What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[07Burb]

Yeah the high beam is below the low beam projector. The housings take H7 and H11 bulbs for the low and high. They're not great, but better than the OE light output. The led surround comes on with parking/headlights and are not the DRL. They were about $300 when I bought them at the beginning of 2020. Only problem I have with them is the thin outer layer of clear or uv is peeling starting from the top. Could easily be buffed and re-coated probably.

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Good lookin lights! I need to get new lights for wives esky so bad. Those look great

 

[gooffeyguy]

I forgot the hybrids have led's already so you probably wouldn't get the hyperflash from changing other builbs to led

With my AutoSync, I could pay for a BCM flash and it'll download it and flash it while sitting in the driveway/garage. I'd be able to disable hyper flash for led use plus change a whole bunch of things.

Ideas, ideas.....

 

[j91z28d1]

I forgot the hybrids have led's already so you probably wouldn't get the hyperflash from changing other builbs to led

it's literally only one light bulb. the brake light in the tails. since they melted the socket, I doubt they saved any power, I honestly don't see what the point was, just to be different and market I guess. Lotta little stuff like that on these things.

all the parking and turns front and back are normal bulbs which also never failed lol

 

[j91z28d1]

Yeah the high beam is below the low beam projector. The housings take H7 and H11 bulbs for the low and high. They're not great, but better than the OE light output. The led surround comes on with parking/headlights and are not the DRL. They were about $300 when I bought them at the beginning of 2020. Only problem I have with them is the thin outer layer of clear or uv is peeling starting from the top. Could easily be buffed and re-coated probably.

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that's a pretty nice cut off for what they are. these morimoto's have the angled step cut off. i don't like as much as the square.

I'm pretty much done with projectors that need bulbs thou, the ones with the chip on board while not replaceable, they are so much brighter and crisper cut off I'm OK with it. if they ever burn out I'll replace the whole thing.


the bi-led I put in my fogs had the angled step cutoff, I took them apart and cut the flapper straight to make them into a proper under the "fog" cut off, but had they been a nice step, I wouldn't have touched them.


for the lenses, the chemical stuff recommended from posts back is some pretty good stuff. I'm sure you could restore it them, put some ppf over it and they look good as new. my morimoto's weren't just hazed on the outside, the plastic it's has that crazing stuff going on. like internal cracks. very disappointing for the price but warranty was painless.

 

[gooffeyguy]

for the lenses, the chemical stuff recommended from posts back is some pretty good stuff. I'm sure you could restore it them, put some ppf over it and they look good as new. my morimoto's weren't just hazed on the outside, the plastic it's has that crazing stuff going on. like internal cracks. very disappointing for the price but warranty was painless.

After I install the Morimotos I plan on waxing them with a UV blocker/protectant wax like once a month or every other month. I've been looking on youtube and people talk about "aftercare" for headlights either after being restored or when new to help keep them protected longer. Seems pretty simple and quick.

That Maguires spray I bought is more of a UV "clear coating" to put on after sanding/buffing headlights. While the advertising says it's good to use to keep new headlights new, the experts say not to because it'd be a second "coating" and will actually hinder light output. I'll probably use it on my old housings after some sanding/buffing to get the layer that's peeling (it looks like saran wrap flaking off), then sell them on ebay or something.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I picked up some Chemical Guys Headlight Restorer to try on my current housing. They are still clear, no yellowing, just the outermost layer flaking off. This might just get that buffed off then I can reseal them with that Meguiars spray.

I'm also thinking of ordering some Morimoto XB Resistor-Free Switchbacks for the front turn signals before installing the new housings. I really don't care for the yellow being on all the time at night underneath the low beam, I like the white.

 

[j91z28d1]

I've tried a few of the restore kits, most help but it ain't like new. from a member here I ordered this stuff. it's pretty crazy. it puts a factory type uv coating on the lights and makes them crystal clear too. I did my new lights before installing them and then put ppf over that. they look perfect right now. it was pre cut ppf for the stock lights and I don't think it fit right. I want to redo that for better coverage but you can't even seen it.

time will tell but I think the other member was right, this stuff might turn out to be really good oem quality.



