Highway driving - do you make constant corrections or can you relax?

[Sundancer]

wow this is tough to hear that you are having such difficulty with this long distance driving. In the last 6 weeks, (visiting family) we (wife, Golden Retriever and I) just did a New York to Tampa drive to and from and it felt like I was gliding all the way on our 2020 Tahoe RST. We stayed 3 weeks but had the truck aligned and wheels (22") rotated before we left. Also went to Ohio and back in 4 days with no issues and oil/filter change both trips. I love long distance drives, I hate the hops to the store and the malls.

 

[PG01]

But @91RS IS THE ALIGNMENT GUY…. Nobody is listening…. He works at a chevy dealer and is a gm mechanic… im sure he knows exactly wtf he’s doing….you’s gotta read more.
@91RS
My 13 tahoe never felt like that ever…i know shortbody but even the 19 yuk den xl is fine.

 

[Scrappycrow]

How would you reduce the power-assisted effect? Underdrive pulley?

An underdrive pulley is what I suggested against doing. You'd want to use the pump modification I linked to, if it can be applied to our pumps. Past that, there are "hot rod" type in-hose bypasses, but that involves modifying the hoses themselves (i.e. cutting and crimping on at least the supply, if not both the supply and return).

 

[Lil Timmy Shy]

Since you asked.......... Mine drives like a dream. Stays right where I point it with very little correction. (2014 Tahoe). The steering/handling is one of the few systems on this "Sunny Beach" I don't worry about.

 

[j91z28d1]

Not true. Go to the guys that do track setup for European cars and can obviously speak the language. I modified the suspension on my Volvo, which comes with waaay too much understeer and enough camber on the rear wheels to wreck the tires in 30k. Now it rides on rails, tires last to the rating and i need to go to the track more to remind myself where the breaking point is.

Same guy worked through my 2022 Tahoe to figure out how much camber gets introduced to GM's terrible IRS per 100# of hitch weight. 0.1 degrees, btw, for those that tow a lot. With 50% towing, also wrecks tires in 30k.

But yeah, can be hard to find those guys.

OK, there are good guys, but very hard to find and they aren't at your local tire shop.

sounds like you found some good techs. very rare

 

[Actifenpleinair]

Here’s the last alignment.

I suppose I could try giving it more caster, I've never really tried that. Google's AI says:

"More caster, specifically more positive caster, generally improves a vehicle's straight-line stability and steering feel, making it more resistant to wandering at higher speeds and providing a more planted, confident driving experience. However, it can also increase steering effort, particularly at low speeds."

View attachment 462388

Too much toe in. Go to zero. My 2007 with 280k settled in from twitchy to chill when I went from .3 degree toe to zero. About a half turn of the tie rod, and Bob's your uncle. Cheers.

 

[Geotrash]

I'm a little late to the conversation here but I did read through every comment. The only thing I can add is my own experience. My 2007 Yukon XL Denali had gotten to a point where it also required constant vigilance and corrections on the highway. I also had the benefit of also owning our 2012 Yukon XL Denali so I could tell the difference easily. I put in a reman BBB rack and it solved the problem completely in my case. It's still driving great 2.5 years later. The old rack had developed a small amount of play after 230K miles, and the inner tie rods and rack mount bushings were also worn out.

 

[kbuskill]

I'm a little late to the conversation here but I did read through every comment. The only thing I can add is my own experience. My 2007 Yukon XL Denali had gotten to a point where it also required constant vigilance and corrections on the highway. I also had the benefit of also owning our 2012 Yukon XL Denali so I could tell the difference easily. I put in a reman BBB rack and it solved the problem completely in my case. It's still driving great 2.5 years later. The old rack had developed a small amount of play after 230K miles, and the inner tie rods and rack mount bushings were also worn out.

On this note, it reminded me, I replaced the factory steering rack with one from O'Reilly's, I think it was a remanufactured unit but came with a Lifetime warranty. This was a last minute purchase after I found out I didn't have the tools needed to fully disassemble the original rack to replace all the seals as it was leaking around the inner tie rods and getting into the bellows. I already had the rack pulled and taken apart but got to a point that I couldn't proceed any further so I reluctantly replaced it.

I also have a poly bushing on the passenger end of the rack and the bushing stabilizer/stiffener installed on the driver's side.

Here is a link... https://a.co/d/cVrsqf0

That may help, but I would be suspect of the rack itself if it wanders that much.

