My From Start to Finish 6.0L Build

[RAMurphy]

TBSS installed and torqued down. What a PITA to get the back three driver side bolts installed and torqued down. I'm taking a little break before I continue all the connections. I'm getting old.....

 

[iamdub]

I've been doing some compression calculations on my own and other research, and I agree with your thoughts/suggestions. Thank you.

I'm sure they're what you're using, but there are some good compression calculators online. I found a really thorough one when I was doing mine. It factored in everything pertinent. You need to know the actual chamber volume of your heads as they vary from the advertised specs, even from the factory.

 

[iamdub]

I just finished up conversations with an engine builder I have utilized in the past and with Tech Support from Texas Speed. Both have stated that the engine I want to build utilizing the rotating assembly I purchased (with flathead pistons) utilizing either the 862 or 243 heads should not be a problem (using premium fuel). As I stated in an earlier thread - I already burn Premium. Texas Speed recommends the 243 heads because they breath better at higher RPMs but said 862 should not be a problem. My engine builder also stated yes 243 heads breath better but since I'm looking at lower RPMs that should not be a problem. Even Roger from Vinci Hi-Performance, who I received my upgraded camshaft from, had no issue with my build. Not sure why BBP has such a concern. The type of heads I end up using is not critical at this point - I may even use after market heads (highly unlikely (cost) but possible). Both conversations included their computation of CR and were similar to what I computed. Texas Speed recommended and computed compression ratio based on the standard head gasket thickness of .051". @iamdub - based on the rotating assembly I ordered there should not be pistons out of the hole. More research to follow.

I'd decide the heads that best compliment the chosen cam. You won't lose any low-end with the 243s so why risk choking (however minimal) at the top end? There's a reason GM switched to them as the standard on the GenIV 5.3. Have you considered pricing out having the 862s CNC'ed? Maybe with larger intake valves (like 2.00" or 2.02") ?

What's the rotating assembly you ordered?

 

[RAMurphy]

I'd decide the heads that best compliment the chosen cam. You won't lose any low-end with the 243s so why risk choking (however minimal) at the top end? There's a reason GM switched to them as the standard on the GenIV 5.3. Have you considered pricing out having the 862s CNC'ed? Maybe with larger intake valves (like 2.00" or 2.02") ?

What's the rotating assembly you ordered?

Thank you for all the input. I'm pretty much leaning towards the 243 heads. After a lot of research and talking to several companies, I'm purchasing a fully balanced rotating assembly from Texas Speed. It will be standard crankshaft, rods, bearings and upgraded piston rings and flat head pistons. Should receive the assembly mid-December. Still researching and quite frankly determining the type/size of the head gasket.

 

[RAMurphy]

Completed the TBSS install. Not quite as simple as the multiple youtube posts out there but not that difficult. After install, I needed to reroute some wires and get creative on how I mounted some of the cable brackets on top of the TBSS manifold. I also needed to fix a minor fuel leak but she started right up. Idle was off for about 30-90 seconds but the computer corrected that issue. Disappointed that I was not able to use the Vortec cover, but I haven't given up on that just yet. I can be pretty creative. I still need to record some data for BBP to get the final tune but she runs great. My initial opinion is that I feel that I don't need to step on it as much to get the same result - but when I do really step on it "WOW". Definitely worth the upgrade.

 

[RAMurphy]

In the process of putting this project back to together I managed to do something to the the serpentine belt tensioner. not sure how, but is is was squawking a bit. I just ordered an ac delco replacement.

 

[Rocket Man]

Completed the TBSS install. Not quite as simple as the multiple you tube posts out there but not that difficult. After install, I needed to reroute some wires and get creative on how I mounted some of the cable brackets on top of the TBSS manifold. I also needed to fix a minor fuel leak but she started right up. Idle was off for about 30-90 seconds but the computer corrected that issue. Disappointed that I was not able to use the Vortec cover, but I haven't given up on that just yet. I can be pretty creative. I still need to record some data for BBP to get the final tune but she runs great. My initial opinion is that I feel that I don't need to step on it as much to get the same result - but when I do really step on it "WOW". Definitely worth the upgrade.

Nice work, looks clean.

 

[RAMurphy]

Thanks @Rocket Man , really debated on whether I was going to do this now or when I installed the 6.0L. I'm glad I did it now, pretty impressed with the change. A shout out to you for your help - I learned a lot with those connections.

 

[RAMurphy]

Nice work, looks clean.

It was more work than i would have thought - thanks.

 

[iamdub]

Thank you for all the input. I'm pretty much leaning towards the 243 heads. After a lot of research and talking to several companies, I purchasing a fully balance rotating assembly from Texas Speed. It will be standard crankshaft, rods, bearings and upgraded piston rings and flat head pistons. Should receive the assemble mid December. Still researching and quite frankly determining the type/size of the head gasket.

If the rotating assembly is all stock specs, then the pistons should be out of the hole a few thou, like .004" - .008" at TDC. This always varies between builds (even from the factory) and even seems to always vary between cylinders. Typically, the corner cylinders (numbers 1, 2, 7 and 8) will be more out of the hole than the center ones (numbers 3, 4, 5 and 6). Always measure your assembled one. You'll need a head gasket at least about .037" more than the highest piston, just to give you rough figures.