I practiced on my old stock lights that were really hazed up. Just cleaned up with the spray and then wiped the mix on. it would have been perfect if I did some wet polishing, but I was just testing since I was going to coat the out of the box new ones that didn't need any work.





I don't believe that about to many layers blocking light output, that's just silly. if it's clear it's clear. 6 layers of ppf would block less light than a slightly sun damaged len. anything you can do to prevent that is worth while.

my c6 fog light lenses look horrible, I need to either wet sand, buff and apply this coating badly or just replace them. I removed the lenses and did the retrofit on them because I wasn't worried about damaging them but the light output is great. just since it's a retro fit projector, you gotta remember to flat black the old reflector if you can't remove it, it will glare all over the place if not.

 

[j91z28d1]

@Tonyrodz is your guy for professional headlight repair or sun damage prevention info.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I just took some pics of my current headlight. It's hard to see, looks more like a hard water spot. It's like this on both headlights.

I still have my OE headlights in a box in the attic of my garage. They're in great condition, no haze, no yellow.

 

[j91z28d1]

yep, that's the uv coat. you'd probably need get thru that with some wet sanding, and then mix and wipe on that 2 part mix. since you're not yellow, the spray wouldn't do much for you.

the spray is wild stuff I messed with it a bit. I feel like I could damage stuff with it haha.

 

[Tonyrodz]

yep, that's the uv coat. you'd probably need get thru that with some wet sanding, and then mix and wipe on that 2 part mix. since you're not yellow, the spray wouldn't do much for you.

the spray is wild stuff I messed with it a bit. I feel like I could damage stuff with it haha.

When I've restored completely yellow/hazy headlights I start out by dry sanding with a custom flexible pad that goes on a palm sander. Depending on how bad the headlight is determines the grit of sandpaper I start with. I then go to a finer grit paper until I hit 2000 grit. I then buff with plastic polish, using a buffer with custom 10" wool pad. The final step would be to mix the 2 part uv protector, then applying with a lintless cloth. I applied just the uv protector to my then new headlights.
Ti's was back 5-6 years ago. They're now just starting to get a very little hazy on the tops of the lights.
EDIT--I just checked when I did the lights originally, and it was back in 2016--8 years ago! I'm in NJ, so southern states might not last as long as mine did.

 

[Charlie207]

Spent the morning thinking I'd be able to swap out the front differential, but the two nuts on the driver's side just free-spin, and I can't get a wrench on the top of the bolts to hold them in place while the daka-daka does it's thing. Might have to wait until I pull the engie for the swap to access those two dumb bolts-heads.

Was absolutely covered with Fluid Film, so at least it's nice to know that it holds tight to the frame.

 

[Just Fishing]

Checked the front brakes.
Changed the transmission cooler line filter.
Attempted to burp the cooling system


Hot days, the tahoe keeps spilling it's coolant on the ground since i changed the overflow bottle.
Seems i have a stubborn air bubble in the cooling system that won't go away.

So i ordered a vacuum tool to help.

 

[mikez71]

bad radiator cap? (overflow/pressure tank)

 

[Geotrash]

bad radiator cap? (overflow/pressure tank)

That’s my bet.

 

[Just Fishing]

bad radiator cap? (overflow/pressure tank)

I started thinking about that today.
The new tank came with a 20 psi cap, the oem is something like 15psi, so i swapped them... lol

It's probably that, but i do hear air swooshing in the hoses when i squeeze them.

 

[Doubeleive]

was poking aroung google and found my collection from around 2014, lol

 

[Just Fishing]

And this is the tool i bought.
OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit, 5 Adapters, Eliminate Trapped Air, Test Radiator and Heating Core Lines for Leaks, Vacuum Fill Coolant Tool, Vacuum Leak Tester, Multi https://a.co/d/6MK0ich

Is it right? No clue!

I like the oem stuff usually, and the bright colored case means i have a better chance of finding it later.
Probably years from now if i ever need it again.



Biggest selling item, next day/morning delivery.
It just arrived!

 

[Just Fishing]

The tahoe is also about to take that big boat up a long canyon road, and then back down into a valley.
Hence the urgency!

Silly me decided i better swap out that Coolant recovery tank before the trip, and of course it introduced issues...

 

[mikez71]

It's a balancing act for sure..

"preventative maintenance" vs. "if it ain't broke.. "