There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[iamdub]

Been a long time since I looked at a carb and choke assembly.

Carbs are for outdoor power equipment and bongs.

 

[OR VietVet]

Choke.....

 

[ivin74]

You say that now! Who knows what's in store for us tomorrow?

You hit the nail on the head, very true

 

[gooffeyguy]

Carbs are for outdoor power equipment and bongs.

The Chevy 350 in my '33 is carbed. I've thought about switching it over with one of those fuel injection kits that comes with a replacement carb and all the wiring/sensors/electronics but it is so simple the way it is now, not many wires, sensors, or controller boxes.

 

[Sam Harris]

The Chevy 350 in my '33 is carbed. I've thought about switching it over with one of those fuel injection kits that comes with a replacement carb and all the wiring/sensors/electronics but it is so simple the way it is now, not many wires, sensors, or controller boxes.

View attachment 401471

And when the EMP fries all our computer chips, you’ll still have an operating vehicle.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Whenever something's needing to be done to one of our vehicles I always get an estimate from the shop down the road beforehand. Then my wife asks me how much it would cost me in parts to do it and how big of a job is it.

Usually about half the cost, but then my wife asks me if the extra cost is worth a day and a half of my cursing, running to parts stores multiple times, and how sore I'd be afterwards, if it'd just be better to pay the extra money and have the shop do it, lol.

Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. Sometimes I'd rather pay the extra $200-300 and not have to worry about anything. Just drop it off and pick it up later and get other things done while it's there.

Then again, this is for our own vehicles and I'm not making any money by doing it, only saving ourselves money, lol

$550 is a good full days profit

Your wife and my wife think alike. And, truth be told, they are usually right.

 

[swathdiver]

One of my continuing frustrations with having someone else do the work, is that it either isn't done to my liking and or something gets damaged.

The two times in 25 years my wife took the cars to get the oil changed because I was sick and both times, years apart, different shops, they over-filled the engines with oil.

Another time, I was laid up in bed again and a friend took our car to get fixed for us. It came back with a bulged hood when someone put a jumper box on top of the engine and slammed the hood down on it. Kindergarten let out early that day!

Nobody is more interested in the well-being of your car, then you, the owner. Generally speaking of course!

 

[OR VietVet]

I have to be sure of all work I do and decisions I make while I work on these rigs because my customer pool is neighbors that I live very close to or American Legion/VFW members that I see regularly. I make sure that they understand, "I will diagnose/fix/repair it my way or I will not work on it". I take responsibility for my work but not for what I find. I ask for lots of info beforehand, I want to see paperwork and if is guesswork, I document that. I get in a vehicle and check all dash/steering column/wheel controls to see what works and what doesn't, so they cannot say I did something. I encourage them to stick around while I diagnose to SHOW them. I make videos of what I find during the repair, if they are not here, and pics as well. I forward that info asap.

When I told my next door neighbor, about his Camry, that he not only had a whine noise from the alternator that went away when unplugged, I showed him with my DVOM that when running, it was not charging. I then showed him what my Tahoe does when charging. I then made a video of his new alternator charging and that the whine was gone.

I SHOWED and I PROVED all aspects of the vehicle diagnosis and repair.

 

[randeez]

back in my day....
we didnt complain so much and just fixed the damn car

 

[Doubeleive]

Carbs are for outdoor power equipment and bongs.

Holley would disagree, lol

 

[OR VietVet]

Went to work yesterday on a 1997 GMC K1500 intermittent no crank and/or slow crank before starting. Suspected starter. Great voltage at battery and while cranking and when running charged great. Checked voltage at starter and was same as the battery and no voltage drop problems. I removed starter and was loaded with oil. Has many leaks of oil and transmission. The solenoid post for the battery cable was loose internally and the nut holding the cable on the stud was not tight. Was crammed in there and a PITA to get out and in but went ok. Charged $250 total for diagnostics, labor and run to the parts store. He is happy. Next up with him is the 85 F150 carb/choke problem.

Took in a 2010 FJ Cruiser today. Degrease engine, replacing timing chain tensioner cover gasket-source of severe oil leak. Oil pressure switch-does anyone know where that little turd is located. Can't see it yet. Both washer nozzles on the hood. PCV valve. Rear wiper blade. Already fixed passenger side step runner. Missing bolt at front and was spongy when stepped on. Clean throttle bore...

