What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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08z71bgm

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On Sat, I swapped out the front & rear differential fluids on the Suburban at 135k miles. The Mityvac fluid dispenser made it very easy.

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It doesn’t look like it had been changed by the previous owner.
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Did you use any gasket sealer on the cover with that rubber gasket?
 

08z71bgm

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Right, so in cold weather the internal radiator cooler would warm the trans quicker than a thermal bypass

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Once the thermostat opens up on the engine and hot coolant goes in the radiator you will have heat transfer to the trans fluid which will bring it to temp quicker.
 

Sam Harris

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I went on behalf of the burb to the exhaust shop that did the manifold replacement in 2018. Some may remember that I had my manifolds replaced and a few broken bolts extracted at that time. Well, I have another broken bolt. So, I made a deal with them, and while it wasnt free, it was basically about half price, maybe a third of retail price to replace all the bolts and put on new gaskets AGAIN. Well, I couldnt find my receipt. Very strange of me, but my mentality was likely that I wouldnt have to worry about it for another 10 years. Well, here we are, and I had no proof of purchase. Thankfully, due to a nice lady working in the office, she took the time to look over their sales numbers for 2018, and they had each transaction as a line item in a spreadsheet .... well the guy who did my paperwork did ZERO effort. Only had my first name, no vehicle information, and whoever entered in manifold in the description column spelled it wrong. Uber receipts to the rescue! I remembered that I had ubered home and to the shop, so I had the exact date and we found the transaction and the myriad of errors causing difficulty in finding it in the first place. Got the thumbs up and she'll get done this week with new ARP bolts and remflex gaskets.
Glad you’re doing the ARP bolts. I had 3 broken as well, and replaced with ARP. Hoping I should never need to replace those.
 
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I read the cooler has a built in bypass so why would you need another bypass?
Yeah, the first 2 rows have larger passages so when the fluid is cold it's thicker and won't flow into the rest of the smaller passages until it's warmer and thinner.

I wouldn't want, especially in summer, to wait till the fluid hits 180* before it starts to flow through the cooler

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It’s all good. Will be cleaning it up, and painting black... still, pretty spendy for that level of quality @~$75...
There's a couple other companies that make brackets for the Tru-cool. Glenn's is one, forgot the name of the other. They're like $45.

I'm just going to use the brackets that came with it, and/or maybe either notch the lower bracket for the mounting tabs or cut the welds on the ends and flip the lower bracket upside down.

I'm pretty good at fabbing/bending/cutting metal brackets.

I used these type of metal strips to mount the one I have in my 2001, back around 2007, which are still working fine.

EDIT: Glenn's Auto Performance brackets are $68.
The other one is Atomic Fab and Performance for $45

The extra fittings needed if wanting to connect the stock lines are like $5 for 2 of the 3/8" compression fitting at the autoparts store or HomeDepot. The Jiffy-tite fittings are the ones that come on the factory cooler on the gmt800, or can be bought at auto parts store for about $5 each

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1BADI5

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Well I finally got the brackets. QC is a bit to be desired. They should really make sure the water jet cuts the holes 100% before packaging. Maybe clean it up a bit too. I know maybe I’m being too critical for 75 bucks. Lol also no washers for the bolts.

View attachment 253546

edit: so it’s also going to need to be deburred. The edge is quite sharp. I’ll most likely hit with a file and add rivnuts in the holes. Then paint the whole thing.

That exactly what I did. Rivnuts FTW
 

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