What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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funny I didn't even know we had one and then I noticed on the wix site they sold one with an asterisk about needing a kit installed to install it. checked and mine had already had it done, but when I pulled it out whoever put it in the top caught on something and they just jammed it on and it folded up. so it wasn't doing anything. glad I looked haha.

nice to have one. my 96 doesn't and the evap was gross.
gm has in the past added and deleted it off and on (depending on the year/make/model), hence the need for the kit. I retro-fitted mine
luckily they left the "box" the same design and all you have to do is cut a piece out to add a filter if so desired.
the dorman filter is designed to bend so you can shove it in there properly a square and triange do fit together well. lol
 

j91z28d1

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Quick question regarding 92 octane ethanol free gas.

I buy it from a local specialty fuel place to run in all my pressure washers chainsaws weedeaters etc etc

I know it is best for all the small carbs and moving parts of fuel supply in small engines.

I am thinking about my upcoming tow of my 20 foot cargo trailer end of this summer headed back east to Ohio.

I live near Seattle so about 2 hour drive east is the Cascade mountain range I will be crossing on I-90.

My question is: Can I help my rig pull more efficiently going over the mountain pass by fueling up with the 92 octane ethanol free gas ?

I use 87 octane always from Costco. Will the higher octane rated gas give me a slight performance boost for the stressful tow up a mountain pass ??

May use the same strategy going over the Rockies.


octane needed is always a hard question, so many veritables but which engine do you have? I hear the 6.2 is recommended to run 93 all the time. the 5.3 being tuned to run 87. both should be have their tow ratings from the manufacturer using the fuel grade they recommend. but that was 100k miles ago, or whatever you have on yours. at that point you might have carbon build up and stuff making the higher octane reduced knock chance.

I recently towed with my 6.0 that's rated for 87 from tx to FL, 1000 miles and just ran 87, car and trailer being right around the max tow rating. but it's mostly flat land, my next trip will probably be into the NC mountains. for that I'll have my tq app up with knock and retard showing. if I see it pulling any timing I'll fill it with 93 at the next stop.

at the end of the day, it's probably not needed to to avoid damage like the old days, but it can't hurt if you have the money and I have noticed the price differences between 87 and 93 is getting closer at least here. it used to be 10 cents more between grades back in the day, but then got up to over a 1$ between 87 and 93. gotta be price gouging at that point. no way it's legit cost of refinement.

as for non e92 over e10 93. I'd go with the cheaper e10 93. it is more knock resistant than 92 with less e. plus e burns cooler. if you have a flex truck, I'd run e85 all the time. it runs so much better and it's like 100 octane just uses a little more fuel pre mile. why we use non e in small engines is they are mostly gravity feed carbs, the fuel is exposed to air so it attracts moisture and when they sit around all.

the time it gunks up. we have about 15 small Honda engines in different stuff at work, the ones that get used daily, it's never a issue the one's that only get used randomly do need the main jet poked clean if we don't go pick up the small engine fuel for them, or if we get a new fueler that just takes it on their self to fuel everything with a tank lol. but yeah e runs fine in small engines too if you used them non stop like your car but same with a car. don't run e85 and park it in the garage for a month. it cloggs injectors, but they said running on it cleans carbon off pistons like crazy. you can pull a high mileage e85 car engine apart and it's. spotless inside.

I'm sure that didn't help at all lol.
 

j91z28d1

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gm has in the past added and deleted it off and on (depending on the year/make/model), hence the need for the kit. I retro-fitted mine
luckily they left the "box" the same design and all you have to do is cut a piece out to add a filter if so desired.
the dorman filter is designed to bend so you can shove it in there properly a square and triange do fit together well. lol


yeah, mine had been cut but not cleaned up well. but if a hack. job. I cleaned it up and put a new one in it.

I didn't know about Dorman, I just ordered the wix one. it was meant to bend and slid in nice. I did pull it out to double check it didn't fold like the last one was.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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yeah, mine had been cut but not cleaned up well. but if a hack. job. I cleaned it up and put a new one in it.

I didn't know about Dorman, I just ordered the wix one. it was meant to bend and slid in nice. I did pull it out to double check it didn't fold like the last one was.
I looked at the pictures of the wix one online but it looked like it had a solid frame, it was $10 cheaper but I wasn't sure if it bent or not
my silverado has one factory and it's pretty much the same size and goes striaght in without having to bend but thicker filters do not fit
 

mikez71

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I don't have a filter, but is there a good way to clean the ducts/evaporator core?

I cleaned my old toyota sequoia by spraying 409 and other cleaners in there and letting it run out the drain. And sticking a long brush through some hole.. Hoping I can do the same here..
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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I don't have a filter, but is there a good way to clean the ducts/evaporator core?

I cleaned my old toyota sequoia by spraying 409 and other cleaners in there and letting it run out the drain. And sticking a long brush through some hole.. Hoping I can do the same here..
not that I know of it's pretty tight up in there, adding a filter is relatively easy though and when you cut the slot open the evaporator is right there.
 

mikez71

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not that I know of it's pretty tight up in there, adding a filter is relatively easy though and when you cut the slot open the evaporator is right there.
Sweet, should be able to hose it down and brush it after getting a filter kit then!? You should be able to spray water/cleaner in the vents and it should run out through the evaporator drain right? (I know the evap drain is small)
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Sweet, should be able to hose it down and brush it after getting a filter kit then!? You should be able to spray water/cleaner in the vents and it should run out through the evaporator drain right? (I know the evap drain is small)
you could clean it from the filter slot for sure, if you had some sort of flexible nozzle head that would work best, probably wouldn't be all that hard to make something,
a hose with a nozzle tip and a piece of coat hanger wire as a handle to reach up inside and aim it would work
 

Fless

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Sweet, should be able to hose it down and brush it after getting a filter kit then!? You should be able to spray water/cleaner in the vents and it should run out through the evaporator drain right? (I know the evap drain is small)

There are types of evap cleaners that are intended to be introduced through the drain tube. Do a little research and those types will have videos about how to do it and what to expect.
 

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