 

[OR VietVet]

I mean it, does anyone know where the oil pressure switch is on this 2010 FJ Cruiser?

 

[Fless]

Looks like near the oil filter on that V6: https://www.troublecodes.net/sensors/toyota-1gr-fe-4-0l/

I think this is the same engine, but not sure. Somewhat blurry video below but it shows where it is. I don't condone his choice of removal tools for this purpose.

 

[OR VietVet]

Looks like near the oil filter on that V6: https://www.troublecodes.net/sensors/toyota-1gr-fe-4-0l/

I think this is the same engine, but not sure. Somewhat blurry video below but it shows where it is. I don't condone his choice of removal tools for this purpose.

The link photo was one I found as well but was no help and the video is not the same. The oil fill for this 4.0 engine is up top at front left of engine, like where the oil filter is in the video. The oil filter is a cartridge that is down under the engine at the right rear. I will be looking there for the oil pressure switch. I degreased the front and lower right of the engine and did not crawl under there yesterday. It is drip dry over night now and I would bet that switch is down there. The switch I thought was it, turned out to be the power steering pressure switch. No worries, I will find it.

I did search and search on the internet and did not find any pic and no where on you tube does it show the location during a switch replacement. If my girl was here, she could crawl under there with me and do a video so I could post at you tube.

 

[iamdub]

...truth be told, they are usually right.

Does she read your posts here? Total violation of Bro Code if she sees you admitted this.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Does she read your posts here? Total violation of Bro Code if she sees you admitted this.

I would NEVER break the Bro Code. LOL

 

[iamdub]

Choke.....

Time to pass it, Hoss...

The Chevy 350 in my '33 is carbed. I've thought about switching it over with one of those fuel injection kits that comes with a replacement carb and all the wiring/sensors/electronics but it is so simple the way it is now, not many wires, sensors, or controller boxes.

View attachment 401471

I think a carb is just fine for such a car. You could go EFI and do a good job with hiding the wiring and all to maintain the aesthetic. But if it's not a daily and you're not constantly fighting the carb every time the weather changes and it runs fine when that A/C cycles, you're golden. A friend got the Holley Sniper kit for his project truck- '94 Silverado with a built 350, big cam, loose stall, etc. It started out really well with the self-learning part but he's been having some guy in Australia tweak it. We haven't talked about it in a while but, coincidentally, he hit me up yesterday asking about an idle issue when the A/C engages.

Holley would disagree, lol
View attachment 401492

FiTech would disagree with Holley, lol

 

[iamdub]

And when the EMP fries all our computer chips, you’ll still have an operating vehicle.

And what better vehicle to bomb around in a nuclear fallout than a hot-rodded '33?!

 

[gooffeyguy]

Time to pass it, Hoss...




I think a carb is just fine for such a car. You could go EFI and do a good job with hiding the wiring and all to maintain the aesthetic. But if it's not a daily and you're not constantly fighting the carb every time the weather changes and it runs fine when that A/C cycles, you're golden. A friend got the Holley Sniper kit for his project truck- '94 Silverado with a built 350, big cam, loose stall, etc. It started out really well with the self-learning part but he's been having some guy in Australia tweak it. We haven't talked about it in a while but, coincidentally, he hit me up yesterday asking about an idle issue when the A/C engages.





FiTech would disagree with Holley, lol
View attachment 401617

My 95 mustang is OBD1 and in the tuning I have it raise idle 50rpm when the AC cycles (AC switch rpm parameter). I'm not sure exactly how the 33 does it with the carb. There's probably a small solenoid on the idle linkage that engages when the AC does.

 

[Fless]

The link photo was one I found as well but was no help and the video is not the same. The oil fill for this 4.0 engine is up top at front left of engine, like where the oil filter is in the video. The oil filter is a cartridge that is down under the engine at the right rear. I will be looking there for the oil pressure switch. I degreased the front and lower right of the engine and did not crawl under there yesterday. It is drip dry over night now and I would bet that switch is down there. The switch I thought was it, turned out to be the power steering pressure switch. No worries, I will find it.

I did search and search on the internet and did not find any pic and no where on you tube does it show the location during a switch replacement. If my girl was here, she could crawl under there with me and do a video so I could post at you tube.

Get the engine type from the label under the hood, that might help with a search. The link I posted was for the 1GR-FE engine.