Need help

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

Just recently, I was on the highway and I punched the gas and I heard a loud pop under the hood. I didn't loose any power in the truck and it ran fine all the way home but when I parked the truck and let it idol, there is a loud ticking under the hood, like a bad sticking valve or something. Also notice oil gauge is fluctuating. Dont know if its related. The truck idol fine with no shakes or misses.

 

[swathdiver]

Probably blew an exhaust manifold gasket. Put a long extension or screwdriver to your ear and move it around the running engine to isolate the sound.

 

[89Suburban]

Probably blew an exhaust manifold gasket. Put a long extension or screwdriver to your ear and move it around the running engine to isolate the sound.

Hopefully that's all it is.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Those pesky punch WOT situations.... Last summer, I pulled a WOT at a stop light, and it blew my heater hose right off the Tee at the fire wall and emptied my coolant all over the engine bay and street.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

I will get to it today. Thanks fellas

 

[donjetman]

Those pesky punch WOT situations.... Last summer, I pulled a WOT at a stop light, and it blew my heater hose right off the Tee at the fire wall and emptied my coolant all over the engine bay and street.

I had the same thing happen a couple of winters ago. Plastic T broke. I had new aluminum Gruven Ts in the seat back pocket that I had been putting off installing. Forced my hand and all has been well since.

 

[89Suburban]

Heater Tees?? Do you thing he would make it home??

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

Well finally got truck to shop and the bad news is, I blew a valve, that's what is all ticking about. They are telling me I need a new motor and its not worth putting any money in a motor with 220K miles. Any suggestions. Used 5.3 are going for at least $2,500 with low miles. Or do I get the heads done? The motor already needs rear main seal, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. What do you suggest. The trucks interior and exterior is 100%

 

[Doubeleive]

Well finally got truck to shop and the bad news is, I blew a valve, that's what is all ticking about. They are telling me I need a new motor and its not worth putting any money in a motor with 220K miles. Any suggestions. Used 5.3 are going for at least $2,500 with low miles. Or do I get the heads done? The motor already needs rear main seal, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. What do you suggest. The trucks interior and exterior is 100%

what is the 8th character in your vin?

 

[Geotrash]

Well finally got truck to shop and the bad news is, I blew a valve, that's what is all ticking about. They are telling me I need a new motor and its not worth putting any money in a motor with 220K miles. Any suggestions. Used 5.3 are going for at least $2,500 with low miles. Or do I get the heads done? The motor already needs rear main seal, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. What do you suggest. The trucks interior and exterior is 100%

Damn. If you dropped a valve, then there's damage to at least the piston and probably the cylinder walls too so you'll need to pull the heads at least, but will likely need a new block and bottom end too. Sorry to hear the bad news. $2500 for a low mileage unit seems like a fair deal if you love the truck and it's still in good shape.

 

[swathdiver]

Well finally got truck to shop and the bad news is, I blew a valve, that's what is all ticking about. They are telling me I need a new motor and its not worth putting any money in a motor with 220K miles. Any suggestions. Used 5.3 are going for at least $2,500 with low miles. Or do I get the heads done? The motor already needs rear main seal, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. What do you suggest. The trucks interior and exterior is 100%

If there is no damage to the piston and the rods didn't get bent on that crank journal, why not repair/replace the head and soldier on? Sure beats $4K for a newer unknown engine.

Have you checked LKQ online for used 5.3s from 2007-2009 here in Florida? Let me see... Well, there's hardly anything available across the nation let alone Florida and the prices start at $2700+. There's a 6.2 L9H for sale for $3800 with 154K in Illinois...

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

I will find out vin in morning. Damn truck still drives like a champ but sounds like crap.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

First 8 of my VIN is 1GNFC130

 

[exp500]

It really doesn't seem like a 7 cylinder engine from your descriptions. I'm questioning the diagnosis of bad valve.
How about you look at exhaust manifold bolts and see if one is missing/broken.

 

[wjburken]

It really doesn't seem like a 7 cylinder engine from your descriptions. I'm questioning the diagnosis of bad valve.
How about you look at exhaust manifold bolts and see if one is missing/broken.

Agree.

 

[wjburken]

I will find out vin in morning. Damn truck still drives like a champ but sounds like crap.

Before I would drive much more, I’d do some further diagnostics myself.

Have you checked for a blown exhaust manifold gasket like @swathdiver suggested?

Check the manifold bolts as well like @exp500 just suggested.

How far deep did the mechanic go before he concluded it’s a blown valve? Pull the valve covers and look at valve movement? Compression test? Borescope? Or did he just listen and make an educated guess?

Not questioning the mechanics motivation, but I’ve found that some mechanics will default to suggesting a replacement motor versus doing a partial teardown. The cost of parts and labor is sometimes a wash between the two and replacing a motor takes less time than tear down, fix, rebuild so it frees up a bay sooner.

 

[Doubeleive]

First 8 of my VIN is 1GNFC130

so what you want to look for as far as plug-n-play is a LMG there are several on ebay and prices are around what you have seen already,
but if you luck out on something newer for a deal and you can fit it in, then any tuner such as blackbear can tune the existing computer to run the motor even if the vin does not match. I would be looking around locally and checking for part outs on craigslist, offer up, facebook marketplace, etc might take a little time to find a good deal but if you check in the morning and evening everyday you might get lucky.
you might also check around in any nearby big city for a rebuilt usually they are not that much more than a used motor and will have some kind of warranty usually 1 year or xxxx miles. you might also check some of the popular online rebuilders for a quote, I bet for $4k or less you could end up with a decent motor with a couple extra pony's from the rebuild process.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

Thanks swathdiver for the link. LKQ online. I got connected with a A&A Auto and Truck in Orlando

Chevrolet Silverado 1500 – GMC Sierra 1500 – Tahoe – Yukon – Avalanche Vin 0 or J Engine 5.3L 2007 2008 2009

autopartsorlando.com

Driving down to see motor tomorrow. Under 80K miles for $2,599. I figure another 1k for parts and labor.

Just feel better replacing then putting a couple of thousand in a 220k motor.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

The previous mechanic didn't break it down at all. I guess his Bionic ear revealed a bad valve. Getting a second opinion today. Maybe his ear is better.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

Second mechanic just confirmed needs a valve job! Now, should I take the chance and do a valve job or just replace it. Valve job is alot cheaper then the motor swap for sure