What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sparksalot]

As @RooTBeeRthe1st mentioned, most of the gains are with the transmission tuning. The throttle tuning is crap and the shifting is slow and weak- so much that it affects trans life. If you drive easy, it's not such a big deal. But trying to drive more spiritedly (shooting a gap, having to accelerate quickly for a short merge lane, etc.) is where the pitfalls really show. You eventually adapt to it and become desensitized and alter your driving to wait for a large gap or take another route because you already know that you can't always rely on it doing what you want when you mash the pedal. The 6L80s kill themselves quickly for those that do a lot of city driving.

I’ve learned to keep it in manual mode, and use the button to downshift quickly. That also helps to keep it from hunting gears so much.

 

[Fless]

It rides BEAUTIFUL. But it's def 1-2" higher sitting though. The whole truck is now exactly level. If they don't "set down" i'm going to do the strut under the arm "drop" with the grade 8-9 bolts so it will match my rear 2" drop plans. I already did a dry one on one side to see how it would sit. Home Depot was wiped out of grade 8 nuts so I have to wait and order them on line and will look for the grade 9 anyway. The Ranchco hardware kit @kbuskill posted ways back in this thread is now obsolete or I would def go with that.

Leveling kit to lower?

Hi all, Wanted to get some thoughts on using this leveling kit, flipped to the bottom of the arm, to lower my Tahoe instead. I would probably opt for the 1" "level" as you will be moving down 1/2" or so just by flipping the strut mount to the underside. Thoughts? I would use quality grade 10...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Not a peep.



1A Auto.

McMaster-Carr has deez nutz. Grade 9 nuts: https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/fastener-strength-grade-class~grade-9/

 

[89Suburban]

Stay true to your redneck fashion and yeet that mofo over some whoops. That'll settle them new coils.

How's this for redneck? Doing the rear shocks today from the fender wells. Home made stubby wrench for that bastard to get to top bolt??

 

[89Suburban]

Not too bad under there for a rust belt Hoe.

 

[89Suburban]

Love this angle adaptor for the impact driver. Works good.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I’ve learned to keep it in manual mode, and use the button to downshift quickly. That also helps to keep it from hunting gears so much.

I almost exclusively drive in manual mode, although I do get worse mileage like that... It's always in the gear that I need, and a lot more fun.

 

[Geotrash]

Replaced the power steering pressure hose in the 2007 this afternoon. The old one was leaking bad enough to leave a perpetually wet patch on the frame crossmember beneath it, and the reservoir needed topping up every few weeks. $55 at Autozone plus a little more than a half a quart of fluid, and I’m back in business.

One of the best things about these trucks is how widely available parts for them are.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Replaced the power steering pressure hose in the 2007 this afternoon. The old one was leaking bad enough to leave a perpetually wet patch on the frame crossmember beneath it, and the reservoir needed topping up every few weeks. $55 at Autozone plus a little more than a half a quart of fluid, and I’m back in business.

One of the best things about these trucks is how widely available parts for them are.

View attachment 374317
View attachment 374318

I need to replace that hose on mine. It's not leaking, but it's rusty as hell, especially behind the pump. Actually, it my be seeping a bit, because the metal tubing behind the pump is wet.



I'm guessing this is the correct hose?

 

[justchecking]

How's this for redneck? Doing the rear shocks today from the fender wells. Home made stubby wrench for that bastard to get to top bolt??

I like it! I would make one to go with my top side creeper but I already disassembled it.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Hmm, I don't recall having any real problems or need for specialty tools when I did my rear shocks

 

[Geotrash]

I need to replace that hose on mine. It's not leaking, but it's rusty as hell, especially behind the pump. Actually, it my be seeping a bit, because the metal tubing behind the pump is wet.

View attachment 374327

I'm guessing this is the correct hose?

View attachment 374333

No sir. This one. I saw the GM ones on rock auto as well, and both of them are erroneous or for another spot in the power steering system. The one in the image below is the one you want.

