2008 Denali XL 6.2L Low Oil Pressure - Fixed

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

PG01

Elite Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Posts
15,686
Reaction score
21,099
Location
Up here to the right
Thanks for this thread.
Really sounds like what my 2013 Tahoe needs.
Except my Tahoe has a 5.3 engine , I guess the fix is about the same?
Yes and no.....5.3 does have same issue but there are variables and to absolutely say thats your problem isn’t 100% correct so before tearing your lower half apart.... You gauge can be off, sender bad, screen behind sender can be clogged. Some other things to ask.....Whats your oil pressure currently? At cold start idle and running down the road? What oil you running? Filter? How long are your oci’s?
 

Baddawg

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2018
Posts
54
Reaction score
11
Location
Vail, Colorado


Thanks, Pete.
My issue looks like the original post here, not quite as bad, my warm oil pressure at idle stays above 20#.
I hadn't heard about the pressure sensor and screen issue and I will look into that.
I like the add two quarts and see what happens to the oil pressure to test for pick up O ring.
 

kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Posts
5,822
Reaction score
9,833
Location
NE. FL.
Thanks, Pete.
My issue looks like the original post here, not quite as bad, my warm oil pressure at idle stays above 20#.
I hadn't heard about the pressure sensor and screen issue and I will look into that.
I like the add two quarts and see what happens to the oil pressure to test for pick up O ring.

That's a pretty good test... just don't drive it like that. The crankshaft will whip the oil into a frothy mess and you will be pumping oil and air.

Oil is a good lubricant, air.... not so much.
 

Baddawg

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2018
Posts
54
Reaction score
11
Location
Vail, Colorado
That's a pretty good test... just don't drive it like that. The crankshaft will whip the oil into a frothy mess and you will be pumping oil and air.

Oil is a good lubricant, air.... not so much.

Right, run it at idle, OK.
Maybe move it around some at low speed, low RPM, low load , sorta OK, not to bad .
Take it out on the hiway and drop the hammer, pretty bad idea.
 

mikeyss

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2011
Posts
1,758
Reaction score
3,393
Location
Longmont, Colorado.
Good write up on the repair. One thing I found when replacing oil pan gasket is you do not have to totally remove the front diff. If you remove the lower shock bolt that is under the axle shaft, then the diff bolts, it allows the axle shafts to drop down further thus allowing the diff to drop a few inches lower.
 

mikeyss

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2011
Posts
1,758
Reaction score
3,393
Location
Longmont, Colorado.
This is a example of what I mean. See how the lower shock bolt is in the way if there was a axle shaft above it?

07Tahoe23_big21.jpg
 

General Stalin

Full Access Member
Joined
May 3, 2009
Posts
209
Reaction score
44
Awesome write up. Very likely this is my issue as well as my oil pressure in my denali is looking identical to yours in the first pics (below 20# at warm idle, a little above 40# at cold idle).

I have replaced my oil pan gasket before as I was leaking oil out of the factory gasket, wish I had replaced this too while I already had it off...

From my experience you do not need to remove the differential to get the pan out, like mykeyss said. You can just unbolt it and let it drop down a few inches and the pan can slid in and out fine. That's what I did. Saves you a lot of time and effort for sure.
 
Last edited:

CobraKing

Full Access Member
Joined
May 29, 2017
Posts
160
Reaction score
79
Thanks for this thread.
Really sounds like what my 2013 Tahoe needs.
Except my Tahoe has a 5.3 engine , I guess the fix is about the same?

Same fix with the 5.3 - I did it on my '14 PPV with that motor. Truck's RWD so it went a lot quicker due to not having a front differential.
 

PG01

Elite Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Posts
15,686
Reaction score
21,099
Location
Up here to the right
What’s this part do and where does it install?

..........‘This little oil deflector mounts to the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan of GMC 5.3 motors. When the filter screen for the valve lifter manifold plugs up, the pressure relief valve sprays the bottom of the pistons until the oil rings stick and the engine starts burning oil. The first warning is a low oil pressure light/ message. If you don't catch it in time, the engine can seize. The first two years of this 5.3 engine, a poor assembly procedure often resulted in a cut o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube, aerating the oil resulting in accelerated wear, clogging the aforementioned filter screen. A lot going on here. GM came up with this deflector on later versions of the engine..’........
 

Ponchonutty

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2013
Posts
560
Reaction score
69
Location
New Washington, Ohio
Gotcha. Well my Denali with the 6.2 I believe is in need of the o ring replacement so that’s why I was asking. I hadn’t noticed it using any oil in the 208k miles I’ve ran it
 

jberrymd

TYF Newbie
Joined
Apr 13, 2019
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
just had our 2009 Yukon XL denali at mechanic with low oil pressure/lifter tick. Pressure is 20 when on highway and down to around 10 at idle. We did an oil additive cleaning and then changed the oil from 5W30 to 0W20. Now pressure id 40ish at startup and drops as it warms up and driving. I see a few bubbles on dipstick, but not froth. Could it still be the o ring? How much should I expect a non-dealership mechanic to charge for the o-ring replacement?
 

jberrymd

TYF Newbie
Joined
Apr 13, 2019
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
I will try the front end down test first to see if that helps with the pressure.
 

General Stalin

Full Access Member
Joined
May 3, 2009
Posts
209
Reaction score
44
O-ring is sort of a big job. I don't know the typical labor quotes for this job but I bet they charge 4-8 hours + fluids and replacement gaskets.
 

InTNallen

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 21, 2020
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
I have 145 k on my 2007 Yukon Denali 6.2. My pressure when hot was dropping to around 25 psi, I changed to 5wx40 FS and have noticed about a 10 psi increase when hot to just under 40. I’m going to add ATP AT-205 that I saw on you tube by Kilmer to see if it can soften than oring up and maybe save me some work. If it works I will go back to 5wx30, if not I may keep using the 5wx40? If it keeps pressure, up maybe that’s fine?
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
7,845
Reaction score
20,403
Location
Richmond, VA
O-ring is sort of a big job. I don't know the typical labor quotes for this job but I bet they charge 4-8 hours + fluids and replacement gaskets.
Honestly, I didn't find it that bad. You don't have to drop the whole diff. It's enough to loosen the passenger side mount and the bolts for the CV axle flange, and let it hang. I then dropped the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods and also removed the cross member. I could do the job again in 2 hours and am just about to because I'm putting a new oil pump in now. An air impact wrench was worth its weight in gold for the job.
 

PatDTN

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Posts
632
Reaction score
465
If you're pulling the pickup tube off the oil pump does that cause the pump to drain or is there a check valve? There is a hex plug on the driver side that allows you to fill the pump with oil. With the right setup you can pressurize the whole oiling system through that.
 

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,987
Reaction score
3,641
I didn't have to prime mine or anything when I replaced my pickup o-ring.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,745
Posts
1,991,106
Members
102,735
Latest member
Jumpshot12
Back
Top