There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[OR VietVet]

I did make one decision, after going thru some of these posts. I refuse to go out and get a dwell meter. I remember the Snap On old red metal white meter face box with the bouncing needle and the special flexible allen tool for adjusting the points thru the hole on the GM distributor cap. The old one piece points and condenser kit for the GM's. I actually do have that adjusting tool and was also used for adjusting the air/fuel mixture needles on front of carbs. I have the long box and all the attachments.

 

[TollKeeper]

Wish I had a mechanic as detail orientated near me.. Need some work done on all 3 cars of mine.

 

[OR VietVet]

Wish I had a mechanic as detail orientated near me.. Need some work done on all 3 cars of mine.

I learned a long time ago that "The devil is in the details". I ask questions because a lot of times the answer to those questions uncovers the source of the problems/devil. If you don't get details and just assume, then the problems can be overwhelming. I would rather open my mouth and ask questions in the beginning than open my mouth with excuses later.

 

[OR VietVet]

Just had the next vehicle drop buy for a cursory inspection and a drop off of the vehicle history of maintenance and repairs. My next vehicle will be dropped off on 07/14 and will be the college daughter's 2007 Lexus RX350. Oil and filter change, air filter and throttle bore cleaning, top off coolant, clean battery cable ends-lots of corrosion that I pointed out to him and possibly the cabin air filter and whatever else I find during the work process.

Still have one of his other vehicles coming in. It is a 2013 Acura RDX. Seems to be needing an oil change and inspection and has a hard "jolt" feeling over bumps. Said that at last oil change they said they felt the jolt feeling over bumps and he had not been aware of that and after he took the vehicle he said he seems to have been feeling the jolt too. I think it is "suggestive selling" but I shall see.

I still have the 2018 Suburban rear liftgate struts to do either Thursday or Friday.

 

[OR VietVet]

The 2018 Suburban liftgate struts showed up a day early. I saw they were coming so I propped the liftgate up and waited for the package. When package arrived it took about 20 minutes to remove old, install new and snake the left strut wiring connector into the top of liftgate and plug in. I did double check for power and ground before I removed old. He is leaving tomorrow for holiday weekend with his wife and was willing to wait till when he came back but the parts got here a day early via Fed Ex. As you can see by the video, it works great and he said is as quiet as when it was new. I guess he forgot to tell me it was getting noisier.

Diagnostics and labor put $1.50 in my pocket.

This pic is on the old struts and the prop rod I used. I was ready when the parts showed up.

 

[OR VietVet]

Next up is the 2007 Lexus RX350 for known work of: oil change with new drain plug gasket, air filter, cabin air filter, clean battery cable ends, clean throttle body, pressure test cooling system because it was slightly low and top off coolant. I looked thru his supplied paperwork and never saw spark plugs changed. The iridium plugs in it are supposed to be good for 10 years or 100k to 120k miles. It has just over 120k miles on it. The fuel filter is in the tank with the pump. The wiper cowling has to be completely removed to gain access to remove the upper plenum to get to rear spark plugs. I am going to remove an easy coil and plug to inspect and did find out that if the plugs are original, they will have a mark on the tip where the coil plugs on. The vehicle came from the dad's brother and then the college girl daughter has been the second owner. No where do I see plugs changed. It gonna likely need the plugs, coil boots and springs-two designs on those boots, tube seals, plenum seals and throttle body seal. I looked it all up and priced with my 10% military discount at AZ or with 5% discount at RA. Luckily the NGK and Fel-Pro parts I like are at both places. I will get the vehicle July 4th and at least pull the plug then to inspect. I already have all the known needs parts here. She is out of school so I can do the known stuff and then order in the other parts and do the other work later. The cowling removal does not look too bad. I am going to give him the option of doing the coils too, in case they go bad later and have to pull plenum again. I think it will be decided as to whether she is keeping the vehicle. An 07 with 120k miles is pretty low and is in great shape. My labor for that will likely be close to 3+ hours. I hope to shoot some pics of what I find. The battery cable end corrosion is pretty bad.

