Metal in oil

[HD_LS]

Great Job! And under bad working conditions!

 

[87carl]

Thanks I think around 175 thousand miles maybe not sure the information square in the tach never lights up and gear indicator in speedo is very dim used to be able to smack dash and get them to light up but that don't even do it anymore. I gotta figure that out and fix it been a low priority problem. Didn't get alot more done yet tonight between family drama and we'll pump issues I got kinda sidetracked. hopefully I can finish it tomorrow I still don't know what I am going to do about a crank relearn procedure. I gotta get this truck done fast. My dad has alot of health issues and I gotta take him to appointments and stuff and the dodges have too rough of suspension and hurt him. and they don't have steps to help him get in so keeping this one running is very important. He is in hospital right now but should hopefully be getting out in day or 2 and will need a way home. That's why rain or not I am trying. If it was one of the dodges I would have waited till I had good weather and more spare time. The dodge tailgate helped with leaning over the front of the burb alot.

 

[iamdub]

That engine has had metal particles all through it. Between the journals and bearings, in the lifters, between the cam lobes and lifter rollers- anywhere oil flows.

Having said that, I'd replace the tensioner and let 'er rip. For the first start, use cheap oil and a good filter, run it for about 10 minutes, let it sit for a few hours then drain it, letting it drain for about half an hour. Refill with more cheap oil and run it for about 20-30 minutes. Let it sit for a couple of hours then drain it for half an hour. Refill with a good oil and install another good filter and continue with a normal oil change interval.

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks I think around 175 thousand miles maybe not sure the information square in the tach never lights up and gear indicator in speedo is very dim used to be able to smack dash and get them to light up but that don't even do it anymore. I gotta figure that out and fix it been a low priority problem. Didn't get alot more done yet tonight between family drama and we'll pump issues I got kinda sidetracked. hopefully I can finish it tomorrow I still don't know what I am going to do about a crank relearn procedure. I gotta get this truck done fast. My dad has alot of health issues and I gotta take him to appointments and stuff and the dodges have too rough of suspension and hurt him. and they don't have steps to help him get in so keeping this one running is very important. He is in hospital right now but should hopefully be getting out in day or 2 and will need a way home. That's why rain or not I am trying. If it was one of the dodges I would have waited till I had good weather and more spare time. The dodge tailgate helped with leaning over the front of the burb alot.

If you can clean that sensor up real well, you may not need to replace it and that way be able to skip the relearn procedure. Alternatively, where are you located? Maybe there's a member on here nearby with a Tech2 scanner you can borrow.

Impressive work getting that done in the pouring rain. Good on ya for looking after your dad.

 

[Bill 1960]

Good job on that, and fortunate to be just minor if that’s the extent of it. I would expect the pressurized side of the lube system to be protected by the filter, unless it got clogged enough to go into bypass.

 

[Geotrash]

Good job on that, and fortunate to be just minor if that’s the extent of it. I would expect the pressurized side of the lube system to be protected by the filter, unless it got clogged enough to go into bypass.

I agree. Very likely that the filter protected the engine from significant damage, as long as it didn't go into bypass.

 

[87carl]

That engine has had metal particles all through it. Between the journals and bearings, in the lifters, between the cam lobes and lifter rollers- anywhere oil flows.

Having said that, I'd replace the tensioner and let 'er rip. For the first start, use cheap oil and a good filter, run it for about 10 minutes, let it sit for a few hours then drain it, letting it drain for about half an hour. Refill with more cheap oil and run it for about 20-30 minutes. Let it sit for a couple of hours then drain it for half an hour. Refill with a good oil and install another good filter and continue with a normal oil change interval.

Should I change filters each time?
And how would I know if It was able to get past the filter bypass.
And I live in western ny state. Near letchworth state parks southern end.

 

[Geotrash]

Should I change filters each time?
And how would I know if It was able to get past the filter bypass.
And I live in western ny state. Near letchworth state parks southern end.

Yes, definitely change the oil filter each time. You will likely still be catching metal in the oil filter for a while yet and you don't want it to go into bypass. No way to tell if the previous filter went into bypass without opening it up and getting a good look at the filter media. Even then, it's not conclusive and wouldn't likely change your next steps anyway, since your goal is to get it running and see where you're at. If any damage was done, it's already done, so might as well run it. Chances are, you're okay.

Again, before replacing the crank position sensor, I'd pull the original and give it a thorough cleaning. That way, you probably won't need to go through the relearn to begin with.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Wow good save, I hope it works out well for a long time.

 

[iamdub]

Should I change filters each time?
And how would I know if It was able to get past the filter bypass.
And I live in western ny state. Near letchworth state parks southern end.

Yes. I skipped that on the second change- my fault for trying to think after sundown. Although it may be a waste, it's cheap insurance. You can use cheap oil for the flushing, but you should ALWAYS use a quality filter.

Just for your info, you can cut open the original filter and try to determine if it bypassed. You'd know at that point the general size of metal particles that went through the engine. If just metal "dust", then you lost some bearing life. If chunks, you might could get a clogged lifter, pushrod, etc. one day.


