What is a good list of "While you're in there" for DOD delete

[thefrey]

I miiiiiight do a DOD delete...

Thinking about just pulling the engine to do a DOD delete since it would be easier.

What would be good to refresh while it's out?

Timing chain, oil pump, new gaskets, new main rear seal, new metal barbell..

What are some things worth replacing? 213k miles. Not sure if it would be worth touching any bearings while it's out or anything like that... I have never done anything like this before so I am heading new territory here.

Stage 2 cam and headers kind of sounds like a good idea if you ask me, though...

TIA

 

[rdezs]

Since you have it out, and that that mileage I would do the cam bearings, rods and mains. You can clean up the Pistons if the bores look good, and install new rings. (But since it's out, I would replace the Pistons and go up one size, have it bored to match)

Everything depends on your intentions with the vehicle. Whether you're keeping it forever.... Or just want it to last a while.

 

[donjetman]

new crankshaft pulley/balancer. The rubber holding the 2 pieces together don't last forever.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

If you remove the motor, pull the oil pan and replace the O-ring and install a 2 bolt retainer clip upgrade, to hopefully better stabilize the O-ring and make it last longer.

Remove the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan, and replace it with an aftermarket plug (commonly available), as it was needed only for the AFM.

 

[thefrey]

If you remove the motor, pull the oil pan and replace the O-ring and install a 2 bolt retainer clip upgrade, to hopefully better stabilize the O-ring and make it last longer.

Remove the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan, and replace it with an aftermarket plug (commonly available), as it was needed only for the AFM.

I think I need to pull the pan regardless to replace the aftermarket plug, yeah? I didn’t think I could leave it in at all.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

"I think I need to pull the pan regardless to replace the aftermarket plug, yeah? I didn’t think I could leave it in at all."

Not sure what you mean here. What aftermarket plug are you referring to, and are you implying that one already exists in your oil pan?

 

[thefrey]

"I think I need to pull the pan regardless to replace the aftermarket plug, yeah? I didn’t think I could leave it in at all."

Not sure what you mean here. What aftermarket plug are you referring to, and are you implying that one already exists in your oil pan?

Brain didn’t brain there.

I meant I need to replace the stock relief plug with an aftermarket plug regardless, correct? I didn’t think I could leave the stock plug in.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Brain didn’t brain there.

I meant I need to replace the stock relief plug with an aftermarket plug regardless, correct? I didn’t think I could leave the stock plug in.

If you are referring to the oil pressure relieve valve, screwed right into the oil pan itself, then yes (but it is not currently a plug, but instead it is an overpressure relief valve associated directly with the AFM system), remove the overpressure relief valve, and install an aftermarket pre-made threaded plug. It is available at many online aftermarket parts web sites, but for sure at summitracing.com and texasspeed.com.

 

[thefrey]

If you are referring to the oil pressure relieve valve, screwed right into the oil pan itself, then yes (but it is not currently a plug, but instead it is an overpressure relief valve associated directly with the AFM system), remove the overpressure relief valve, and install an aftermarket pre-made threaded plug. It is available at many online aftermarket parts web sites, but for sure at summitracing.com and texasspeed.com.

Yes, that’s what I’m referring to. I replaced “plug” (relief valve) when I replaced my o-ring.

Honestly, it’s one of the main drivers for me wanting to pull the engine. It’s a ton of work with AWD. And I’ll probably do a new oil pump and timing chain too. And then might as well replace the torque converter too lol

 

[SpareParts]

It's not that hard. I did it a few months ago. The only PITA bolts are the top two transmission bell housing bolts.
With the intake manifold off you can get to them with a wrench.

 

[thefrey]

It's not that hard. I did it a few months ago. The only PITA bolts are the top two transmission bell housing bolts.
With the intake manifold off you can get to them with a wrench.

Yeah. I feel like in the time that it would take me to drop the diff and get the pan off that I could have the engine out and it would make my life way easier.

 

[SpareParts]

You do not have to remove the diff to get the pan off. Just take the pass axle off and the two bolts holding the diff in on that side. The driver side just loosen the bolts so the diff will drop a little
It will take all day to get the engine out. Dropping the pan and putting it all back together will only take 5 ish hours if you stick with it.
Taking it out also has advantages!

 

[donjetman]

I can have my pan off in 2 hrs and I do drop the front diff. I've done it 3 times over the yrs and will do it again next summer if not sooner.
Taking the transfer case and tranny out is a bigger deal. I did it 7 yrs ago to do the rms job and replace the tc and associated seals.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Yes, that’s what I’m referring to. I replaced “plug” (relief valve) when I replaced my o-ring.

Honestly, it’s one of the main drivers for me wanting to pull the engine. It’s a ton of work with AWD. And I’ll probably do a new oil pump and timing chain too. And then might as well replace the torque converter too lol

OK. Understood. This time, if you remove the oil pan, you want to 'delete' this relief this newer valve, by replacing it with a true 'plug'.

Yes, timing chain and gears for sure, if you open up the front, and it can't hurt to replace the oil pump, as well.

This is what is meant by 'scope creep'.

 

[NYBRD]

If pulling motor out , def throw in a new torque converter thats what I did with my tahoe @ 75k miles when a dod lifter went on me

 

[petethepug]

Replace OEM cam needle bearing with trunnion bearings. Especially is upping the cam.