There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[mountie]

Today I just removed the radiator fan shroud and the throttle body for cleaning. The fan shroud was a bit of a PITA to shimmy past upper radiator hose and the cooling lines but is very doable. The throttle body is dirty, especially the back side. I did notice the throttle body plate is slightly open, without me touching it. I have never seen this before, with all the throttle bodies I have taken off. May be the filth build up or will just reset closed when plugged back in, before starting. Shall see. ANY THOUGHTS on this?

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Pray…..

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

Today I just removed the radiator fan shroud and the throttle body for cleaning. The fan shroud was a bit of a PITA to shimmy past upper radiator hose and the cooling lines but is very doable. The throttle body is dirty, especially the back side. I did notice the throttle body plate is slightly open, without me touching it. I have never seen this before, with all the throttle bodies I have taken off. May be the filth build up or will just reset closed when plugged back in, before starting. Shall see. ANY THOUGHTS on this?

I'm pretty certain my TB was "resting" a bit open when I had the problem with it a year ago. As in when it was off the truck. It was a broken wire, not the TB, so I cleaned it and it's still on the truck. 2012. It was pretty dirty. I seem to remember it closed up when reconnected. Kinda weird.

 

[OR VietVet]

Well, got the throttle body cleaned up and after installed, started and ran fine. Now on to the radiator fans. Dropped the old fans off the old shroud, because I needed the 6 torx screws to reattach the new fan motor assemblies to the new shroud. All went fine till............I found out the fan motors were not pre-tapped at the 3 ears on each motor. Takes a
5-0.8 thread. I only have a 6 for the smallest I have. So, I was planning on drilling out the holes a bit and thread a 6 size in the ears but then I needed 6 screws to match for the same length and screw head. I looked for a new set of new screws in the fan assembly boxes and found nothing. I was gonna fold up for the day and think about this. I looked at the screws and saw very small notches at the tip and realized that they were self tapping screws. I held the motors with one hand and ran the screws in with my battery powered Milwaukee Tool 1/4" drive ratchet. I had to swap the M12 battery after 4 screws and it went very smooth. Attached the 2 fan assemblies to the shroud and went fine. Wiggled the complete assembly back down in the hole and installed the 2 10mm bolts at top. The bottom of the shroud slips in to 2 cradles on the radiator tanks. Attached power and all removed clips. Started it up and let it warm up with me holding it at 2500 rpm. Thermostat opened, upper hose nice and hot. Fans came on as should and when the a/c was on, they cycled as should. The long road test went smooth and now am gonna watch football the rest of the day.

The only thing left to do up in the engine compartment is the plugs and wires. Down below there is oil change, transmission service, transfer case service, front and rear differential fluid changes and rotate tires.

 

[OR VietVet]

If anyone is interested, I am gonna sell the shroud and fan motor assemblies. I really think that he could have ran these motors because the intermittent squeak, only happened when been cycling back on after been off with the a/c on. If a/c off it never made the noise just turning on and off with engine temp.

 

[TollKeeper]

Today I just removed the radiator fan shroud and the throttle body for cleaning. The fan shroud was a bit of a PITA to shimmy past upper radiator hose and the cooling lines but is very doable. The throttle body is dirty, especially the back side. I did notice the throttle body plate is slightly open, without me touching it. I have never seen this before, with all the throttle bodies I have taken off. May be the filth build up or will just reset closed when plugged back in, before starting. Shall see. ANY THOUGHTS on this?

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Some of the GM TB's will partially open after the engine/ECM are powered down fully. This is to prevent the throttle plate from sticking in the bore from buildup or metal shrinkage/expansion.

 

[OR VietVet]

Some of the GM TB's will partially open after the engine/ECM are powered down fully. This is to prevent the throttle plate from sticking in the bore from buildup or metal shrinkage/expansion.

Yea, as soon as I plugged in the TB and turned the key to KOEO, the plate was much closer to being closed but not all the way.

 

[OR VietVet]

The work continued today. Did the wiper blades and the oil change. But first I tackled the spark plugs and wires. My 2005 Tahoe 5.3 #8 plug is not too bad getting to but the #8 on this 2018 Suburban 5.3 is a whole other PITA. Has the black plastic snap on valve cover covers. The passenger side will not come off without dealing with the rear heater hard lines, so I worked around that. Got the ignition coil plug wire taken off but could not generate enough tension to remove the spark plug boot, even after turning the boot and breaking the seal. Too much in the way to get a decent grip. Ran it up on ramps and had to reach around the frame/catalytic converter/oxygen sensor/exhaust shield to get the boot off. Then took a while to come up with the correct combination of spark plug socket, shallow/short 19mm 6 point socket to fit on the end of spark plug socket and a flex head stubby 3/8" ratchet. One to 2 clicks at a time and then when loose enough, I used a spark plug custom boot to shove on the plug and spin out. Could only see the tip of the plug. Putting the new plug in was all by feel. Then snaking the plug wire in there and connected. That one spark plug took me 50 minutes. I did the rest of them with a long spark plug socket and a long ratcheting 19mm ratchet wrench, that is a flex head ratchet wrench. The spark plugs show the wear of close to 100k miles. Especially #5 plug. You can see some of the electrode insulator broke away, close to the tip. I have reached out to him to get the brand of fuel he uses and the octane.

All that is left is the differentials fluid changes, transfer case fluid change and transmission fluid and filter change.

 

[OR VietVet]

The more I look at this #5 plug, I am amazed there was not a P0305 code. That ground electrode is ate up, too. That spark had to be shooting sideways out of the insulator.

