Highway driving - do you make constant corrections or can you relax?

[91RS]

I am about fed up with spending money on this truck. On our 2013 Escalade ESV, when I drive it around town or on a short highway drive, it is great. If I drive it on a long highway drive, I get fatigued after an hour to an hour and a half from having to make constant corrections and be on high alert to keep it in the lane. It was a bit windy when we drove back from Florida last time and it was actually a fight to keep it on the road. I was completely exhausted when we got home. I was shopping for Navigators every time we stopped for gas. I haven't driven my 2008 SWB Escalade on a long trip in years since we got this one but I do not remember it being that way and I don't remember our old 2012 Yukon Denali being this way either. Here's the kicker though, both trucks have nearly identical suspension, and I have replaced EVERYTHING, mostly with OEM parts. After the trip to Florida, I decided it would still be best to spend more money on this truck rather than buying a $50k vehicle. I replaced the front shocks that had never been replaced (because they weren't leaking or locked up), changed the lower control arms to the aluminum arms (thinking reduce unsprung weight), changed the upper control arms again because the bushings had some cracking starting, and bought a set of the forged Escalade V wheels (also to reduce unsprung weight). I think I also ended up getting a tire or two warrantied for high roadforce (which shouldn't have anything to do with it driving straight). I thought it drove better, and maybe it is a little better, but I drove it for 1.5 hours yesterday and was annoyed.

I have replaced all eight front and rear control arms with new OEM, new OEM all four shocks, OEM front springs, upper strut mounts, 2" Belltech drop knuckles, Maxtrac 4" rear springs, Spohn Panhard bar, Hellwig sway-bars, used steering gear from a 30k mile truck, new OEM inner and outer tie-rods, new OEM upper and lower steering shaft, new OEM steering column, new OEM steering wheel, OEM Escalade V forged wheels, Michelin Defender LTX tires. I also replaced the steering gear bushings with the gel filled ones from the K2 trucks that reduced the tire vibrations. The alignment is "perfect," I set it up with -0.3* of camber hoping it would track a little better. I have thought about experimenting with the alignment specs and changing the caster or something but we take so few drives that are long enough to notice, I'm not sure how long it would take to tell if it worked or not.

The only thing the truck has going on that might be related is there is a bumping feeling in the steering when you turn, it has pretty much had this since we bought it. I have replaced everything, so I'm not sure what it is. I replaced the column with a used one, then another used one I put new bearings in, and then the current brand new OEM one trying to fix it. I replaced the clock spring also thinking it was that. I found the upper steering shaft was seized when I replaced the column the first time and did that at the same time. Then I replaced the lower steering shaft and put in the used steering gear I found. If a part is at fault, the steering gear seems to be the most likely culprit since it was a junkyard part, but I want to say the truck the used steering gear came front was wrecked in the rear (I looked for that specifically) but I have a feeling that the amount of play that could cause this concern is very small and would be very difficult to notice. GM has discontinued the GM reman gear so the aftermarket new ones or trying to find another low mileage used one would be the only options. I did find it interesting that the Edelmann and BBB Industries gears claim to be updated/fixed "if applicable" and one has 3 turns lock to lock and the other is 3.25 turns.

I'm just tired but we're kind of stuck because there are no other options for a replacement other than an Expedition Max or Navigator L and as much as I'm tired of GM's crap with not supporting the cars they've sold. I just keep getting a feeling every time I think about it that a Ford will be plagued with constant little issues all of the time just like the GM, but the magazines have all said the Ford's drive better than the GM's for years so maybe it's worth it? If I'm going to still be plagued with issues, I'd rather buy a GLS but I don't think that's going to be enough room. I've been so adamantly against the K2 trucks for years but the T1's are so bad that I've wondered if an 18-20 and immediately deleting the Mag Ride would make me happy and I'll just deal with the plague like I have been, but I've spent so much money on this truck with all the paint and all the repairs that I feel like I shouldn't give up on it now. The paint is just starting to go on the passenger side (but paint is still a horrible problem with the K2, so no guarantee I'd get away from that) so that will need doing as well. I think I'd like to fix this, if I can...

 

[ivin74]

I was under the impression the 13s had a rack and pinion. Is that not the case

 

[91RS]

I was under the impression the 13s had a rack and pinion. Is that not the case

They do, yes.

 

[Charlie207]

Is there a mod to change the PS pump pulley, to lessen the assist?

 

[Scrappycrow]

My '13 LTZ 2WD with ~195K, on 80% worn stock-size Defender LTX M/Ss, and all-original suspension (AFAIK) does not have the issues you're describing. I wish it had more caster, though, as the return-to-center force is much less than my preference (I always increase it on my vehicles).

