pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
That bracket mounts with the vent hose toward the firewall, I think. I can't remember if the fuel line goes on the same stud or not. I remember it being a *****. Much easier from the top than it was from the bottom though
Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread
- Thread starter Just Fishing
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I nearly put the intake on last night, then i noticed a little metal bracket i missed on top of the transmission.
Holds the vent lines.
So now i get to try and remember how that attached on there...
funny shaped little thing, it's not making it easy!
This one?
Does this help?
You can see the vent sticking up here (green tip):
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I almost tagged you because I thought you'd have a pic
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
@iamdub
thanks for that.
last night i did some fiddling and i think i got it pretty close.
I had removed one of the rubber vent lines in order to get the nut off, and it sorta lost it's position.
I got the intake on, and primed the oil system last night.
Nearly 40psi cranking w/o plugs or anything plugged in.
I also flashed what i think will be a good startup tune.
it has 6.2 fueling with the 6.0 2500 hd truck spark map.
Looking pretty good IMO.
I also noticed the intake rocker bolts left a tiny hanger of metal.
I suspected that would be the case, i wish i ran a rocker bolt through before installing the heads.
But each intake, i was able to pull out a little piece of aluminum from the pass through bolt.
Here is hoping i didn't score something.
For the oil fill neck, when i did this last time i broke the little lock tab off and just replaced the fill neck.
this time around i was aware of the little lock tab.
I was able to remove the neck by using a little pick to pull the lock tabs out.
Issue i had after replacing the neck was a bit of slop in the valve cover...
This time around I got some paint down the neck right into the area that the o-ring sits in hopes to fix the slop.
I also had this little o-ring kit on hand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MF9LQSK
I found the perfect size to squeeze in right above the OEM o-ring.
It's smaller in dia, but just big enough to take up the slop nicely!
Installed, i can't even tell it's there.
I also used this stuff on the honed bore of the block.
Total Seal Piston Rings QS - Total Seal Quickseat Dry Film Cylinder Wall Lubricant
www.summitracing.com
Selling feature as i understood it, ring seal from the first startup.
I had to find the YouTube video on how to use it, the instructions were vague.
YouTube instruction video:
Pretty much you clean the bore until white glove treatment comes out clean.
Then wipe down again with wd40 until the rag comes out totally clean.
then rub that stuff into the bore ensuring its the correct color, then lightly wipe the excess.
What i love about it is that nothing really stuck to it, like with an oil it would attract all sorts of things like lint and dust.
I was able to keep the bores nice and clean with a blow of compressed air.
rotating the engine was super smooth.
watching videos of a freshly honed bore and new rings always had a little scratching noise.
None of that noticed with this stuff.
I also used their piston ring lube to go along with it.
I would totally use it again.
And that little tub of lube really went a long ways.
I believe there is enough left over for another engine at least.
thanks for that.
last night i did some fiddling and i think i got it pretty close.
I had removed one of the rubber vent lines in order to get the nut off, and it sorta lost it's position.
I got the intake on, and primed the oil system last night.
Nearly 40psi cranking w/o plugs or anything plugged in.
I also flashed what i think will be a good startup tune.
it has 6.2 fueling with the 6.0 2500 hd truck spark map.
Looking pretty good IMO.
I also noticed the intake rocker bolts left a tiny hanger of metal.
I suspected that would be the case, i wish i ran a rocker bolt through before installing the heads.
But each intake, i was able to pull out a little piece of aluminum from the pass through bolt.
Here is hoping i didn't score something.
For the oil fill neck, when i did this last time i broke the little lock tab off and just replaced the fill neck.
this time around i was aware of the little lock tab.
I was able to remove the neck by using a little pick to pull the lock tabs out.
Issue i had after replacing the neck was a bit of slop in the valve cover...
This time around I got some paint down the neck right into the area that the o-ring sits in hopes to fix the slop.
I also had this little o-ring kit on hand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MF9LQSK
I found the perfect size to squeeze in right above the OEM o-ring.
It's smaller in dia, but just big enough to take up the slop nicely!
Installed, i can't even tell it's there.
I also used this stuff on the honed bore of the block.
Total Seal Piston Rings QS - Total Seal Quickseat Dry Film Cylinder Wall Lubricant
Total Seal Piston Rings QS Total Seal Quickseat Dry Film Cylinder Wall Lubricant | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Total Seal Quickseat Dry Film Cylinder Wall Lubricant with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Assembly Lubricant at Summit Racing.
Selling feature as i understood it, ring seal from the first startup.
I had to find the YouTube video on how to use it, the instructions were vague.
YouTube instruction video:
Pretty much you clean the bore until white glove treatment comes out clean.
Then wipe down again with wd40 until the rag comes out totally clean.
then rub that stuff into the bore ensuring its the correct color, then lightly wipe the excess.
What i love about it is that nothing really stuck to it, like with an oil it would attract all sorts of things like lint and dust.
I was able to keep the bores nice and clean with a blow of compressed air.
rotating the engine was super smooth.
watching videos of a freshly honed bore and new rings always had a little scratching noise.
