2013 Escalade ESV Next BIG adventure: Cooling system refresh, Big 3 Electrical upgrade, Reseal intake, and VLOM mod...

[skpyle]

Luckily for me, the removal tool did not slip off and the pulley started moving off the crankshaft snout with me just using a long handled 1/2" drive ratchet. It did take many, many cranks on the ratchet to get the pulley completely off.

Old pulley at left, new pulley at right. Note the flats cast into the backside of the hub. This is where the notches on the removal tool arms sit.


Pulley out of the way, I replaced the front main seal. Old seal looked good. Too bad. I always replace a seal for a rotating component whenever I remove said component. Old one popped right out with two tugs on a seal puller. I coated the lips of the new seal with assembly lube and tapped it in flush and even with the timing cover surface.

Old front main seal in place in the timing cover.

Old seal at left, new GM seal 12585673 at right.

New seal installed flush with timing cover, lips coated in assembly lube.

 

[skpyle]

Old OEM crankshaft pulley at left, new OEM GM 19300488 pulley at right.

Backsides of the pulleys, old at left, new at right.



The new crankshaft pulley went on smoothly. I was able to start it on the crankshaft snout by hand just enough for it to stay in place. Though I was pretty sure it was going to fall and cave in my skull. I quickly assembled the installation tool (eerie foreshadowing music...) and threaded the shaft into the crankshaft. The tool smoothly pushed the pulley onto the crankshaft snout with my long handled 1/2" drive ratchet. Again, it took many, many cranks of the ratchet to seat the balancer. Too many, in fact...

New crankshaft pulley started on the crankshaft snout, installer tool in position.



I made two mistakes using the pulley installer tool:
1) I did not feel the pulley seat on the crankshaft shoulder, and kept turning the ratchet. This drove the thrust bearing into the washer and bowled it. Dummy. I will get a thicker washer and pay closer attention in the future.
2) In my haste to assemble the installer tool, I assembled the thrust bearing with one of its races backwards. Meaning the thrust balls were running against the smooth backside instead of the grooved frontside. Tool worked just fine. It just ruined the thrust bearing. The smooth backside of the race is now badly grooved and damaged. As well as being distorted. And the thrust balls are now suspect. Surprisingly, the installer tool I bought came with not one but TWO thrust bearing assemblies. Almost as if they knew I was an idiot...

Results of me being stupid. Washer is now bowled. Thrust bearing race backside at left is undamaged. Thrust bearing race backside at right is grooved and damaged from being installed backwards.

 

[skpyle]

I chose to use a new torque to yield bolt to retain the new crankshaft pulley. I looked at the ARP bolt, and decided I would be OK with the OEM bolt.

Old bolt at left, new GM 12557840 torque to yield bolt at right.



I followed the service manual procedure to install the crankshaft pulley:

-install and tighten the OLD bolt to 240 ft/lbs
-removed OLD bolt
-verified crankshaft snout was between 2.4mm - 4.48mm (mine was 4.02mm) recessed below the surface of the pulley hub
-install and tighten the NEW bolt to 110 ft/lbs
-loosen the NEW bolt 360 degrees
-tighten the NEW bolt to 59 ft/lbs
-tighten the NEW bolt an additional 125 degrees

Getting all 125 degrees was a bear. I ended up laying on my back, bracing my right hand on the frame, and pulling with my left arm for all I was worth. It took a few pulls to get all 125 degrees, but I got them. Torque ended up being 403.5 Nm (297.6 ft/lbs)

With that, I had completed the tasks for the day. Disregard the fact it took me ALL day... I packed up and went inside at this point.

New crankshaft pulley, new bolt, and new front main seal.

 

[mikez71]

View attachment 416423
Receptacles in the base of the distribution box.

Is that debris on the large gray connector?

 

[skpyle]

Is that debris on the large gray connector?

Yep. That was a little plastic tab from somewhere. I blew it off before reinstalling the top panel to the distribution box.

 

[j91z28d1]

good job getting the bolt fully tighten. I think most people give up, think it's tight enough and be good. I have only done it once, not on truck thou. I said if I ever had to do it again, I'd think about selling the car first haha.

