Fuel Pump Access Door in floor of 2007-2014 models

[89Suburban]

 

[OR VietVet]

Pretty as it is, I will never agree with it. My views about this has been stated many times.

 

[ivin74]

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Looks like an obs suv, reminds me of my old 1996 2dr.

 

[Larryjb]

Knowing that "access" doors exist on other vehicles for the fuel pump, the concept of adding an access door itself doesn't bother me. The absence of one originally may be simply a cost savings measure.

That said, I'd have to agree that draining and dropping the tank probably takes less time than to strip the interior, carefully cut through the floor, cut a new larger patch from a junkyard Tahoe, drill, prime, and install the patch. The patch should have been sealed with a butyl sealant as well to prevent any exhaust vapors from entering the vehicle. Also, this job is likely to be done only once in the lifetime of the vehicle.

I believe these tanks are quite light once the fuel is removed.

 

[91RS]

The time it took you to do that could have had the tank dropped and back in...

 

[GreyStone]

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This mod could be a lifesaver if your pump failed far away from home like a road trip or camping trip or even during a blizzard.

 

[OR VietVet]

This mod could be a lifesaver if your pump failed far away from home like a road trip or camping trip or even during a blizzard.

My reasoning about why I do not agree with the access is documented and does have to do with physical harm.

 

[Kylem40]

Here are photos showing the location of a DIY access hatch for 2007 Yukon XL fuel pump. Its basically the same location as in the pre-2007 generation. Used a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel. Was super easy. Yes it created sparks, but there was zero issue with the sparks igniting gasoline. This was MUCH easier and faster than dropping the fuel tank and havingView attachment 233668 to disconnect all of the hoses and vent lines. View attachment 233669 View attachment 233670

My 07 is a SLT hope its the same. I would imagine so. Thank you for posting this. I am about to do this. I know this post is old i just wanted to thank you.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

Yes - It's an old post but very applicable. Just got a quote for $1,593 to have mine replaced. At 128K miles don't trust it, as it's my wife's primary driver and we do use it to travel from the metro Phoenix area to Carlsbad, CA every summer along I-8 in 110+ heat. Definitely not a place I want to risk having an aging fuel pump give out on us, so doing this as preventive maintenance.

My '04 Grand Prix had an access plate under the back seat to do this. Used it to replace a faulty fuel level sending unit. Super easy.

Trying to get the wires and hoses unplugged with the tank hanging partially up there as needed to fully drop it with little to no access or leverage is extremely difficult and frustrating. Particularly if a clip breaks or the electrical connectors don't separate properly. Ask how I know. A real PITA laying on your back and under a jacked-up 5500 lb vehicle. No thanks.

An AC Delco pump/float assembly is $280, or the Delphi $230 from Rock Auto. Going to do the access panel method. I have air tools for speeding-up the seat removal. Will use a bead of silicone to seal a slightly oversized cover plate and make it gas tight. As good as any factory access panel. Shooting to do this on an upcoming Saturday and will post my results.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

Update: Going to do an about face. A work buddy referred me to a highly recommended, family-owned shop w/50 years in business. They'll charge me 3 hours for a total of $390 to drop the tank and change the fuel pump. They're fine with me providing the parts. In light of that, went ahead and ordered the AC/Delco pump w/sender, a new Lock ring, and Charcoal vapor canister from Rock Auto. Scheduled to have it done on July 9th, will advise how it goes.
Much more down to earth than the $1,593 estimate I had received at Firestone and worth it to me in terms of not having to spend a Saturday pulling the seat, fabbing the access plate and changing the pump.

 

[OR VietVet]

Update: Going to do an about face. A work buddy referred me to a highly recommended, family-owned shop w/50 years in business. They'll charge me 3 hours for a total of $390 to drop the tank and change the fuel pump. They're fine with me providing the parts. In light of that, went ahead and ordered the AC/Delco pump w/sender, a new Lock ring, and Charcoal vapor canister from Rock Auto. Scheduled to have it done on July 9th, will advise how it goes.
Much more down to earth than the $1,593 estimate I had received at Firestone and worth it to me in terms of not having to spend a Saturday pulling the seat, fabbing the access plate and changing the pump.

This is why I liked working at and running the small mom and pop shops. Never worked for a dealer or retail chain.

 

[Larryjb]

That is if the small Ma and Pop shops are reliable. I've had small Ma and Pop shops leave suspension or alignment bolts loose that almost killed me.

 

[OR VietVet]

That is if the small Ma and Pop shops are reliable. I've had small Ma and Pop shops leave suspension or alignment bolts loose that almost killed me.

The small mom and pop shops I worked at had a good reputation or I would not work there and if I ran them, I got rid of the part's changers and hired mechanics/techs.

 

[j91z28d1]

That is if the small Ma and Pop shops are reliable. I've had small Ma and Pop shops leave suspension or alignment bolts loose that almost killed me.

I had a major corporate Firestone leave my alignment bolts loose, when I got home and checked it was bearly hand tight when spec is over 100ftlb(not a gmt900). you can get shoty work out of any shop. some time the dealership is the worst. I can be a tech that doesn't know or one that just makes a mistake. we all make those. I know I have.


I worked at a performance shop as a kid, and one of the techs left a safety clip off a fuel line at the fuel rail after an intake swap. mustang made it a few miles from the shop and burnt to the ground. Lucky for the shop he knew the owner and they worked something out or it would have been a big insurance claim.

 

[OR VietVet]

I did an upper and lower intake gaskets job and new plugs and ignition coils on a Ford Escape 4 cylinder. This was about 8 months ago and know he will be back for more work. At the back d/s corner there is a tall upper intake bolt with a threaded stud top and on there an eyelet for a section of wiring harness drops down on the threads and a nut is supposed to tighten down on it. I forgot the nut and found that out 2 days later when I was cleaning out my tool cart and found the nut. There is no way in hell that harness eyelet is coming off there, on that tall threaded stud. The threads are about 1" long. BUT IT BUGS ME. When I see the car again, that nut is going on there. I have to remove the air snorkel from air filter to throttle body to do it, but it will happen.

 

[tom3]

For the gas tank on these machines I'd want to drop the tank and clean everything around the tank. Dirt, sand, gravel all build up over time, and the straps seem to be designed to rust too. Sure be nice if the tank happened to be low on gas too.

 

[Larryjb]

For the gas tank on these machines I'd want to drop the tank and clean everything around the tank. Dirt, sand, gravel all build up over time, and the straps seem to be designed to rust too. Sure be nice if the tank happened to be low on gas too.

Coat the brake lines with POR-15 while you're at it. That was the cause of my brake failure a couple of years ago.

 

[donjetman]

I dropped my tank recently and it was easy. I only had 3 gals in the tank and there is no rust on our Denali.

 

[tom3]

Long Live Texas (steel frames and body)

 

[KidWgn]

I dropped my tank recently and it was easy. I only had 3 gals in the tank and there is no rust on our Denali.

Says the guy with a lift in his garage