 

[91RS]

I'm a little late to the conversation here but I did read through every comment. The only thing I can add is my own experience. My 2007 Yukon XL Denali had gotten to a point where it also required constant vigilance and corrections on the highway. I also had the benefit of also owning our 2012 Yukon XL Denali so I could tell the difference easily. I put in a reman BBB rack and it solved the problem completely in my case. It's still driving great 2.5 years later. The old rack had developed a small amount of play after 230K miles, and the inner tie rods and rack mount bushings were also worn out.

I knew someone had done one of the aftermarket steering gears, but I couldn’t remember who it was and couldn’t find the post. If it is a worn part, the gear is the only option because it was a used part. It was supposed to be from a 30k mile Yukon XL SLT that had been hit in the rear and it probably has 50k on it now maybe. Who knows if the truck it came from was drug around at any of the yards it was at or onto tow trucks, etc. I know the bushings are fine because I replaced those in January. What made you choose the BBB one over the Edelmann one?

 

[91RS]

On this note, it reminded me, I replaced the factory steering rack with one from O'Reilly's, I think it was a remanufactured unit but came with a Lifetime warranty. This was a last minute purchase after I found out I didn't have the tools needed to fully disassemble the original rack to replace all the seals as it was leaking around the inner tie rods and getting into the bellows. I already had the rack pulled and taken apart but got to a point that I couldn't proceed any further so I reluctantly replaced it.

I also have a poly bushing on the passenger end of the rack and the bushing stabilizer/stiffener installed on the driver's side.

Here is a link... https://a.co/d/cVrsqf0

That may help, but I would be suspect of the rack itself if it wanders that much.

I tried that kit but I had a hell of a time getting that bushing on the right side and then once I did, it made a horrendous noise so I took it back out. I took the void filler bracket out when I changed to the gel filled bushings earlier this year.

 

[Geotrash]

I knew someone had done one of the aftermarket steering gears, but I couldn’t remember who it was and couldn’t find the post. If it is a worn part, the gear is the only option because it was a used part. It was supposed to be from a 30k mile Yukon XL SLT that had been hit in the rear and it probably has 50k on it now maybe. Who knows if the truck it came from was drug around at any of the yards it was at or onto tow trucks, etc. I know the bushings are fine because I replaced those in January. What made you choose the BBB one over the Edelmann one?

At the time, Rock Auto didn't have any newly manufactured units in stock, so I was relegated to the reman units. From that list I did some desk research on each of the vendors, their reman process, and online reviews from others who'd used the various units available. I don't remember what the final piece in my decision-making was, but it wasn't price. BBB was either one of the most, or the most expensive option at that time.

For what it's worth, I remember a bunch of posts years ago about slippage in the passenger-side steering rack mount bushing, and that it was a persistent problem for some owners that kept coming back. It may be the same thing that @kbuskill is talking about.

Here is one article on it I bookmarked at the time, but it wasn't just a noise, it was actual play in the rack bushing that also led to a loose and wandering steering for those affected:

https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/gm-simple-steering-noise-fix/

 

[kbuskill]

I tried that kit but I had a hell of a time getting that bushing on the right side and then once I did, it made a horrendous noise so I took it back out. I took the void filler bracket out when I changed to the gel filled bushings earlier this year.

That is weird, I never had any noise or issues out of mine. It was a bugger to install with the rack still on the truck though.

 

[91RS]

At the time, Rock Auto didn't have any newly manufactured units in stock, so I was relegated to the reman units. From that list I did some desk research on each of the vendors, their reman process, and online reviews from others who'd used the various units available. I don't remember what the final piece in my decision-making was, but it wasn't price. BBB was either one of the most, or the most expensive option at that time.

For what it's worth, I remember a bunch of posts years ago about slippage in the passenger-side steering rack mount bushing, and that it was a persistent problem for some owners that kept coming back. It may be the same thing that @kbuskill is talking about.

Here is one article on it I bookmarked at the time, but it wasn't just a noise, it was actual play in the rack bushing that also led to a loose and wandering steering for those affected:

https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/gm-simple-steering-noise-fix/

The BBB is still the most expensive. I almost ordered it but then wasn’t sure I wanted to risk spending more money on this damn thing.

Even a new one seems like it has a little bit of play in it. I replaced it on both of my trucks.

 

[Geotrash]

The BBB is still the most expensive. I almost ordered it but then wasn’t sure I wanted to risk spending more money on this damn thing.

Even a new one seems like it has a little bit of play in it. I replaced it on both of my trucks.

