Useless Information

[swathdiver]

From This To That!

Got a call that a friend had broken down on the way home from fishing. Tow truck was coming for his truck but needed to get the boat home. All the tow gear was already in the Yukon so it was just a matter of loading up and making the 45 minute drive to help our wayward friends. The Ford had...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

The above link references the Yukon's activities on Friday. She was unexpectedly called up to tow a boat home and hours later went drag racing. Fun stuff!

 

[swathdiver]

Floor mats are 5 years old and a bit worn. They are GM Accessory carpeted mats and have these little fasteners that secure to the carpet and allow the mat to click into that and hold them in place. The inside fastener on the passenger side could not be installed because there is a computer module under the carpet directly underneath where it would go.

Well, there's few left in inventory and I bought a new set for the front, the rears still are great.

Any ideas on how to secure these to the carpet better?

 

[iamdub]

Floor mats are 5 years old and a bit worn. They are GM Accessory carpeted mats and have these little fasteners that secure to the carpet and allow the mat to click into that and hold them in place. The inside fastener on the passenger side could not be installed because there is a computer module under the carpet directly underneath where it would go.

Well, there's few left in inventory and I bought a new set for the front, the rears still are great.

Any ideas on how to secure these to the carpet better?

View attachment 368552

These seem to be the bee's nuts when it comes to floor mats: https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Klaw-Anti-Slip-Retainers-Without/dp/B0719QWB7B?th=1

 

[George B]

Floor mats are 5 years old and a bit worn. They are GM Accessory carpeted mats and have these little fasteners that secure to the carpet and allow the mat to click into that and hold them in place. The inside fastener on the passenger side could not be installed because there is a computer module under the carpet directly underneath where it would go.

Well, there's few left in inventory and I bought a new set for the front, the rears still are great.

Any ideas on how to secure these to the carpet better?

View attachment 368552

What do the retainers look like?

 

[swathdiver]

These seem to be the bee's nuts when it comes to floor mats: https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Klaw-Anti-Slip-Retainers-Without/dp/B0719QWB7B?th=1

My poor imagination can't think of how to integrate them at present!

What do the retainers look like?

The fasteners in the top photo go into the carpet and the floor mats snap into them. There are holes for these in the carpet already from the last set. Can't really move them around and use the holes in the floor mat as they would then not fit the well proper.



This all may be moot, I just remembered that my wife pushes off of the floor to help get herself situated in the seats, this is what caused the fasteners to fail before. I do it to a lesser extent, or did. Well, been sick again and thinking is not so clear.

 

[George B]

My poor imagination can't think of how to integrate them at present!



The fasteners in the top photo go into the carpet and the floor mats snap into them. There are holes for these in the carpet already from the last set. Can't really move them around and use the holes in the floor mat as they would then not fit the well proper.

View attachment 368582View attachment 368583View attachment 368584

This all may be moot, I just remembered that my wife pushes off of the floor to help get herself situated in the seats, this is what caused the fasteners to fail before. I do it to a lesser extent, or did. Well, been sick again and thinking is not so clear.

All I can think of is to cut the carpet screw part off and put 4, 1/8” holes through the keepers so you can use 1/8” zip ties through them and the carpet.

 

[iamdub]

Two 3/4"-1" wide pieces of 1/16" flat stock (16 gauge), bent to conform to the floorboard, bolted under each of the front two seat studs with whatever's needed to attach the mats to it (low-profile hooks, carriage head bolts with low-profile nuts, etc.) on the other end.

 

[swathdiver]

All I can think of is to cut the carpet screw part off and put 4, 1/8” holes through the keepers so you can use 1/8” zip ties through them and the carpet.

Two 3/4"-1" wide pieces of 1/16" flat stock (16 gauge), bent to conform to the floorboard, bolted under each of the front to seat studs with whatever's needed to attach the mats to it (low-profile hooks, carriage head bolts with low-profile nuts, etc.)

Both great ideas! I might need something that can make them easily removable for vacuuming and shampooing, even if I'm not around to do it someday. Maybe I can incorporate your ideas with those fasteners Chris linked to and the stock clips or areas in the mats.

 

[iamdub]

Both great ideas! I might need something that can make them easily removable for vacuuming and shampooing, even if I'm not around to do it someday. Maybe I can incorporate your ideas with those fasteners Chris linked to and the stock clips or areas in the mats.

I just saw my computer (again) changed "two" to "to". Edited to clarify and satisfy OCD.

 

[swathdiver]

Over the last month or so the navigation radio would kinda go blank for a second and then resume playing a CD and or the route selected would resume. The other day the whole thing went blank, the splash screen came on and then resumed playing the cd and the navigation route resumed without any input from me.

There was an over voltage code for the display once when the battery was run down, I didn't pull codes after the last event but will in the next day or so. Anyone ever experience this?