 

[iamdub]

The 2018 Suburban liftgate struts showed up a day early. I saw they were coming so I propped the liftgate up and waited for the package. When package arrived it took about 20 minutes to remove old, install new and snake the left strut wiring connector into the top of liftgate and plug in. I did double check for power and ground before I removed old. He is leaving tomorrow for holiday weekend with his wife and was willing to wait till when he came back but the parts got here a day early via Fed Ex. As you can see by the video, it works great and he said is as quiet as when it was new. I guess he forgot to tell me it was getting noisier.

Diagnostics and labor put $1.50 in my pocket.

View attachment 402969

This pic is on the old struts and the prop rod I used. I was ready when the parts showed up.

$1.50? Diagnostics and labor done in just over a minute total?

 

[OR VietVet]

Well, I just had a talk/text with the guy who owns the 97 GMC K1500 that I did the starter on and he is selling and he also owns the 85 F150 2wd that had the rust in the master cylinder and where the master cylinder bolts up to the booster. He is thinking about keeping the F150 for a beater truck. That truck is already there. Anyway, I let him know that the brake lines and brake hoses and wheel cylinders and calipers are gonna be full of the same rust as the master cylinder and if he is keeping, he needs to get real good insurance because he is gonna lose brakes sometime and hit something or someone. He said he will have me flush it. I told him that flushing it will not fix the rust. I explained the difference between maintenance and repairs. I also told him we need to check engine vacuum to make sure the engine provides enough vacuum for the booster. I told him to either try and sell it and do a full disclosure about the brakes or keep it and fix it to be safe. He says he wants to sell the GMC and keep the F150. I told him, it would be best for me to inspect front to back and give him a list with priorities. The key tumbler is hard to rotate and I feel the tumbler housing is gummed up and may loosen with some lube or the ignition switch is hard to slide. That was an obvious to me when here last. The body is straight with no rust. Don't really need 4wd around here. He is gonna get back to me. here is a couple pics of the crud in the m/cyl.

 

[OR VietVet]

$1.50? Diagnostics and labor done in just over a minute total?

$150.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Well, I just had a talk/text with the guy who owns the 97 GMC K1500 that I did the starter on and he is selling and he also owns the 85 F150 2wd that had the rust in the master cylinder and where the master cylinder bolts up to the booster. He is thinking about keeping the F150 for a beater truck. That truck is already there. Anyway, I let him know that the brake lines and brake hoses and wheel cylinders and calipers are gonna be full of the same rust as the master cylinder and if he is keeping, he needs to get real good insurance because he is gonna lose brakes sometime and hit something or someone. He said he will have me flush it. I told him that flushing it will not fix the rust. I explained the difference between maintenance and repairs. I also told him we need to check engine vacuum to make sure the engine provides enough vacuum for the booster. I told him to either try and sell it and do a full disclosure about the brakes or keep it and fix it to be safe. He says he wants to sell the GMC and keep the F150. I told him, it would be best for me to inspect front to back and give him a list with priorities. The key tumbler is hard to rotate and I feel the tumbler housing is gummed up and may loosen with some lube or the ignition switch is hard to slide. That was an obvious to me when here last. The body is straight with no rust. Don't really need 4wd around here. He is gonna get back to me. here is a couple pics of the crud in the m/cyl.

View attachment 403025View attachment 403026View attachment 403027

Deja vu

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, the 2007 Lexus RX350 showed up today and after I let cool down I pulled the two engine covers off and the smaller of the two had 4 push clips that held it down. Only one was 1/2 way there so I picked up 4 new ones and let it cool some more. By that time it is 96 degrees outside but is under a canopy in the shade. I got the easy ignition coil pulled and removed that plug and it looked old but fine and had the "+" sign mark at the tip to prove it is the original Denso plug with 120k+ miles on them. So, besides the oil change with a new drain plug gasket and air filter and cabin filter and throttle body clean and the battery cable ends cleaning, I am also ordering in right now the new Denso ignition coils with tube seals and coil boots and springs, new Denso iridium plugs, throttle body seal and upper intake seal for work to be done on the 14th or later. It is gonna require removal of the entire cowling area and wiper transmission assembly for rear 3 plugs access after upper plenum removal. Even at RA with discount code and shipping it is an additional $414 in parts from RA. I did not look at the serpentine belt yet and will do so tomorrow and get it if needed.