 

[Sparksalot]

Hmm, I don't recall having any real problems or need for specialty tools when I did my rear shocks

I didn’t, but wish I’d had that little stubby.

 

[randeez]

I didn’t, but wish I’d had that little stubby.

I think I used like 20" of extensions, but also spare isn't under mine anymore

 

[gooffeyguy]

No sir. This one. I saw the GM ones on rock auto as well, and both of them are erroneous or for another spot in the power steering system. The one in the image below is the one you want.

View attachment 374340

Sweet, even cheaper!

 

[Fubar0715]

You got your game plan on? You have those headlights out before? Know some tricks. Unbolt the front inner fenders, pop out the bumper sides from the body. use a thumb drive ratchet for the bottom 10MM bolts. All you have to do is loosen them, not remove them. The mounting tabs are slotted so it will slide out.

You can use painters tape on top of the bumper if you are worried about scratching it. Then the top 2 bolts. Massage it out. Been a while since I did it so I could be missing a step. Removing the whole bumper is overkill for this project imho.

Honey do list got in the way of tackling the headlight swap. I guess it will be an after work thing now with Beer...Added bonus, garage door safety sensor are acting a fool!

 

[iamdub]

It rides BEAUTIFUL. But it's def 1-2" higher sitting though. The whole truck is now exactly level. If they don't "set down" i'm going to do the strut under the arm "drop" with the grade 8-9 bolts so it will match my rear 2" drop plans. I already did a dry one on one side to see how it would sit. Home Depot was wiped out of grade 8 nuts so I have to wait and order them on line and will look for the grade 9 anyway. The Ranchco hardware kit @kbuskill posted ways back in this thread is now obsolete or I would def go with that.

Leveling kit to lower?

Hi all, Wanted to get some thoughts on using this leveling kit, flipped to the bottom of the arm, to lower my Tahoe instead. I would probably opt for the 1" "level" as you will be moving down 1/2" or so just by flipping the strut mount to the underside. Thoughts? I would use quality grade 10...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

I actually have that bolt kit. Bought it to lower a guy's Tahoe then he ghosted me. It's just the bolts without the spacers, so it'd be less than a 2" drop. I had to call RC directly to order them.

 

[iamdub]

I’ve learned to keep it in manual mode, and use the button to downshift quickly. That also helps to keep it from hunting gears so much.

Yes! My first work van with my current company was a 2013 Express 2500 (this was in 2013- new van). During my orientation/training in Indiana, we had to drive a predetermined route to a fill up at a gas station with the safety manager riding shotgun. Already knowing the trans issues, and seeing the hills and city traffic, I instinctively shifted to "M". The power monger safety manager said to leave it in Drive and let the van do the work. Fine. But, he couldn't watch me after I left there to bring it home to LA. He later told me that, within the first year, he had to have the transmissions replaced in 8 of those 15 new vans. Most were from techs that serviced major cities/urban areas. I kept mine in "M" any time I was off the highway. Block to block, I just let that 6.0 sing. I never so much as replaced the fluid in that trans when it finally gave up at around 233K miles. It never indicated it was dying until its literal final hours. Never a problem from the engine or anything else on that van other than a hub bearing somewhere around 200K.

My next van was a 2016 Transit with a V-6. Manually shifted that one cuz all it was programmed to do was get to the highest gear ASAP. That Duratec V-6 was made to zing with a 7,000 RPM redline, so I used every bit of that for over 250K miles. My current one is a 2020 Transit. Now I have 10 speeds to manually shift through.

 

[Doubeleive]

I’ve learned to keep it in manual mode, and use the button to downshift quickly. That also helps to keep it from hunting gears so much.

if you doing under 50 keep it in 3rd, it's fun around town.

 

[PG01]

if you doing under 50 keep it in 3rd, it's fun around town.

Lol

 

[Doubeleive]

Lol

welcome back