 

[Scrappycrow]

Is there a mod to change the PS pump pulley, to lessen the assist?

Increasing pulley size is possible, but there's the risk of lowering the output enough at idle that low-speed steering could be negatively affected.

The preferable way would be to use a kit like this, which I've done on other GM pumps. It's not clear if this will work on our GMT900s, though.

 

[91RS]

Do you have a Tahoe or Suburban? I was wondering if it might have something to do with the long wheel base, either the more weight or that it has more area to be a sail in the wind.

 

[91RS]

Increasing pulley size is possible, but there's the risk of lowering the output enough at idle that low-speed steering could be negatively affected.

The preferable way would be to use a kit like this, which I've done on other GM pumps. It's not clear if this will work on our GMT900s, though.

That’s an interesting idea.

 

[Doubeleive]

I am about fed up with spending money on this truck. On our 2013 Escalade ESV, when I drive it around town or on a short highway drive, it is great. If I drive it on a long highway drive, I get fatigued after an hour to an hour and a half from having to make constant corrections and be on high alert to keep it in the lane. It was a bit windy when we drove back from Florida last time and it was actually a fight to keep it on the road. I was completely exhausted when we got home. I was shopping for Navigators every time we stopped for gas. I haven't driven my 2008 SWB Escalade on a long trip in years since we got this one but I do not remember it being that way and I don't remember our old 2012 Yukon Denali being this way either. Here's the kicker though, both trucks have nearly identical suspension, and I have replaced EVERYTHING, mostly with OEM parts. After the trip to Florida, I decided it would still be best to spend more money on this truck rather than buying a $50k vehicle. I replaced the front shocks that had never been replaced (because they weren't leaking or locked up), changed the lower control arms to the aluminum arms (thinking reduce unsprung weight), changed the upper control arms again because the bushings had some cracking starting, and bought a set of the forged Escalade V wheels (also to reduce unsprung weight). I think I also ended up getting a tire or two warrantied for high roadforce (which shouldn't have anything to do with it driving straight). I thought it drove better, and maybe it is a little better, but I drove it for 1.5 hours yesterday and was annoyed.

I have replaced all eight front and rear control arms with new OEM, new OEM all four shocks, OEM front springs, upper strut mounts, 2" Belltech drop knuckles, Maxtrac 4" rear springs, Spohn Panhard bar, Hellwig sway-bars, used steering gear from a 30k mile truck, new OEM inner and outer tie-rods, new OEM upper and lower steering shaft, new OEM steering column, new OEM steering wheel, OEM Escalade V forged wheels, Michelin Defender LTX tires. I also replaced the steering gear bushings with the gel filled ones from the K2 trucks that reduced the tire vibrations. The alignment is "perfect," I set it up with -0.3* of camber hoping it would track a little better. I have thought about experimenting with the alignment specs and changing the caster or something but we take so few drives that are long enough to notice, I'm not sure how long it would take to tell if it worked or not.

The only thing the truck has going on that might be related is there is a bumping feeling in the steering when you turn, it has pretty much had this since we bought it. I have replaced everything, so I'm not sure what it is. I replaced the column with a used one, then another used one I put new bearings in, and then the current brand new OEM one trying to fix it. I replaced the clock spring also thinking it was that. I found the upper steering shaft was seized when I replaced the column the first time and did that at the same time. Then I replaced the lower steering shaft and put in the used steering gear I found. If a part is at fault, the steering gear seems to be the most likely culprit since it was a junkyard part, but I want to say the truck the used steering gear came front was wrecked in the rear (I looked for that specifically) but I have a feeling that the amount of play that could cause this concern is very small and would be very difficult to notice. GM has discontinued the GM reman gear so the aftermarket new ones or trying to find another low mileage used one would be the only options. I did find it interesting that the Edelmann and BBB Industries gears claim to be updated/fixed "if applicable" and one has 3 turns lock to lock and the other is 3.25 turns.

I'm just tired but we're kind of stuck because there are no other options for a replacement other than an Expedition Max or Navigator L and as much as I'm tired of GM's crap with not supporting the cars they've sold. I just keep getting a feeling every time I think about it that a Ford will be plagued with constant little issues all of the time just like the GM, but the magazines have all said the Ford's drive better than the GM's for years so maybe it's worth it? If I'm going to still be plagued with issues, I'd rather buy a GLS but I don't think that's going to be enough room. I've been so adamantly against the K2 trucks for years but the T1's are so bad that I've wondered if an 18-20 and immediately deleting the Mag Ride would make me happy and I'll just deal with the plague like I have been, but I've spent so much money on this truck with all the paint and all the repairs that I feel like I shouldn't give up on it now. The paint is just starting to go on the passenger side (but paint is still a horrible problem with the K2, so no guarantee I'd get away from that) so that will need doing as well. I think I'd like to fix this, if I can...

