Stability System Disabled/Engine Power Reduced

[NotJLB]

There's no sense me saying something to my wife like, "That's not a good idea . . . " She just had to run around with her BFFN . . . and . . . of course. It did it again.

By annoying, I mean you don't know why something happens, but you know it's going to, and you don't know when.

So, it looks like the one on the throttle body needs replacing. Here's an excellent video of that . . . I won't have everything that he has available:

 

[NotJLB]

There's no sense me saying something to my wife like, "That's not a good idea . . . " She just had to run around with her BFFN . . . and . . . of course. It did it again.

By annoying, I mean you don't know why something happens, but you know it's going to, and you don't know when.

So, it looks like the one on the throttle body needs replacing. Here's an excellent video of that . . . I won't have everything that he has available:

Here's where I'm at:

Based on that, and several other similar videos, it looks like the preferred fix is to purchase just the throttle body sensor, take the throttle body off, clean it, put the new throttle body sensor on it, and put the throttle body back on The Beast.

Problems with that: 1. When I search for the sensor, I get as many different ones, and price points, as there are sites. If I search for the throttle body with the sensor already attached, there's no confusion.

2. Some care is involved in cleaning the throttle body, protecting that white plastic intermediate gear, and getting the throttle body on and off. There is some risk of screwing it up.

3. I can order a new throttle body with the sensor already attached, in some cases for less money than some of the sensors are priced by themselves. So, if I go for cheap, I may get the wrong sensor and I still have to do more work.

What would you do? (Kinda sounds like I've already decided, huh?)

 

[Geotrash]

Here's where I'm at:

Based on that, and several other similar videos, it looks like the preferred fix is to purchase just the throttle body sensor, take the throttle body off, clean it, put the new throttle body sensor on it, and put the throttle body back on The Beast.

Problems with that: 1. When I search for the sensor, I get as many different ones, and price points, as there are sites. If I search for the throttle body with the sensor already attached, there's no confusion.

2. Some care is involved in cleaning the throttle body, protecting that white plastic intermediate gear, and getting the throttle body on and off. There is some risk of screwing it up.

3. I can order a new throttle body with the sensor already attached, in some cases for less money than some of the sensors are priced by themselves. So, if I go for cheap, I may get the wrong sensor and I still have to do more work.

What would you do? (Kinda sounds like I've already decided, huh?)

Get the one with the throttle position sensor included. I went with a Dorman (OE fix) on my 2007 a few years ago and it's been trouble free. I generally prefer OEM parts, but in this case the Dorman part is quite good.

More Information for DORMAN 977161

 

[NotJLB]

I went to the nearest NAPA store (20 miles) to pick up a throttle body with the sensor attached for $90.99. I handed the guy behind the counter the page from the Internet showing the right on for The Beast, saying, "Let's make sure this is the right one." He searched for my exact vehicle and said, "No, here's the one you need." (same search on NAPA, different result).

$233.

I said, In that case, just search for the sensor.

"Yeah, here it is, $45."

I've been watching all these videos, so I know what it looks like, and I said, "That's not it."

He said, "Then we don't have it."

The only idea I can come up with is to get the #s off the throttle body and sensor that are on the vehicle, then just find them somewhere.

The Dorman at O'Reilly is $195.99.

 

[NotJLB]

So, I am back to what started this discussion, which is that you cannot rely on parts you see online that say they are for the exact vehicle you search for to actually be for the exact vehicle you search for.

 

[Doubeleive]

So, I am back to what started this discussion, which is that you cannot rely on parts you see online that say they are for the exact vehicle you search for to actually be for the exact vehicle you search for.

just get the Hitachi, they make the oem parts for gm (throttle body's)
here it is on rockauto $147.89, but you can search the same part number from any source (ETB0019)
usually rockauto/amazon/ebay are the 3 cheapest source
rockauto:

More Information for HITACHI / ASTEMO ETB0019

EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2303516.m570.l1313&_nkw=HITACHI+ETB0019&_sacat=0
AMAZON:https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-ETB0019-Throttle-Body/dp/B00GTHOOXM/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=12E1745F6UA4F&keywords=HITACHI+ETB0019&qid=1675439255&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=hitachi+etb0019,aps,131&sr=8-1

 

[Doubeleive]

also closely inspect the harness that connects to the throttle body, try wiggling it around with the engine running and see if wiggling the harness makes it throw a code.
"sometimes" from years of sagging and wiggling it can break a wire near the harness connector and cause your issue.
the reason it happens without warning is because after 2001/2002 GM in there great wisdom went to a all electronic throttle system (drive by wire)
they did away with the traditional throttle cable so any "electronic" signal loss in the throttle system makes it choke and cut off/misfire/loss of power instantly.
most of the time a simple stop/shut the engine off/ and restart will correct the issue at least until it occurs again.