I tried for a bit on those rear fittings and figured I'd try later with some different tools. most of my stuff is at work.

these are the elbows I ordered from a part number off this board. I haven't used them yet thou. was thinking I'd just cut the hose off the pipe end and use a normal clamp. I have replaced all the coolent and heater hoses at this point except these rear ones. of course being a hybrid nothing was the same size as expected haha.

I don't know forsure they'd work, but they were cheap so I picked up these pliers hoping they would be useful.

 

[skpyle]

good job getting the bolt fully tighten. I think most people give up, think it's tight enough and be good. I have only done it once, not on truck thou. I said if I ever had to do it again, I'd think about selling the car first haha.

I tried for a bit on those rear fittings and figured I'd try later with some different tools. most of my stuff is at work.

these are the elbows I ordered from a part number off this board. I haven't used them yet thou. was thinking I'd just cut the hose off the pipe end and use a normal clamp. I have replaced all the coolent and heater hoses at this point except these rear ones. of course being a hybrid nothing was the same size as expected haha. View attachment 416743

I don't know forsure they'd work, but they were cheap so I picked up these pliers hoping they would be useful.
View attachment 416744

Thanks! I learned years ago that there is no such thing as 'good enough' for heavy torque specs. Angle torquing is no different.

Hmmm...I had seen those elbows before, but didn't think about using them. Good to know if I screw up and break one, I can replace it with that.

I have those exact pliers! Never occurred to me to use them on this job. I will try them when I get back to my Escalade.

Thanks!

 

[JPS0284]

I chose to use a new torque to yield bolt to retain the new crankshaft pulley. I looked at the ARP bolt, and decided I would be OK with the OEM bolt.


View attachment 416731
Old bolt at left, new GM 12557840 torque to yield bolt at right.



I followed the service manual procedure to install the crankshaft pulley:

-install and tighten the OLD bolt to 240 ft/lbs
-removed OLD bolt
-verified crankshaft snout was between 2.4mm - 4.48mm (mine was 4.02mm)
-install and tighten the NEW bolt to 110 ft/lbs
-loosen the NEW bolt 360 degrees
-tighten the NEW bolt to 59 ft/lbs
-tighten the NEW bolt an additional 125 degrees

Getting all 125 degrees was a bear. I ended up laying on my back, bracing my right hand on the frame, and pulling with my left arm for all I was worth. It took a few pulls to get all 125 degrees, but I got them. Torque ended up being 403.5 Nm (297.6 ft/lbs)


View attachment 416732


View attachment 416733



With that, I had completed the tasks for the day. Disregard the fact it took me ALL day... I packed up and went inside at this point.



View attachment 416734
New crankshaft pulley, new bolt, and new front main seal.

The only thing I can see wrong with this picture is that it’s missing the 8 Rib for the LSA SC gj

 

[JPS0284]

OK, I am getting cold feet.
I have read through various procedures in the service manual, and this is becoming a steeper and steeper slippery slope.

To replace the VVT actuator (camshaft sprocket):
-lower front differential
-remove oil pan
-remove timing cover
-remove oil pump
-remove timing chain tensioner
-remove VVT actuator and timing chain

And this is on the edge of the cliff of:
Since you was in there...
AMF Delete
-'Just Pop the heads off to replace the lifters.'
-pull the radiator
-pull the AC condenser
-pull the auxiliary transmission cooler
-replace camshaft


To be honest, that is WAY more money and time than I want to do right now.
The scope of what I am doing now was some preventive maintenance. My intent was only to have my Escalade down for a couple-three weeks.
All the above will add considerably more time to this.

I replaced my cam phaser when doing my afm delete cam upgrade (not by choice) and it’s not for the faint hearted. The cam pin hole on the back of the phaser is a completely blind fit. It’s easy during the test fit while lining up the timing markers but once you get the chain on you nearly loose all feeling for the pin. It’s pretty nerve wracking to say the least and I had a buddy helping. Also you don’t need to pull the condenser for a cam swap, just the fans and radiator need to be pulled to get the cam in.