As soon as the Lexus is all done or in between when I am waiting for RA parts, he has a 2013 Acura RDX with what he feels like is a suspension problem but I did quiz him the other day and he did not "SEEM TO NOTICE" a problem on the suspension till the last shop that did the oil change on it, brought up to him what they noticed during road test. His wife's Honda Pilot was also said to have had front and rear shocks and struts problem but I looked and saw no leaks and saw no abnormal tire wear and it handled fine/great during my road test. That work was gonna cost them $2500 at that shop. I have talked to him and her both about the work I did and my opinion of the suspension and they are completely happy with the way it handles.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, Finished with the 2007 RX350, this morning. One of the capture nut clips had a different length bolt/screw threaded into it and was just hanging there after the clip had been broken out of the plastic shield under the engine. The screw went in to and helped hold the window flap for oil filter cartridge access. The screw is a 6mm with very fine thread. I have a rethread kit to fix it. See pics. See pics of the cabin air filter and the engine air filter. See pics of the cable ends. I did not do the throttle body cleaning because I have to take it off to gain access to the ignition coils I am going to do when parts get here.

 

[OR VietVet]

By the way, the cabin air filter and the engine air filter have 20k miles on them.

 

[OR VietVet]

Hell, I can just make a living off just this neighborhood block I live on. The next door neighbor, I did extensive work on his wife's 2010 Camry, wants me to inspect her Camry for problems pointed out by the local Les Schwab shop. He had front and rear brake work done by them. The shop MO is to always quote and do reman calipers, new rotors and new pads and new hardware. The problem is that the front rotors warp easily and pulse and the pads leave a large amount of pad dust on the wheels. The rear brakes appear to be doing just fine. The front brake work has been warrantied 3 times already with various "fixes". Les Schwab uses Raybestos brake parts almost exclusively. The explanations are varied by the owner. They don't seem to keep good records. Anyway, the latest visit has ended up with an estimate for new reman calipers and pads that are no longer covered and a quote for both lower control arms replacement and alignment. Les Schwab says one of the control arms is "cracked" and that is what is contributing to the brake problems and therefore the front brake warranty is "no more".

They never said which arm or showed the customer the cracked control arm. The paperwork does not say anything about cracked control arm. He was never told it is unsafe to drive, either. So, today, I am looking at it around noon and am going to remove the front tires and do a thorough inspection. This all started when I did all the other work, see those details earlier in this thread, and I pointed out the very large amount of brake dust on the front wheel covers. They have a 3 month old new baby that the mom drives around that car with.
The thing is that, whatever I find that is needed, will not be done by me. I am charging for the inspection because I charge for everything. Anyway, he has church going friends that have a farm near here and they work on their vehicles "all the time". He will be having them do whatever work I find that is needed. He told me this right up front. He wanted to have full disclosure with me. He has no problems with my work or fees. He just needs to save money when he can. New babies are expensive. All of this is a-o-k with me. If the friends run in to trouble and he asks me to go "look" at the problem(s), he knows I am going to charge for the drive and help. The town that the work is going to be done at is about 25 miles away, one way.

 

[OR VietVet]

Got the 2010 Camry around 12:15 and got it in the air at the front and removed the tires/wheels. Brake inspection first. Wearing evenly and brake pad dust everywhere. They were evenly thin and according to records, had 15k miles on them. Both turned easily with no binding. Has the hardware that has the squealer tabs on them and they are close but will be ok for 1 to 2 months. They need a break on spending some money because they have a new baby. I get it. I have given him the pricing on good pads and rotors from RA.

