jerryjoe28
That Guy
Mr Metal.
that is the one with the yellow logo yes? seems like u got pretty good results out of it! any plans to ceramic coat the wheels?
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Mr Metal.
Yes and IDK about ceramic coating. Something to consider but I'm spending too much right now. Gotta slow down.that is the one with the yellow logo yes? seems like u got pretty good results out of it! any plans to ceramic coat the wheels?
Yes and IDK about ceramic coating. Something to consider but I'm spending too much right now. Gotta slow down.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TEA5PZCYou have a link to that license plate frame?
I haven't timed it but it's not 10 minutes.If you're seeing 10 minute fill times I would recommend checking compressor outputs and/or possibly adding a third compressor. I am running two 444C VIAIRs with a 7-gallon (I think) and do not remember that long of fill time. I also have to run around 90 PSI in the front and 70 PSI in the since I do not currently have front shocks. Check your tank for moisture also as that can mess with your pressure switch some depending on how it is installed.
I bought the one from the US, thank you very much for all your help!Check your messages, I sent some more info over. Most folks get their Tech2s within a week from overseas but you might consider that one from Arizona.
Well crap; this morning I had this great idea of pulling fuses one by one in the underhood fuse panel just to physically check them and see if I could clear any of the dash lights. I had bought a BlueDriver OBDII scanner on recommendations but it didn't read airbag codes, but it did read ABS/ TC/ Stabilitrac codes. I've been trying to buy a TechII with @swathdiver 's help but that's been a confusing mess so far, plus it will take a month to get here. I just figured I'd pull fuses and look at them even though I don't think that has anything to do with any issues and I'd checked them with a test light. Stupid idea I guess because now it doesn't drive right as in it doesn't shift right, seems like there's a loss of power (maybe because of the shifting), it threw Evap codes of P0449 and U01010 and just doesn't seem right. I pulled the negative cable and touched it to the positive post for a few and then left it off for 1/2 hour but no difference. Now I pulled both battery cables and will let it sit overnight. Any ideas? Seems like the PCM needs a reset or something but I don't have a TechII. Supposed to be moving forward not backwards.
Key was not on. Weird thing is, it doesn't seem to downshift into first even manually. It takes off slow, probably because it's in second. It's idling fine, but a bit high at around 800-900 rpm instead of 500. And I swear the gear indicator worked before but maybe not; it's not now.When you first started it after playing with the fuses, did it not want to idle as smoothly as before? You may have just reset your PCM and it now has to relearn idle, settle on fuel trims, etc. A "U" code is a manufacturer code that usually is thrown by a loss of communication to a module. Was the key on when you were pulling and reinserting the fuses? Maybe having all the modules drain and repower up together would help.
The check engine light is weird though with those codes. I'll see what happens tomorrow when I reconnect the battery and maybe take it for a long drive. I've flashed tunes in my Denali before and it was ready instantly. Maybe a mile or two at most.Amy time you flash a new tune OR disconnect the battery it takes approximately 150 miles to let the ECM relearn all of the fuel trims ETC. As @iamdub mentioned.


Key was not on. Weird thing is, it doesn't seem to downshift into first even manually. It takes off slow, probably because it's in second. It's idling fine, but a bit high at around 800-900 rpm instead of 500. And I swear the gear indicator worked before but maybe not; it's not now.
The check engine light is weird though with those codes. I'll see what happens tomorrow when I reconnect the battery and maybe take it for a long drive. I've flashed tunes in my Denali before and it was ready instantly. Maybe a mile or two at most.