 

[Monz11]

I replaced the little O-rings for the front steam bleed crossover tube. And the slit rubber hose that covers the metal line. I do not understand what that is for. I ordered that hose, as it was listed as 'bleed crossover hose' so I thought I needed it. The new one came in the GM bag slit down the middle. I thought it was defective. And ordered another. And realized I am defective.


View attachment 416073



Something I did note. The Fel-Pro gasket set came with two sets of seals, and the service manual talks about the rear bleed port block off plates. Since I had the intake manifold off, I believed this was the perfect time to replace the seals under the block off plates. Except my 2013 L94 does not have the rear bleed ports. The head castings have dimples for the bleed ports and bolt holes, but no drilled passages. So I did nothing.


View attachment 416074
Right cylinder head rear bleed port not drilled. (Sorry for the lousy photo.)


View attachment 416075
Left cylinder head rear bleed port not drilled. (Sorry for the lousy photo.)


Two things I forgot to mention:

I used the OEM rubber lined metal gaskets for the water pump mounting. I had read that aftermarket gaskets tended to not seal as well. Didn't want to find out the hard way.

I went with the OEM plastic heater Tees because they lasted 150,000+ miles. Yes, it is a flawed design that can fail. However, if kept up with, they are OK. So I am good with that.


View attachment 416077
Original OEM water pump gaskets at top, new OEM water pump gaskets at bottom.


View attachment 416078
New OEM heater Tees at top, old OEM heater Tees at bottom.

Seth, just as a backup look into gruven parts heater tees and outlets. Those plastic ones suck and are prone to breaking. These may help fo rear as well

 

[donjetman]

Seth, just as a backup look into gruven parts heater tees and outlets. Those plastic ones suck and are prone to breaking. These may help fo rear as well

I installed the GruvenParts https://www.gruvenparts.com/shop-by-car/gm-truck aluminum billet Ts for the front heater 4 yrs ago after a plastic T broke. No regrets ot issues since.

 

[89Suburban]

Since I am still waiting on the fuel injectors to return and parts to arrive for the crank pulley, I moved on to the electrical upgrades.

My plan was this:
-220A alternator
-1/0ga (-) battery cable with new terminal
-new RVC sensor
-1/0ga (+) battery cable with new terminal to the mega fuse block on the firewall
-1/0ga (+) battery cable to the alternator (+) power stud
-1/0ga ground cable between the engine and the frame
-onboard battery maintainer
-bluetooth battery monitor


Yeah...that kinda went sideways right off the bat. My 2013 Escalade does not have the mega fuse block on the firewall. It has it directly attached to the (+) battery cable terminal at the battery. If nothing else, means I didn't have to install a new terminal on the cable to the starter.
It did mean I would have to run a 1/0ga (+) battery cable from the battery to the power distribution box on the driver's side fender.


View attachment 416401
Battery cable configuration on my Escalade.


View attachment 416402
Mega fuse block connected directly to the (+) battery cable terminal.



For the sake of (what I thought would be) simplicity, I started with the (-) cables.
I used the old (-) cable as a guide, cut the new one a couple of inches longer, just because. I crimped 3/8" hole ring terminals at each end and covered them with heat shrink tubing.
The original (-) cable had an additional smaller diameter ground wire going down to the lower front frame. I clipped this off, then put a 3/8" hole ring terminal on it. Both these went to the new (-) terminal on the battery.

As for the new (-) terminal, I put a longer bolt through it, and a nut on the end to secure it. And act as a spacer. This spaced the (-) cables out far enough to clear the battery case. And I could leave the battery in its original orientation, with the terminals towards the fender.


View attachment 416410
Original (-) battery cable with RVC sensor.


View attachment 416411
Cylinder head end of new and old (-) battery cables.


View attachment 416412
Battery terminal end of old and new (-) battery cables. Yes, new terminal is a touch janky, but it is solid and will work. I have done worse...

This is a great detailed thread an your posts are so entertaining!

Where did you get that red battery post protector? I am in need of one.

 

[B-train]

Friday, before I laid down for a nap, I tried replacing the locks, O-rings, and spacers for the rear heater core hose quick disconnects.
And failed miserably.


