What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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So as a experiment this morning I unplugged the RVC plug to see if my batteries would charge up beyond 12.26v since I had some things to do today, sure enough they went up to almost 12.6 this was after settling for 10-15 minutes, last summer I picked up a nice 1/0 gauge battery cable at the flea market for $5 so yesterday I went by the battery store and had them cut the top post connector off and put on a copper connector so I can replace the smaller factory alternator cable, cable came out real nice and only cost me $23 total and that was because I had to buy a 4 pack of connectors at the hardware store to get the 1/0 size I wanted and the battery store only charged me 2.50 for the shrink wrap and labor to do it right. The new cable has 1/2 ohm less resistance than the old factory cable so I don't know how much difference that will make but I'm going to leave the RVC harness off for now and see how it goes while I wait for the charger to arrive, the mechman is putting out plenty of juice.

IMG_20200410_163431.jpg IMG_20200410_163420.jpg IMG_20200410_162428.jpg
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Went from this:
View attachment 244324

To THIS:
View attachment 244328

Also loaded my BBP tune! Man, what a difference. Better throttle response and the trans actually knows which gear to be in.
Black wheel nuts are still in the mail, so for now they are silver. Next up is an all black grille/ emblem and tint.
nice, now you need to some mud flaps, without mud flaps mine slings crap all the way up to the mirrors
 

iamdub

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So as a experiment this morning I unplugged the RVC plug to see if my batteries would charge up beyond 12.26v since I had some things to do today, sure enough they went up to almost 12.6 this was after settling for 10-15 minutes, last summer I picked up a nice 1/0 gauge battery cable at the flea market for $5 so yesterday I went by the battery store and had them cut the top post connector off and put on a copper connector so I can replace the smaller factory alternator cable, cable came out real nice and only cost me $23 total and that was because I had to buy a 4 pack of connectors at the hardware store to get the 1/0 size I wanted and the battery store only charged me 2.50 for the shrink wrap and labor to do it right. The new cable has 1/2 ohm less resistance than the old factory cable so I don't know how much difference that will make but I'm going to leave the RVC harness off for now and see how it goes while I wait for the charger to arrive, the mechman is putting out plenty of juice.

View attachment 244335 View attachment 244336 View attachment 244337

It not for reduced impedance (resistance), it's for higher ampacity over the stock wiring, which has been proven to be undersized even for a stock setup. If your DVOM could measure the impedance using ~100 amps at 12-14 volts, it'd be a lot more of a difference than .5 ohm.
 
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So as a experiment this morning I unplugged the RVC plug to see if my batteries would charge up beyond 12.26v since I had some things to do today, sure enough they went up to almost 12.6 this was after settling for 10-15 minutes, last summer I picked up a nice 1/0 gauge battery cable at the flea market for $5 so yesterday I went by the battery store and had them cut the top post connector off and put on a copper connector so I can replace the smaller factory alternator cable, cable came out real nice and only cost me $23 total and that was because I had to buy a 4 pack of connectors at the hardware store to get the 1/0 size I wanted and the battery store only charged me 2.50 for the shrink wrap and labor to do it right. The new cable has 1/2 ohm less resistance than the old factory cable so I don't know how much difference that will make but I'm going to leave the RVC harness off for now and see how it goes while I wait for the charger to arrive, the mechman is putting out plenty of juice.

View attachment 244335 View attachment 244336 View attachment 244337
Do you have a Tech2? I was playing around with mine today and noticed you can go in and change the charging voltage settings, like at what battery voltage it starts and stops charging

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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It not for reduced impedance (resistance), it's for higher ampacity over the stock wiring, which has been proven to be undersized even for a stock setup. If your DVOM could measure the impedance using ~100 amps at 12-14 volts, it'd be a lot more of a difference than .5 ohm.
ya that was the only method I had to check what the difference is beside weight, it's a nice stout cable, tired of getting low battery warnings after only having the key on a few minutes, always starts fine it just complains to me lol
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Do you have a Tech2? I was playing around with mine today and noticed you can go in and change the charging voltage settings, like at what battery voltage it starts and stops charging

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
ya I went thru all that last year when I replaced the alternator and the RVC sensor, those settings are only temporary it doesn't make permanent changes. I think maybe it just doesn't like my AGM battery's like @swathdiver said
 
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ya I went thru all that last year when I replaced the alternator and the RVC sensor, those settings are only temporary it doesn't make permanent changes. I think maybe it just doesn't like my AGM battery's like @swathdiver said
So they're just for testing I guess? I figured they would be permanent because I thought they were under the module setup (or whatever it's called)

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 

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