There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[OR VietVet]

When I ran shops and needed to get the story behind the vehicle problem, the first thing I always did was ask the driver that drives the vehicle the most and/or experiences the problem the most, whoever it may be, male or female, to tell me the story. I would make notes and when they were done, I then asked more qualifying questions to try and pinpoint the problem(s) and when they would happen.

I had so many people tell me that they had been to other shops and they never got to talk to anyone from the shop. My questions surprised them. That involved the customer in the diagnosis and repair of the problem(s). I basically did not let them be left out of the process.

I have my experience and qualifications and certificates out on CL and FB, in an ad for a job as a remote Automotive Service Manager/Writer/Advisor. I don't need to be at the shop to do that. Pics and computers and phones allow me to do all I need to do. I have a couple shop owners that are interested but not ready to jump yet. My pay would be minimal compared to being there and my medical is covered by VA and my hours are flexible.

 

[OR VietVet]

With my medical problems, I have to be very picky about the work I take on. Today, I did an oil change on my landlord's wife's 2022 Toyota Highlander Limited Hybrid with a 2.5 engine. Very easy work for me. Besides my normal oil, filter, air filter, clean MAF.....I checked the CAF because I replaced it at last oil change. Slight dirt but nothing imbedded and I shook it out and reinstalled. Just wanted to protect the blower motor. Has absolutely no leaks. Only has 37K miles at this time.

I also did both of the hybrid battery filters, that are mounted behind plastic screens on the sides or each rear seat. The pics show the air filters, one of the old hybrid battery filters and a shot of the air flow path under one of the seats. The hybrid battery filter mounts on the back side of the plastic frame that mounts in front of the channel in the pic. Not much harder to do than a CAF, really.

 

[OR VietVet]

My girl's 2002 TrailBlazer draw problem:

I was at my fav taco place for Taco Thursday. My girl, Linda" calls and said the TB will not start/turnover. Said she could not even turn the key off and remove the key and all of the dash was dead. Dealing with a 2002 TB LS, 4.2, bone stock as they come.

I hurried home and verified her concern. No lights on at dash or at headlights or anywhere. First thing I did was attach my battery charger to it and after 5 minutes on the "blast charge" it fired right up and was able to shut off and remove the key. I shut the charger off and then the engine turned over slow and engine would not fire off.

I then turned the charger on and did a slow charge for 1 hour. I then verified a 13.9 volt battery on my DVOM. Then did a load test and under full load for 15 seconds, the battery held 11.4 volts. Good battery. I then attached my Power Probe DRAW tester and then removed cables from battery. Key was off and out of the ignition. The systems started shutting down/going to sleep and in the end, I had a very steady 14ma draw for 15 minutes.

I have a feeling that I have an intermittent draw from the under hood light. I unplugged it for now. I will be monitoring it and report back if any further problems.

During all this, I noticed the "Change Engine Oil" light would stay on for approximately 10 seconds after engine started. Did not do this before the battery problem. I checked oil. Was full of very clean 5w-30 Valvoline R&P oil and I looked at the sticker I put up on the windshield corner. Next due time is 7-7-26 at 82K miles, whichever come first. I always write the sticker up for 4 months or 4k miles, whichever is first. I did 3 different resets on the light. KOEO and depress pedal all the way to floor, 3 times in 5 seconds and the Key Off. The light is still staying on after system checks after start engine but only for about 10 seconds.

Next, and last but not least. What is the red light, to the right of the tune knob, on the radio? It flashes about every 3 seconds when the key is off and then will flash at a much longer interval when engine is running. I looked in owner's manual but could not find a definitive answer.

By the way, this TB does not have key fobs. It is a very basic with no module for use of keys fobs and does not have the RPO code for the key fobs/module.

 

[OR VietVet]

Well, the draw problem and dead battery problem has struck again. My girl, Linda, was leaving for her senior citizens gym workout and came in and said the TB would not start again. We jumped asap and I put on charger in front of garage and took her to her workout. One I got a reasonable charge in the battery it started right up. Shut off and checked for codes. Found none...

I then attached my Power Probe DRAW unit and then unhooked the battery and watched the modules shut down over a 4 minute time frame. After that time I saw a constant 1.4 amp draw and it actually would take about 20-30 minutes and would drop to 650 ma. I started with ignition fuses and then all the big fuses and relays. Still at 650 ma. Then I went from one side of the under hood fuse box and started pulling mini fuses and when I got to fuse #13-CIGAR 20 amp, the draw went to "0" when I pulled the fuse and back to 650 ma when plugged back in. I left the fuse out and unhooked the DRAW unit and attached battery cables and started the vehicle. I plugged in the DRAW unit back in and unhooked the negative cable and saw "0" amp draw after about 4 minutes and then plugged the 20 amp fuse back in and the big draw came back.

Gonna look and see what it takes to remove the CIGAR lighter plug in and replace or repair the wiring.

Any common problems with these?

