Stability System Disabled/Engine Power Reduced

[NotJLB]

Today was the day, but I could not get the old throttle body off. The bottom nut was way overtightened, and I goobered it up trying to loosen it.

To try to save the day, and not make my effort fruitless, I decided to replace the old throttle body sensor with the one on the brand new throttle body. But, instead of having four screws, it was fastened on the new throttle body with three screws and a rivet.

These are things you never anticipate, but it seems like it's always something.

Thankfully, the old sensor went back on and The Beast is running, at least for now.

Speaking of things you never anticipate, auto repair shops refusing to do work with customer-provided parts is one. Being nasty about it is another.

Fortunately, my go-to guy is not totally swamped, and is working me in today.

Unfortunately, my wife overheard him say that when this happened to another guy, and then to him on his GM vehicle, he replaced all three things with AC-Delco. So, there are the throttle pedal sensors on the pedal assembly and the throttle body, and then there is an actuator. When my wife heard that she questioned me as to why I was going cheap, and not doing all three.

Well, since that's the first time I heard about "all three", I could have used that reason, but, instead, I'm thinking if I just don't do anything, and let her do everything, then she would not have to waste all that energy questioning what I do.

This also means that replacing the throttle body may not solve the problem.

 

[NotJLB]

Speaking of things you never anticipate, auto repair shops refusing to do work with customer-provided parts is one. Being nasty about it is another.

Fortunately, my go-to guy is not totally swamped, and is working me in today.

Unfortunately, my wife overheard him say that when this happened to another guy, and then to him on his GM vehicle, he replaced all three things with AC-Delco. So, there are the throttle pedal sensors on the pedal assembly and the throttle body, and then there is an actuator. When my wife heard that she questioned me as to why I was going cheap, and not doing all three.

Well, since that's the first time I heard about "all three", I could have used that reason, but, instead, I'm thinking if I just don't do anything, and let her do everything, then she would not have to waste all that energy questioning what I do.

This also means that replacing the throttle body may not solve the problem.

A little of everything, to get caught up. . . .

I've been reluctant to say anything about our new throttle body because you know what happens when you do that!!!!!, but we've gone around 2500 miles with no problem, knocking on wood.

We're also back up north and I had our local shop replace the disconnected air ride with a Bilstein conversion kit. I bought it online and they had no problem putting it on. They did one for our other Escalade the same way.

Anyone know what the ESV in Escalade ESV stands for?

 

[rockola1971]

A little of everything, to get caught up. . . .

I've been reluctant to say anything about our new throttle body because you know what happens when you do that!!!!!, but we've gone around 2500 miles with no problem, knocking on wood.

We're also back up north and I had our local shop replace the disconnected air ride with a Bilstein conversion kit. I bought it online and they had no problem putting it on. They did one for our other Escalade the same way.

Anyone know what the ESV in Escalade ESV stands for?

Escalade Stretch Vehicle. Basically the same as a Tahoe vs a Suburban OR Yukon vs a Yukon XL.

Comparing the Cadillac Escalade ESV vs Escalade| %DEALER_NAME%

An in-depth comparison between the Cadillac Escalade and Escalade ESV. Contact us at %DEALER_NAME% to schedule a test drive or learn more.

www.seasidecadillac.com

 

[NotJLB]

Yes, ESV is Escalade Stretch Vehicle.

Now, what does EXT stand for?
- - - - - -
Tossing it in here, if anyone wants to replace their long-failed "air ride" suspension, I heartily endorse the Bilstein rear conversion Kit. I've done an '03 Escalade and an '04 Escalade ESV, and my mechanic had no problem switching them out.

It's nice to replace something that is more than worthless, no longer doing it's job.

The kits are $300-$350, and my mechanic charged $300 labor.

 

[Doubeleive]

extended

 

[NotJLB]

OK, ESV is Escalade Stretch Vehicle. Escalade EXT is a pickup. Are you saying it stands for "extended"?

 

[NotJLB]

EXT= Extended Crossover Truck.

 

[NotJLB]

This is probably the most dangerous thing that's ever happened to us in a vehicle, & I can't believe a car manufacturer would actually incorporate a feature like this.

Feature? Huh?

In hectic Florida traffic our new-to-us, one-owner, 100K mile, 2004 Escalade ESV went into Stability System Disabled/Engine Power Reduced mode, with the TC warning light also on. This is our second Escalade of that generation, 6.0 L, AWD, and we've never had that before.

We have been driving this platform Yukon/Escalade/Tahoe for 300,000 miles, and this is a shocking first for us.

60 MPH to 40 MPH without warning!!!!! Other drivers flipping us off, us crossing our fingers and limping, left-turning across two lanes of oncoming 60 MPH traffic. The car behind us, assuming we would be moving normal speed, almost got creamed.

We've driven this car about 1800 miles, last week 1200 miles from Missouri to Florida.

It could have been worse; we were within 5 miles of home, and made it. But, this is crazy dangerous!!!!!

