Aluminum / XFE NNBS Front Suspension Rebuild

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Michael
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It's front-end refresh time. I'm fast approaching 180K miles on our 09 Esky ESV. It has the original everything on the suspension. The front sway bar bushings have been replaced with poly recently because they were ready to disintegrate. While looking around at parts I saw that aluminum upper and lower control arms were an option for 07-14 / NNBS full size SUV. No info really nailed down who, what, why, when and where aluminum was used except little snippets on the interwebs.

@iamdumb did nail it here ...

I think the 4WD and AWD models got the aluminum parts to help offset the additional weight from the front drive components. The XFE (eXtra Fuel Efficiency) models, although 2WD, got them as well for weight reduction. You can't mix-and-match between the setups because the ball joints are a different size and/or taper. You either switch everything (knuckle included) or nothing.

In 09 GM offered the XFE package for 2WD Tahoe that included bits and pieces of aluminum suspension and a spare tire rim. The Hybrid, PPV & SSV also got a bunch of aluminum parts as well as odd ball trims. I'm interested in using both upper and lower control arms made of aluminum because the Esky has boat anchor 22" rims. GM boasts that using all that aluminum on the XFE gives it a 1 MPG increase and takes 32lbs off each side of the front end. I figure that by the time I get the Brembo BBK installed each front corner will have at least 40lbs shaved off.

IN REGARD TO NNBS TRUCKS ...

GM Alum Control Arm.PNG



So, on to the differences in forged & stamped steel as well as aluminum NNBS control arms that have been buried for so long.

* 2016-2017 stamped steel control arms have been recalled by GM for inadequate welds near the control arm bushing that may allow it to separate. Just ditch them.
* The forged steel upper and lower control arms for our 07-14 NNBS SUV are also used on the next Gen 15-20.
* The aluminum upper and lower control arms from select 07-14 NNBS SUV are also used on the next Gen 15-20.
* Both the forged steel and aluminum hubs from select 07-14 NNBS SUV are also used on the next Gen 15-20.
* In 1500 Pickup Trucks 07-13 were always cast steel, 14-16 had all three and 17-18 were always aluminum.
* Aluminum lower control arms can be run on any 07-14 NNBS Tahoe / Yuke / Burb / Esky.
* Only the aluminum upper control arms have a specific ball joint. The stamped steel and aluminum ball joints are not cross compatible.
* Aluminum upper control arms must have aluminum hubs to accommodate the difference in taper of the aluminum specific ball joint.
* The lower aluminum control arms are cast aluminum. The upper aluminum control arms are forged.
* Products in the control arms contain chemicals known to the State of CA to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
* The thread and pitch on all ball joint studs for both aluminum and steel are identical.

As the parts are ordered and arrive, I'll post up the source and pricing. I'm in the parts procurement phase and the work will be carried out by my trusted diesel Indi tech. The Esky is my daily and I'm over stressing out about getting a job done so I can drive the vehicle the next day.

Anyone know if the aluminum control arms have any torque to yield bolts that may be specific to them?
 

BG1988

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It's front-end refresh time. I'm fast approaching 180K miles on our 09 Esky ESV. It has the original everything on the suspension. The front sway bar bushings have been replaced with poly recently because they were ready to disintegrate. While looking around at parts I saw that aluminum upper and lower control arms were an option for 07-14 / NNBS full size SUV. No info really nailed down who, what, why, when and where aluminum was used except little snippets on the interwebs.

@iamdumb did nail it here ...



In 09 GM offered the XFE package for 2WD Tahoe that included bits and pieces of aluminum suspension and a spare tire rim. The Hybrid, PPV & SSV also got a bunch of aluminum parts as well as odd ball trims. I'm interested in using both upper and lower control arms made of aluminum because the Esky has boat anchor 22" rims. GM boasts that using all that aluminum on the XFE gives it a 1 MPG increase and takes 32lbs off each side of the front end. I figure that by the time I get the Brembo BBK installed each front corner will have at least 40lbs shaved off.

IN REGARD TO NNBS TRUCKS ...

View attachment 418997


So, on to the differences in forged & stamped steel as well as aluminum NNBS control arms that have been buried for so long.

