Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

[iamdub]

I'd get the Kooks, even if just to flip. If their collectors are above the frame, then you'd only need to be concerned about the Y-pipe. You could sell the Kooks Y and have one custom made, probably for less than what you could sell that Y for. Then you'd still have the headers for an even bigger steal.

 

[NathanJax]

you get those 90's from Grainger yet?

 

[Rocket Man]

you get those 90's from Grainger yet?

Yes, now I’m waiting on the Swagelok fittings for the rest of the system. The only PTC fittings will be those 90’s at the manifold. I hate leaks and that left front one was the last straw. Man I wish I could change the ones at the manifold to Swageloks. Working on the Wilwoods now but our weather turned to sucky for the next week and I’m finding it hard to get excited about going outside even though I’m under cover. I just got back from having some new rear center brake lines made and decided to paint the bracket .

 

[Rocket Man]

I worked on the rear brakes about 4 hours today but had a bit of a challenge so I only got one side done. I had a feeling I might have trouble due to the nature of the conversion and the Moser axles. At first try the caliper on the DS wouldn’t even go over the rotor, it was too far to the inside. There’s shims to space it to the outside but I needed to go the other way so I had to cut the mounting ears off the inside of the aluminum mounting plate and even that wasn’t enough so I pulled the bolts that held it on and added washers behind it where it mounts to the axle flange. That did it, it went too far to the outside then and I was able to use the shims to center the caliper on the rotor by moving it back inside a bit. I also painted the center hose bracket and installed the new lines I had made earlier today. The rubber ones were stretched tight when the bags were fully aired up (which only happens when I’m jacking the truck up) and now they’re ok. I had them made 3” longer but could have gone a couple more but they’re much better. The suspension is almost never this aired up but I just wanted to be safe when it is. The red matches pretty good with the parts I painted.

 

[Sam Harris]

Much better!

 

[Bear77]

You’ll have added 40hp more when done!


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[Rocket Man]

Finished the bezel. Looks like a factory part.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Finished the bezel. Looks like a factory part.

View attachment 243451 View attachment 243452

Nice!

 

[Bear77]

Looks like a brand new bezel!


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[Rocket Man]

It looks like the headers and y-pipe will fit so I bought them. He will ship them Monday.

 

[Sam Harris]

It looks like the headers and y-pipe will fit so I bought them. He will ship them Monday.

Took you long enough..

 

[Bear77]

Took you long enough..

X2


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[Tonyrodz]

Took you long enough..

Lol, I knew which way it was going too!

 

[Rocket Man]

Took you long enough..

X2


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Lol, I knew which way it was going too!

Spent my stimulus check before I even got it lmao.

 

[Sam Harris]

Spent my stimulus check before I even got it lmao.

That’s the ticket!

 

[Rocket Man]

Got the rear brakes done but the fronts have been nothing but trouble. First, it took me an hour just to remove the driver brake line due to the fact it’s in an impossible to get to spot. The upper control arm is in the way. Then the new Wilwood adapter won’t thread to the truck hard line. I’ll have to buy new adapters from a local place. Well, I figured I’d bolt up a caliper and rotor and check clearance. It’s a stock knuckle I think but the ball joint area hits the back side of the rotor so it won’t seat on the axle all the way. I determined I need 1/4-5/16” so the plan is to use 1/4” wheel spacers between the rotor and axle flange and then grind a little on the control arm. I’ll have to use spacers on the caliper bracket too. It’s not the preferred method but I don’t know of any other. I can’t even switch to Wilwoods 14.25” rotors, same problem. The stock 13” barely clears. I don’t want my tires any closer to the fenders but I think 1/4” will be ok.

 

[Bear77]

That definitely can’t be correct...


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[Rocket Man]

That definitely can’t be correct...


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It’s correct. The front has about 14” of travel with zero camber change from aired all the way up to fully aired out. The control arms and steering is all custom made for bagged trucks. You have to remember what this suspension is asked to do.

 

[Sam Harris]

Got the rear brakes done but the fronts have been nothing but trouble. First, it took me an hour just to remove the driver brake line due to the fact it’s in an impossible to get to spot. The upper control arm is in the way. Then the new Wilwood adapter won’t thread to the truck hard line. I’ll have to buy new adapters from a local place. Well, I figured I’d bolt up a caliper and rotor and check clearance. It’s a stock knuckle I think but the ball joint area hits the back side of the rotor so it won’t seat on the axle all the way. I determined I need 1/4-5/16” so the plan is to use 1/4” wheel spacers between the rotor and axle flange and then grind a little on the control arm. I’ll have to use spacers on the caliper bracket too. It’s not the preferred method but I don’t know of any other. I can’t even switch to Wilwoods 14.25” rotors, same problem. The stock 13” barely clears. I don’t want my tires any closer to the fenders but I think 1/4” will be ok.

View attachment 243550 View attachment 243551

Suck

 

[Rocket Man]

So apparently it’s a thing with this setup- the ball joints are flipped. There’s a company called Little Shop that makes a spindle spacer kit for this. Problem is it’s 1/2” which means the wheels are pushed out 1/2”. I’m going to see if I can add the 1/4” spacers and massage the ball joint cup a little bit. If that doesn’t work I’ll buy the kit and have some material machined off the inside of the wheel hubs. I know from previous experience with the engineer at intro that it’s ok to remove 1/4” from the wheel hub. It’s just time and money, right?