I see this has been going on for more than a year, and I think it involves more than the codes suggest. Back then, when it started last Winter, I replaced the throttle pedal sensor and the throttle body with an OEM one. I had not gotten a reduced power or associated warning since.

Then, a couple weeks ago the driver's seat settings were gone, probably from an accidental bumping of those door panel buttons. When I reset them, I also moved the throttle pedal a little closer. The reduced power, stability assist, traction control crap started again. I think the easy-exit button got pushed by accident, too. I hate that.

I'm thinking there was nothing wrong with the throttle pedal sensor and/or the throttle body, that something else was causing them to not be in sync. I might have moved the throttle pedal back then, when The Beast was new-to-us, setting the driver's seat.

 

[NotJLB]

I've asked NHTSA if they have ever looked into GM's Limp Mode technology. It's a hidden danger . . . lurking.

 

[NotJLB]

What a f-ed up technology!!!!!!

I've put a new OEM throttle body on and replaced the throttle pedal sensor, but my Escalade still will not run. I check the codes and erase them, but they are still there. We are, literally, stranded.

& I'm not in the mood to f around with something that is totally stupid.

I wish I could replace non-working throttle technology like I replaced the non-working air ride with conventional suspension.

 

[Fless]

I confess that I haven't read through every post in this thread, but have the throttle body and pedal sensor movements been graphed to compare to spec, and for dropouts? A good scan tool will do that.

What hard codes are presenting?

 

[NotJLB]

I confess that I haven't read through every post in this thread, but have the throttle body and pedal sensor movements been graphed to compare to spec, and for dropouts? A good scan tool will do that.

What hard codes are presenting?

Same as a year ago:

P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch

&

P2135 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch A/B voltage Correlation

As soon as I clear them, they immediately come back. That's new.

I also notice that a year ago I mentioned that I had had moved the adjustable pedals before this started then, and I did that the other day, and this started again.

That's why I said it may not be about bad throttle sensors, but something about the adjustable pedals.

Any idea what the cable that connects to the top of the throttle pedal? It's like a speedo cable, and I had it off last year when I thought I could replace the pedal assembly, but couldn't.

 

[NotJLB]

Oh yeah, you don't have to read the whole thing. The recent posts are the same as those a year ago.

At least a year ago, it would reset itself. It won't now.

 

[NotJLB]

Just grasping at straws . . . recently, it's been reduce engine power on the first start each morning. I read and erase the codes, and it's OK after that.

Two days ago I got an oil change. The codes were there on the first start that day, then not after that. I drove 40 miles. The oil change tech said the battery read "Replace Battery". It was fine starting and coming home, and it was 12.5 volts yesterday morning. The battery is a MAXX, less than 2 years old, with a 3 year warranty.

Then, yesterday morning the codes were there, return as soon as I erase them, and I can't go anywhere. The codes return even before I start the engine.

I can normally figure these things out, especially when the thing is something I've had to figure out before.

If it wasn't for the Chiefs and 49ers going to the Super Bowl, yesterday was a really ****** day.

 

[NotJLB]

The two codes say it's the throttle sensors. The online videos show replacing the throttle pedal sensor and the throttle body sensor, or entire throttle body, which I did both of those a year ago . . . and had not gotten reduced engine power for a year.

What Does the P0220 Code Mean? Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0220 stands for “Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “B” Circuit.” This powertrain control module (PCM) sets this code when it detects voltage from the throttle/pedal position sensor/switch that doesn't fall within the normal operating range.

• DTC P2135 stands for “Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/ Switch A/B Voltage Correlation.”
• This code triggers when the PCM detects a problem with your vehicle’s throttle or pedal position sensors/switches.

 

[NotJLB]

Wow! If you read all the Reduced Engine Power discussions here, you can see what a fustercluck this technology is, and why I asked the NHTSA if they have looked into it.

It is a totally hopeless mishmash of stuff that can easily fail, and have to all be working.

 

[NotJLB]

OK.

What is the cable that attaches to the top of the accelerator pedal on an adjustable pedal model?

I had problems getting it re-attached a year ago, and I noticed it's loose now. I messed with it today, and the reduced engine power codes have gone away.

I have not been able to find what it is in my searches.

In this diagram, it is the cable coming down and attaching to the top of the accelerator pedal, upper right:

https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/BL/Bluegorilla/2012-11-12_210203_screen_shot_2012-11-12_at_2.01.26_pm.png

What's that?

 

[NotJLB]

Here it is in a pic, the cable on the top of the accelerator pedal. What's that?

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ysIAAOSwtthkryP2/s-l1600.webp

 

[NotJLB]

I got it to the award-winning NAPA repair shop, and they do not want it unless the check engine light is still on and the codes are still in it, even though I can tell them what the codes are and what I've done. & even if they were, they could not look at it for a week.

So, I can't determine what's causing it and the people who can tell what's wrong with it can't tell what's wrong with it.

 

[NotJLB]

Now it varies on start-up. Sometimes the check engine light only, sometimes the TC light is on, too. Sometimes one code, sometimes two. Sometimes they will clear, sometimes they won't.