* 2016-2017 stamped steel control arms have been recalled by GM for inadequate welds near the control arm bushing that may allow it to separate. Just ditch them.
* The forged steel upper and lower control arms for our 07-14 NNBS SUV are also used on the next Gen 15-20.
* The aluminum upper and lower control arms from select 07-14 NNBS SUV are also used on the next Gen 15-20.
* Both the forged steel and aluminum hubs from select 07-14 NNBS SUV are also used on the next Gen 15-20.
* In 1500 Pickup Trucks 07-13 were always cast steel, 14-16 had all three and 17-18 were always aluminum.
* Aluminum lower control arms can be run on any 07-14 NNBS Tahoe / Yuke / Burb / Esky.
* Only the aluminum upper control arms have a specific ball joint. The stamped steel and aluminum ball joints are not cross compatible.
* Aluminum upper control arms must have aluminum hubs to accommodate the difference in taper of the aluminum specific ball joint.
* The lower aluminum control arms are cast aluminum. The upper aluminum control arms are forged.
* Products in the control arms contain chemicals known to the State of CA to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
* The thread and pitch on all ball joint studs for both aluminum and steel are identical.

As the parts are ordered and arrive, I'll post up the source and pricing. I'm in the parts procurement phase and the work will be carried out by my trusted diesel Indi tech. The Esky is my daily and I'm over stressing out about getting a job done so I can drive the vehicle the next day.

Anyone know if the aluminum control arms have any torque to yield bolts that may be specific to them?
the XFE/hybird uses aluminium rims as well (some had the 20" rim option* )

note the hybird has a lowered suspension
 
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petethepug

petethepug

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The Parts, Pricing as of date and The Vendors. Keep in mind I’m going generic (on the cheap) in some instances …

GM OEM Alum Knuck P/S. New $48.49 shipped off Amazon “save with used” category which was actually a dented box. # 22842315
CDF1F817-FB1C-473C-B56F-1B6B8BDA5638.jpeg



GM OEM Alum Knuck D/S. New $54.03 shipped off Amazon “save with used” category. # 22842314
D1255B52-84A2-41A1-8772-B12E31E8ED23.jpeg



AutoParts Premium brand Control Arm Kit 2 - 2015-2016 Cadillac Escalade ESV Sport Utility 4-Door $104.37 shipped free for the set from Parts Geek # 129811-02731127
A035DAE2-81ED-4134-B668-8DE621D2E767.jpeg



Cadillac Escalade Chevy Tahoe GMC Yukon XL Front D/S & P/S Lower Control Arm (OEM # 25788111 & 25788110) $192.95 for the set. Shipped free from Parts Geek. Replacement brand # 498-422.

7E7547CA-BB40-466E-B009-061FD3718D16.jpeg

I couldn't resist putting that in there.

that warning label is on ALL packaging of EVERYTHING in CA..

It's lowered but I assume it's the springs. I'll be on the slow road to looking for an aluminum rim to get my .000099999 more mpg.

the XFE/hybird uses aluminium rims as well (some had the 20" rim option* )

note the hybird has a lowered suspension
 
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Scrappycrow

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You can't mix-and-match between the setups because the ball joints are a different size and/or taper.

"Can't" unless you are willing to: 1) ream the taper in the knuckle or 2) use ball joint taper sleeves. Which one to choose will depend on the nature of the mismatch. Of course, one must know the taper values of the parts and the dimensional limits to do this.

That being said, having the aluminum knuckles would be preferable.
 
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petethepug

petethepug

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Forgot to mention the little fact GM concealed all these years. The aluminum hubs match the taper of the aluminum UCA (but not the steel)

The aluminum hubs have the same taper as both aluminum or steel LCA.

The odd ducks are the aluminum UCA and the aluminum hub/knuckle.
 

Scrappycrow

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The aluminum hubs match the taper of the aluminum UCA (but not the steel)

The aluminum hubs have the same taper as both aluminum or steel LCA.
You didn't specifically state that, but it's readily inferred by your first post, especially the 8th bullet point:
Aluminum upper control arms must have aluminum hubs to accommodate the difference in taper of the aluminum specific ball joint.
If there's anything that might confuse anyone, it's the phrasing "aluminum steel" that's in the graphic twice.
 

iamdub

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"Can't" unless you are willing to: 1) ream the taper in the knuckle or 2) use ball joint taper sleeves. Which one to choose will depend on the nature of the mismatch. Of course, one must know the taper values of the parts and the dimensional limits to do this.

That being said, having the aluminum knuckles would be preferable.