 

[LsHart]

Next door neighbor's 2010 Camry with the 2.5 engine. He had at dealer and they sold him a battery and a positive cable end, the end for $48.66. Just a nice solid clamp with a stud to attach the wires. Said that he needed alternator because it was noisey and needed to be done sooner than later. I found that the rear tensioner is a dual pulley design and a PITA to do. Between coming at the 3 attaching bolts from the top front, the top rear reaching way down and removing rf tire and shield, thru the wheel well. Everything is done by feel and there is tight enough quarters that you cannot put a small Snap On 1/4" drive ratchet and a short 10mm socket and back all the way out without hitting the side of the engine compartment. Did a water pump because was leaking and stained at weep hole and thermostat and housing. Best to remove electric fans for the housing. Doing the alternator because when I tested it I found two things: loud whine that stops when unplug alternator and when running and have lights, blower, turn signals and radio on, it would only try to charge but was losing voltage the whole time and would not catch up after an engine start. He complained of oil leak and I found a leak at the loose oil drain plug. Getting the tensioner for the alternator belt and doing the oil change and both belts. Most was easy enough but this old 70 year old guy was developing new cuss words for that twin pulley rear tensioner. After done, I came to the conclusion that the tensioner would be easier if you unhooked the front lower motor mount and the passenger side rear dog bone mount and the top front mount and raise the engine. Gonna finish the alternator and tensioner tomorrow morning, not here till tomorrow from RA and Fed Ex. Oil change too and refill coolant. It's gonna pay good though at $75 an hour.

They were telling him that the alternator replacement would be $925. Just effing WOW!

One of those as you lay there, u second guess why u took the job. Being older, you want to cry but don't. Lol.

 

[OR VietVet]

He is my landlord and I was not gonna give up. I knew that somewhere in my 2 Snap On tool boxes, there had to be the correct combination of tools to do the job.

One of those as you lay there, u second guess why u took the job. Being older, you want to cry but don't. Lol.

 

[OR VietVet]

One of those as you lay there, u second guess why u took the job. Being older, you want to cry but don't. Lol.

At my driveway work, I never guarantee a set price or labor time, except basic oil changes, if there is not a bunch of shields to remove and replace. They Know my rate and my experience. It is a take it or leave it transaction.

 

[LsHart]

I feel u. Transmission jobs and engines with other stuff going on in my driveway. I have done my time for shops. Most of my life actually.

 

[OR VietVet]

I feel u. Transmission jobs and engines with other stuff going on in my driveway. I have done my time for shops. Most of my life actually.

I was in the shops 40+ years. I pick and choose for what I want to do. I tell them what parts I will install. I dictate the labor charges. Shops in my area will range from $150 to $200 an hours. I do not do engine or transmission swaps. I do not have a lift.

 

[Bronson357]

550in labor wow, I need your job

 

[OR VietVet]

550in labor wow, I need your job

The $150 an hour is the shop rate. The tech does not make $150 an hour. I charge a rate that ranges about $20 an hour variance. My neighbors that have been loyal to me over the last 3 years, get a lower rate than others.

 

[Tahoe14]

What a pain in the ass that was but you stuck with it and got it done with some good old ingenuity and mechanical experience. Your neighbors are lucky to have you. The Dealership hourly rates are really expensive and I don’t know how people can afford it. My Dealer is now offering loans through a loan company for service work.

 

[OR VietVet]

Landlord got back to me about the fuel he uses and the octane. Costco regular 87 octane. I am not convinced that the damage to #5 spark plug was because of regular fuel, instead of 89 octane. More research needed.

I did read the owner's manual and it states to use Top Tier 87 octane or higher. I did also find out that he "MAY" have AFM.

I have read the stories here of AFM and since I like my GMT800 Tahoe, I have not paid close attention. Since this 2018 Suburban 5.3 does not show any signs of lifter problems, at close to 100k miles, what is recommended as a simple way to disable the AFM? Thanks for any info.

 

[OR VietVet]

Reaching in from the top and bottom to gain access to #8 spark plug, was a chore, to say the least. The cat converter was hot just from pulling the Suburban up on the ramps. Left forearm and right hand suffered some wounds. Had to be done. These pics will be going to my landlord to show him what his Suburban did to me.

 

[Tonyv__]

Landlord got back to me about the fuel he uses and the octane. Costco regular 87 octane. I am not convinced that the damage to #5 spark plug was because of regular fuel, instead of 89 octane. More research needed.

I did read the owner's manual and it states to use Top Tier 87 octane or higher. I did also find out that he "MAY" have AFM.

I have read the stories here of AFM and since I like my GMT800 Tahoe, I have not paid close attention. Since this 2018 Suburban 5.3 does not show any signs of lifter problems, at close to 100k miles, what is recommended as a simple way to disable the AFM? Thanks for any info.

Range AFM disabler is plug and play or get it tuned out.

Next time you take it for a test drive, change the DIC to your fuel economy screen and you’ll see it drop to V4 once you get up to cruising speed and let off the throttle

Should look like this I think. The Yukon looks slightly different but same concept

Doing a tune up on my 2015 sometime this week. Not looking forward to doing the plugs after reading your thread. I’ve known it’s a pain but you just reminded me.

 

[homesick]

Reaching in from the top and bottom to gain access to #8 spark plug, was a chore, to say the least. The cat converter was hot just from pulling the Suburban up on the ramps. Left forearm and right hand suffered some wounds. Had to be done. These pics will be going to my landlord to show him what his Suburban did to me.

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I see some combat, or at least hazardous duty, pay.

joe