Metal in oil
- Thread starter 87carl
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OP
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87carl
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Thanks I think around 175 thousand miles maybe not sure the information square in the tach never lights up and gear indicator in speedo is very dim used to be able to smack dash and get them to light up but that don't even do it anymore. I gotta figure that out and fix it been a low priority problem. Didn't get alot more done yet tonight between family drama and we'll pump issues I got kinda sidetracked. hopefully I can finish it tomorrow I still don't know what I am going to do about a crank relearn procedure. I gotta get this truck done fast. My dad has alot of health issues and I gotta take him to appointments and stuff and the dodges have too rough of suspension and hurt him. and they don't have steps to help him get in so keeping this one running is very important. He is in hospital right now but should hopefully be getting out in day or 2 and will need a way home. That's why rain or not I am trying. If it was one of the dodges I would have waited till I had good weather and more spare time. The dodge tailgate helped with leaning over the front of the burb alot.
iamdub
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That engine has had metal particles all through it. Between the journals and bearings, in the lifters, between the cam lobes and lifter rollers- anywhere oil flows.
Having said that, I'd replace the tensioner and let 'er rip. For the first start, use cheap oil and a good filter, run it for about 10 minutes, let it sit for a few hours then drain it, letting it drain for about half an hour. Refill with more cheap oil and run it for about 20-30 minutes. Let it sit for a couple of hours then drain it for half an hour. Refill with a good oil and install another good filter and continue with a normal oil change interval.
Having said that, I'd replace the tensioner and let 'er rip. For the first start, use cheap oil and a good filter, run it for about 10 minutes, let it sit for a few hours then drain it, letting it drain for about half an hour. Refill with more cheap oil and run it for about 20-30 minutes. Let it sit for a couple of hours then drain it for half an hour. Refill with a good oil and install another good filter and continue with a normal oil change interval.
If you can clean that sensor up real well, you may not need to replace it and that way be able to skip the relearn procedure. Alternatively, where are you located? Maybe there's a member on here nearby with a Tech2 scanner you can borrow.
Impressive work getting that done in the pouring rain. Good on ya for looking after your dad.
I agree. Very likely that the filter protected the engine from significant damage, as long as it didn't go into bypass.
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87carl
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Should I change filters each time?
And how would I know if It was able to get past the filter bypass.
And I live in western ny state. Near letchworth state parks southern end.
Yes, definitely change the oil filter each time. You will likely still be catching metal in the oil filter for a while yet and you don't want it to go into bypass. No way to tell if the previous filter went into bypass without opening it up and getting a good look at the filter media. Even then, it's not conclusive and wouldn't likely change your next steps anyway, since your goal is to get it running and see where you're at. If any damage was done, it's already done, so might as well run it. Chances are, you're okay.
Again, before replacing the crank position sensor, I'd pull the original and give it a thorough cleaning. That way, you probably won't need to go through the relearn to begin with.
Dantheman1540
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Wow good save, I hope it works out well for a long time.
iamdub
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Yes. I skipped that on the second change- my fault for trying to think after sundown. Although it may be a waste, it's cheap insurance. You can use cheap oil for the flushing, but you should ALWAYS use a quality filter.
Just for your info, you can cut open the original filter and try to determine if it bypassed. You'd know at that point the general size of metal particles that went through the engine. If just metal "dust", then you lost some bearing life. If chunks, you might could get a clogged lifter, pushrod, etc. one day.
Side note: Now I'm wondering if you should stick some strong magnets to the bottom of the pan or to the filter to help pull the particles outta the oil, at least for the first couple of flushing oil changes. Computer hard drive magnets are small and strong. I'll have to research this...
