There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

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Went to work yesterday on a 1997 GMC K1500 intermittent no crank and/or slow crank before starting. Suspected starter. Great voltage at battery and while cranking and when running charged great. Checked voltage at starter and was same as the battery and no voltage drop problems. I removed starter and was loaded with oil. Has many leaks of oil and transmission. The solenoid post for the battery cable was loose internally and the nut holding the cable on the stud was not tight. Was crammed in there and a PITA to get out and in but went ok. Charged $250 total for diagnostics, labor and run to the parts store. He is happy. Next up with him is the 85 F150 carb/choke problem.

Took in a 2010 FJ Cruiser today. Degrease engine, replacing timing chain tensioner cover gasket-source of severe oil leak. Oil pressure switch-does anyone know where that little turd is located. Can't see it yet. Both washer nozzles on the hood. PCV valve. Rear wiper blade. Already fixed passenger side step runner. Missing bolt at front and was spongy when stepped on. Clean throttle bore...
 
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I mean it, does anyone know where the oil pressure switch is on this 2010 FJ Cruiser?
 
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Looks like near the oil filter on that V6: https://www.troublecodes.net/sensors/toyota-1gr-fe-4-0l/

I think this is the same engine, but not sure. Somewhat blurry video below but it shows where it is. I don't condone his choice of removal tools for this purpose. ;)

The link photo was one I found as well but was no help and the video is not the same. The oil fill for this 4.0 engine is up top at front left of engine, like where the oil filter is in the video. The oil filter is a cartridge that is down under the engine at the right rear. I will be looking there for the oil pressure switch. I degreased the front and lower right of the engine and did not crawl under there yesterday. It is drip dry over night now and I would bet that switch is down there. The switch I thought was it, turned out to be the power steering pressure switch. No worries, I will find it.

I did search and search on the internet and did not find any pic and no where on you tube does it show the location during a switch replacement. If my girl was here, she could crawl under there with me and do a video so I could post at you tube.
 

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Choke.....

Time to pass it, Hoss...


The Chevy 350 in my '33 is carbed. I've thought about switching it over with one of those fuel injection kits that comes with a replacement carb and all the wiring/sensors/electronics but it is so simple the way it is now, not many wires, sensors, or controller boxes.

View attachment 401471

I think a carb is just fine for such a car. You could go EFI and do a good job with hiding the wiring and all to maintain the aesthetic. But if it's not a daily and you're not constantly fighting the carb every time the weather changes and it runs fine when that A/C cycles, you're golden. A friend got the Holley Sniper kit for his project truck- '94 Silverado with a built 350, big cam, loose stall, etc. It started out really well with the self-learning part but he's been having some guy in Australia tweak it. We haven't talked about it in a while but, coincidentally, he hit me up yesterday asking about an idle issue when the A/C engages.


Holley would disagree, lol
View attachment 401492


FiTech would disagree with Holley, lol
attachment.jpg
 
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Time to pass it, Hoss...




I think a carb is just fine for such a car. You could go EFI and do a good job with hiding the wiring and all to maintain the aesthetic. But if it's not a daily and you're not constantly fighting the carb every time the weather changes and it runs fine when that A/C cycles, you're golden. A friend got the Holley Sniper kit for his project truck- '94 Silverado with a built 350, big cam, loose stall, etc. It started out really well with the self-learning part but he's been having some guy in Australia tweak it. We haven't talked about it in a while but, coincidentally, he hit me up yesterday asking about an idle issue when the A/C engages.





FiTech would disagree with Holley, lol
View attachment 401617
My 95 mustang is OBD1 and in the tuning I have it raise idle 50rpm when the AC cycles (AC switch rpm parameter). I'm not sure exactly how the 33 does it with the carb. There's probably a small solenoid on the idle linkage that engages when the AC does.
 
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The link photo was one I found as well but was no help and the video is not the same. The oil fill for this 4.0 engine is up top at front left of engine, like where the oil filter is in the video. The oil filter is a cartridge that is down under the engine at the right rear. I will be looking there for the oil pressure switch. I degreased the front and lower right of the engine and did not crawl under there yesterday. It is drip dry over night now and I would bet that switch is down there. The switch I thought was it, turned out to be the power steering pressure switch. No worries, I will find it.

I did search and search on the internet and did not find any pic and no where on you tube does it show the location during a switch replacement. If my girl was here, she could crawl under there with me and do a video so I could post at you tube.

Get the engine type from the label under the hood, that might help with a search. The link I posted was for the 1GR-FE engine.
 

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