None of that noticed with this stuff.
I also used their piston ring lube to go along with it.
I would totally use it again.
And that little tub of lube really went a long ways.
I believe there is enough left over for another engine at least.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I also had an issue with my oil pump priming tool.
First the seals seemed to have blown out in the handle, and it started purging out oil pretty badly.
then finally as i had nearly a gallon pumped through the priming port, I raised the psi on my air system in order to try and get more oil out of the pushrods.
then the little hose popped off of the side of the block.
oil everywhere!
I sure wish i fully bolted in the front axle right about now...
So My goal is to get the rest of the truck assembled, antifreeze filled.
truck on 4 wheels.
And then see if i can't get the hoe pushed forward slightly.
I need to get the fuel removed from the tank for the first startup...
That should be fun.
I also thought of a hole in my plan, the fuel lines still have 87 octane in there.
And of course the intake does as well...
I'm thinking I'll pop the fuel line off at the intake once more and see if i can't bleed the 87 outta there.
the stuff in the intake/injectors.
Well i suppose that's just going to stay there.
Also where the fk is the fuel pump fuses?
Looking at the fuse block under the hood, i see a spot where it says they should be. but nothing there?!
It says there should be a fuse, and a relay looking square thing.
I see metal connectors down in the hole, but nothing there.
Plan was to do the crank with that removed to prevent more fuel from entering the intake, but that didn't work out.
First the seals seemed to have blown out in the handle, and it started purging out oil pretty badly.
then finally as i had nearly a gallon pumped through the priming port, I raised the psi on my air system in order to try and get more oil out of the pushrods.
then the little hose popped off of the side of the block.
oil everywhere!
I sure wish i fully bolted in the front axle right about now...
So My goal is to get the rest of the truck assembled, antifreeze filled.
truck on 4 wheels.
And then see if i can't get the hoe pushed forward slightly.
I need to get the fuel removed from the tank for the first startup...
That should be fun.
I also thought of a hole in my plan, the fuel lines still have 87 octane in there.
And of course the intake does as well...
I'm thinking I'll pop the fuel line off at the intake once more and see if i can't bleed the 87 outta there.
the stuff in the intake/injectors.
Well i suppose that's just going to stay there.
Also where the fk is the fuel pump fuses?
Looking at the fuse block under the hood, i see a spot where it says they should be. but nothing there?!
It says there should be a fuse, and a relay looking square thing.
I see metal connectors down in the hole, but nothing there.
Plan was to do the crank with that removed to prevent more fuel from entering the intake, but that didn't work out.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Even a blind squirrel nuts in the eye of the beerholder.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Just hold the throttle to the floor and the injectors won't fire. That tiny bit of 87 in the lines won't mean shìt. Don't sweat it.
iamdub
Full Access Member
BTW, here's the differences in the rocker covers. To greatly reduce the oil being consumed through the PCV system, they relocated the inlet (#2):
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Been thinking about that, but i heard that octane boost didn't really work.
doing some thinking about the subject, and the fact that i have some pretty lame timing from an 08 2500 hd silverado 6.0, I ran with that.
Really spark knock should only be a thing under load, so i decided to go with it.
I opted to do some data logging with hp tuners during the startup cycle.
looking for knock and knock retard.
I also watched the fuel trims to see how far it was off.
so far it seemed to be removing more fuel than adding.
Engine is alive!
I found that i totally forgot to connect the power lead to the alternator after i spent some time trying to figure where the fk i put i.
then i remembered, it should go directly to the battery!
Found it spooled up next to the battery, just where i put it back in march.
Then I totally spaced it and routed that pig back in place with the battery hooked up.
nothing important shorted, but it did manage to let me know as i routed near the alternator for a split zap.
(Making a note of this little whoops as i try and figure out the wtf at the bottom of this post)
So I started up the engine, and it was not happy at all.
I thought it was the throttle/idle learn bs so i chased that goose for a bit.
then i started reading up on the error being with the tps sensor.
Then i found it totally disconnected.
Routing that alt power wire I disconnected the throttle position sensor.
And apparently I totally forgot to plug it back in... lol
First break-in cycle ran through, i did maybe 10/20min of 1500 - 3500 rpm slow up and down.
No knocks noted in hp tuners.
Hard to keep track of time as i was chasing my tail with the sensor, and the transmission fluid level.
I ran it longer than i would have liked to with the transmission fluid low.
like a gallon low...
Maybe a 30sec +/-
From there I kept up on the fluid with the engine off, knowing it should sit above the full/hot level with out the pump running.
+I read to not let the engine idle during the first bit of the run time.
Then did an oil change, and filled up with one more go of break-in oil and a fresh filter.
Lots of magnets on those filters.
Then took the hoe for a nice little drive while logging for spark knock.
I noticed a few here and there, but nothing major.
I went to the gas station that had the race fuel @ 110 octane, but none was found.
So i topped off with some 91.
