What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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dkad260

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Parts for transfer case rebuild came in. I went with the kit from Rigid Axle and also added 2 more bushings. The kit came with the 4 bearings, seals, chain, adapter plate gasket, and rear output shaft bushing (19168733), I added the input shaft bushing (19132802) and the rear extension housing bushing (19168732).

I'll include the parts breakdown with pics once I get started on this, will likely get a thread on it.

BW 4485-9.jpg
 

mikez71

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Walked out to a flat tire..
Was planning to swap a spare on, didn't feel like dragging the floor jack out so...

IMG_0767.jpeg


It WAS flat.. guess I needed to check it little sooner... or put some wood down. engage PARKING BRAKE!
Will also jack from UNDER AXLE! next time I'm doing rear wheels.. Jack was fully extended there.
Jack is bent, no longer trust this jack after what I did to it.

Looking for an older landcruiser bottle jack I have somewhere to carry instead..
I'll need two tool kits, but the landcruiser kit has more stuff like screwdriver, pliers and sparkplug wrench.
And the jack seemed heavier duty.. if I could just find where I put it..

IMG_0768.jpeg

Then I found the screw, you can see it in the jack photo down low, hard to see when tire was flat on ground.
I thought I heard a 'pong' sound yesterday while driving..
I thought about plugging it on the truck, but decided to swap my e rated 17's on instead.

I am going to harbor freight to buy their offroad jack tomorrow!
Regular floor jack too heavy and doesnt roll over small rocks, causing slippage at cup while jacking.
 
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kbuskill

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Swapping to Moog coils and Bilstein 5100s as we speak. Has anyone ever noticed that the upper rear coil bucket looks strut ready?
It isn't strut ready, it is air bag ready.

The stock air bags from the Trailblazer SS twist and lock into place.

You can run them stand alone with a Shrader valve, kind of like the old school air shocks, or you can hook them up to the factory auto leveling compressor with little effort.

20210122_144557.jpg
20210122_144705.jpg

The adapter shown on the end of the line converts the 5/32" hose of the air bag over to the 1/8" line on the factory compressor.

These bags are good for about a 4" drop in the rear and ride nice with the proper shocks. If you install a dump on them they will sit the frame on the axle.

I know that is more info than you probably wanted but figured I would share just in case.
 

jeremiahm

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It isn't strut ready, it is air bag ready.

The stock air bags from the Trailblazer SS twist and lock into place.

You can run them stand alone with a Shrader valve, kind of like the old school air shocks, or you can hook them up to the factory auto leveling compressor with little effort.

View attachment 472217View attachment 472218
The adapter shown on the end of the line converts the 5/32" hose of the air bag over to the 1/8" line on the factory compressor.

These bags are good for about a 4" drop in the rear and ride nice with the proper shocks. If you install a dump on them they will sit the frame on the axle.

I know that is more info than you probably wanted but figured I would share just in case.
@kbuskill thanks for the rundown! More information is always appreciated. Truck rides a thousand times better with the coils and shocks. Now I just need to do bump stops and all the rear suspension will have been replaced.
 

89Suburban

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It isn't strut ready, it is air bag ready.

The stock air bags from the Trailblazer SS twist and lock into place.

You can run them stand alone with a Shrader valve, kind of like the old school air shocks, or you can hook them up to the factory auto leveling compressor with little effort.

View attachment 472217View attachment 472218
The adapter shown on the end of the line converts the 5/32" hose of the air bag over to the 1/8" line on the factory compressor.

These bags are good for about a 4" drop in the rear and ride nice with the proper shocks. If you install a dump on them they will sit the frame on the axle.

I know that is more info than you probably wanted but figured I would share just in case.
I did not need to know this. Now I have an inkling. . .
 

mikez71

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Landcruiser LX470 jack compared to tahoe. Pretty much the same height fully extended. lx470 jack looks longer, but the camera angle is off.
However with the little saddle extension, the toyota jack has another 1" or so fully extended and it has a longer base tube.
IMG_0769.jpeg


Accidentally swapped places in second pic.
IMG_0772.jpeg


Toyota middle tube is thicker than GM's, but has a groove cut into it.
No telling, but the Toyota jack has a little less play and my impression is probably a tiny bit more durable.
IMG_0770.jpeg


Unfortunately the jack handle sections won't interchange. They're close, but also toyota has a set screw that won't fit through the hoist access hole.
IMG_0777.jpeg

I like having the extra tools. screwdriver, open end wrenches, plug wrench, pliers, hubcap prybar, lug wrench, jack saddle extension.
 
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Sir_Hiro

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Did the second oil change under my ownership. Finished Undercoating the front half while in the air. Ofc I took pics on snap but didnt save them.

However little fun tidbit. The company I work for American Axle forged the 4 bolt flanges for the rear end. And if you have a 2017+ Its possible I ran that part
1025.jpg
lol.

They changed to a Birdhouse Design for all light duty and heavy duty in 2020 I wanna say. Which we also forge inhouse.
 

89Suburban

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I broke one of the terminals on a spark plug wire. Didn't know that was a thing...

Guess I'm buying a new set of wires.
VERY common on these rigs in my experience. Also very aggravating. Even using dielectric grease on the boot. The damn terminal end does not want to let go of the plug tip.
 

89Suburban

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Got PA state inspection and emission test passed today. WITH the tune so that is a nice weight off the shoulders. Now i can officially list my Range device fo sale.
 

91RS

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VERY common on these rigs in my experience. Also very aggravating. Even using dielectric grease on the boot. The damn terminal end does not want to let go of the plug tip.
You have to twist the wire to break the seal before trying to pull it off the spark plug.
 
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