It’s your call. Now that you have better information, you just need to call the ball.
What’s the price delta between getting a valve job and the $3500-$4000 for motor swap?
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- Thread starter FINALTOUCHFRI
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What’s the price delta between getting a valve job and the $3500-$4000 for motor swap?
OP
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FINALTOUCHFRI
Full Access Member
Well just ran the google reviews for this place and they sell alot of motors that are not what is listed. Many many bad reviews. Guess I will keep looking. I will also look for a shop that does legitimate head work
swathdiver
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@Dantheman1540
Dan lives not too far away, he's bound to know reliable folks since he's always tinkering inside motors.
"some" napa stores do head work or they used too anyway
swathdiver
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Duraburb is in Sanford. Why don't you ask him who he might recommend through Facebook or his website? He's responded to my questions over the years.
iamdub
Full Access Member
If it runs smoothly and strongly and you wanna keep it going for a cheaply as possible, I think some used, lower-mileage heads would be the the cheapest and quickest solution. You're looking at $200-$400 for heads (I often see 'em for $300ish in my area), $60 for a set of head gaskets, $50 for head bolts, $50 for intake manifold gaskets, $20 for exhaust manifold gaskets and $11 for exhaust manifold bolts (or use ARP- $32 but worth it). Don't forget the coolant and oil.
I'd compare this to having someone refresh or rebuild your current heads, though. At least then you'd have clean heads, new seals, a valve job (even if just lapped), maybe new guides and a resurfacing.
Of course, none of this will do anything for the leaky seals. Even if you did find an honestly low-mileage replacement, you still should replace all the seals before you installed it as cheap insurance.
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
My motor dropped a valve almost two years ago, I slapped a new head on with a bigger cam and have been letting it rip at 7k since. I vote new head and keep on trucking. If you have time buy a $30 amazon borescope and put it down the spark plug hole. My assumption is that if it’s running fine it just needs a new head or possibly just a new valve. Which is a pretty easy job to do.
As far as shops in central Florida I only trust myself been burned a few times unfortunately. If I had more time I’d jump on helping but I’m swamped! Got a engine change half done in my shop now.
As far as shops in central Florida I only trust myself been burned a few times unfortunately. If I had more time I’d jump on helping but I’m swamped! Got a engine change half done in my shop now.
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FINALTOUCHFRI
Full Access Member
I would love to do this the cheapest way but I have no one I can trust to do this kind of work. I been burned already for a rear main seal job that wasn't even done right. If I can get away with a head job and even throwing in a upgraded cam, I can runs this for another couple of years that would be awesome. Im already looking at least $3,500 swap out for a used motor. I love "iamdumb"'s suggestion but I have nobody to do it. If I was back in NY mechanics are a dime a dozen.
Hey Dan give me a shout when you can. Got a bunch of questions since you seem to know more then a majority of these mechanics here in central Orlando 757 438 6326. Steve
All,
I just had my boy recommend a remanufactured block for $3,400. He said it would be 1K to swap out motors parts and labor. 6 month warranty. Just need to swap external parts from old motor to new. Kind of pricey but seems to be the most trustworthy way besides "iamdumbs" suggestion. Thank you for all of your input. Going on 3 weeks without my HOE!
Hey Dan give me a shout when you can. Got a bunch of questions since you seem to know more then a majority of these mechanics here in central Orlando 757 438 6326. Steve
All,
I just had my boy recommend a remanufactured block for $3,400. He said it would be 1K to swap out motors parts and labor. 6 month warranty. Just need to swap external parts from old motor to new. Kind of pricey but seems to be the most trustworthy way besides "iamdumbs" suggestion. Thank you for all of your input. Going on 3 weeks without my HOE!
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FINALTOUCHFRI
Full Access Member
I called Duraburb in Sanford and they only do conversions and they dont know anyone that works or repairs motors. Strange ;(
iamdub
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I'm not dumb.
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FINALTOUCHFRI
Full Access Member
Update!!!!! So I brought it to a local machine shop that had great reviews. He referred me to a local mechanic that works on and pulls motors. Well, dropped it off three weeks ago and got nothing but the run around because two mechanics quit and one got sick. He was able to pull a valve cover during these three weeks and he said that there was a lifter and a rocker that was bad. He said for him to know if there is any other damage he would have to pull the head. After seeing how long it took him to get this far I told him to put it back together and I will find someone else. WTH!!!!! Now that I got the truck back, I have no A/C in the truck. The blower in the front doesn't turn on at all. The dashboard controller comes on and I can control the rear but nothing in the front. Is there something he could have disconnected when he pulled the valve cover?
iamdub
Full Access Member
Is the rear A/C cool? Nothing other than the coil pack and PCV hose should've been disconnected when pulling a valve cover. The passenger side is a little tight because of the heater hoses, but is still well away from the A/C lines. Which valve cover did he pull?
It could be a coincidence. Maybe they had the battery disconnected during their diagnostics and the controller is a little scrambled and just needs a reset (which, I think is removing power for a length of time).
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FINALTOUCHFRI
Full Access Member
I believe the drivers side had the issue. Rear ac is not getting cold but it is blowing.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Hopefully, it's just a minor electronic issue and not a lost charge (leak). As for proper diagnostics of this particular side of it, I'm not the one for that.
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FINALTOUCHFRI
Full Access Member
no worries TY
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Both you guys have no rear AC? Ought to park those things side by side and get it worked out! LOL
Is the truck running?
Is the truck running?
iamdub
Full Access Member
Garage party in Florida? You bring the Tech2 and we'll bring the broken Hoes.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
You got it!
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FINALTOUCHFRI
Full Access Member
Update!!!!! Just picked truck up from another shop that has given me the run around for two weeks. His price went up every two days because he needs to pull heads off and do a thorough inspection of the motor which he claimed he already did. Is there anyone in the state florida that knows what the hell they are doing. One mechanic says a head job, another says a full rebuild, another says valve and lifter damage, another says just go for a remanufactor and use your old outter parts. These guys are costing me mone with all these damn guessing. !!!! WTH???? Any ideas fellas/gals. I have put aside atleast $3,500 to get this right
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FINALTOUCHFRI
Full Access Member
Well while Im looking for someone to work on my motor issues Im stilll trying to figure out why I have no air blowing out the front vents. The indicator shows the fan is suppose to be going from hi to low but nothing is coming out. The ac compressor is clicking on and off and lines are cold but I get nothing in the inside. No air, no heat no nothing. Rear air blows low but not cold at all. I checked all relays and fuses and all appears fine. Im wondering if the fan blower just happened to go. SMH!!!
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