 

[NotJLB]

just get the Hitachi, they make the oem parts for gm (throttle body's)
here it is on rockauto $147.89, but you can search the same part number from any source (ETB0019)
usually rockauto/amazon/ebay are the 3 cheapest source
rockauto:

More Information for HITACHI / ASTEMO ETB0019

EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2303516.m570.l1313&_nkw=HITACHI+ETB0019&_sacat=0
AMAZON:https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-ETB0019-Throttle-Body/dp/B00GTHOOXM/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=12E1745F6UA4F&keywords=HITACHI+ETB0019&qid=1675439255&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=hitachi+etb0019,aps,131&sr=8-1

Thanks, but there have been so many cases of an online part for the exact vehicle not being the right one, that I don't trust any of them for this fix. One of these days I'm going to take off the throttle body, put it in the basket on my wife's bicycle, and pedal to the line of auto parts stores a mile away.

I've been DIYing auto parts online since Al Gore gave us his Internet, but the last month has tainted me.

I'm going to replace the Schrader valve cores in the AC system, and replace a DRL at the same time.

A day with The Beast.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks, but there have been so many cases of an online part for the exact vehicle not being the right one, that I don't trust any of them for this fix. One of these days I'm going to take off the throttle body, put it in the basket on my wife's bicycle, and pedal to the line of auto parts stores a mile away.

I've been DIYing auto parts online since Al Gore gave us his Internet, but the last month has tainted me.

I'm going to replace the Schrader valve cores in the AC system, and replace a DRL at the same time.

A day with The Beast.

the one I linked is the right one.
also to expand on that a little, with throttle body's it's advisable to stick with oem rather than aftermarket or re-manufactured.
Hitachi in this case is the oem manufacture, if you "surf" the internet it is confirmed all over on a LOT of forums

 

[NotJLB]

Actually, what makes it go into Limp Home Mode is when the two throttle position sensors do not "correlate", when the throttle position each of them senses differs in excess of the allowable variance.

 

[NotJLB]

the one I linked is the right one.
also to expand on that a little, with throttle body's it's advisable to stick with oem rather than aftermarket or re-manufactured.
Hitachi in this case is the oem manufacture, if you "surf" the internet it is confirmed all over on a LOT of forums

So, I'll give this a try:

HITACHI ETB0019 Info
Includes Gasket; Actual OE Part; Terminals: 8; Bore Diameter: 75.0; Gasket Or Seal Included; Electric Throttle Body; Throttle Position Sensor Included

Nothing personal, but after the last month of faulty online catalogs, I'm not really trusting them.

 

[NotJLB]

I'm finding Rockauto to be user-unfriendly. It is clumsy going to the shopping cart and then to checkout. I've got a promo code but can't find a place to enter it. I had a hard time to enter different billing and shipping addresses because it kept defaulting back to the shipping address. I'm concerned that it does not have a selection for an Escalade ESV, and for with or without adjustable pedals, which is important when it comes to the throttle sensors.

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm finding Rockauto to be user-unfriendly. It is clumsy going to the shopping cart and then to checkout. I've got a promo code but can't find a place to enter it. I had a hard time to enter different billing and shipping addresses because it kept defaulting back to the shipping address. I'm concerned that it does not have a selection for an Escalade ESV, and for with or without adjustable pedals, which is important when it comes to the throttle sensors.

you copy and paste the code into the "where did you hear about us" under the billing information on the cart/checkout screen.
that throttle body is listed for all variations of the nbs escalade. adjustable pedals make no difference except for the pedal controller.

 

[NotJLB]

To my point as to how confusing/misleading online parts shopping is, just google "OEM throttle body for 2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV with Adjustable Pedals".

I ordered the exact one you said, elsewhere, for $90.

 

[Doubeleive]

To my point as to how confusing/misleading online parts shopping is, just google "OEM throttle body for 2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV with Adjustable Pedals".

I ordered the exact one you said, elsewhere, for $90.

the problem you created there in that search is you are inadvertently combing 2 different things, that although they are related they are 2 different things.
yes a pedal sensor assembly for adjustable pedal is different than non adjustable, but the actual module should be the same but the module may not be offered separate. In either case the throttle body is the same.
the real secret is you could in most cases go grab one off of any 03-06 gmt 800-1500 suv, avalanche or pickup and throw it on there and it would work just fine, but the parts places will swear on the mothers grave it won't work because they don't know the difference
go try to search for a iac for a 00, you will probably find 1000 different ones, but only 1 works

 

[NotJLB]

yes a pedal sensor assembly for adjustable pedal is different than non adjustable, but the actual module should be the same but the module may not be offered separate. In either case the throttle body is the same.

