OP
OP
Thank you Mark.Coming together nicely.
My From Start to Finish 6.0L Build
- Thread starter RAMurphy
- Start date
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OP
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The "barbell" did in fact arrive this afternoon. Hoping to get this installed along with the back cover tomorrow.
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Was able to work on the engine this morning. Pulled the block off the stand so I can work on the back more easily.
Barbell Installed.
Barbell Installed.
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On to the cover utilizing my alignment tool.
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Pulled alignment tool and installed seal.
Both timing cover and rear cover completely flush with block.
Both timing cover and rear cover completely flush with block.
At this point, have you run into any challenges or issues a guy should know about or has it been pretty straightforward?
OP
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Mark, I can tell by your build thread that you are a detailed sort of guy and do your research and study. So I don't expect you will have any real issues if and when you do something like this build. I really haven't run into any real issues. I've only ran into two challenges:
1. Installing the wrist pins circle clips. These hold the wrist pins on either end of the pistons. I read that these can be installed without special tools but these people must have biceps in their fingers. I ended up getting a tool, which I mentioned in this build early on. Once I get the tool, it was pretty straight forward have the first piston or two. I sure wouldn't get the plastic tool, it won't last. I could have got my machine shop to do this but I wanted to do the whole build.
2. Second challenge is the willingness to spend money for the necessary tools. Some are one time use tools. I just placed them in a box and will sell them at a later date.
As long as you do the research, have the build books you mentioned earlier, this forum and of course "alldata" it really has been pretty straightforward. At least so far.........
iamdub
Full Access Member
I've never installed a RMS after the cover was on. I've always had the seal in the cover with the donut that guides it and pops out to keep the lips on the seal leaning forward. Did you have any problems keeping the lips aimed properly with this method?
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@iamdub I've watched so many videos and it was split almost 50/50 on install. Most people don't want to spend the money on the alignment tools so they proceed the way you mentioned - which is perfectly ok and was the way I was going to go. I reached out to Texas Speed and they stated they use the tool method but they build lots and lots of engines. I decided to go the tool route - so simple and the tool set comes with a u-shaped plate to ensure the cover and oil pan alignment is essentially perfect. As for your question about keeping the lips aimed perfectly - not an issue. By the way, I used your suggestion about the RTV.
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Spent part of the day looking for an oil pan for this build. Still looking.
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Found the oil pan I wanted on Summit and like I always do, I took the time and found it $100 cheaper on Amazon. Called Summit and they matched they beat the price by one dollar. Still free shipping but a little slower by a day or two. Not in a hurry so Summit got my money.
iamdub
Full Access Member
A factory pan?
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@iamdub I wanted to reach out to you earlier. I did measure the distance the high end portion of my pistons come outta the hole and it measured exactly .042". As a point of reference pictures of the piston's are on page 15 of my build. Your thoughts on gasket thickness based on this information?
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No. Hard to find and quite costly. I do have a few phone calls out to a couple pick and pulls - but they tend to keep them with the engine. It's a Dorman. It is a hunk of metal so I'm not too concerned. However, if I don't like the quality, then I will swap it out with the pan on my current engine when I pull it.
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I've been reading through my build thread and came across this response from you. And I just now learned how to include additional quotes in a thread. Which I will do in the future.
iamdub
Full Access Member
But, a cast, factory-style pan, yeah? On a daily driver, I'm not a fan of the aftermarket stamped and/or fabricated sheet metal pans.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I really hope you mean .0042", as in a hair over four thousandths! The stock head gasket is about .052" compressed, so .042" means you'd have about .010" quench. Never mind PTV clearance! You need around .037" minimum quench for safety. If that wasn't a typo, then you're looking at needing around a .079" thick gasket!
Confirm the piston height at TDC. Also, did all the pistons measure the same?
All my previous ramblings are in reference to stock dimensions. Still, .010" quench is too tight for anything, if your .042" is accurate. Because of the pistons you have, I'd ask TSP what they'd recommend for gasket thickness. They're gonna need to know what heads you have and their specs (casting, chamber volume, any shaving, etc.), your cam specs, your intended CR and quench preferences (I'd aim for as close to .037" as reasonably possible). Ideally, you can satisfy all with a stock gasket as it'd be the cheapest. I think Fel-Pro offers thinner MLS gaskets for not so much more cost as stock gaskets. I wish I had known this when I ordered my Cometics.
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Yes, it is a cast, factory-style pan. Concur about the other types of pans.
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Thank you for the timely and quick response. I'm learning a lot from this build. I will doublecheck my numbers and update as required - but I'm pretty sure it is a typo - now I'm second guessing myself. Don't have my notes in front of me. Pretty sure they were all pretty close with the middle set of pistons so slightly less. I was going to reach out to TSP because I'm either going to use a set of their heads, a set of trick flow heads or 243 heads.
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I talked to TSP this morning and I learned that I was measuring the wrong spot on the piston to achieve the correct tolerance number. I'm going to try and explain this so it makes sense. As stated in an earlier post my pistons from a "net volume (-2.00)" are equivalent to a "flat" piston perspective. However, they do have valve relief and as such a section that is "raised" to compensate from a volume perspective. To measure the amount the piston comes out of the bore, I need to measure at the edge of the piston or the flat section on the other side of the valve relief - not the raised section. That would be important as I select the heads I use but based on my discussion with TSP this will not be an issue with the possible heads I may use. TSP also stated that once I choose the heads they would help me choose the head gasket to achieve the proper quench and compression ratio I require. This company and the customer support is first rate. Based on that info I rechecked and the largest number was just short of .001.
I was measuring where the Texas Speed logo is printed.
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