My From Start to Finish 6.0L Build

[RAMurphy]

Which rings did you get? Plasma moly top rings by chance?Are your second rings the taper face or the new Napier cut? There’s a pretty good section on installing the rings in the book I have- I think you said you have it too?

Mark, I'm using the JE Pro Series Seal Piston Rings. They are essentially custom rings. 1st ring is steel, 2nd ring is a composite (Iron/Phos/Nap - Bcut. Because these are custom rings and to ensure I have the "perfect" gap, I needed to grind all the 1st and 2nd rings to ensure proper gap for each cylinder. The oil rings were all fine. My "confusion" lies with the instructions provided with the pistons and rings. I may need to contact Texas Speed to be sure. Yes, I have that book and another and a video that appears to be in slight difference to what I think I'm reading. I'll sort it out.

 

[RAMurphy]

So after reading the instructions that came with my pistons and rings after a good night rest - I think I was over reading/thinking the instructions. They are inline with my overhaul books and videos. Spent this morning measuring connecting rod to crankshaft bearing clearances. They all checkout at .0018 to .0019.

 

[RAMurphy]

Ah got it. I’m trying to learn a bit as you go on, since I might end up building an LS one day. So I was reading about the different types of rings available now, since that technology keeps changing like everything else. So in the book I have, they were talking about the different types and it says if you are using steel top rings you need at least 90% “light tight” ring- to cylinder wall contact or they won’t break in properly. Is this something you’ll need to be concerned with or nah?

Edit: now that I think about what you said, I’m guessing you’re following the instructions that came with your rings. So never mind me, carry on!

I'm keeping detailed records and all part numbers and costs so when you actually start your build feel free to ask questions.

 

[RAMurphy]

So all, still a bit of time left before I complete this build and start the swap but I'm wondering since I will be pulling the engine and therefore having access to the torque converter whether I should upgrade this converter based on this new engine. Thoughts?

 

[Rocket Man]

I mean, while you’re there I would definitely replace it. As far as what I’d replace it with, I would probably change stall speed since I’m sure you’ll be driving it more spirited. I don’t have any recommendations as far as stall, brand or exact type. There’s a lot of personal preference involved imo. I forget- is your trans stock? Also, what type of tune are you going to run, that might influence what stall speed you would want.

Edit: I see you’ll be using BlackBear to tune it.

 

[iamdub]

So all, still a bit of time left before I complete this build and start the swap but I'm wondering since I will be pulling the engine and therefore having access to the torque converter whether I should upgrade this converter based on this new engine. Thoughts?

I think you'd be shorting yourself, like going all out everywhere else then stifling it a little with a stock converter. A better converter can improve the performance of a stock powertrain with little or no sacrifices. I forget what cam you have. But, based on weight, gearing, engine's expected power band, intended uses, etc., a company specializing in converters can spec one ideal for you. I'm very happy with my CircleD converter. It drives almost like stock during normal cruising but, when mashing it, it rips to nearly 3,000 before it hits hard. I've towed with it with no problems. Don't forget the input seal on the trans while you're there.

 

[RAMurphy]

I mean, while you’re there I would definitely replace it. As far as what I’d replace it with, I would probably change stall speed since I’m sure you’ll be driving it more spirited. I don’t have any recommendations as far as stall, brand or exact type. There’s a lot of personal preference involved imo. I forget- is your trans stock? Also, what type of tune are you going to run, that might influence what stall speed you would want.

Edit: I see you’ll be using BlackBear to tune it.

Mark, that's what I was thinking. Replace/upgrade while the engine is out. Yes, I have BBP tune and absolutely love it. My transmission is no longer stock. Several years ago I had a transmission guy (over 30+ years in the business) completely overhaul and upgrade my transmission with the best quality parts available. He sent step by step pictures and videos as he was tearing it down and rebuilding it. I even stopped by several times and he walked me through the process. When it was complete and installed, he stated that this was the as strong as he could make it and if I blew this one up it would be time for a 4L80, which he said he could make happen. No issues yet.

 

[RAMurphy]

I think you'd be shorting yourself, like going all out everywhere else then stifling it a little with a stock converter. A better converter can improve the performance of a stock powertrain with little or no sacrifices. I forget what cam you have. But, based on weight, gearing, engine's expected power band, intended uses, etc., a company specializing in converters can spec one ideal for you. I'm very happy with my CircleD converter. It drives almost like stock during normal cruising but, when mashing it, it rips to nearly 3,000 before it hits hard. I've towed with it with no problems. Don't forget the input seal on the trans while you're there.

I think you'd be shorting yourself, like going all out everywhere else then stifling it a little with a stock converter. A better converter can improve the performance of a stock powertrain with little or no sacrifices. I forget what cam you have. But, based on weight, gearing, engine's expected power band, intended uses, etc., a company specializing in converters can spec one ideal for you. I'm very happy with my CircleD converter. It drives almost like stock during normal cruising but, when mashing it, it rips to nearly 3,000 before it hits hard. I've towed with it with no problems. Don't forget the input seal on the trans while you're there.

Thank you for the response. Totally agree with the need to change/upgrade the torque converter. Started researching and wow so many variables go into picking the "right" converter including the cam (Vinci's Performance 544/552/213/220/114+4A) I am using. I like the ideal of reaching out to a company and having that discussion. Thank you for suggesting CircleD. I know there are others.

 

[Rocket Man]

I ended up talking to my trans builder as well as Roger Vinci when deciding on my converter. I went with an FTI billet triple disc with 2800 (iirc) stall since I have power adders but I feel that’s more than what you need. Performabuilt offered a second year of warranty on my trans if I bought an FTI converter so that had a lot to do with my choice of brand but I feel you won’t go wrong with a Circle D either. They’re both well known in the race world which to me is an indicator of quality. Racers don’t use parts that fail.

