Charlie207
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Yep.....
I'm an absolute ******* moron. I was trying to undo the red-circled nuts on the driver's side. Fuuuuuuuuu
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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I'm an absolute ******* moron. I was trying to undo the red-circled nuts on the driver's side. Fuuuuuuuuu
mikez71
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Did something easy while failing to figure out why my truck runs like poop..
Also replaced AC belt. Compressor was surprisingly gummy feeling when turned by hand. (pulley spins freely)
Also replaced AC belt. Compressor was surprisingly gummy feeling when turned by hand. (pulley spins freely)
I think that's normal, but could be wrong
It is, but it could be different at full speed. It's a scroll style compressor so if it's loaded with too much oil (for example, thanks to one of those parts store R134a cans), then it may be binding at speed.
you can take the ac belt off and take it for a drive to rule it in or out
mikez71
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ya, figured the clutch does work so when its off it really cant be dragging unless the belt tension binds it up?
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Normal unless things don't work is my thought.
mikez71
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Struggling to get my O2 sensors out!
Any tips/tricks? Liquid wrench, wire brushed.. still tight!
I haven't even gotten the secondaries loose.. Primary O2 on driver side, above driveshaft, looks like a real pain! Do I need to remove driveshaft?
Struggling to pull the wiring plug off the chassis even! (plastic through hole mount).
Why did they make the sensor plug mount to chassis instead of the harness end?
I'm tired already!
Any tips/tricks? Liquid wrench, wire brushed.. still tight!
I haven't even gotten the secondaries loose.. Primary O2 on driver side, above driveshaft, looks like a real pain! Do I need to remove driveshaft?
Struggling to pull the wiring plug off the chassis even! (plastic through hole mount).
Why did they make the sensor plug mount to chassis instead of the harness end?
I'm tired already!
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LOTS of heat. I'll sit there with map gas directly on that sumbish and it always relents. Once you get it out, though, you won't want to touch the old sensor or wrench for a while so let them cool off or wear really good gloves LOL
crows foot or 02 sensor socket, the upper drivers side is a real b*tch.
probably while hot is your best bet, you will want some big gloves those hot cat's are no joke
the 02 sensor socket will have a outer bolt fitting if you have stripped the sensor at all already
you will probably have to get something on there just right and use a big breaker bar to crack it loose.
don't disconnect them? Just lower it about a 1/4in? leave the bolts in, you're just trying to vent the exhaust.
mikez71
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I maybe just lowering the pipe to test as j91z recommended!
I was going to gut them temporarily if clogged, but I have smog this year and dont feel like doing it twice..
The dang CARB ypipe is $2000! (or $1600 from rockauto for a ripply aftermarket one) Apparently CARB testing costs $1250 per unit! (non carb tested, carb compliant setup is ~$350)
Might be time to buy a beater backup car..
I was going to gut them temporarily if clogged, but I have smog this year and dont feel like doing it twice..
The dang CARB ypipe is $2000! (or $1600 from rockauto for a ripply aftermarket one) Apparently CARB testing costs $1250 per unit! (non carb tested, carb compliant setup is ~$350)
Might be time to buy a beater backup car..
mikez71
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Yea I just wanted a visual confirm, figuring theres a good chance I need to pull it down anyway..
But its kicking my ass before I even started so.. If I need to spend the money for cats, Ill just buy new O2s.. so maybe I dont need to remove old O2s..
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Map gas torch.
mikez71
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Currently struggling to loosen at the manifolds. Had the breaker on the one nut that is reachable without wobble adapter. Nope!
Don't want to break.. Gonna soak them. Didn't because I lost the straw on my liquid wrench.. I'll use a brush.. I'll get there eventually..
Got cleaned up so I'm taking a break now!
Thanks for all the help! Be a day or two before next update..
BTW, has anybody ever check engine load at idle on their Tech2?
Don't want to break.. Gonna soak them. Didn't because I lost the straw on my liquid wrench.. I'll use a brush.. I'll get there eventually..
Got cleaned up so I'm taking a break now!
Thanks for all the help! Be a day or two before next update..
BTW, has anybody ever check engine load at idle on their Tech2?
Yes it always seems high for just idling, been a minute since I did but I think mine was around the same as your shows. maybe someone else can check and or confirm the same
gooffeyguy
Tom
ouch. are you up north where stuff is rushy?
if not I was going to say hit it with an impact. the shock tends to help, but if you're in the rust belt. I don't deal with that stuff and it seems to he a whole different world
ya I think mine was showing 15~20, his said 22 or something around there, mine could have been higher like low 20's
10% to 20%: This is a typical range for idle load in many modern engines, including the L94 might fall within this range under certain conditions (warm engine, minimal electrical load).
(PER THE INTERWEBZ GODS)
(PER THE INTERWEBZ GODS)