Do you know or know where I could find the taper specs of the ball joint stud in the aluminum upper control arm and in the steel knuckle? I have some nearly-new aluminum arms from a '21 Sierra I'd like to swap to my '08. It's not worth it to me to get aluminum knuckles, especially since I'd have to get aftermarket drop knuckles. I have no problem with reaming my steel ones.
 

BG1988

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I couldn't resist putting that in there.



It's lowered but I assume it's the springs. I'll be on the slow road to looking for an aluminum rim to get my .000099999 more mpg.
less rotational mass..
 

Scrappycrow

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Do you know or know where I could find the taper specs of the ball joint stud in the aluminum upper control arm and in the steel knuckle? I have some nearly-new aluminum arms from a '21 Sierra I'd like to swap to my '08. It's not worth it to me to get aluminum knuckles, especially since I'd have to get aftermarket drop knuckles. I have no problem with reaming my steel ones.
If the ball joints were the replaceable type, it'd be relatively easy to look up, as those specs are usually listed, but I have never found them for integrated "bespoke" components.

You can determine the taper via taper gauges or measuring:




If you're going this route, you MUST have a proper setup for doing so. I speak from experience, unfortunately (I damaged a steering arm on my '57 Chevy). To change the taper (not just "clean up" an iffy bore) you'll need to set up a rigid jig and use a drill press that has variable speed down into double-digit RPM, and use machining fluid such as Tap Magic (NOT WD-40 or 3-in-1, etc.). I actually modified my drill press to incorporate a 3-phase motor and VFD (variable-frequency drive) to do this. If this isn't for you, have a machine shop take care of it.
 

iamdub

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If the ball joints were the replaceable type, it'd be relatively easy to look up, as those specs are usually listed, but I have never found them for integrated "bespoke" components.

You can determine the taper via taper gauges or measuring:




If you're going this route, you MUST have a proper setup for doing so. I speak from experience, unfortunately (I damaged a steering arm on my '57 Chevy). To change the taper (not just "clean up" an iffy bore) you'll need to set up a rigid jig and use a drill press that has variable speed down into double-digit RPM, and use machining fluid such as Tap Magic (NOT WD-40 or 3-in-1, etc.). I actually modified my drill press to incorporate a 3-phase motor and VFD (variable-frequency drive) to do this. If this isn't for you, have a machine shop take care of it.


I'm usually one to modify or make my own tooling for a one-time-use endeavor. But I don't wanna risk messing up my knuckles. Not for something like this. I'll see what I can get my machine shop to do this for to determine if it's even worth it. Thanks for the excellent info!
 
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petethepug

petethepug

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I knew after I started the 1st post it was going to be a living update.

I noticed the aluminum steel after I posted the pic but left it. Seems to add a look into how well they buried the XFE concept GM was forced to roll out for staying competitive with Ford’s new aluminum steel metal trucks:rocking:

I was looking for the photo someone posted of their NNBS truck that was factory with aluminum UCA & LCA but couldn’t find it.
 
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petethepug

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Is this going to be a problem? I got this aluminum hub from Amazon bargain basket that has two blems on the mating surface. Is it a critical or non critical area? It can catch my thumb nail but also easily be buffed smooth. Whatcha think?

Hub Alum.JPG
 

iamdub

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Is this going to be a problem? I got this aluminum hub from Amazon bargain basket that has two blems on the mating surface. Is it a critical or non critical area? It can catch my thumb nail but also easily be buffed smooth. Whatcha think?

View attachment 419431


That's a knuckle. The hub bolts to that knuckle. Those blems below the three bolt holes are 100% harmless. Nothing mates to that surface. I'd file down the dings on the mating surface where the hub goes, though. In this pic, the one at the top right halfway between the bolt holes and the ones to the left of the lower right hole. Plus any others that might be out of the picture, at the top.
 

randeez

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Is this going to be a problem? I got this aluminum hub from Amazon bargain basket that has two blems on the mating surface. Is it a critical or non critical area? It can catch my thumb nail but also easily be buffed smooth. Whatcha think?

View attachment 419431
Nothing mates there, the wheel bearing assembly will line up with the 3 holes and stand off the knuckle
 

Foggy

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I've been following this post on the aluminum vs steel control arms and the
knuckles...
I looked at the parts online .... but holy crap !!!
The aluminum control arms are double to triple the price of my steel OE parts
Would like to get rid of weight for all the right reasons, but I don't know
if the initial investment is worth it $$$
 

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