 

[George B]

Over the last month or so the navigation radio would kind of go blank for a second and then resume playing a CD and or the route selected would resume. The other day the whole thing went blank, the splash screen came on and then resumed playing the cd and the navigation route resumed without any input from me.

There was an over voltage code for the display once when the battery was run down, I didn't pull codes after the last event but will in the next day or so. Anyone ever experience this?

I have but it was related to a ground issue that I resolved with a battery cable upgrade you can find on post 123. Mine would do that when the traction control would actuate.
Check the ground at the front right frame horn. The cooling fans ground there too. Maybe needs cleaned.

 

[swathdiver]

Fun with Excel and numbers...

On FuelEconomy.Gov, the fuel mileage testing establishes 21.2 MPH or lower as 100% City driving and 48.3 MPH and higher as 100% Highway driving. So using those figures, I was able to make a chart with percentages and then created a formula that would read it based upon the average speed of that tank of gas to establish what the ratio of city to highway driving was done.

Over the years there would be several similar average speeds for a tank of fuel but wildly different gas mileages and I did not know how to explain it. This information now gives me a better idea of how the truck was used during that tank of fuel.

The data below was from our trip to Ocala. At the end of the run the average speed was 46.3 miles an hour which is 92% of 48.3, the number established by the EPA for highway driving. I do not believe it is entirely accurate however. On this run my wife sat in the car for about an hour while we were inside the museum and then I sat in the car with my wife while the kids ran into a store to pick some things up. There was also 15 minutes at a rest stop. I'm guessing idle time was about 90 minutes compared with 3/4 of an hour doing the math. The day before this trip, my wife has also used the truck for errands; she idles away yakking on the phone and runs it like a scalded dog when going from A to B. I say this because the instant economy was 21 mpg and higher on the way up, the average climbing into the 18s when we arrived on station and was still in the 15s after idling in the museum parking lot and climbed back to 17 mpg by the time the truck was refueled.

Anyhow, what do you think? Is there a way to possibly make this more accurate by the data provided by the DIC?

 

[iamdub]

Fun with Excel and numbers...

On FuelEconomy.Gov, the fuel mileage testing establishes 21.2 MPH or lower as 100% City driving and 48.3 MPH and higher as 100% Highway driving. So using those figures, I was able to make a chart with percentages and then created a formula that would read it based upon the average speed of that tank of gas to establish what the ratio of city to highway driving was done.

Over the years there would be several similar average speeds for a tank of fuel but wildly different gas mileages and I did not know how to explain it. This information now gives me a better idea of how the truck was used during that tank of fuel.

The data below was from our trip to Ocala. At the end of the run the average speed was 46.3 miles an hour which is 92% of 48.3, the number established by the EPA for highway driving. I do not believe it is entirely accurate however. On this run my wife sat in the car for about an hour while we were inside the museum and then I sat in the car with my wife while the kids ran into a store to pick some things up. There was also 15 minutes at a rest stop. I'm guessing idle time was about 90 minutes compared with 3/4 of an hour doing the math. The day before this trip, my wife has also used the truck for errands; she idles away yakking on the phone and runs it like a scalded dog when going from A to B. I say this because the instant economy was 21 mpg and higher on the way up, the average climbing into the 18s when we arrived on station and was still in the 15s after idling in the museum parking lot and climbed back to 17 mpg by the time the truck was refueled.


View attachment 371597

Anyhow, what do you think? Is there a way to possibly make this more accurate by the data provided by the DIC?

Wait... is this math?

I'm sure I'm not alone when I say I come to this thread to look up to your intelligence and fascinating data. You can't be asking down to us!

 

[swathdiver]

Just finished tackling the Recirculation Actuator.

Wasn't a bad job, the longest part was rounding up the tools!

10mm wrench to disconnect the battery.
7mm socket to disconnect the passenger side ac vent.
10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts securing the airbag in place.
5.5mm socket to remove the 2 screws securing the actuator

Used small trim tools to pry off the instrument panel center trim and to help release the cover for the airbag on the dash.
Used a small flat blade screwdriver to remove the safety tab on the airbag connector and to help remove the connector on the actuator.

Looking down into the squirrel cage (yellow in color) I saw a piece of plastic in there that looked out of place. Dabbed a little RTV on the magnetic tip and fished it out. Not exactly sure where it came from.

Fired up the car and the Tech-2 and observed the all the actuators. This one was now running spot on. The Mode for the front and rear are still moving a little. Performed a ReCalibration and cycled the ignition a couple of times. This time the Passenger side actuator threw two codes! That's the only one to not have thrown a code until today! Of course, I have no spares and buttoned everything back up. Another is on the way.

As for the dashboard, it is still crack free. The bolt on the bracket (mine is 7mm) was snug but not tight allowing movement! Thanks to whoever did that! That's the key to keep the dashboards from cracking in that area I'm told.