View attachment 416708
Rear heater core hose quick disconnects under the passenger's side rear of the vehicle.


View attachment 416709


View attachment 416710
Could not depress the locking tabs enough for the quick disconnects to release. Did not want to get medieval and break anything.



As far as I can tell, the quick disconnects are the same as the heater hoses that connect to the heater Tees under the hood. However, I could not get the locking tabs to release for love nor money. I tried my fingers, hose pliers, and Knipex pliers. No love. I gave up before I broke something.
I will revisit this in the near future.
In my mind, the O-ring seals and locks are 10 years old. Couldn't hurt to replace them.



View attachment 416711
GM seal and lock kit for rear heater core hose quick disconnects.


View attachment 416712
Spacer goes between the two O-rings. The lock inserts snap into the heater hose quick disconnect housings.

You might be fighting road debris that has settled into the connector. You could try compressed air while pushing it tight towards the core and then wiggle gently. I've fought some of those over the years and just a minute amount of particulate can be a PITA. You could also try spray silicone from the top down and see if that helps loosen stuff up after blowing it out.

Also, I want to say that this has been an EXCELLENT thread to follow. I enjoy your thoroughness and sense of humor. I applaud your efforts and attention to detail.....no matter how many parts it takes. Thank you for this contribution!!!

 

[skpyle]

The only thing I can see wrong with this picture is that it’s missing the 8 Rib for the LSA SC gj

Yeah...not yet. I'm not saying never, just not yet.

I replaced my cam phaser when doing my afm delete cam upgrade (not by choice) and it’s not for the faint hearted. The cam pin hole on the back of the phaser is a completely blind fit. It’s easy during the test fit while lining up the timing markers but once you get the chain on you nearly loose all feeling for the pin. It’s pretty nerve wracking to say the least and I had a buddy helping. Also you don’t need to pull the condenser for a cam swap, just the fans and radiator need to be pulled to get the cam in.

Thank you for that insight, I very much appreciate it! VERY good to know that the condenser does not need to come out for a cam swap. Full DOD delete may very well be in my future...

Seth, just as a backup look into gruven parts heater tees and outlets. Those plastic ones suck and are prone to breaking. These may help fo rear as well

Thank you for the heads-up on those, I had forgotten about them.

I installed the GruvenParts https://www.gruvenparts.com/shop-by-car/gm-truck aluminum billet Ts for the front heater 4 yrs ago after a plastic T broke. No regrets ot issues since.

Very good to know, thanks!

This is a great detailed thread an your posts are so entertaining!

Where did you get that red battery post protector? I am in need of one.

You are very welcome! I don't want someone to read my posts and be bored and/or think they are a waste of time. I want my posts to be helpful. If my trials, tribulations, and flat-out mistakes help someone else in the future, then it is worth it.

You might be fighting road debris that has settled into the connector. You could try compressed air while pushing it tight towards the core and then wiggle gently. I've fought some of those over the years and just a minute amount of particulate can be a PITA. You could also try spray silicone from the top down and see if that helps loosen stuff up after blowing it out.

Also, I want to say that this has been an EXCELLENT thread to follow. I enjoy your thoroughness and sense of humor. I applaud your efforts and attention to detail.....no matter how many parts it takes. Thank you for this contribution!!!

Thanks for the tip. I will drag an air tank and aerosol silicone spray out next time I do battle with the rear heater hoses.

I am glad you are enjoying this thread. This kind of thing is my hobby, and I take it way to seriously.

 

[skpyle]

I continued making progress over the past couple of days. Sort of...

I wrapped up underneath the Escalade by installing the new stretch belt for the AC compressor. New belt went on OK, though of course I got it misaligned one spline on the AC compressor. Had to rotate the crank back and forth a bit to walk the belt back on properly. Like last time, I used the 'secure the belt to the crankshaft pulley with a large zip-tie' trick to install the stretch belt. Worked much better than the installation tool I bought.

New Gates AC compressor stretch belt. I went with Gates vs ACDelco this time. Last time, the ACDelco kit was full of Gates parts...

