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Yep.
Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
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The HVAC parts are finally stripped of chrome after about 3 weeks in the sulfuric acid. I painted them and will build the spare escutcheon to swap out. I don’t want the paint to chip on the other one and have chrome showing in the future. It’s the little things as they say.
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I just had a great idea- have a new set of front wheels made. It’s $3k and I could sell the others for $1500- $2000 in a heartbeat which would put me out the same or less than if I paid to have these fixed. And I wouldn’t have to put my truck on jack stands for a month while I sent the wheels to Cali. I thought of this right after I realized the Wilwood rotors are 1/2” thick at the hubs and my OEM are 1/4” so that pushes my wheels out a total of 3/4” which I’m afraid is just too much.
I tried to talk @NathanJax into AirLift but he never listens to me.
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The worst part is all the people who have sent their shit in for warranty repair and have been waiting for it for weeks while they cant drive their vehicles. I hear they weren’t like Airlift where they send out a unit to swap out like they did for me. I have been reading they didn’t carry stock so when you ordered and paid for stuff you had to wait weeks while they manufacture it. They had tax liens from the IRS going back years too, the documents are being uploaded to FB. And if you go to their website you can still order and pay for product. Sucks.
I have seen them deny or just not send back a replacement on defective parts when things were good.
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I spent pretty much all day on the DS front Wilwood. The spacer was super easy / remove 3 bolts, insert spacer , install 3 longer bolts and torque to 138 ft lbs. Then I temped a rotor on and moved it through full suspension range. It came within about 1/16” at its closest so I ground a bit off the lower part of the ballpoint cup. It’s a bit over 3/16” at its closest now. It’s kind of hard to see, it’s right above the wood that’s on top of the jack.
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I had tried to install an adapter on the truck side hard line the other day but couldn’t get it to start threading. The old hose was hard to unscrew the entire way to the end when I had removed it but I could get it to start threading, but not the adapters. I took them back to the place I bought them but they threaded in a fitting there just fine and the guy said they probably over tightened it which caused the flare on the line to get bigger that the inside of the threads. Anyway after 2 hours of trying I finally got it on, and finished up shimming the caliper. I installed a wheel and moved it through the entire suspension range and I think I might be ok, there’s still pretty good clearance for turning. A road test will tell.
That spacing is real close! Glad you were able to work it out for the most part
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Got the other front done today and bled the system. No pics since there’s really nothing new. I bent new lines for the rear bags so I just have 3 more to go. Can’t wait to get the wheels back on and see this thing on the ground with the Wilwoods.
We can't wait, either!
X2!
Hell yes man!!
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I got it on it’s wheels again. I decided to not use the 90 degree elbows at the manifold, they just make things too complicated so I made sure to sand the edges of the aluminum where it enters the manifold. I’m pretty sure it was the sharp edge that’s left when the tubing cutter makes its final pass that damaged the o-ring in the fitting. And don’t say anything about the plastic line that’s still there lmao. I made a (couple) mistakes bending the hard lines again so I had to order another stick. I almost made one line drop too low out of the manifold where it crosses over the driveshaft. Aired out leaves me with 1/4” to spare. It was a ***** getting the lines through the frame and links after I bent them. If you’ve ever run new brake lines you know what I mean. Twist and turn and scratch your head. Anyway I just have one left, from the filter to the manifold. It’s an easy one.
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And no leaks with the Swagelok fittings, but those aren’t easy to tighten in a tight space. Anyway here it is all aired out with Wilwoods. I’ll drive it up the street tomorrow and I’m crossing my fingers the steering at ride height is acceptable. I really don’t want to have new wheels made.
Beautiful work as always Mark. Well done. [emoji106][emoji631]
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Interior after the cluster bezel and things put back together. I haven’t decided if I’m going to hide the wire for the Airlift control. It’s mounted with a mag holder and I like being able to pull it down and hold it when I’m messing around. I guess I can use the phone ap but for setup and stuff it’s easier this way for now.
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I reached out to Roger Vinci of Vinci High Performance about a cam. I have always been impressed with his customer service and knowledge. Needless to say it will be his cam I eventually install once I decide on exactly what I want. I asked him for recommendations for a lopey cam with a badass idle to go with catless long tubes without sacrificing too much torque. I know it’s a lot especially for a 4.8 that might one day go FI but I trust him. Here’s what he had to say:
So Mark,
Glad you are enjoying the Trucker camshaft.
Your 4.8L is quite small and therefore preserving its low end torque is important. An important thing to remember is: The choppier the idle, the less low end torque an engine can produce due to cylinder pressures escaping through extended valve timing which causes the choppy idle, the need for a stall converter, lower diff gears, etc. etc. So you need to decide just how much low end torque you are willing to give up to get the idle you are looking for. I can build you cam that will provide a noticeable chop while preserving considerable low end performance, but some off idle snap will always be lose that will be made up a bit farther up the rpm band. That has and always will be the nature of an upgraded camshaft.
So Mark,
Glad you are enjoying the Trucker camshaft.
Your 4.8L is quite small and therefore preserving its low end torque is important. An important thing to remember is: The choppier the idle, the less low end torque an engine can produce due to cylinder pressures escaping through extended valve timing which causes the choppy idle, the need for a stall converter, lower diff gears, etc. etc. So you need to decide just how much low end torque you are willing to give up to get the idle you are looking for. I can build you cam that will provide a noticeable chop while preserving considerable low end performance, but some off idle snap will always be lose that will be made up a bit farther up the rpm band. That has and always will be the nature of an upgraded camshaft.
Can always hide the cable after you get things setup to where you need first
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I got the headers today. The P.O. had never even removed the shrink wrap from the powder coater. They were an awesome deal for $1050 shipped. The dog wanted to play ball but finally left me alone long enough to unwrap them.