I get it. You've literally done everything else, and you're even the alignment guy at the dealer! Not sure what to advise here. All I can offer is that the BBB rack solved a similar driving experience issue for me.

I have to say though that the way you described the problem in your first post makes me think the problem is more severe in your case than it was in mine. My steering was wonky after the replacement though until I took it in for alignment at Firestone, which is to be expected when one takes the steering system apart. If it would help I'll see if I can dig up the before/after alignment measurements too.

 

[91RS]

To be honest, most people probably wouldn’t even notice this…

 

[91RS]

The 2020 I was thinking about going to look at this weekend sold, which is probably a good thing since I’ve been talking crap about them since 2016 and the suspension is so similar to the 900 that it might have the same issue I have here. I still can’t decide if I want to put more money into this truck to try and fix this or not. KBB private party value in excellent condition is only $12k now. That honestly makes me sick about how much money I’ve put into this truck because I kept saying it was cheaper than a new one. I am definitely buying something low mileage next that doesn’t need to be restored/rebuilt, whenever or whatever that ends up being.

If I do try more with this truck, I believe my options are:

Play with the alignment specs.
Replace steering gear with the new aftermarket.
Raise ride height to stock front and 2” rear drop.
Fox coilovers with GM non-Mag Ride rear air shocks.

The steering gear seems like the most likely culprit since it’s the only used part that’s on the truck, but aftermarket “replacement quality” parts are usually crap, in my experience, so I’m a little nervous to spend $600 on that.

Raising the ride height may or may not help, in theory, drop knuckles are supposed to maintain the stock from geometry, but who knows. Raising the ride height may be necessary to play with the alignment, though, because the tires will probably rub a lot more with a high caster alignment (due to their physical location in the wheel wells, they already rub now but I remember figuring out the current specs rub the least).

I’m not convinced the coilovers will help my issue but I found a good deal on them right now and they should give it a cushier ride that might be nice. I can swap these to a K2 if I bought one down the road (deleting the Mag ride would be one of the first two things I’d do to a K2 if I bought one since they ride so rough).

 

[j91z28d1]

To be honest, most people probably wouldn’t even notice this…

I grew up driving cars with wore out steering boxes and probably every povit point. so yeah, I honestly wouldn't even notice the being tried part. I just get used to sloppy steering pretty quickly. going from my old 96 to a rack car always took a bit to not over correct. but I didn't have to think about it.


is this something you can notice straight away? if so.. just go test drive something close to your year and see if it does it too.

it wouldn't surprise me if it does but then again, you're lowered and I've noticed over the years anytime to go messing with ride height, everyone gets worse. I absolutely hate the trend of raising the front of every new truck a week after buying it, because it needs "leveled"and then as soon as they accelerate up the on ramps they look like ass daggers from South Carolina. makes them wander around at high speed too.

that said, maybe raise the back up and give it a factory rake and see how it does

 

[91RS]

I do not believe it is something I can notice immediately, it seems like I need to be on the highway for over an hour before it starts bothering me and we don’t that often. There is also the possibility that it is very road dependent. The stretch of highway I drive to work is pretty fresh so I don’t think it’s very noticeable there and I really only take it to work when I need to do something to it.

 

[fredcook]

Interesting thread. And it sucks when after replacing everything, an issue persists.

My experience with Gen 3/900... currently have a 2008 LTZ and 2012 Z71 Tahoe. The '13 is stock since new with MagneRide and rear auto level. The Z71 went through a few changes since new. Stock to leveling, then to 4" lift, shock upgrades, and tire size increases. So far we've put 170k on the '13 and 260k on the '08. They roll true and straight. I swear I could fall asleep on a straight west Texas highway and they would never leave the road. BTW, for referance, the '13 has BFG Advantage T/A's, the '08 has BFG KO2 A/T's. We get over 50k miles on the T/A's, about 50k on the A/T's. Always very even wear. We also owned another Z71, put 310k miles on it. It also tracked straight. I will say, though, when we got the Z71's new with Goodyears on them, they would suffer from tramlining like crazy. I swapped those tires literally when they less than a couple thousand miles on them .

Sooo... long shot, outside of the box...

Has the truck been in any accidents? Does it dog track slightly, maybe due to a hard hit or severe body twist?

 

[j91z28d1]

tramlining... that's the word for it, where it follows the road dips all over.


I do think tires have a huge effect. but also take that toe out. run zero if you can and try that