New stretch belt installed. As mentioned, I had to rotate the crank pulley back and forth a bit to walk the belt back into alignment. I was going to rotate the crank a full revolution to seat the belt. Just because. However....I noticed a couple of funny sounds. Guess who forgot there were rags stuffed in the intake ports and the ports covered in tape...
I looked later and noted none of the tape was blown in on any ports. I will be gentle when I remove the rags to ensure none are caught and tear later.



Then, again I tried to remove the rear heater core hose elbow quick disconnects. And again failed. I tried different tools this time. I sprayed aerosol silicone into the top of each quick disconnect. I squeezed until my finger and thumb hurt. To no avail. Tuesday night/Wednesday morning was very bad at work, so I forgot to bring home my long 90 degree needle nosed pliers. In desperation, I tried a couple of fuel/AC line disconnect tools to get a stronger grip on the release tabs. And failed.
I did attempt to protect myself from drowning in coolant. Service manual calls for draining the cooling system. Well...I had just refilled it. And, the rear heater core hose connections are high up on the firewall at the heater Tees. Meaning the entire cooling system should not drain back out there. On the same token, draining the cooling system will not drain the rear heater core and lines. So, I am gambling that the only coolant that will drain from the connections is what is in the rear heater core and the lines.

Regardless, I am working directly UNDER the rear heater core quick disconnects. Each time I fight with the connectors, it is in the back of my mind that I am going to get deluged. I have a clean coolant drain pan nearby. But it is nearby, and will take several seconds to grab and position.
Sooooo...I pretty much crawled into a large garden trash bag. That worked out about as well as expected...

Tools and materials from failed attempt #2 to remove the rear heater core hose quick disconnects.



Once again giving up on the rear heater core connections, I moved back to the engine compartment.
I replaced most of the rest of the relays in the underhood distribution box. I say most, because math is hard and I obviously can't count correctly. I need to order two more relays to be done.
Something I noticed. The label on the underside of the distribution box cover shows a 'FUEL PUMP' relay. Yet, on the distribution box panel, there was no relay. As far as I can tell, this is because the GMT900 platform has a fuel pump control module. I think...

Correct FAN HI and FAN LO 4-pin relays, as well as two other types of relays for the distribution box. Just not quite enough. The FOG LAMPS and PK LAMPS relays will get changed later. They are not as important as AC COMP and STARTER.

Label calls for the FUEL PUMP relay to be in the blue circle, but there was no relay.

 

[skpyle]

I cannot install it yet, but I wanted to mock up the new alternator to see if there were any hiccups I had to watch out for. The stock DR44 alternator worked just fine. However, it had 153,*** miles on it, and voltage dipped a bit when the fans kicked on. I purchased a new GM 84143539 220A alternator. It is listed for 2015-2020 GM 2500/3500 series trucks and vans.

Comparing it to the stock alternator, the two mounting bolt holes are in the same place. The pulleys are the same diameter and in the same centerline position from the mounting holes. Meaning stock serpentine belt will fit just fine.
The B+ stud is larger than stock, and clocked differently. Stock is a 6mm stud out the back of the case, at around 2:00 o'clock. New alternator is an 8mm stud out the top of the case, at around 11:00 o'clock. This won't be an issue since I am making a 1/0ga cable from the battery to the alternator.
The electrical receptacle is clocked different as well: 11:00 o'clock stock and 1:00 o'clock new. I don't think this will be an issue as the positions are close and there is a little slack in the plug wiring. We shall see.

New GM 81443539 220A alternator.

Mounting holes in the alternator cases are in the same positions. (ignore the belt dust on the old alternator. I never could keep that from happening. New belt, new tensioner, etc...)

B+ studs and electrical receptacles are clocked differently on the two. Shouldn't be an issue.

Luckily, I found a flanged M8 nut in my hardware drawers. 1/0ga cable lug with 5/16" hole fits perfectly.

Pulleys are same diameter and in the same relative position.

 

[89Suburban]

I continued making progress over the past couple of days. Sort of...

I wrapped up underneath the Escalade by installing the new stretch belt for the AC compressor. New belt went on OK, though of course I got it misaligned one spline on the AC compressor. Had to rotate the crank back and forth a bit to walk the belt back on properly. Like last time, I used the 'secure the belt to the crankshaft pulley with a large zip-tie' trick to install the stretch belt. Worked much better than the installation tool I bought.