I then moved to the lower control arms looking for "cracks". I inspected both arms completely and also where they mount at and found no cracks, What I did find were small age surface cracks in the rubber at the rear bushings of the control, arm on each side. Nothing even remotely unsafe for several more miles and nothing that would contribute to the wear of the front brakes, like Les Schwab had insinuated. I told him there is no safety issue and that the brake pads and rotors, at the front, can wait for another month or two or until he/she hears the brake squealer noises. I explained to him what he would hear and what will happen when he hears the noise and hits the brakes. See pics of the bushings.

Be aware, the pics you see are at full drop/droop and the bushing is at full flex. when tires are on and vehicle is on ground, you cannot even see the small surface cracks. Sure, the cracks are not perfect but there is still a bunch of miles left in those bushings/arms.


I also did inform the owner, when his church friends/farmer buddies do the brake work, if they need any info at all, they could call me and get that info at no charge. I have the high temp grease I like to use for my brake work on caliper slides and if the old drum brakes, where the shoes make contact at the backing plates. I told him they could take and use that grease at no charge.

 

[OR VietVet]

Started yesterday evening on the 2007 Lexus RX350. This is the one I changed the plugs and the ignition coils on and had to take the throttle body and intake plenum off for clearance. To do that I removed the wiper arms, the upper cowling, the wiper motor and transmissions assembly and the lower cowling. Went pretty smooth except for tight quarters. The plug tubes angle is so severe that could not put a spark plug socket and a long enough locking extension in there. The rear 3 cylinders had to be done with the socket, 3" locking extension, and then hold in place to attach another 3" wobble extension and then drop in and attach a 3/8" flex head ratchet and when pulling plug out had to take the extension set up apart, a piece at a time. Finally got them all 3 done. Then was doing the real easy to get to 3 cylinders up front. Removed all 3 attaching bolts that held coils in place. lifting them out and the center coil boot came out with 1/2 boot and the other half still attach at spark plug. I used flexible garb fingers to get the rest out and that alone took lots of digging, spray some carb clean in the hole to coax the boot to release the grip from the plug. Took 1.5 hours for that. Came out in pieces. Finally came all out and was then able to get a plug socket on it. Mind you it is low 90's while doing all this today. Cleaned throttle bore, reassembled everything on top and both halves of cowling and the wiper motor and arms and verified that started and ran great. Replaced worn out liftgate struts and the right rear side marker light housing, was busted. Got lots of dirt clods in my face on that one. Total charges of 9 hours labor at my rate. See some of the pics. The owner said just yesterday, for the first time, the CEL came on intermittently and engine would "skip a beat". The ignition coil was corroded badly and ate up that boot and coil is no good. I am gonna sell the other 5 Toyota coils for $20 each.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, the wife of a friend at the American Legion is going to list her 1965 16k miles, Mustang on B.A.T. It has a factory manual 4 speed transmission, factory option luggage rack on the trunk lid, is a power

convertible and has been redone in black, 289 2bbl carb and has dual exhaust, olive green paint with very minor surface scratches in about 3-4 places. Interior is in very good condition and never been wrecked. She is coming by Monday for me to shoot more pics for the auction at B.A.T. and I need to get undercarriage shots. Here is just a few pics I shot the other day at her place.

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[Fless]

A bit of déjà-vu for me -- that has the same instrument cluster as my first car, a 1964 Falcon. There's a 5v regulator mounted on the backside of the cluster and if it goes bad, the gauges go to max positions.

 

[justchecking]

A bit of déjà-vu for me -- that has the same instrument cluster as my first car, a 1964 Falcon. There's a 5v regulator mounted on the backside of the cluster and if it goes bad, the gauges go to max positions.

Looks familiar as well, we had a 64 Comet, the first car to go 100,000 miles at 100MPH in testing. We also had a Falcon (Zip Zip to us kids), it may have been a 62.