thingraylinetah
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I reckon that the motor came with the the oil pan and timing cover, rear main seal, and front main seal. So ill have to order the valley cover gasket, and intake gasket.
Thin gray line tahoe build
- Thread starter thingraylinetah
- Start date
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thingraylinetah
Full Access Member
Oh and the wiring harness for the knock sensors!
thingraylinetah
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The timing cover gaskets to
thingraylinetah
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
That's the same setup I went with, I also installed a 3000 stall from Circle D.
This is from my 2nd cam replacement. The 1st one got destroyed by a cam bearing.
thingraylinetah
Full Access Member
Yes yeah I'm not sure what hone and powerstroke the block means on the paperwork. I don't know what the bronze trunnions are either
thingraylinetah
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How does a cam bearing let lose?
thingraylinetah
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What kind of horsepower do you think this motor I've bought will make?
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I have the BTR stage 2 combo in my avalanche. Same springs as well. I also have the trunnion upgrade but I think mine are the needle bearing type. The replace the stock bearing/bushing on your stock rocker arms.
You will need a stall as well. I did Circle D 26-2800 and it feels pretty good. A little looser than I really wanted but its fine.
Cam bearings go from various things. Losing oil pressure...
No clue on the horsepower. My truck is definitely faster than it was but I have done zero to the fueling/air/spark in the tune. I got it idling and everything else in line to drive it without any check engine lights so I'm going to start on the other stuff soon. Its no race car by any means. My 6.2 Denali is ALOT faster, seat of the pants feel anyway. I also have ported heads and I built the trans with all the upgrades.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
It goes pretty good. This was with 22's on it.
thingraylinetah
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Yeah I'm not paying 600 for a torque converter
pwtr02ss
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With a cam that size, I think you will need (require) more than stock. I'm right on the line of needing/not needing one. There are cheaper options than circle d but they seem to be the go to for these trucks.
thingraylinetah
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Well hell
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
That cam isn't "huge" per say, but it should have a decent amount of chop. I tuned the majority of that sound out of mine and I also kept the manifolds and cats, through completely stock exhaust (btr stage 2 cam). I'd go with a quality converter, well I mean, I did. If you want something budget friendly, you could try an eBay one or even a v6 trailblazer converter to help get you a little more stall speed. I'm not sure if that would be enough or not though. Pulling the trans to swap it out if you're unhappy is nearly the cost of the converter to start with. Weigh the options
thingraylinetah
Full Access Member
I just need a vehicle to drive asap. I'm driving my wife's car right now.
thingraylinetah
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My advisors are telling me that the 4l60e can withstand up to 1k horsepower with out any mods. They are telling me I don't need the torque converter upgrade.
thingraylinetah
Full Access Member
Yeah,
I thought it was funny also
I thought it was funny also
thingraylinetah
Full Access Member
Most of the gaskets, are being delivered today.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I was hoping I was reading the sarcasm correctly!
The 4l60 is not as weak as some make it out to be, but it does have its limits. I put all the typical upgrades in mine for the avalanche but did not do the input/output shafts nor 5 pinion planets. Alot of people upgrade to a 5 pinion but I've found that its not really necessary. This is like a ford vs Chevrolet kind of argument in the transmission world. Some swear by them, others don't. The biggest argument for or against the the amount of material you're losing to add the additional planetary vs the amount of coverage the planetary has with the addition of the 5th one. Everyone can make the decision for themselves.
The major places to upgrade is definitely the sunshell, wide band, servo, and accumulator pistons (I prefer pinless setups), and Kolene steels for the 3/4 stack (especially in the heavy full-size SUV and trucks). You can also do things to the valve body and separator plate to help with oiling but those are a case by case deal. I don't think you're building the trans at this time but when the time comes, keep these parts in mind.
You probably will get away without the stall but your drivability will suffer. If you've never been in a car with too tight a converter, you'll see what I mean when you start trying to drive it. I've given my 2 pennies. Thats all I can do.
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