I'm not sure exactly what you're saying there, but to make it clear for anyone coming here in the future, if you want to replace the sensor on the throttle pedal, there is a different one for fixed pedals and adjustable pedals. You can buy just the sensor. The fixed pedal assembly is fairly easy to work with if you are replacing the entire pedal assembly. The adjustable one is not, but you will have a hard time finding a pedal assembly.

In either case, it's easier to replace just the sensor.

When we got our first codes, I did the pedal sensor. It went to limp mode again, but only with the "A/B Correlation" code, P2135 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch A/B voltage Correlation.

When you search the code, you find that it is for the throttle body. The best video I found was a mechanic who said, "When you get that code, it is always the throttle body sensor," and then he shows how to remove the throttle body, clean it, and replace the sensor on it. Another video did exactly the same thing.

For $90, for an entire new throttle body, I'm doing the whole thing. Easy off and easy on, hopefully.

More to the point, we should not be having this conversation at all; this inappropriate use of technology is extremely dangerous and unnecessary. If a Corvair was unsafe at any speed, how about vehicles that shut down without warning in the middle of rush hour or bumper-to-bumper Interstate traffic?
- - - - - -
But, then again, when you have to remove the grill in order to remove a headlight in order to replace a DRL, what do you expect? That's why you see so many GM products with just one, or neither, DRL lit.

 

[NotJLB]

To my point as to how confusing/misleading online parts shopping is, just google "OEM throttle body for 2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV with Adjustable Pedals".

I ordered the exact one you said, elsewhere, for $90.

Today was the day, but I could not get the old throttle body off. The bottom nut was way overtightened, and I goobered it up trying to loosen it.

To try to save the day, and not make my effort fruitless, I decided to replace the old throttle body sensor with the one on the brand new throttle body. But, instead of having four screws, it was fastened on the new throttle body with three screws and a rivet.

These are things you never anticipate, but it seems like it's always something.

Thankfully, the old sensor went back on and The Beast is running, at least for now.

 

[MassHoe04]

Today was the day, but I could not get the old throttle body off. The bottom nut was way overtightened, and I goobered it up trying to loosen it.

To try to save the day, and not make my effort fruitless, I decided to replace the old throttle body sensor with the one on the brand new throttle body. But, instead of having four screws, it was fastened on the new throttle body with three screws and a rivet.

These are things you never anticipate, but it seems like it's always something.

Thankfully, the old sensor went back on and The Beast is running, at least for now.

A win!!! Awesome!

Tips for others on future projects with difficult bolts...

Socket selection is critical!
You may have the right size socket indicated on the side of the socket, but not all sockets were created with the same level of quality and precision. On stubborn bolts where you have one shot, make sure the socket you put on there has absolutely no wiggle room. If you feel the slightest movement when it is on the bolt head, find another socket that fits nice and snug. That slop will round you over in no time with too much force applied.

16 point sockets/box wrenches seem to grip better. Buy some, if you don't have them yet.

Heat and soaking with penetrant in advance can help. Can't always do that in areas where there is plastic, electronics, fuel systems or just too crammed. But in rusty areas on the chassis, heat from a small torch can do wonders.

Kenny Rogers...
Know when to walk away and know when to run.
If you are not feeling the socket has a solid grip on the bolt or nut, is being too difficult or you start to feel too anxious or frustrated... Put the wrench down and walk away for a bit.
Sometimes, taking that break can clear your head and calm your nerves, so you can focus on making sure you have a solid socket grip before giving it another turn. Rushing and frustration can really make a mess of a project. That is when things start to break or get damaged in our attempt to fix things.

You probably already know all this, but I thought some future newbies could use the information to maintain their sanity and not break stuff.

Glad you got squared away!

 

[NotJLB]

If you read Post #37, it was no Win! Nothing got accomplished. I just put it back together, and kept the new throttle body (with permanently-attached sensor) back in the box.

 

[NotJLB]

We had hoped this was behind us because it had not happened again . . . until today when we took a houseguest to the airport in Sarasota. It happened and went into limp home mode just as we were arriving at the airport, then several times again as we headed the 45 miles back home. Needless to say, crazy Florida Tamiami Trail traffic every time. I just stayed in the "curb lane", and pulled off at the first turn every time it happened, stopped, shut the engine off for 5-10 minutes, then went again.

This is the most absurd "feature" GM has ever come up with. Our houseguest was like, "So the car just stops running?"

Pretty much.

I would be all in favor of running the throttle by wire again. In 60-some years, I've never had a throttle fail because the wire broke. Same on our several boats.