2011 Tahoe/Bad engine ticking, 153k miles

[wsteele]

Is there a way to upload a quick video? I just tried a 10 sec video and it was denied (too large) Definitely sounds like a mechanical tic, with a mechanical popping a few times. It sounds the same on both sides of the engine.

If a lifter or two broke, How bad ($$) of a repair do you folks think it is? Just lifters, or the whole enchilada? IE cam, lifters, push rods, and so on....

I am at 153k miles

On the costs, if it is a lifter, it all depends on what lifter failed and how it failed.

A single failed AFM lifter replacement (if the cam is OK) could be pretty cheap. If a lifter failed in a different way, it likely would take the cam with it, meaning quite a bit bigger job. In addition, if it is a lifter failure, you likely will be faced with the decision to do everything that should be done while you are in there. If you aren't going to do whatever needs doing yourself, and it is a lifter, I definitely would set aside that stimulus check Nancy is about to send you.

 

[iamdub]

Sounds like it's internal and not an exhaust leak. Don't run it any more and it might be very salvageable with new lifter(s) or an AFM delete, since an AFM lifter s likely what collapsed.

 

[NotQuiteanSS]

Sounds like it's internal and not an exhaust leak. Don't run it any more and it might be very salvageable with new lifter(s) or an AFM delete, since an AFM lifter s likely what collapsed.

What is an AFM lifter / delete?

 

[Rocket Man]

What is an AFM lifter / delete?

Active Fuel Management- it’s when the engine goes into 4 cyl mode to save on fuel. There was a lot of problems with the system until GM made some improvements. Lost if people have it turned off either through a device that plugs into the OBD port like a Range device or through a tune although that leaves the hardware in the engine. The safest way is to delete the components which you might want to do since it looks like you’ll have to tear the heads off to fix this so you’ll either have to replace some of it or delete it.

 

[trailblazer]

Odd. That sounds like my old Suburban 2500:

It was determined to be a spun bearing.

 

[wsteele]

Odd. That sounds like my old Suburban 2500:

It was determined to be a spun bearing.

It does sound the same, sans the popping.

 

[John Day]

Check your exhaust bolts

 

[Ron Leonard]

My 2010 sounded same way , I pulled valve covers and didn't see anything, upon idling for 5 mins looking for issues it dropped a valve and I found the spring that was cracked down near bottom of spring first and then broke in middle while running. I would look very close at springs while baring over by hand.

If lifter collapse all you should hear is clattering, the popping is your valve is NOT seating fully.

 

[wsteele]

My 2010 sounded same way , I pulled valve covers and didn't see anything, upon idling for 5 mins looking for issues it dropped a valve and I found the spring that was cracked down near bottom of spring first and then broke in middle while running. I would look very close at springs while baring over by hand.

If lifter collapse all you should hear is clattering, the popping is your valve is NOT seating fully.

Did you get a code/CEL?

 

[Ron Leonard]

No it was a SSV that I bought at auction and had sat for a year and a half. No codes as it had cleared ecm being dead

I winched on trailer bought new battery and drove of trailer and pulled valve covers and it only ran 5 mins before spring broke dropping the valve.

I couldn't see the broken part of spring it was on rear cylinder, I should have barred it over and checked each spring, It had 15800 on it.