As usual my phone was on the rear bumper and no photos were taken, no kids were around, they heard Dad was doing this today and scattered.

 

[justchecking]

Fun with Excel and numbers...

... the average speed was 46.3 miles an hour ...

Does your DIC give you avg miles per hour in addition to avg fuel economy?

 

[swathdiver]

Does your DIC give you avg miles per hour in addition to avg fuel economy?

No, that's hand calculated. Both generations of our Pontiac Montanas did though. Not sure why GM didn't include that simple calculation for these.

 

[gpracer1]

Just finished tackling the Recirculation Actuator.

Wasn't a bad job, the longest part was rounding up the tools!

10mm wrench to disconnect the battery.
7mm socket to disconnect the passenger side ac vent.
10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts securing the airbag in place.
5.5mm socket to remove the 2 screws securing the actuator

Used small trim tools to pry off the instrument panel center trim and to help release the cover for the airbag on the dash.
Used a small flat blade screwdriver to remove the safety tab on the airbag connector and to help remove the connector on the actuator.

Looking down into the squirrel cage (yellow in color) I saw a piece of plastic in there that looked out of place. Dabbed a little RTV on the magnetic tip and fished it out. Not exactly sure where it came from.

Fired up the car and the Tech-2 and observed the all the actuators. This one was now running spot on. The Mode for the front and rear are still moving a little. Performed a ReCalibration and cycled the ignition a couple of times. This time the Passenger side actuator threw two codes! That's the only one to not have thrown a code until today! Of course, I have no spares and buttoned everything back up. Another is on the way.

As for the dashboard, it is still crack free. The bolt on the bracket (mine is 7mm) was snug but not tight allowing movement! Thanks to whoever did that! That's the key to keep the dashboards from cracking in that area I'm told.

As usual my phone was on the rear bumper and no photos were taken, no kids were around, they heard Dad was doing this today and scattered.

Funny because I just ordered one and need to put it in this weekend. Not as cold as before. Funny thing is I moved it open and closed with the T2 and it was showing a step function as it moved (I was using the graph function) it looked like a staircase.... then I watched it physically move the door and the door would move a 1/4 inch then stop, then 1/4 inch, etc etc till it stopped. I am assuming there are a few teeth missing at the point when closed contact is made, so it isnt tight anymore and leaking in hot phx 115 air.

 

[justchecking]

No, that's hand calculated. Both generations of our Pontiac Montanas did though. Not sure why GM didn't include that simple calculation for these.

Yes I was just looking for that again in the DIC. I think my avg fuel economy towing the camper has gone from 8.1mpg last year to 8.8 mpg this year. Differences from last year to this year are tow tune with 93 octane, new maf, new o2 sensors. The current tune just shifts perfectly when it should. Conversely I drove 760 miles to Michigan and back and didn’t get as good mpg as I did on the North Carolina trip (both no camper). The difference between the two trips were on the MI trip I forgot and left it in AWD and drove more miles at 80mph in northern Indiana and MI. If I had avg mph I could theorize more. But I already should just stop over thinking it. Lol.

 

[swathdiver]

Funny because I just ordered one and need to put it in this weekend. Not as cold as before. Funny thing is I moved it open and closed with the T2 and it was showing a step function as it moved (I was using the graph function) it looked like a staircase.... then I watched it physically move the door and the door would move a 1/4 inch then stop, then 1/4 inch, etc etc till it stopped. I am assuming there are a few teeth missing at the point when closed contact is made, so it isnt tight anymore and leaking in hot phx 115 air.

Does your car have the screen material over the grates? Mine does not so I suspect someone has been in there before. I'll be taking it apart again the same way to do the passenger actuator, I think I'll leave the airbag out and fire up the Tech-2 and do what you did and watch the door work. I know my mode actuator needs replacing too and wonder how much air is bled off unnecessarily.

Yes I was just looking for that again in the DIC. I think my avg fuel economy towing the camper has gone from 8.1mpg last year to 8.8 mpg this year. Differences from last year to this year are tow tune with 93 octane, new maf, new o2 sensors. The current tune just shifts perfectly when it should. Conversely I drove 760 miles to Michigan and back and didn’t get as good mpg as I did on the North Carolina trip (both no camper). The difference between the two trips were on the MI trip I forgot and left it in AWD and drove more miles at 80mph in northern Indiana and MI. If I had avg mph I could theorize more. But I already should just stop over thinking it. Lol.

It's tough to compare as so many external factors also affect gas mileage. I watched my instant economy drop 3 mpgs driving into a storm with water on the road. Different road surface conditions have knocked off an mpg or so before while fresh new road has increased it some. Then there's wind and traffic and imperceptible grades, a million reasons!

 

[gpracer1]

Yes mine has the screen