 

[OR VietVet]

I replaced both of the female power ports today. Found out about the special tool needed to reach inside the power socket and engage the 2 square spots that are 180 degrees across from each other. Theoretically, the socket is then supposed to pull free of the 2 black plastic socket holders and then unplug the wiring. The plastic was basically glued to the socket and I had to remove the dash surround to get to the back and unplug the harness and then force the two sockets out. The Kent Moore tool number is J42059 and that changes to a Dorman 56458 and the Dorman tool, steel instead of aluminum is best, comes with the d/s power socket and is $23.10 at NAPA, with my shop discount. You can get at Amazon for the same price. The p/s, main socket for power source, is a GM socket #25774623. The black plastic surrounds that clip in to the dash bezel, I have no part number for yet.

Any help on those would be great. Both of mine broke the retainer clips and I Gorilla taped them from the back side and will replace when I find them. The p/s power socket surround is thicker and sticks out from the bezel a little further and has the hinged cap on it. The d/s socket holds the cig lighter.

The really interesting this is that the socket replacements fixed my current draw problem but I have an interesting story about a possible contributor to the intermittent draw problem.

First off, before I forget, the 20 amp fuse for the CIGAR socket, is #13 on my under hood fuse box cover and there is also 2 of the 20 amp fuses, marked AUX POWER on the cover under the d/s rear seat fuse box. I found and checked those. One of the 2 rear 20 amp fuses is for the rear power/cig socket at the back of the console.

The story. During my battery and draw testing and checking powers to the sockets and and and, I had an interesting thing happen. I could turn the engine off and remove the key but one time, as I removed the key, I bumped the two plastic ears that the key slides in to and found that even with the key off, I could just reach up and turn it toward the crank position, literally just about 1/8th inch and the dash/cluster lights would turn on. No key in ignition but I could turn the lights on and off again and again and again. I had a spare new GM ignition switch and I removed the Standard Ignition switch and before a complete reassembly, I tried to duplicate the cluster lights surprise and never could. It starts and shuts off as should and no more phantom cluster lights, without a key.

Charging system is top notch and I cannot duplicate the draw problem any more.

So, any help with the plastic power socket and cig lighter sockets that are what holds the sockets in to the bezel, would be greatly appreciated.

Linda, my helper, was great with holding the lights and running after this tool and that tool. She is the best, in more ways than one.

 

[OR VietVet]

Sorry been so slow lately with posts about vehicle work. Between now and 05/28/27, I have 12 medical appointments and a hernia operation thrown in for good measure.

My wrenching days may be numbered. Depends on the severity of the hernia operation. I have all my tools up for sale here and at FB and CL and word of mouth, with the understanding that they will not be sold till after the severity of the hernia operation is decided. My pre post of the tools sale is in case money has to be gathered.

As the ads say: These tools are A-I proof and give the buyer the ability to really step it up in the home shop or keep a mechanic off the tool trucks when in the shops.

If any interest, look at the Eugene FB or CL and you will still not see all the pics needed for full display.

 

[Fless]

Sorry been so slow lately with posts about vehicle work. Between now and 05/28/27, I have 12 medical appointments and a hernia operation thrown in for good measure.

My wrenching days may be numbered. depends on the severity of the hernia operation. I have all my tools up for sale here and at FB and CL and word of mouth, with the understanding that they will not be sold to after the severity of the hernia operation is decided. My pre post of the tools sale is in case money has to be gathered.

As the ads say: These tools are A-I proof and give the buyer the ability to really step it up in the home shop or keep a mechanic off the tool trucks when in the shops.

If any interest, look at the Eugene FB or CL and you will still not see all the pics needed for full display.

If your hernia surgery is anything like the bilateral repairs I had done 5 or 6 years ago, you'll be golden. Laparoscopy FTW. I don't ever think about mine and never notice any issues. All good, and I pray that yours is the fix.

 

[OR VietVet]

So far, the hernia doctor has said it is an inguinal hernia on the right side but I actually am feeling the slight tug feeling and the sharp pain, on the left now too but not near as bad as mine felt the other day.

I did the work needed to swap out my alternator on my Tahoe. Apparently, standing on the ground, in front of grill and reaching in at arms length to lift the old alternator out and the new one in, was a strain on my core and when I sat down for 15 minutes and then stood up.......wow, the sharp pain was really unbearable and I pushed in with my fingers and rubbed/massaged the area till the pain eased and then I could walk. I sat while driving later and when I got out of the driver's seat, the pain hit me again. then about an hour later, I stood up and expected the pain and it came as I thought it would. Then then sat and watched tv for a couple hours and then stood and the pain was very faint.

Now, when I stand up, I favor my left foot and leg and push up. The pain is not there but today, when I did the oil change, getting up off the ground, I felt a slight tug and kept walking but very slowly.

Instead of waiting and hoping, I choose not to wait for an emergency room visit. I am going to schedule the operation. The doctor says the recovery should be around 2 months before I can try wrenching again. So, I may sell tools or I may not. It depends on my desire to wrench again.

I have been inundated with separate tool buyers. I tell them that if I sold something separate, it would be full retail or more. That shuts them up.

 

[homesick]

So far, the hernia doctor has said it is an inguinal hernia on the right side but I actually am feeling the slight tug feeling and the sharp pain, on the left now too but not near as bad as mine felt the other day.