I can pretty much just let mine drive down the road unassisted in most cases.
I think you just need a good alignment shop or take it to the dealer and have there alignment guy take a look at it, I figure that is usually the best solution since that's all the do all day long...............
explain your issue and have the alignment guy drive it
if you are doing the alignment yourself that's great an all, but maybe a fresh set of eye's can see something different.

 

[Charlie207]

Increasing pulley size is possible, but there's the risk of lowering the output enough at idle that low-speed steering could be negatively affected.

The preferable way would be to use a kit like this, which I've done on other GM pumps. It's not clear if this will work on our GMT900s, though.

Maybe it's just me, but I've never once felt like the power-assist at parking lot/stopped speeds was anywhere near difficult. It could be 2x less-assisted and still be the same as any other car I've driven.

 

[91RS]

I can pretty much just let mine drive down the road unassisted in most cases.
I think you just need a good alignment shop or take it to the dealer and have there alignment guy take a look at it, I figure that is usually the best solution since that's all the do all day long...............
explain your issue and have the alignment guy drive it
if you are doing the alignment yourself that's great an all, but maybe a fresh set of eye's can see something different.

That guy would be me.

 

[91RS]

Here’s the last alignment.

I suppose I could try giving it more caster, I've never really tried that. Google's AI says:

"More caster, specifically more positive caster, generally improves a vehicle's straight-line stability and steering feel, making it more resistant to wandering at higher speeds and providing a more planted, confident driving experience. However, it can also increase steering effort, particularly at low speeds."

 

[Charlie207]

Here’s the last alignment.

I suppose I could try giving it more caster, I've never really tried that. Google's AI says:

"More caster, specifically more positive caster, generally improves a vehicle's straight-line stability and steering feel, making it more resistant to wandering at higher speeds and providing a more planted, confident driving experience. However, it can also increase steering effort, particularly at low speeds."

View attachment 462388

Do you have wider tires or spacers in the rear?

 

[91RS]

No. They're stock size, 285/45/22 Michelin Defender LTX 2.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I am about fed up with spending money on this truck. On our 2013 Escalade ESV, when I drive it around town or on a short highway drive, it is great. If I drive it on a long highway drive, I get fatigued after an hour to an hour and a half from having to make constant corrections and be on high alert to keep it in the lane. It was a bit windy when we drove back from Florida last time and it was actually a fight to keep it on the road. I was completely exhausted when we got home. I was shopping for Navigators every time we stopped for gas. I haven't driven my 2008 SWB Escalade on a long trip in years since we got this one but I do not remember it being that way and I don't remember our old 2012 Yukon Denali being this way either. Here's the kicker though, both trucks have nearly identical suspension, and I have replaced EVERYTHING, mostly with OEM parts. After the trip to Florida, I decided it would still be best to spend more money on this truck rather than buying a $50k vehicle. I replaced the front shocks that had never been replaced (because they weren't leaking or locked up), changed the lower control arms to the aluminum arms (thinking reduce unsprung weight), changed the upper control arms again because the bushings had some cracking starting, and bought a set of the forged Escalade V wheels (also to reduce unsprung weight). I think I also ended up getting a tire or two warrantied for high roadforce (which shouldn't have anything to do with it driving straight). I thought it drove better, and maybe it is a little better, but I drove it for 1.5 hours yesterday and was annoyed.

I have replaced all eight front and rear control arms with new OEM, new OEM all four shocks, OEM front springs, upper strut mounts, 2" Belltech drop knuckles, Maxtrac 4" rear springs, Spohn Panhard bar, Hellwig sway-bars, used steering gear from a 30k mile truck, new OEM inner and outer tie-rods, new OEM upper and lower steering shaft, new OEM steering column, new OEM steering wheel, OEM Escalade V forged wheels, Michelin Defender LTX tires. I also replaced the steering gear bushings with the gel filled ones from the K2 trucks that reduced the tire vibrations. The alignment is "perfect," I set it up with -0.3* of camber hoping it would track a little better. I have thought about experimenting with the alignment specs and changing the caster or something but we take so few drives that are long enough to notice, I'm not sure how long it would take to tell if it worked or not.

