on cold start till warms up and then idles smooth and drives nice. Been a long time since I looked at a carb and choke assembly.
 

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