2011 Tahoe/Bad engine ticking, 153k miles

[wsteele]

Is there a way to upload a quick video? I just tried a 10 sec video and it was denied (too large) Definitely sounds like a mechanical tic, with a mechanical popping a few times. It sounds the same on both sides of the engine.

If a lifter or two broke, How bad ($$) of a repair do you folks think it is? Just lifters, or the whole enchilada? IE cam, lifters, push rods, and so on....

I am at 153k miles

On the costs, if it is a lifter, it all depends on what lifter failed and how it failed.

A single failed AFM lifter replacement (if the cam is OK) could be pretty cheap. If a lifter failed in a different way, it likely would take the cam with it, meaning quite a bit bigger job. In addition, if it is a lifter failure, you likely will be faced with the decision to do everything that should be done while you are in there. If you aren't going to do whatever needs doing yourself, and it is a lifter, I definitely would set aside that stimulus check Nancy is about to send you.

 

[iamdub]

Sounds like it's internal and not an exhaust leak. Don't run it any more and it might be very salvageable with new lifter(s) or an AFM delete, since an AFM lifter s likely what collapsed.

 

[NotQuiteanSS]

Sounds like it's internal and not an exhaust leak. Don't run it any more and it might be very salvageable with new lifter(s) or an AFM delete, since an AFM lifter s likely what collapsed.

What is an AFM lifter / delete?

 

[Rocket Man]

What is an AFM lifter / delete?

Active Fuel Management- it’s when the engine goes into 4 cyl mode to save on fuel. There was a lot of problems with the system until GM made some improvements. Lost if people have it turned off either through a device that plugs into the OBD port like a Range device or through a tune although that leaves the hardware in the engine. The safest way is to delete the components which you might want to do since it looks like you’ll have to tear the heads off to fix this so you’ll either have to replace some of it or delete it.

 

[trailblazer]

Odd. That sounds like my old Suburban 2500:

It was determined to be a spun bearing.

 

[wsteele]

Odd. That sounds like my old Suburban 2500:

It was determined to be a spun bearing.

It does sound the same, sans the popping.

 

[TxVet33]

Check your exhaust bolts

 

[Ron Leonard]

My 2010 sounded same way , I pulled valve covers and didn't see anything, upon idling for 5 mins looking for issues it dropped a valve and I found the spring that was cracked down near bottom of spring first and then broke in middle while running. I would look very close at springs while baring over by hand.

If lifter collapse all you should hear is clattering, the popping is your valve is NOT seating fully.

 

[wsteele]

My 2010 sounded same way , I pulled valve covers and didn't see anything, upon idling for 5 mins looking for issues it dropped a valve and I found the spring that was cracked down near bottom of spring first and then broke in middle while running. I would look very close at springs while baring over by hand.

If lifter collapse all you should hear is clattering, the popping is your valve is NOT seating fully.

Did you get a code/CEL?

 

[Ron Leonard]

No it was a SSV that I bought at auction and had sat for a year and a half. No codes as it had cleared ecm being dead

I winched on trailer bought new battery and drove of trailer and pulled valve covers and it only ran 5 mins before spring broke dropping the valve.

I couldn't see the broken part of spring it was on rear cylinder, I should have barred it over and checked each spring, It had 15800 on it.

 

[Rocket Man]

No it was a SSV that I bought at auction and had sat for a year and a half. No codes as it had cleared ecm being dead

I winched on trailer bought new battery and drove of trailer and pulled valve covers and it only ran 5 mins before spring broke dropping the valve.

I couldn't see the broken part of spring it was on rear cylinder, I should have barred it over and checked each spring, It had 15800 on it.

I think you left out a zero?

 

[Ron Leonard]

yup 158000

 

[NotQuiteanSS]

Well a misfire on cylinder 6 firing back up into the intake was the mechanics diagnosis... complete AFM failure. Well poop! 153k and it's about 1000 more for a replacement long block with a warranty, I was what I am being told.

Anyone have any good recommendations for a replacement motor with a warranty. I need a few more years out the old gal.

 

[Rocket Man]

Well a misfire on cylinder 6 firing back up into the intake was the mechanics diagnosis... complete AFM failure. Well poop! 153k and it's about 1000 more for a replacement long block with a warranty, I was what I am being told.

Anyone have any good recommendations for a replacement motor with a warranty. I need a few more years out the old gal.

Why a long block? Sounds like you just need a top end rebuild with a DOD delete.

 

[NotQuiteanSS]

1k for piece of mind for everything sounds like cheap peace of mind to me.

 

[wsteele]

1k for piece of mind for everything sounds like cheap peace of mind to me.

I think I don’t understand something. $1K likely wouldn’t get new lifters installed in your engine (at least at any labor rate with which I am familiar), let alone a complete long block.

 

[NotQuiteanSS]

1k for piece of mind for everything sounds like cheap peace of mind to me.

Shop told me 4 k for top end, new manifold, heads to machine shop, gaskets, bolts, lifters, etc.

5k for new motor with 3 year warranty.

 

[wjburken]

Shop told me 4 k for top end, new manifold, heads to machine shop, gaskets, bolts, lifters, etc.

5k for new motor with 3 year warranty.

Why the new manifold?

On our 2007 Denali (6.2 & no AFM), at 150K miles, I had a lifter lock up and put shrapnel into the oil pan. I paid $6K installed for a GM reman with 100K warranty on parts and labor. At 270K miles, I had another lifter lock up and scrub the cam. Tore it down and everything looked fine except for the cam and lifters. For just under $2K in parts I did the work myself. Something to consider.

If you can, it doesn’t cost you anything other than time, if you tear your existing motor down yourself to see what’s going on. You may find that everything is fine and can just go with an AFM delete kit and save some money.

Either way, I would make you don’t come out if this with AFM under to hood.

 

[NotQuiteanSS]

Hows the gas mileage with the AFM delete?

 

[wsteele]

Shop told me 4 k for top end, new manifold, heads to machine shop, gaskets, bolts, lifters, etc.

5k for new motor with 3 year warranty.

OK, now I understand, that makes more sense.

$4K for a top end seems really high (even including a new cam and sundry stuff to get the AFM delete). If the cam is fine (seems many times they are with just a collapsed AFM lifter), I would expect to pay a good shop about $2-$2.5K (depending on prevailing labor rates) for all new OE lifters, VLOM, freshen the heads, all required gaskets, etc.

Losing AFM seems to be about .5MPG penalty, at least that is what mine is with just AFM turned off. Many here report better than stock mileage when doing the mechanical delete and using a tune from somebody like Black Bear.