 

[RAMurphy]

If the rotating assembly is all stock specs, then the pistons should be out of the hole a few thou, like .004" - .008" at TDC. This always varies between builds (even from the factory) and even seems to always vary between cylinders. Typically, the corner cylinders (numbers 1, 2, 7 and 8) will be more out of the hole than the center ones (numbers 3, 4, 5 and 6). Always measure your assembled one. You'll need a head gasket at least about .037" more than the highest piston, just to give you rough figures.

Continue to learn something new everyday. Thanks for the information. I always say if you learn something new in the day then it is a good day. Today has already started off as a good day.

 

[RAMurphy]

Disappointed that I was not able to use the Vortec cover, but I haven't given up on that just yet.

Spent a good portion of the day watching football and sitting by the fire (it was chilly here today) but I may have a solution to installing my Vortec engine cover, I will post a picture if it works out. Still running great and no signs of my initial fuel leak.

 

[RAMurphy]

I was able to move a few wire bundles slightly and trim my back cable bracket (plastic piece) slightly so it fits better on the TBSS throttle body and now my Vortec engine cover fits in the two back slots and lays nicely on the throttle body. Looks nice. The next problem to overcome is to come up with a way to secure it from the top. The 10mm bolt that normally holds it down is right over the new MAP sensor location. Although the cover fits nicely, I want to find a way to secure it at the top. Back to the drawing board - but I'm closer.

 

[Rocket Man]

I was able to move a few wire bundles slightly and trim my back cable bracket (plastic piece) slightly so it fits better on the TBSS throttle body and now my Vortec engine cover fits in the two back slots and lays nicely on the throttle body. Looks nice. The next problem to overcome is to come up with a way to secure it from the top. The 10mm bolt that normally holds it down is right over the new MAP sensor location. Although the cover fits nicely, I want to find a way to secure it at the top. Back to the drawing board - but I'm closer.

View attachment 385706

I have faith in you that you’ll figure something out.

 

[RAMurphy]

I have a solution. It might take a little bit of time to order and fabricate the parts I need, but I will be able to install the cover and finish the dress up of this upgrade. I will post pictures when completed. Have I stated how much I love this Upgrade?

 

[Walchit]

Love this thread! I need to get some stuff done on mine, been procrastinating

 

[RAMurphy]

On Friday, I received my update to the TBSS tune BBP provided for this project. Just minor tweaks. Received this update less than a week after I provided my run data to BBP. I also installed the belt tensioner which I also received on Friday.

 

[Rocket Man]

On Friday, I received my update to the TBSS tune BBP provided for this project. Just minor tweaks. Received this update less than a week after I provided my run data to BBP. I also installed the belt tensioner which I also received on Friday.

That’s great news, they must be getting caught up. Maybe they hired on additional staff. My last update took well over a month, that’s when I bought my own tuning software.

 

[RAMurphy]

I called Texas Speed this morning for basically two reasons.

1. To check the status of my rotating assembly. All parts are in house and the kit is in the queue for balancing. They expect shipping in 5-10 days.

2. To discuss an issue I'm having with the Holley throttle body. I have what I would describe as a "whistle" when I first start up the Tahoe. When it warms up it goes away to the point I can't hear it from the driver's seat. However, open the hood and you can hear it. It gets more pronounced under slight throttle. But under mid to full throttle - nothing. My first thought was vacuum leak, but i confirmed it was not (plus BBP saw my data and there is no vacuum leak that the data shows. Plus I ran a scan and all is good). I took the cold air intake off - wow you can hear it. It is coming from the IAC ports. Put your finger slightly over the hole and it goes away. Did some research, wished I did it before I bought it, and this seems to be a known issue with this throttle body. So I talked to Jared from Texas Speed and he confirmed that this was an issue with this throttle body. I ended up going with his recommendation and buying a FAST throttle body.

 

[Rocket Man]

I called Texas Speed this morning for basically two reasons.

1. To check the status of my rotating assembly. All parts are in house and the kit is in the queue for balancing. They expect shipping in 5-10 days.

2. To discuss an issue I'm having with the Holley throttle body. I have what I would describe as a "whistle" when I first start up the Tahoe. When it warms up it goes away to the point I can't hear it from the driver's seat. However, open the hood and you can hear it. It gets more pronounced under slight throttle. But under mid to full throttle - nothing. My first thought was vacuum leak, but i confirmed it was not (plus BBP saw my data and there is no vacuum leak that the data shows. Plus I ran a scan and all is good). I took the cold air intake off - wow you can hear it. It is coming from the IAC ports. Put your finger slightly over the hole and it goes away. Did some research, wished I did it before I bought it, and this seems to be a known issue with this throttle body. So I talked to Jared from Texas Speed and he confirmed that this was an issue with this throttle body. I ended up going with his recommendation and buying a FAST throttle body.

I’ve heard that about the Holleys too. Somebody else here I believe was experiencing the whistle and Holley wasn’t being much help to him.