Aluminum / XFE NNBS Front Suspension Rebuild

[91RS]

That is why I said aftermarket replacement parts, I meant parts that are just meant to be “equal” to the OEM part.

They continued to use the control arms for these trucks on the K2 trucks, so the OEM ones will be available for some time. They are the same parts.

 

[Doubeleive]

I bought these "oem" hubs for the awd denali about 4 years ago, they are genuine gm, made by iljin korea
currently have about 30k on them and they are fine
if you zoom in on the rockauto photo you can see it stamped iljin korea, same as mine

More Information for GM GENUINE 84856654

 

[Doubeleive]

just did upper/lower/inner/outer all oem refresh it was due @180k
still want to do the strut-shock but those are $323 each, gonna have to wait a few months on those
dealer quoted me a price of like $1000+ each on the lower control arms !!!!, uppers they said like $500 each no......thanks
got them off amazon OEM from world parts direct about $300 each roughly one was $285, the other had a 3 week shipping delay and now that I think about it I ended up ordering it off rockauto at $323. for the cast iron arms
uppers were less one was $162, the other was $183
tie rods were $68 each for the inner and $93 each for the outer.
tie rods and upper control arm were a few dollars less on rockauto, but I have a business amazon account so no tax and free shipping
did them on saturday, i'm sore all now that was a work out lol

 

[91RS]

I will say, the front shocks made the largest difference of everything I replaced. I was under the impression auto/mag ride shocks didn’t “wear out” like passive shocks and were “fine” as long as they weren’t leaking. I never replaced the front mag rides on my 13 because they were bone dry. It drove so bad on our last trip to Florida, I was looking at used Navigators on Auto Trader every time we stopped on the way home. I decided as a Hail Mary, I’d replace the front shocks with new (after considering a delete and going with Fox coilovers) since I kept thinking there was absolutely no way they worked as well as new with 194k miles on them. I alap did the aluminum lower control arms that fit the 900 to save weight so I could keep it lowered with the drop knuckles and the updated gel filled steering gear bushings from the horrible riding K2 trucks. It drives significantly better. We haven’t gone on a trip yet but I haven’t been shopping.

 

[petethepug]

Alright, finally. Got some traction on getting the Esky into the Indi shop to get this job done. The wife’s 07 Beetle Vert had it first major expense since 2014.

It got a new OEM a/c comp, a sprinkle of 134 Freon & filter dryer, generic d/s axle, new SAI pipe for smog, coolant reservoir, accessory & a/c belt, 09g 6SP aisen trans, t/c, fluid, oil change & filter and all the labor.

All for the low, low price of $8.8k. The trans was sourced local from AZ and has 2yr on labor and 4 on warranty.

Grade A Remanufactured Automatic Transmission Assembly 400-50153T

Shop for Grade A Remanufactured Automatic Transmission Assembly 400-50153T with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

Bummer I couldn’t use the 20% coupon. Poor tech had to eat labor and parts & fluid on the used trans we planned to use at first. It probably didn’t like sitting for 3 years with old fluid.

The wifey is very happy to have her Barbie car back. Dad’s finally got the Esky going in for the front suspension next week!

 

[kbuskill]

Ordered a new OEM radiator, coolant reservoir and two new front hubs. Pretty sure the petcock on the OEM radiator is the source of the leak but at almost 190k on a likely OEM radiator, it’s due.

Found an interesting article on my preferred mfg for bearings, SKF. Turns out GM got together with them to create a better hub assembly for the 06-09 STS-V. They installed 6 lug hubs on a 4 door passenger car for a few years.

The technology bled over to the Escalade and is now known as a hybrid hub. Apparently it’s now used on the Escalade-V. No better time to replace them then when the front end is apart.

View attachment 450605

RockAuto has em for an unbelievable $139.79 ea.

X-TRACKER - Evolution

How asymmetrical hub bearing units improve high-performance car handling For high-performance cars,maintaining good handling characteristics under all conditions is important to the overall driving experience. SKF engineers provided an award-winning solution through the development of an...

evolution.skf.com

Just FYI, I found the same thing and installed the X-tracker Hybrid hubs on my Burb and ended up having to replace them under warranty at just under 5 years (5 yr warranty) because they were starting to growl.

I should have probably pulled the ABS sensor and filled them with grease before installing the replacements but I was in a hurry.

If/when I have to replace them again, assuming they are out of warranty, I will probably go back with Genuine GM OEM hubs.