View attachment 417046
New Gates AC compressor stretch belt. I went with Gates vs ACDelco this time. Last time, the ACDelco kit was full of Gates parts...


View attachment 417047
New stretch belt installed. As mentioned, I had to rotate the crank pulley back and forth a bit to walk the belt back into alignment. I was going to rotate the crank a full revolution to seat the belt. Just because. However....I noticed a couple of funny sounds. Guess who forgot there were rags stuffed in the intake ports and the ports covered in tape...
I looked later and noted none of the tape was blown in on any ports. I will be gentle when I remove the rags to ensure none are caught and tear later.



Then, again I tried to remove the rear heater core hose elbow quick disconnects. And again failed. I tried different tools this time. I sprayed aerosol silicone into the top of each quick disconnect. I squeezed until my finger and thumb hurt. To no avail. Tuesday night/Wednesday morning was very bad at work, so I forgot to bring home my long 90 degree needle nosed pliers. In desperation, I tried a couple of fuel/AC line disconnect tools to get a stronger grip on the release tabs. And failed.
I did attempt to protect myself from drowning in coolant. Service manual calls for draining the cooling system. Well...I had just refilled it. And, the rear heater core hose connections are high up on the firewall at the heater Tees. Meaning the entire cooling system should not drain back out there. On the same token, draining the cooling system will not drain the rear heater core and lines. So, I am gambling that the only coolant that will drain from the connections is what is in the rear heater core and the lines.

Regardless, I am working directly UNDER the rear heater core quick disconnects. Each time I fight with the connectors, it is in the back of my mind that I am going to get deluged. I have a clean coolant drain pan nearby. But it is nearby, and will take several seconds to grab and position.
Sooooo...I pretty much crawled into a large garden trash bag. That worked out about as well as expected...


View attachment 417048
Tools and materials from failed attempt #2 to remove the rear heater core hose quick disconnects.



Once again giving up on the rear heater core connections, I moved back to the engine compartment.
I replaced most of the rest of the relays in the underhood distribution box. I say most, because math is hard and I obviously can't count correctly. I need to order two more relays to be done.
Something I noticed. The label on the underside of the distribution box cover shows a 'FUEL PUMP' relay. Yet, on the distribution box panel, there was no relay. As far as I can tell, this is because the GMT900 platform has a fuel pump control module. I think...


View attachment 417049
Correct FAN HI and FAN LO 4-pin relays, as well as two other types of relays for the distribution box. Just not quite enough. The FOG LAMPS and PK LAMPS relays will get changed later. They are not as important as AC COMP and STARTER.


View attachment 417050
Label calls for the FUEL PUMP relay to be in the blue circle, but there was no relay.

Hey amigo, get one of these. Use the long skinny hose to stick down one of the rear feed pipes and suck that coolant out completely. I use this thing constantly for many repairs. When I replaced my radiator I used this to remove the coolant top to bottom as things were being disassembled. Did not need a drain pan at all. VERY handy tool.

https://www.amazon.com/FOUR-UNCLES-Extractor-Pneumatic-Convenient/dp/B0836GH3G7/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1EDILOP99MZAK&keywords=fluid%2Bextractor&qid=1703254711&s=automotive&sprefix=fluid%2Bectractor%2Cautomotive%2C69&sr=1-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

[skpyle]

Hey amigo, get one of these. Use the long skinny hose to stick down one of the rear feed pipes and suck that coolant out completely. I use this thing constantly for many repairs. When I replaced my radiator I used this to remove the coolant top to bottom as things were being disassembled. Did not need a drain pan at all. VERY handy tool.

https://www.amazon.com/FOUR-UNCLES-Extractor-Pneumatic-Convenient/dp/B0836GH3G7/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1EDILOP99MZAK&keywords=fluid%2Bextractor&qid=1703254711&s=automotive&sprefix=fluid%2Bectractor%2Cautomotive%2C69&sr=1-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Sweet!
I bought this years ago:

https://www.northerntool.com/produc...e1SOG0wJel7tnYB1SPYt1294rg_XDpK7qmYa0m19OBekg

I think it will serve the same purpose.