Side note: Now I'm wondering if you should stick some strong magnets to the bottom of the pan or to the filter to help pull the particles outta the oil, at least for the first couple of flushing oil changes. Computer hard drive magnets are small and strong. I'll have to research this...

 

[Foggy]

I have replaced Crank Sensors before and NOT done the relearn procedure and
all was fine... It's prob a hit or miss thing... But it should run fine

I'd replace it as opposed to cleaning it... You are already there with the starter
out to get to it AND it might just be worn out as well as the metal issue too

 

[87carl]

What would be best way to clean crank sensor? And do you think cow magnets are strong enough I have some of them. I might have a old computer somewhere I will have to look. I will grab some cheap walmart oil and some fram oil filters when I go to town to visit my dad.

 

[Rocket Man]

What would be best way to clean crank sensor? And do you think cow magnets are strong enough I have some of them. I might have a old computer somewhere I will have to look. I will grab some cheap walmart oil and some fram oil filters when I go to town to visit my dad.

Hoping for the best for you, your truck and your dad. You have determination that’s for sure. You’ve received some good information here.

 

[87carl]

Thank you. glad I cought it before it killed the motor praying didn't do much long term damage to any bearings or anything. Is anything else other than crank sensor magnetic inside the engine?

 

[87carl]

Been busy taking care of dad so the suburban has been sitting in pieces. Finally had time to get the motor together. Cranked it with coils unhooked to prime oil plugged them in and it fired up instantly. But the number 1 cylinder has a bad lifter tick now. Draining oil for first flush change now. Hopefully it will stop ticking after couple changes flushing it. Found a new motor but waiting for guy to pull it and want to rebuild it before it can go in hopefully this will be ok till then

 

[Geotrash]

Most likely the lifter bled off oil pressure, and hopefully will come back up.


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[87carl]

Most likely the lifter bled off oil pressure, and hopefully will come back up.


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That's what I was wondering. Isn't that one of the afm lifters?

 

[Geotrash]

Yes, cylinders 1, 4, 6 & 7 are AFM cylinders. That said, it's almost impossible to tell which lifter or even which cylinder is making the noise. When I had a failed lifter immediately after a cam swap, it sounded like it was coming from #1 but was actually #6. Go figure.

One diagnostic you can do easily is pull the drivers side valve cover and look for a loose rocker if it doesn't settle down on its own.

 

[thompsoj22]

Just got front cover off found the problem timing chain tensioner came apart. And the mangled piece in second picture was between oil pump and crank sprocket grinding on sprocket. So aslong as the metal in the oil didn't damage any bearings or anything it should hopefully be alright? Still gotta drop the differential and steering rack to get oil pan off. Sorry pics are dark phones dying and I'm under a tarp it's pouring out.


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Holy shit! Great work given the conditions you are working in, Reminds me of me! Hey JMO but given the conditions you are working in you may consider simply flushing the pan by pouring diesel fuel down the front cover and flushing the pan that way. Laying and assembling in "mud" wont be the cleanest finished result anyway. Just consider it? i mean a couple gallons as fast as you can pour it in, to wash the windage tray and flush the pan through the drain plug. Your oil pump is for sure damaged.

 

[87carl]

Yes, cylinders 1, 4, 6 & 7 are AFM cylinders. That said, it's almost impossible to tell which lifter or even which cylinder is making the noise. When I had a failed lifter immediately after a cam swap, it sounded like it was coming from #1 but was actually #6. Go figure.

One diagnostic you can do easily is pull the drivers side valve cover and look for a loose rocker if it doesn't settle down on its own.

Holy shit! Great work given the conditions you are working in, Reminds me of me! Hey JMO but given the conditions you are working in you may consider simply flushing the pan by pouring diesel fuel down the front cover and flushing the pan that way. Laying and assembling in "mud" wont be the cleanest finished result anyway. Just consider it? i mean a couple gallons as fast as you can pour it in, to wash the windage tray and flush the pan through the drain plug. Your oil pump is for sure damaged.

It quieted down after second oil flush ran in for a While. Didn't think to try diesel fuel but with it ticking second flush I stuck 3 quarts of 15w 40 1 quart lucas and 1 quart atf. Started thick and light pink came out dark pinkish brown still getting metal on the magnet but oil is looking better coming out. Running great no codes but can't get it inspected yet because o2 sensor and o2 sensor heater and evap readiness monitors won't set. Evap almost never does on this burb. but normally o2 monitors will set so idk why it won't. Drove over 200 miles already. Only theory I have is morning before I did oil change that lead to all this, I deleted the resonators off the parts burbs intake tube and swapped it on also opened holes between filter box and fender. Basically a ugly but free cold air intake. Worked surprisingly well. This burb usually struggles climbing the hill if taking right out of our driveway before would barely do 55 going up it after doing intake it was able to hit 70 by time I got to the top. didn't expect that only expected more noise lol. Idk if that is messing with o2s? I've had cold air intakes cause lean codes on other vehicles. Later I will swap stock tube back on temporarily and see if they will set.