Vibration issue

[Kee Fuller]

Drive a 2013 PPV. Still trying to figure out why my truck starts to shake at the wheel when i get around the 75-80mph mark. Wheels are brand new and not bent, tires are brand new, been road balanced a few times, truck had a negative camber when i went down from 24s to 22s. Got a new alignment and its still slightly negative. Truck is lowered as well. Should i look at replacing the tie rod ends, front upper and lower control arms?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Could be a bad tire. Rotate them front to back and see if you still have the problem

 

[Kee Fuller]

Could be a bad tire. Rotate them front to back and see if you still have the problem

Tires literally have 100 miles on them. We’ve done that already

 

[camaroz2887]

Have you been experiencing this since you got it? I’m assuming it’s up front if considering tie rods and control arms. Have you confirmed with a rotation that the vibration stays in the front and doesn’t move with the tires. Tried getting under there with a pry bar on suspension parts? Tried the wiggle test at 12 and 6/ 3 and 9? Have you/ your tire shop checked for out of round tires?

Have you done ANY diagnosis on your own at all or just driving observations?

Should I keep going?

Edit: No intention to sound condescending even though it might sound like it

 

[Kee Fuller]

Been to discount tire about 3 times. It’s not the tires, we’ve done every diagnostic on them, so that’s is ruled out.

The first set of PPV wheels and tires i had the issue, dealership said they were bent, so i got another set and still had those issues, tires were nexen, had them swapped out for another set of nexens, same issues, thought it was just a rough ride since it’s a cop truck. Jumped up to 24s same tire brand, same tire style, same issue. Went down to 22s went with Pirellis cause I’m thinking the nexen are junk. Still have the same issue.

When i got the truck lowered on 24s last year, i asked about the control arms and tire rod ends and they said they are okay. But i figured since it was a cop truck and they probably ran it into the dirt, they might be going bad

 

[camaroz2887]

Hmm I’d like to agree on suspension and it very well may be but it sounds like an imbalance somewhere but maybe not the tires or rims.

Is the road force balance done with the tires still on the vehicle? If so than I’d agree suspension. If they are taken off the vehicle similar to a normal balancer than your problem may be with other rotating parts.

Maybe try inspecting rotors, cvs, and driveshaft. An imbalance in these parts could create similar issues, albeit I’ve yet to deal with an out of balance driveshaft so idk how that would feel.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Since you've had 2 or 3 different sets of tire/wheel combos and it did it with all of them, I'd guess it's not a wheel or tire problem, lol.

That would be my next guess, rotors, front axles, or driveshaft

 

[ChrisSRT]

check engine and transmission mounts as well, drive line shifting will cause that as well.

 

[Shackman7878]

Would check all suspension all rubber bushings, ball joints, inner and outter tie rod ends, if it moves it can vibrate. Is it front or back. Maybe have someone in the back seats with open or closed windows and listen.

 

[George B]

Same stretch of highway? There is a stretch by me that was paved rough and causes a shake. Only when I am on that stretch. Chased a ghost for a while.

 

[Bill 1960]

Find an old school tire or suspension shop with the tools to spin it on the truck. Whatever it is, that will find it.

 

[iamdub]

You feel it in the steering wheel or in your butt? I have what I'd describe as a similar shake. I'm suspecting driveshaft/U-joint issue. I'm kinda wanting to keep telling myself it's that so I stay prompted to upgrade my driveshaft and U-joints cuz that should be done anyway.

 

[Doubeleive]

u-joints, driveshaft, pinion bearing.
drop the shaft and check the u-joints and see if the pinion has any play in it.
personally I would not be concerned with the hubs or tie-rods unless they have detectable play/wear
hubs will make noise/trigger abs, tie-rods will cause sloppy steering/tire wear, wobble.
ball joints/control arms will just make noise, popping, snapping.
I drive the piss out of mine the only time I have had vibration issue's it was u-joints/pinion and a bent wheel once.
if you haven't serviced the rear diff it might be worth checking just to see if there is any metal in there.

 

[Kee Fuller]

You feel it in the steering wheel or in your butt? I have what I'd describe as a similar shake. I'm suspecting driveshaft/U-joint issue. I'm kinda wanting to keep telling myself it's that so I stay prompted to upgrade my driveshaft and U-joints cuz that should be done anyway.

Steering wheel and butt. I even look over and see the pax seat shaking a bit

 

[George B]

You could try turning the drive shaft 180° in the yoke after inspecting the U-joints. Might help.

 

[RichardCranium]

Did anyone else get nauseous at the "cop truck" remarks, or was it just me?

I agree with the majority, you've ruled out the wheels/tires. Since its at speed, it is surely in the drivetrain. The easiest thing you can do yourself is rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees as @George B mentioned. No change, probably not your suspect. If the shimmy moves to a different speed after rotating it, or gets worse/better, you've found your culprit. Otherwise, zero change means you can move on. KISS method really applies here, if nothing else to rule out the easy stuff.

 

[Kee Fuller]

Did anyone else get nauseous at the "cop truck" remarks, or was it just me?

Just you

 

[BourbonNcigars]

If it only starts at the same speed every drive that can be indicative of two or more parts resonating together at the same frequency. So instead of one going up and one going down, two variables are going up and down at the same time (vibrating/shaking).

Since you've ruled out the wheels with all the various combos you've had on the truck, and there's so many potential candidates to cause a vibration, it may be cheapest/easiest to start with the low hanging fruit like tire pressure and bushings, then work your way up from there.

Grasping here, but were all the wheels/tires done at the same place? if so, there's always a chance they just don't know what they're doing. A good and proper road force balance takes skill. And always get the numbers from them for each one if they don't provide it. Same with alignment.

 

[swathdiver]

Drive a 2013 PPV. Still trying to figure out why my truck starts to shake at the wheel when i get around the 75-80mph mark. Wheels are brand new and not bent, tires are brand new, been road balanced a few times, truck had a negative camber when i went down from 24s to 22s. Got a new alignment and its still slightly negative. Truck is lowered as well. Should i look at replacing the tie rod ends, front upper and lower control arms?

Maximum play allowed for upper and lower ball joints is .5mm. Max play for inner and outer tie rods is 1mm.

Don't forget the control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings and end links and the two bushings in the steering rack that mount it to the frame.

 

[Kee Fuller]

Maximum play allowed for upper and lower ball joints is .5mm. Max play for inner and outer tie rods is 1mm.

Don't forget the control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings and end links and the two bushings in the steering rack that mount it to the frame.

End links and sway bar bushings were changed last year when i added the eibach sway bar. Another thing i can zero out thankfully.