The only thing the truck has going on that might be related is there is a bumping feeling in the steering when you turn, it has pretty much had this since we bought it. I have replaced everything, so I'm not sure what it is. I replaced the column with a used one, then another used one I put new bearings in, and then the current brand new OEM one trying to fix it. I replaced the clock spring also thinking it was that. I found the upper steering shaft was seized when I replaced the column the first time and did that at the same time. Then I replaced the lower steering shaft and put in the used steering gear I found. If a part is at fault, the steering gear seems to be the most likely culprit since it was a junkyard part, but I want to say the truck the used steering gear came front was wrecked in the rear (I looked for that specifically) but I have a feeling that the amount of play that could cause this concern is very small and would be very difficult to notice. GM has discontinued the GM reman gear so the aftermarket new ones or trying to find another low mileage used one would be the only options. I did find it interesting that the Edelmann and BBB Industries gears claim to be updated/fixed "if applicable" and one has 3 turns lock to lock and the other is 3.25 turns.

I'm just tired but we're kind of stuck because there are no other options for a replacement other than an Expedition Max or Navigator L and as much as I'm tired of GM's crap with not supporting the cars they've sold. I just keep getting a feeling every time I think about it that a Ford will be plagued with constant little issues all of the time just like the GM, but the magazines have all said the Ford's drive better than the GM's for years so maybe it's worth it? If I'm going to still be plagued with issues, I'd rather buy a GLS but I don't think that's going to be enough room. I've been so adamantly against the K2 trucks for years but the T1's are so bad that I've wondered if an 18-20 and immediately deleting the Mag Ride would make me happy and I'll just deal with the plague like I have been, but I've spent so much money on this truck with all the paint and all the repairs that I feel like I shouldn't give up on it now. The paint is just starting to go on the passenger side (but paint is still a horrible problem with the K2, so no guarantee I'd get away from that) so that will need doing as well. I think I'd like to fix this, if I can...

Does your 2013 Escalade have an EVO component in the power steering equipment? I thought that the GM EVO steering enhancement disaster was long gone (had it in my 1997 with the exact same symptoms as you, and I deleted it with a GM delete kit), but apparently, maybe not. If you have this EVO component in your Escalade, delete it now, and most likely your issue will be gone.

****

EVO steering, an abbreviation for Electronic Variable Orifice steering, is a type of speed-sensitive power steering system.

Some 2013 Cadillac Escalade models, such as the EXT, were equipped with a power steering pump that featured an EVO component. However, some replacement power steering pumps for the 2013 Escalade EXT are sold without the EVO component. Additionally, some power steering pumps for the 2013 Escalade are supplied without the EVO bypass tube, suggesting that some models did not have this feature as standard.

****

 

[91RS]

As far as I knew, none of the GMT-900 trucks had EVO steering. I have personally never seen one if they exist. Mine definitely does not. If it is variable in some way, it isn't electronic.

 

[mattbta]

Not sure if it applies to the NNBS but my NBS with the centerlink installed incorrectly would wander everywhere on the highway and was miserable. Once corrected, back to normal.

 

[Doubeleive]

Here’s the last alignment.

I suppose I could try giving it more caster, I've never really tried that. Google's AI says:

"More caster, specifically more positive caster, generally improves a vehicle's straight-line stability and steering feel, making it more resistant to wandering at higher speeds and providing a more planted, confident driving experience. However, it can also increase steering effort, particularly at low speeds."

View attachment 462388

This is my most recent one after I rebuilt the front end, new upper/lower/ in/out tie rods

 

[j91z28d1]

I'd agree it's probably alignment. there's literally no good alignment shops. all I can say is try to find one that will let you be there while they do it. fancy equipment doesn't help, since techs can't read instructions these days. same with balancing tires.. 99% of all balancers are set to static balance less then 4in wide, just to make a quick balance job. not a an hour job to do a full dynamic balance.


byond that, the factory tires are pretty wide, I would suspect they follow the road groves. depending on brand of course, like sports car tires run all over the place on the roads from it. especially when it's interstates that see a lot of 18 wheeler traffic.



I will say mine goes dead straight with no effort but is very easy to turn. all stock 170k parts, but I had to adjust the alignment myself, but only toe. rest was ok still after the alignment, they didn't mess anything else up. but my Denali had the 265/70/17 and soft sidewall Continentals. and the odd ball hybrid electric rack without a power steering pump, so I'm probably no help. but suspect tires and or alignment.

 

[91RS]

Not sure if it applies to the NNBS but my NBS with the centerlink installed incorrectly would wander everywhere on the highway and was miserable. Once corrected, back to normal.

That does cause huge problems but the 900 trucks all have rack and pinion steering gears.