Stability System Disabled/Engine Power Reduced

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NotJLB

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There's no sense me saying something to my wife like, "That's not a good idea . . . " She just had to run around with her BFFN . . . and . . . of course. It did it again.

By annoying, I mean you don't know why something happens, but you know it's going to, and you don't know when.

So, it looks like the one on the throttle body needs replacing. Here's an excellent video of that . . . I won't have everything that he has available:

 
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NotJLB

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There's no sense me saying something to my wife like, "That's not a good idea . . . " She just had to run around with her BFFN . . . and . . . of course. It did it again.

By annoying, I mean you don't know why something happens, but you know it's going to, and you don't know when.

So, it looks like the one on the throttle body needs replacing. Here's an excellent video of that . . . I won't have everything that he has available:

Here's where I'm at:

Based on that, and several other similar videos, it looks like the preferred fix is to purchase just the throttle body sensor, take the throttle body off, clean it, put the new throttle body sensor on it, and put the throttle body back on The Beast.

Problems with that: 1. When I search for the sensor, I get as many different ones, and price points, as there are sites. If I search for the throttle body with the sensor already attached, there's no confusion.

2. Some care is involved in cleaning the throttle body, protecting that white plastic intermediate gear, and getting the throttle body on and off. There is some risk of screwing it up.

3. I can order a new throttle body with the sensor already attached, in some cases for less money than some of the sensors are priced by themselves. So, if I go for cheap, I may get the wrong sensor and I still have to do more work.

What would you do? (Kinda sounds like I've already decided, huh?)
 

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Here's where I'm at:

Based on that, and several other similar videos, it looks like the preferred fix is to purchase just the throttle body sensor, take the throttle body off, clean it, put the new throttle body sensor on it, and put the throttle body back on The Beast.

Problems with that: 1. When I search for the sensor, I get as many different ones, and price points, as there are sites. If I search for the throttle body with the sensor already attached, there's no confusion.

2. Some care is involved in cleaning the throttle body, protecting that white plastic intermediate gear, and getting the throttle body on and off. There is some risk of screwing it up.

3. I can order a new throttle body with the sensor already attached, in some cases for less money than some of the sensors are priced by themselves. So, if I go for cheap, I may get the wrong sensor and I still have to do more work.

What would you do? (Kinda sounds like I've already decided, huh?)
Get the one with the throttle position sensor included. I went with a Dorman (OE fix) on my 2007 a few years ago and it's been trouble free. I generally prefer OEM parts, but in this case the Dorman part is quite good.

 
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NotJLB

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I went to the nearest NAPA store (20 miles) to pick up a throttle body with the sensor attached for $90.99. I handed the guy behind the counter the page from the Internet showing the right on for The Beast, saying, "Let's make sure this is the right one." He searched for my exact vehicle and said, "No, here's the one you need." (same search on NAPA, different result).

$233.

I said, In that case, just search for the sensor.

"Yeah, here it is, $45."

I've been watching all these videos, so I know what it looks like, and I said, "That's not it."

He said, "Then we don't have it."

The only idea I can come up with is to get the #s off the throttle body and sensor that are on the vehicle, then just find them somewhere.

The Dorman at O'Reilly is $195.99.
 
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NotJLB

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So, I am back to what started this discussion, which is that you cannot rely on parts you see online that say they are for the exact vehicle you search for to actually be for the exact vehicle you search for.
 

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So, I am back to what started this discussion, which is that you cannot rely on parts you see online that say they are for the exact vehicle you search for to actually be for the exact vehicle you search for.
just get the Hitachi, they make the oem parts for gm (throttle body's)
here it is on rockauto $147.89, but you can search the same part number from any source (ETB0019)
usually rockauto/amazon/ebay are the 3 cheapest source
rockauto: EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2303516.m570.l1313&_nkw=HITACHI+ETB0019&_sacat=0
AMAZON:https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-ETB0019-Throttle-Body/dp/B00GTHOOXM/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=12E1745F6UA4F&keywords=HITACHI+ETB0019&qid=1675439255&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=hitachi+etb0019,aps,131&sr=8-1
 

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also closely inspect the harness that connects to the throttle body, try wiggling it around with the engine running and see if wiggling the harness makes it throw a code.
"sometimes" from years of sagging and wiggling it can break a wire near the harness connector and cause your issue.
the reason it happens without warning is because after 2001/2002 GM in there great wisdom went to a all electronic throttle system (drive by wire)
they did away with the traditional throttle cable so any "electronic" signal loss in the throttle system makes it choke and cut off/misfire/loss of power instantly.
most of the time a simple stop/shut the engine off/ and restart will correct the issue at least until it occurs again.
 
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NotJLB

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just get the Hitachi, they make the oem parts for gm (throttle body's)
here it is on rockauto $147.89, but you can search the same part number from any source (ETB0019)
usually rockauto/amazon/ebay are the 3 cheapest source
rockauto: EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2303516.m570.l1313&_nkw=HITACHI+ETB0019&_sacat=0
AMAZON:https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-ETB0019-Throttle-Body/dp/B00GTHOOXM/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=12E1745F6UA4F&keywords=HITACHI+ETB0019&qid=1675439255&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=hitachi+etb0019,aps,131&sr=8-1
Thanks, but there have been so many cases of an online part for the exact vehicle not being the right one, that I don't trust any of them for this fix. One of these days I'm going to take off the throttle body, put it in the basket on my wife's bicycle, and pedal to the line of auto parts stores a mile away.

I've been DIYing auto parts online since Al Gore gave us his Internet, but the last month has tainted me.

I'm going to replace the Schrader valve cores in the AC system, and replace a DRL at the same time.

A day with The Beast.
 

Doubeleive

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Thanks, but there have been so many cases of an online part for the exact vehicle not being the right one, that I don't trust any of them for this fix. One of these days I'm going to take off the throttle body, put it in the basket on my wife's bicycle, and pedal to the line of auto parts stores a mile away.

I've been DIYing auto parts online since Al Gore gave us his Internet, but the last month has tainted me.

I'm going to replace the Schrader valve cores in the AC system, and replace a DRL at the same time.

A day with The Beast.
the one I linked is the right one.
also to expand on that a little, with throttle body's it's advisable to stick with oem rather than aftermarket or re-manufactured.
Hitachi in this case is the oem manufacture, if you "surf" the internet it is confirmed all over on a LOT of forums
 
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NotJLB

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Actually, what makes it go into Limp Home Mode is when the two throttle position sensors do not "correlate", when the throttle position each of them senses differs in excess of the allowable variance.
 

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