 

[petethepug]

Thanks for the solid. I’ll have the Indi cram some grease in em before they go in. In my apprenticeship we were taught to assume no bearing ever comes greased.

The maint logs in machine rooms were your judge & jury.

 

[Scrappycrow]

It's imperative to know what grease base is being used, as many types won't mix. You'd be shortening the lifespan if you use the wrong type.

 

[kbuskill]

It's imperative to know what grease base is being used, as many types won't mix. You'd be shortening the lifespan if you use the wrong type.

Never gave it much thought, I just assumed wheel bearing grease was wheel bearing grease. I usually use Red & Tacky.

 

[mikez71]

pretty sure my xtrackers had a little grease showing.. blue in color iirc..

I also did not add grease...

 

[Scrappycrow]

Never gave it much thought, I just assumed wheel bearing grease was wheel bearing grease. I usually use Red & Tacky.

Here's a compatibility chart from the Lucas site. Red "N" Tacky is calcium sulfonate:

 

[j91z28d1]

I was always taught you don't grease sealed bearings. they have the correct amount when manufacturered and anything more just gets pushed out the seals. but since these fail constantly, probably can't hurt anything.


I ended up going with the oem hub last week after Mikez71 said his made noise. I like the theory but didn't feel like missing with it. I only replaced the one side that went bad. I'll wait on the other side to go bad before changing it out. but listening to all 4 bearings with the mechanic ears 3 sounded perfect, the one buzzed oddly. would have never found it, I even thought it was the drivers side noise. bearing feels perfect in hand.

I am pretty sure I first heard it in a road trip back in December.

 

[petethepug]

I’m gonna call SKF tomorrow.

 

[Noggles]

Slightly off the grease topic, the knuckles for the aluminum arms are different correct? If so, does anyone know how Belltech is able to offer the same drop knuckle for both hybrid and non-hybrid trucks?

 

[j91z28d1]

I bought these "oem" hubs for the awd denali about 4 years ago, they are genuine gm, made by iljin korea
currently have about 30k on them and they are fine
if you zoom in on the rockauto photo you can see it stamped iljin korea, same as mine

More Information for GM GENUINE 84856654

View attachment 452260

huh. I thought forsure my hub would be oem on that side. I haven't tossed it yet, went out and looked. no markings on the flange at all. flipped it over, knocked off some crude and bam.. timkin.

I got it at 135k, guess the oem didn't make it that long. all junk.

 

[kbuskill]

Here's a compatibility chart from the Lucas site. Red "N" Tacky is calcium sulfonate:

View attachment 453533

What do you suppose would happen if you mix incompatible grease???.... Nuclear explosion?... lol

 

[91RS]

Slightly off the grease topic, the knuckles for the aluminum arms are different correct? If so, does anyone know how Belltech is able to offer the same drop knuckle for both hybrid and non-hybrid trucks?

The knuckles are different for the different size ball joints. For some reason, they want a lot more money for the knuckle for the larger joints for the aluminum/stamped steel arms.

 

[Noggles]

The knuckles are different for the different size ball joints. For some reason, they want a lot more money for the knuckle for the larger joints for the aluminum/stamped steel arms.

Interesting. But they are iron correct?

I was wanting to do the aluminum swap to lose the weight and also thought about doing a spindle drop but I will have to rethink either or if the drop knuckles are only iron.

 

[91RS]

Yes. That’s why I didn’t go that route. I figured if I wasn’t going to use the aluminum knuckles, there was no point. The knuckles are the only part that is 100% unsprung weight, I don’t know the math but since the control arms are attached to the frame and the shock, the weight reduction of the lower arm wouldn’t be the full weight savings but partial. I didn’t feel it was worth it unless I raised the truck back to stock height and did the aluminum knuckle.

I did the OEM aluminum arms for the 900 body style with the correct smaller ball joints and left all the other pieces I already had. The aluminum/stamped steel upper arms don’t weigh much different than the iron uppers either. Then I also got new wheels that are lighter and replaced the front shocks with new OEM since they were still original. I feel like it made a pretty significant difference but we haven’t taken any trips yet.

 

[j91z28d1]

What do you suppose would happen if you mix incompatible grease???.... Nuclear explosion?... lol

usually grease has a temp and pressure rating. if they spec a good high end grease and you pump in cheap low spec stuff you just make everything worse.