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swathdiver

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Well finally got truck to shop and the bad news is, I blew a valve, that's what is all ticking about. They are telling me I need a new motor and its not worth putting any money in a motor with 220K miles. Any suggestions. Used 5.3 are going for at least $2,500 with low miles. Or do I get the heads done? The motor already needs rear main seal, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. What do you suggest. The trucks interior and exterior is 100%
If there is no damage to the piston and the rods didn't get bent on that crank journal, why not repair/replace the head and soldier on? Sure beats $4K for a newer unknown engine.

Have you checked LKQ online for used 5.3s from 2007-2009 here in Florida? Let me see... Well, there's hardly anything available across the nation let alone Florida and the prices start at $2700+. There's a 6.2 L9H for sale for $3800 with 154K in Illinois...
 
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FINALTOUCHFRI

FINALTOUCHFRI

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I will find out vin in morning. Damn truck still drives like a champ but sounds like crap.
 

exp500

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It really doesn't seem like a 7 cylinder engine from your descriptions. I'm questioning the diagnosis of bad valve.
How about you look at exhaust manifold bolts and see if one is missing/broken.
 

wjburken

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It really doesn't seem like a 7 cylinder engine from your descriptions. I'm questioning the diagnosis of bad valve.
How about you look at exhaust manifold bolts and see if one is missing/broken.
Agree.
 

wjburken

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I will find out vin in morning. Damn truck still drives like a champ but sounds like crap.
Before I would drive much more, I’d do some further diagnostics myself.

Have you checked for a blown exhaust manifold gasket like @swathdiver suggested?

Check the manifold bolts as well like @exp500 just suggested.

How far deep did the mechanic go before he concluded it’s a blown valve? Pull the valve covers and look at valve movement? Compression test? Borescope? Or did he just listen and make an educated guess?

Not questioning the mechanics motivation, but I’ve found that some mechanics will default to suggesting a replacement motor versus doing a partial teardown. The cost of parts and labor is sometimes a wash between the two and replacing a motor takes less time than tear down, fix, rebuild so it frees up a bay sooner.
 

Doubeleive

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First 8 of my VIN is 1GNFC130
so what you want to look for as far as plug-n-play is a LMG there are several on ebay and prices are around what you have seen already,
but if you luck out on something newer for a deal and you can fit it in, then any tuner such as blackbear can tune the existing computer to run the motor even if the vin does not match. I would be looking around locally and checking for part outs on craigslist, offer up, facebook marketplace, etc might take a little time to find a good deal but if you check in the morning and evening everyday you might get lucky.
you might also check around in any nearby big city for a rebuilt usually they are not that much more than a used motor and will have some kind of warranty usually 1 year or xxxx miles. you might also check some of the popular online rebuilders for a quote, I bet for $4k or less you could end up with a decent motor with a couple extra pony's from the rebuild process.
 
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FINALTOUCHFRI

FINALTOUCHFRI

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FINALTOUCHFRI

FINALTOUCHFRI

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The previous mechanic didn't break it down at all. I guess his Bionic ear revealed a bad valve. Getting a second opinion today. Maybe his ear is better.
 
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FINALTOUCHFRI

FINALTOUCHFRI

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Second mechanic just confirmed needs a valve job! Now, should I take the chance and do a valve job or just replace it. Valve job is alot cheaper then the motor swap for sure
 

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