My thought was to do lots of low speed cruising with stops and goes.
kept it in tow mode to ensure i got some decel engine braking for those rings.
the 6.0 has a noticeable increase of low-end grunt, even with me just going easy on it.
Me like very much.
but then i ran into an issue.
Mid throttle/ish, is started to get a reduced power message and the hoe would start to run like ass.
Super rich.
rich is bad, especially during the break-in cycle.
it rinses my bore and rings from the expensive break-in helpers.
Code: p0606
That comes up as a generic ecm fault.
so either something went funky with my tune, I missed a ground, or i shorted something out.
When installing the engine, we did manage to lightly crush some of the wiring that routes above the intake.
I did some mild cleanup and taping, i didn't find anything broken.
Just some damaged insulators
wrapped those damaged wires with some super 88 and called it gtg.
( I'm making a note of that as i might need to do more checking of that wiring harness later)
I also got a pretty solid air bag warning message, I remembered the guy that helped me get the engine installed pointed out that he damaged a sensor.
That's the first place i'll start, maybe I have a short.
Last night i also took a crossbuff that fit the battery terminal and cleaned/polished that pig to perfection.
On a positive note, my pushrod length so far seems to be good.
One step below 7.4 seemed to be about right with the original heads, and that seems to have carried over with the afr heads.
Today my task is to clean up the garage a little, and add some refrigerant to the hoe, and then start checking things.
if the error keeps up, i'll try a different tune.
But i'll probably try writing the current tune once more for good measure...
Either way, i need AC if i'm going to spend any time in the hoe.
doing some thinking about the subject, and the fact that i have some pretty lame timing from an 08 2500 hd silverado 6.0, I ran with that.
Really spark knock should only be a thing under load, so i decided to go with it.
I opted to do some data logging with hp tuners during the startup cycle.
looking for knock and knock retard.
I also watched the fuel trims to see how far it was off.
so far it seemed to be removing more fuel than adding.
Engine is alive!
I found that i totally forgot to connect the power lead to the alternator after i spent some time trying to figure where the fk i put i.
then i remembered, it should go directly to the battery!
Found it spooled up next to the battery, just where i put it back in march.
Then I totally spaced it and routed that pig back in place with the battery hooked up.
nothing important shorted, but it did manage to let me know as i routed near the alternator for a split zap.
(Making a note of this little whoops as i try and figure out the wtf at the bottom of this post)
So I started up the engine, and it was not happy at all.
I thought it was the throttle/idle learn bs so i chased that goose for a bit.
then i started reading up on the error being with the tps sensor.
Then i found it totally disconnected.
Routing that alt power wire I disconnected the throttle position sensor.
And apparently I totally forgot to plug it back in... lol
First break-in cycle ran through, i did maybe 10/20min of 1500 - 3500 rpm slow up and down.
No knocks noted in hp tuners.
Hard to keep track of time as i was chasing my tail with the sensor, and the transmission fluid level.
I ran it longer than i would have liked to with the transmission fluid low.
like a gallon low...
Maybe a 30sec +/-
From there I kept up on the fluid with the engine off, knowing it should sit above the full/hot level with out the pump running.
+I read to not let the engine idle during the first bit of the run time.
Then did an oil change, and filled up with one more go of break-in oil and a fresh filter.
Lots of magnets on those filters.
Then took the hoe for a nice little drive while logging for spark knock.
I noticed a few here and there, but nothing major.
I went to the gas station that had the race fuel @ 110 octane, but none was found.
So i topped off with some 91.
My thought was to do lots of low speed cruising with stops and goes.
kept it in tow mode to ensure i got some decel engine braking for those rings.
the 6.0 has a noticeable increase of low-end grunt, even with me just going easy on it.
Me like very much.
but then i ran into an issue.
Mid throttle/ish, is started to get a reduced power message and the hoe would start to run like ass.
Super rich.
rich is bad, especially during the break-in cycle.
it rinses my bore and rings from the expensive break-in helpers.
Code: p0606
That comes up as a generic ecm fault.
so either something went funky with my tune, I missed a ground, or i shorted something out.
When installing the engine, we did manage to lightly crush some of the wiring that routes above the intake.
I did some mild cleanup and taping, i didn't find anything broken.
Just some damaged insulators
wrapped those damaged wires with some super 88 and called it gtg.
( I'm making a note of that as i might need to do more checking of that wiring harness later)
I also got a pretty solid air bag warning message, I remembered the guy that helped me get the engine installed pointed out that he damaged a sensor.
That's the first place i'll start, maybe I have a short.
Last night i also took a crossbuff that fit the battery terminal and cleaned/polished that pig to perfection.
On a positive note, my pushrod length so far seems to be good.
One step below 7.4 seemed to be about right with the original heads, and that seems to have carried over with the afr heads.
Today my task is to clean up the garage a little, and add some refrigerant to the hoe, and then start checking things.
if the error keeps up, i'll try a different tune.
But i'll probably try writing the current tune once more for good measure...
Either way, i need AC if i'm going to spend any time in the hoe.
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