HELP—2018 Yukon rear pads/rotors DESTROYED after dealer rotation

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2018YUKONSLT

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2018 Yukon rear pads/rotors DESTROYED after dealer rotation, fronts still 5mm, constant drag, no noise.

Yukon family. We have a 2018 GMC YUKON we purchased certified-pre owned at a dealership in 2021 with 36k miles. It now has 92k miles.

ISSUES 1: Build quality, loose overhead console with trunk opening door was loose fixed. It was not fixed properly as it’s now loose again.

ISSUE 2: After getting high insurance rates, I called my insurance only to have them tell me this truck was in a wreck that the dealer failed to tell me. Now I have to pay more for insurance. Lucky me.

ISSUE 3: AC went out, fixed under extended warranty, now it stopped cooling.

ISSUE 3: Rims were scratched during tire rotations: Dealer fixed them.

ISSUE 4: Had oil change and tire rotations done.

Wednesday I’m driving all normal all of a sudden the brakes are curbing against the metal. Then I notice smoking coming from the rear brakes.

I took it to dealer Thursday only to have the service advisor to tell me the rear brakes are completely destroyed along with the rotors. WOW.

The truck brakes were fine no issue before I took it in.
It feels like the truck rear brakes are dragging the truck, like holding it from rolling smoothly.

Now dealer wants to sell me a new brakes with rotors for $1,100.00!

Anyone else dealt with this?

Service advisor told me the front brakes are fine still at 5mm. How can the rear be completely abolished, when I don’t tow or load anything heavy on it. Considering this is a front wheel drive vehicle. The the main brake is at the front, not back. Truck still dragging of of today and have no braking from back at all, all in a couple of days after tire rotations.
 
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2018YUKONSLT

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The brake pads are original, but being that the front are still at 5mm, how could the rear possibly be done?
 
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2018YUKONSLT

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Could it be the parking brake shoes? Meaning even if the rear brakes are replaced and rotors, I’m still going have the same issue, until corrected?
 
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2018YUKONSLT

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You are correct, our is a RWD. However the drag force still is something that worries me. Case being, that’s the main culprit on our vehicle. For example right now I’m driven even as I’m coasting at low speeds you hear the brakes grinding without me pressing the brakes. It’s coasting and grading is the issue. Say we replace the pads the issue will come up and wear out future brake pads is what I guess trying to say.
 
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2018YUKONSLT

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Now the rear brake pads are grinding while I’m coasting and not pressing brake.
 

tom3

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These vehicles are heavy and those rear brake pads are small compared to the fronts. Those rear brakes really do some work and wear out faster than you'd think. And there are caliper sliding pins that get corroded and lock the caliper in place which really wears the pads uneven. I'd suggest finding a decent mechanic that knows how to work on the GM brakes and have new pads at all four wheels and new rotors on the back, and also give the parking brake a good inspection. Brakes are important.
 
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2018YUKONSLT

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Yes sir, copy that. Thank you do your response. What do you think that dragging feel is at the rear tho? Because if it’s a tech error even when I replace the brakes they are just going wear out fast again is my guess. The truck is dragging the rear wheels like I’m forcing it to drive and drinking gas like crazy, again it was not like that when I took it in. As of today the noise has worsened, now the brakes are grinding while I’m coasting and not pressing on brake.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

I gotta say, if the brakes are grinding while you are driving, get the truck off the road and into a trusted local repair shop for repairs. It will cost you less than the dealer. The more that they grind, the greater the heat buildup, and that could affect the brake lines and the bearings, in addition to destroying the calipers.
 

ReaperHWK

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Time for new pads and rotors in the rear; they are just worn out. Simple as that. I don’t see how the dealership is to blame for anything except their inflated parts and labor rates?

Grinding is becuase you have no pad left and the metal backing plate is digging into the rotors. You need pads and rotors period. Any good shop will also grease the slide pins and replace all the pad retainers.

If you want to save money you can DIY for probably $200.


That has everything needed for $160.
 

Doubeleive

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the rear brakes are grinding because they are completely worn out, that's what happens when the pads are gone it's metal-on-metal
as for the accident, you didn't ask for a carfax????? (that's on you)
a previous accident by another party is not a reason for increased insurance rates, (maybe that's a state issue?)
if the outside temperature is too cool the ac is not going to have any effect other than as a dehumidifier (clarify not cooling) i.e. if the work was done in the last 12 months then it should have a parts warranty even if it was done via insurance claim.
as noted you can do the brakes yourself and save a boat load of money, there rather easy to do. If you have never done brakes there are hundreds if not thousands of youtube video's
 
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2018YUKONSLT

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Wes, thanks for replying. Yes I agree with every you said, I take responsibility for not asking for a carfax. That’s totally on me. I have no experience changing brakes but damn I think I should learn.
 

Doubeleive

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Wes, thanks for replying. Yes I agree with every you said, I take responsibility for not asking for a carfax. That’s totally on me. I have no experience changing brakes but damn I think I should learn.
for $1100 I would, lol
hell I did way way way back when I was told $399 (i'm talking 35+ years ago) I was like oh hell no, the parts are $50 (probably less).......and I can get the rotors turned for $10
 
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2018YUKONSLT

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Yes sir, these dealers are crazy. This was definitely a hard lesson learned, thank everyone for helping a brother out. It definitely opened my eyes to a lot of things.
 

Fless

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I would recommend parking it and agree with @Joseph Garcia. Not only is driving it possibly causing more damage, you're putting your family and others in danger by not having fully functioning brakes.

Don't forget that the parking brake shoes will likely need to be replaced. We don't know if just the regular brake pads are needed, but if the parking brake shoes are worn or compromised the internal surface of the rotor hat may be torn up. Do the whole job, or have a qualified shop inspect and estimate repair.
 
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2018YUKONSLT

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Totally agree, with you. I parked the truck, and true with putting my family and others at risk. So, yes I was actually thinking of replacing the parking brake shoes to. It’s going be a good little project. Thanks again.
 

swathdiver

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Wednesday I’m driving all normal all of a sudden the brakes are curbing against the metal. Then I notice smoking coming from the rear brakes.

Use GM OE parts if you want them to last another 100K miles. Inspect the slide pins every tire rotation or at least once a year. When the slide pins are dry or dirty the inner pad will tend to wear faster than the outer pad. Your parking brake shoes may need to be replaced as well. They ride very close to the drum, less than a millimeter once adjusted properly.

If the pads wore at an angle, that can be a sign of piston wear in the calipers and they ought to be rebuilt or replaced.

When my front pads are heading towards 1/8" of thickness, replacement is coming soon. We usually have a set of front and rear brakes sitting on the shelves.
 

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