I did the work needed to swap out my alternator on my Tahoe. Apparently, standing on the ground, in front of grill and reaching in at arms length to lift the old alternator out and the new one in, was a strain on my core and when I sat down for 15 minutes and then stood up.......wow, the sharp pain was really unbearable and I pushed in with my fingers and rubbed/massaged the area till the pain eased and then I could walk. I sat while driving later and when I got out of the driver's seat, the pain hit me again. then about an hour later, I stood up and expected the pain and it came as I thought it would. Then then sat and watched tv for a couple hours and then stood and the pain was very faint.

Now, when I stand up, I favor my left foot and leg and push up. The pain is not there but today, when I did the oil change, getting up off the ground, I felt a slight tug and kept walking but very slowly.

Instead of waiting and hoping, I choose not to wait for an emergency room visit. I am going to schedule the operation. The doctor says the recovery should be around 2 months before I can try wrenching again. So, I may sell tools or I may not. It depends on my desire to wrench again.

I have been inundated with separate tool buyers. I tell them that if I sold something separate, it would be full retail or more. That shuts them up.

Tell 'em that this $45,000 socket gets them a free bonus, full roll-away box.

joe

 

[OR VietVet]

Tell 'em that this $45,000 socket gets them a free bonus, full roll-away box.

joe

That would be great for me. My asking price is $35K Or Best Offer

 

[homesick]

That would be great for me. My asking price is $35K Or Best Offer

Isn't it great, when a plan comes together?

joe

 

[OR VietVet]

Was gonna relax and watch the NASCAR Truck Race at North Wilkesboro Raceway. My landlord had other ideas.

Called me and asked how to jump start his wife's 2022 Toyota Highlander Limited Hybrid. He said it started and moved this morning but had doors and rear hatch left open, like usual, and now will not start

I went down and showed him the cables attaching spots. Ground bracket on p/s front area of engine and a positive jump tab, inside the d/s relay/fuse box. Got it jumped and pulled down to my house and charging system tested good, under a loaded condition. It was the original 12 volt start battery. Battery was slow to take a charge and with age, decided not to slow charge and recheck. I got a girlfriend at the Toyota parts counter. Her dad was in the Navy during Vietnam. Great girl. She gave me a military discount on top of my Ron's Auto discount, that she set up in her system.

Because of the upcoming hernia operation, they let me use a 2 wheeler to bring old battery in and wheel the new battery out. She had one of the guys do the lifting. Got it all installed and all tested good and was ready to go. I found out that on some vehicles, you have to attach a scanner and register the new battery in to the vehicle charging system. She assured me, I did not have to do that on this Highlander. Sorry no pics

To access the 12 volt battery, you open the rear hatch, on p/s rear corner, there is a pop out trim cover. Easy to remove. 1 10 mm bolt and 1 10mm nut removed for the hold down. remove cable clamps and slide out. It is designed so that you do not have to lift it out. You take the flip handle and pull the battery sideways and there is a ramp there that you just pull the battery up that ramp and out it comes. Reinstalls the same way. On the ground side top of battery, there is a vent hose that easily pulls off and pushes back in when remove and replace the battery.

 

[OR VietVet]

Has anyone heard of JOLIFY fender covers?

 

[homesick]

Has anyone heard of JOLIFY fender covers?

From DDG.AI...

Based on customer feedback on marketplace listings, Joiify/Joiify fender covers have a generally positive reputation, with buyers most often praising thickness/soft protection, fit, and ease of use—while some complaints focus on plastic hooks durability and magnet strength/holding power (especially where magnets don’t seal well and users rely on hooks).

What customers commonly say:

• Positive themes
  • Feels thicker/spongier than previous covers and protects paint while working.
  • Easy to use (magnets + hooks) and covers effectively when sized correctly.
  • Durability seems good for many “weekend mechanic” users (one-year mention appears in reviews).
• Negative/concern themes
  • Some reviewers say the magnets aren’t enough by themselves and you “have to use the hooks.”
  • The hooks (plastic) are a potential weak point (possible breaking over time for heavy/regular use).
  • Magnet effectiveness may be limited on certain fender materials (aluminum is called out in the product description).
• Overall rating signals seen
  • One listing shows 4.7/5 with 946 reviews (for the size L product page). desertcart.in
  • Another marketplace shows a seller rating/positivity indicator of 2.6 with 42% positive for a “sold by” seller listing (this is about that seller entry, not necessarily the product quality itself). noon.com

If you share where you’re planning to buy (Amazon/Noon/eBay/etc.) and which set (Size M or L, plus your vehicle), I can interpret the reputation more precisely for that exact listing.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have seen them at Amazon. Thinking about getting the thick large set of 3. Trading the plastic hooks for the metal hooks would be easy. I have gobs of the black rubber bungee cords around with the metal hooks. Just tired of the cloth ones I have, sliding off all the time.

 

[89Suburban]

Was gonna relax and watch the NASCAR Truck Race at North Wilkesboro Raceway. My landlord had other ideas.

Hopefully you can rest and enjoy the cup race tomorrow night