 

[RAMurphy]

I ended up talking to my trans builder as well as Roger Vinci when deciding on my converter. I went with an FTI billet triple disc with 2800 (iirc) stall since I have power adders but I feel that’s more than what you need. Performabuilt offered a second year of warranty on my trans if I bought an FTI converter so that had a lot to do with my choice of brand but I feel you won’t go wrong with a Circle D either. They’re both well known in the race world which to me is an indicator of quality. Racers don’t use parts that fail.

I plan to look at both these companies and a couple of others. Thanks again.

 

[Sam Harris]

Based on my family's success and my recent success with ATK performance. I have over 8K on my current upgraded engine. I also was able to get a significant discount after talking to customer service. So, I purchased the 13G8 Machined LQ4 6.0L Bare Block.

Just up the road from me…

ETA: can you provide some details on your previous success with ATK.?

 

[Sam Harris]

Man, I love this thread! Inspiring! If I had some disposable income right now, I’d be ordering parts. I can’t wait to do one of my own. The block you ordered looks great too. Excellent write up and details. And of course some valuable, and important feedback from knowledgeable members here. I love this forum!

 

[RAMurphy]

Just up the road from me…

ETA: can you provide some details on your previous success with ATK.?

Sure. First I would say their customer service is quite good. Second, the current engine in my Tahoe is from them and it currently has roughly 10K miles on it (easily 1/3 of that is towing our camper) and it is still running very strong. Hindsight, I should have put in a 6.0L instead of the upgraded 5.3L. My original engine died of a camshaft bearing failure at around 288K. I think I might have contributed to this failure when I upgraded the camshaft (@240K) - I might have nicked that bearing during install. Not sure, but I was also troubleshooting a low oil pressure issue at the time of failure. And finally, my brother bought an engine from them for his Dodge truck and it should have turned over 100K by now. I also have a friend who bought an engine from them for his Jeep. I would also add that this current block was in pristine condition. When the engine and block was shipped it was protected quite well in a very solid wood crafted shipping container.

 

[RAMurphy]

Man, I love this thread! Inspiring! If I had some disposable income right now, I’d be ordering parts. I can’t wait to do one of my own. The block you ordered looks great too. Excellent write up and details. And of course some valuable, and important feedback from knowledgeable members here. I love this forum!

Thank you and your so right. This forum and the members are selfless, knowledgeable and amazing.

 

[Just Fishing]

I have not had that issue with the LS7 lifter and I've cammed several LS motors. What oil pump are you using?

I'm using a melling hplv pump with the standard blue spring.

I had tried to use a hvhp pump before and that liked to flood my cylinder heads and signs of my pan getting sucked dry.

I'm thinking it was all caused by the pac dual spring setup that came with my afr heads.
Higher spring pressure equals more pumping of the lifter.

I found a posting in the corvette forum with the same issue and the resolution to use the different style of lifter.

I have my lifter issues patched right now with some heavier weight oil (40w), pressures are much better and the valve train noise is mostly non existant.

New project in the way, but i plan to install the new lifters once i have the jeep running and on the road.

Next step would be to replace the valve springs with some standard weight ones if this fails to fix the issue.

 

[RAMurphy]

I tried to install my pistons last Sunday but I pulled out my piston ring compressor and it was too small. Shame on me for assuming it would work and not verifying. My correct size compressor arrived today so hopefully I can get the pistons installed this weekend. Family life keeps delaying me (which is a good thing) but as I stated at the start, I'm not in a hurry and want to do this right.

 

[RAMurphy]

I found time last night to install a couple of pistons. I wanted to ensure the piston ring compressor would work. I was going to install just piston number 1, but it was so easy I installed number 2. The key was to lubricate the cylinder, the inside of the compressor and the piston/rings. After that just slip the piston into the compressor, make sure the rings are correctly aligned and not off to the side, then tap into the cylinder. As the piston slides down the compressor the rings get compressed and slides into cylinder. So Simple. End play/clearance checked good. Six more to go - hopefully this weekend.

 

[Rocket Man]

I found time last night to install a couple of pistons. I wanted to ensure the piston ring compressor would work. I was going to install just piston number 1, but it was so easy I installed number 2. The key was to lubricate the cylinder, the inside of the compressor and the piston/rings. After that just slip the piston into the compressor, make sure the rings are correctly aligned and not off to the side, then tap into the cylinder. As the piston slides down the compressor the rings get compressed and slides into cylinder. So Simple. End play/clearance checked good. Six more to go - hopefully this weekend.

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What brand is that tool?

 

[RAMurphy]

What brand is that tool?

@Rocket Man It's a Summit tool. You buy it from a size perspective. My cylinder bore is 4.03, so I bought the 4.03 tool. So simple to use. the only problem is that it is not adjustable - but I don't see me building another engine.

 

[RAMurphy]

Over the weekend I did manage to get 4 more pistons installed.

Most of my time though was spent with my sick Beagle and keeping him comfortable. I also had to install a new overhead garage door. The old one was taken out by a failed torsion spring. Wow, lucky that thing failed without anything underneath it. I did the install myself and used a torsions spring conversion called EZ torsion spring. You use a drill to wind the spring. Pretty simple.

Installed the other pistons tonight. However, going to remove #7 in the next day or two. It did not go in as easy as the others so I'm concerned I might have damaged one of the rings. Better safe then sorry.

I will post pictures when I get a chance.