What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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The problem with tapping into the speaker wires with a LOC is that a lot of the bass has already been filtered out by the Bose amp to go to the factory Bose sub. If the LOC can handle the wattage, tapping into the signal to the Bose sub may produce satisfactory results. The problems there are (1) it's a DVC sub and (2) it's a small sub so it's crossover has been programmed accordingly and this may leave some to be desired with a larger sub system.

I've found pictures and wiring diagrams before, but you can tap into the low-level, full-range signal going to the Bose amp with some RCAs (cut the RCAs and solder them in) and run RCAs to your sub amp as normal.
lol, beat me to it
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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this the problem I ran into with the Silverado and using the stock system then feeding the bass signal to a amp and subs, I had to use the stock amp bass output into a hi/lo adapter and it works but it's not the ideal method. the input into the stock (most amp) is a single wire likely some form of spdif/digital signal.
 

iamdub

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Or you can tap the amp inlets instead of the out. Pre digital processing. Then no worries about lost signal.

Right. That's what I was saying by "...you can tap into the low-level, full-range signal going to the Bose amp..."


Also you should read how the lc2i works. I used it in two cars one with Bose and one without with factory radios with excellent results.

I'm familiar with the LC2i. With how much it can take on the input side, it's a great way to bridge that connection. If I weren't so thrifty, I'd spend the $100. But, it's just as easy, even with my laziness, for me to cut a $5 pair of quality RCA cables from Amazon and solder the female ends to the wiring in the console.
 

iamdub

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Goodness your exhaust sounds good!

Thank ya!
It's kustom, yo.

I don't recall if I had the cutout completely open or if it was ~60%. When closed and going through the mufflers, it rattles and buzzes- something internal came loose during that trip to Florida. So I open it just a hair to a point where it stops the rattling but isn't full retard with the noise.
 

iamdub

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Love the 6k shift.

The tuner was surprised and worked up to that. He started around the factory shift point but saw and felt that it was still pulling well enough to let 'er wind out some more. After I told him I geeked out on the push rod length and size, lifter preload, wipe pattern and had Z06 ("yellow") springs, he's like "Okay, 6,000 it is".

Does that loooooooong and slow WOT RPM climb after 100MPH give y'all anxiety, too? :D
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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The tuner was surprised and worked up to that. He started around the factory shift point but saw and felt that it was still pulling well enough to let 'er wind out some more. After I told him I geeked out on the push rod length and size, lifter preload, wipe pattern and had Z06 ("yellow") springs, he's like "Okay, 6,000 it is".

Does that loooooooong and slow WOT RPM climb after 100MPH give y'all anxiety, too? :D
shouldn't be long and slow until after 120 at least
 

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