Trying to narrow down P0171 and P0174 codes

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TURNz

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Posts
173
Reaction score
28
It has been a while since I have been on. I got rid of my Tahoe a while back, but I am in need of some guidance to steer me in the right direction with my wife's 2004 Suburban Z71 Flex fuel (there are no FLEX fuel badges, but the VIN is FLEX and so is the fuel pump) ~250K mi.
This is going to be a long one, but bottom line is, had some things repaired and now we get P0171 and P0174 (bank 1 and 2 LEAN). Trying to troubleshoot it.
Here is the immediate back story of repairs.

The truck sat for almost a year. When we decided to get it on the road again, it blew a brake line. So took it to the mechanic and purchased the stainless brake line kit to replace them all.
He dropped the fuel tank to access the rear brake line, and ended up also replacing the fuel pump (housing was cracked).
We had been having EVAP issues prior to letting it sit, so I had him replace the charcoal cannister, evap purge solenoid and evap vent solenoid (dorman parts)
He also replaced two calipers and the rear u-joint on drive shaft (probably irrelevant, but)

When it's really cold, the idle will stumble until it warms up. If you put it in gear right away when it's cold, the check engine light flashes and you get "P0300". But once it's warm, that goes away. If I clear the LEAN codes and drive, they both go PENDING, and Bank 2 usually sets the code, and bank 1 stays PENDING.

What I've tried:
1. I used MAF cleaner on the MAF
2. I sprayed throttle-body cleaner on vacuum hoses while it's running, listening for a surge.
3. I check fuel pressure (40-45psi) primed with key on, engine off.

If it wasn't for the engine light, once it starts warming up, I wouldn't know anything was wrong. It drives fine.

If I can't find it, I'll go back to the mechanic, but he's very busy and my truck took way more time than we expected, so it won't be quick to get back in.
 

Attachments

  • tempFileForShare_20251230-103321.jpg
    tempFileForShare_20251230-103321.jpg
    652 KB · Views: 4
OP
OP
TURNz

TURNz

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Posts
173
Reaction score
28
I took some fuel trim and other readings when it was at operating temp
 

Attachments

  • 20251223_170249.jpg
    20251223_170249.jpg
    155.6 KB · Views: 6
  • 20251223_170208.jpg
    20251223_170208.jpg
    204.6 KB · Views: 3
  • 20251223_165809.jpg
    20251223_165809.jpg
    164.3 KB · Views: 6

strutaeng

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2023
Posts
1,756
Reaction score
3,817
Location
Dallas, Texas
Usually a lean on both banks within a few points of each other is fuel delivery issues, but your pressure seems okay.

Can you monitor your fuel trims at 2,000 and 3,000 rpm? If fuel trims improve (get closer to zero), then it's most likely a vacuum leak.
 
OP
OP
TURNz

TURNz

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Posts
173
Reaction score
28
I assume you mean short term trims?
 

justirv

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2011
Posts
253
Reaction score
300
It has been a while since I have been on. I got rid of my Tahoe a while back, but I am in need of some guidance to steer me in the right direction with my wife's 2004 Suburban Z71 Flex fuel (there are no FLEX fuel badges, but the VIN is FLEX and so is the fuel pump) ~250K mi.
This is going to be a long one, but bottom line is, had some things repaired and now we get P0171 and P0174 (bank 1 and 2 LEAN). Trying to troubleshoot it.
Here is the immediate back story of repairs.

The truck sat for almost a year. When we decided to get it on the road again, it blew a brake line. So took it to the mechanic and purchased the stainless brake line kit to replace them all.
He dropped the fuel tank to access the rear brake line, and ended up also replacing the fuel pump (housing was cracked).
We had been having EVAP issues prior to letting it sit, so I had him replace the charcoal cannister, evap purge solenoid and evap vent solenoid (dorman parts)
He also replaced two calipers and the rear u-joint on drive shaft (probably irrelevant, but)

When it's really cold, the idle will stumble until it warms up. If you put it in gear right away when it's cold, the check engine light flashes and you get "P0300". But once it's warm, that goes away. If I clear the LEAN codes and drive, they both go PENDING, and Bank 2 usually sets the code, and bank 1 stays PENDING.

What I've tried:
1. I used MAF cleaner on the MAF
2. I sprayed throttle-body cleaner on vacuum hoses while it's running, listening for a surge.
3. I check fuel pressure (40-45psi) primed with key on, engine off.

If it wasn't for the engine light, once it starts warming up, I wouldn't know anything was wrong. It drives fine.

If I can't find it, I'll go back to the mechanic, but he's very busy and my truck took way more time than we expected, so it won't be quick to get back in.
When I see "cold" stumble at idle, my first thought is intake manifold gaskets... try a smoke test or spray some carb cleaner at the gaskets itself... they "seal" when they expand when warm. Lean conditions can also be caused by broken exhaust manifold bolts, all the time...
 
OP
OP
TURNz

TURNz

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Posts
173
Reaction score
28
So I used Throttle Body cleaner to spray around. I'm not sure if that's flammable enough to cause a stumble like carb cleaner.
 

Fless

Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Apr 2, 2017
Posts
15,344
Reaction score
31,411
Location
Elev 5,280
You can use unlit propane to search for vacuum leaks, too.

The MAF seems to be under-reporting. At hot idle it should be very close to the engine displacement in liters. E.g., 5.3 in g/sec. Recommend trying a different OE MAF.

What ethanol mix of fuel is it running? E10, E15, E85? Fuel filter ever been changed?

The fuel pressure at the rail seems to be a bit low. Do you know which specific pump was installed?
For fuel pressure, according to Haynes:
KOEO (key on, engine off)
Flex Fuel: 48-54 psi
Non-Flex: 55-62 psi

Also, the fuel pressure regulators do go bad, so checking that to see if fuel is getting into the vacuum side might be a good idea.
 
OP
OP
TURNz

TURNz

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Posts
173
Reaction score
28
I run 87octane, E10. I've never tried actual FLEX FUEL.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,695
Posts
1,966,734
Members
102,111
Latest member
johnnyc
Back
Top