Thanks!

 

[skpyle]

Finished my day in the engine bay.

The plastic corrugated split tubing loom that covered the engine bay wiring harness was deteriorated in many places. To the point of being missing. I removed and/or cut away all the bad loom. I got a tip from a fellow here at TYF a couple of years ago: plastic braided split loom. I had bought 1". 3/4", 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4", as well as several rolls of sealing tape.

Go to post #129 in this thread:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...cle-refurbishment.130866/page-13#post-1651580

One by one, I went through the harness runs and fitted the new braided loom on each. I used sealing tape at each end. And wherever there was a breakout.
Overall, I am very pleased with the result! This was a good idea Chooko!!!

New braided split loom looks much better. I did not do the entire harness. The larger main sections were intact. I just taped the joints between the old and new tubing. Also, smaller break out wires were wrapped in a heavy fabric tape. Such as the fuel injector wires or the coolant temp sensor plug. All of them were in good condition, so I didn't cover them.



Had to fix a possible screw-up. Again rereading the service manual instructions for intake manifold R&R, it talked about 'labeling the fuel injector connectors.' Uh-oh. I didn't do that. I had photos. And I was 'pretty sure' I knew which plug went where.
To be sure, I went to the Interactive Color Wiring Diagram - non OE in AllData. I was able to determine what color wires went to each fuel injector connector. Then matched it up on my connectors. Sharpie took care of the rest.
Much better.

Color wiring diagram of the fuel injectors from AllData.

I put notes in my phone, then compared them to the injector wiring at the Escalade.



I am now at a stopping point. I am still waiting for the fuel injectors to return.
Once they are back, the intake manifold gets reassembled and reinstalled.
Engine bay wiring harness gets routed and reconnected.
Serpentine belt system gets reinstalled.
Any other little details.

Then start this sucker!!!

 

[89Suburban]

Finished my day in the engine bay.

The plastic corrugated split tubing loom that covered the engine bay wiring harness was deteriorated in many places. To the point of being missing. I removed and/or cut away all the bad loom. I got a tip from a fellow here at TYF a couple of years ago: plastic braided split loom. I had bought 1". 3/4", 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4", as well as several rolls of sealing tape.

Go to post #129 in this thread:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...cle-refurbishment.130866/page-13#post-1651580

One by one, I went through the harness runs and fitted the new braided loom on each. I used sealing tape at each end. And wherever there was a breakout.
Overall, I am very pleased with the result! This was a good idea Chooko!!!


View attachment 417066


View attachment 417067


View attachment 417068
New braided split loom looks much better. I did not do the entire harness. The larger main sections were intact. I just taped the joints between the old and new tubing. Also, smaller break out wires were wrapped in a heavy fabric tape. Such as the fuel injector wires or the coolant temp sensor plug. All of them were in good condition, so I didn't cover them.



Had to fix a possible screw-up. Again rereading the service manual instructions for intake manifold R&R, it talked about 'labeling the fuel injector connectors.' Uh-oh. I didn't do that. I had photos. And I was 'pretty sure' I knew which plug went where.
To be sure, I went to the Interactive Color Wiring Diagram - non OE in AllData. I was able to determine what color wires went to each fuel injector connector. Then matched it up on my connectors. Sharpie took care of the rest.
Much better.


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Color wiring diagram of the fuel injectors from AllData.


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I put notes in my phone, then compared them to the injector wiring at the Escalade.



I am now at a stopping point. I am still waiting for the fuel injectors to return.
Once they are back, the intake manifold gets reassembled and reinstalled.
Engine bay wiring harness gets routed and reconnected.
Serpentine belt system gets reinstalled.
Any other little details.

Then start this sucker!!!

Looks good. Hopefully the taped ends don't put too much stress on the wiring where it enters the plug.

I am curious, on the wire harness where it connects to the throttle body. Did you replace that loom as well? Did you notice any kind of splicing in that area of that pigtail? Or differences in the color coding of the wire sheaths?