What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Jason in DLH]

synthetic blinker fluid and a new canooder valve with get you another 5 to 10 hp

I’ll have to try this!

 

[osiris94ej]

Not today but over the course of the weekend. No pictures because phone was busy playing music Friday night, and put the tip on today so ther is that today [emoji2373].

But the ****** is back on.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Doubeleive]

Eh. Little ol' 5.3, small cam and crippling 4L60...

Although, after watching it some more, I guess it does seem to still be climbing half-decently well up to around 117. Maybe I'm expecting a little too much from the brick.

I determined the "wall" to be around 125-130ish. I let off when it looked like the RPM climb stalled around 5,600.



Running the math just for fun:

5,600 RPM engine speed
1:1 Third gear trans ratio
3.73 Diff gear ratio
32" Tire (16" radius)

= 142.9 MPH

I know I wasn't going over the low 130s. Hard numbers don't account for slip in the unlocked torque converter.

I just go by the trip computer, either the Garmin or pioneer

 

[iamdub]

Have you still got pictures/diagrams of those handy? This seems like the lowest and easiest solution

Been digging for a minute and can't find them at the moment. However, I did run across this:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/attachments/console-wiring-harness-connection-108-pdf.185222/

It has the wire colors and locations for the speaker signals feeding the Bose. If your wire colors and locations match, you could tap into those wires. I'm not sure if it matters to tap into a front or rear pair. I'd tap the front, assuming it has the most full-range sound. Your amp's built-in crossover will filter out the mids and highs. Cut and strip the wires, cut and strip some RCAs (female ends), solder them accordingly (center of the RCA is +). Don't forget the heat shrink. Then, just plug regular RCA cables to them and route 'em to your amp as you would if you plugged the RCAs to the back of an aftermarket HU.


*EDIT*

Just found this. Might wanna research it first. Apparently, the "A" at the end denotes that it is for those vehicles with the Bose amp: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-18700-PAC-AOEM-GM1416A.html

 

[gat0r]

<snip>

Does that loooooooong and slow WOT RPM climb after 100MPH give y'all anxiety, too?

i was only curious & slightly worried for your driveshaft

 

[89Suburban]

@iamdub @R3cord303 @08z71bgm @Doubeleive

 

[PG01]

Is the retrofit door itself available separately? It's not a difficult job to perform. Or, get the whole retrofit kit and you'll have a replacement filter on hand already.

Yes, it used to be anyway. When I did mine back in ‘14 chevy did me the same dirty way... sold me the filter then I had to source the door. Pretty sure Amazon had just the door and I probably paid 2x the amt but meh, it is wut it was....

 

[iamdub]

Yes, it used to be anyway. When I did mine back in ‘14 chevy did me the same dirty way... sold me the filter then I had to source the door. Pretty sure Amazon had just the door and I probably paid 2x the amt but meh, it is wut it was....

Can you check that 6+ year-old pile of parts in your garage for that door to get a part number, please?

 

[Rocket Man]

Can you check that 6+ year-old pile of parts in your garage for that door to get a part number, please?

 

[Sparksalot]

Can you check that 6+ year-old pile of parts in your garage for that door to get a part number, please?

Here’s the entire kit.

https://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-259-200-Standard-Cabin-Filter/dp/B00NF1TL1A