Magnuson Supercharger, Valve Train and other supporting mods. 2007-2013, 5.3L Chevy Tahoe

[BlackBearPerf]

I believe I did read 2 as well email 3 files, if need it will do it again

The third file was a .efx file which we don't need. It will be a .ctz file just like the engine tune file you sent. Your data log you sent is the .efi file.

 

[97audia4]

I don’t have FB and all the videos he has posted play fine for me...maybe it’s your browser?



Having owned both I would definitively conclude you can’t go wrong either way, one isn’t better than the other....think of it as like choosing between Lamborghini or Ferrari, there’s no wrong answer, neither has a clear cut advantage over the other

here are some side by side pics I took for comparison:

Top kooks 1 3/4" // Bottom ARH 1 3/4" (both for NNBS trucks and SUVs)

If anything I might give the slight design edge to ARH as you can see below on the passenger side header (1st pic) with the Kooks you have to route a starter ground wire (requires removing 1 bolt) through the primaries where as with the ARH design you never have to touch this wire and it already clears underneath the header, but then again when it comes to the y pipe design I prefer the Kooks Y as they offer a Y Pipe specific to the year model since they changed the cat-back connection between 07-08 and 09-14...Kooks offers 2 different Y Pipes where as ARH Y Pipe just comes pre fit for 07/08 and includes an adapter for the later years

I like the comparison , are the adapters know to leak? I have ordered a set of ARH with the high flow cats and will be running stock muffler and res on a 6.2

OP, looking forward to see how this turns out and the power it puts down.

 

[Chrismnj]

AirAid intake installation update, so far happy with the product, only complain would be lack of clamps for PVC breather line which I have add it (not really sure if its that important).

View from the top

added PCV clamp #1

added PCV clamp #2

view from the bottom of the truck

 

[Chrismnj]

I'm personally not a fan of the boots but the ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ceramic Spark Plug Wire #9002C is what I decided to run... I made them to length but the ones you posted look plenty long, mine are a touch shorter.


They both are great headers and you can't go wrong with either... I will say the build/fit quality on the Kooks are amazing. Details like in this post below are why I love them. My truck sounds like a freaking beast, no video or sound clip does it justice.

it looks like they will work AC Delco OEM vs Accel length.

 

[Chrismnj]

clamp #1 and 2

 

[01FormulaTA]

I like the comparison , are the adapters know to leak? I have ordered a set of ARH with the high flow cats and will be running stock muffler and res on a 6.2

OP, looking forward to see how this turns out and the power it puts down.

No, I never had any issues with anything leaking. When installing them I would just get everything hand tight and once you have the whole system installed and you are happy with all the clearances go back and snug everything down. Also I recommend going with OEM MLS exhaust manifold gaskets.

 

[Chrismnj]

AC Delco for sure... As I mentioned, you may want 1 stage colder though and iridium doesn't do well for high cylinder pressure. Great for a 100k mile plug though

*start with an AC Delco LSA plug from a CTSv or ZL1 Camaro if you want OEM

it a big deal to find copper spark plugs these days.

 

[12BlackTahoe]

what do you guys think as far as dyno numbers?

Good morning, as the original thread title says I was only going to slap Supercharger on and call it a day, well this is quickly turning in to bigger project. Many of you have asked me about supporting mods, so I have put a list of all parts so far, I guess I will update this at later time as I am sure this list will grow.

1. Magnacharger TVS1900
2. BlackBear Tune
3. Airaid 202-270 AIRAID MXP Series Cold Air Dam Intake System
4. Kooks Y-Pipe 28553200
5. Kooks Longtube Headers 28502400, *ceramic coating
* Magnaflow exhaust already installed
6. Moroso 85481 Air/Oil Separator
7. Auto Meter 17118 Triple Pillar Gauge Pad
8. GlowShift Black Gauges
9. Accel 9070C Extreme Ceramic 135 degree boot Plug Wires
10. AC Delco 12673134 Oil Pressure Sensor
11. AC Delco Ignition Coil D513A
12. ACDelco 12617944 GM Original Equipment Exhaust Manifold Gasket
13. Stage 8 8900 Locking Header Bolt Kit for GM Small Block

* Considering valve-train upgrade.

what do you guys think as far as dyno numbers?

 

[67RS427]

it a big deal to find copper spark plugs these days.

I know lol, I don't know why. Problem is the idiots and software they use at the parts store won't look up anything at all without a vehicle description. The days of easy cross-referencing and finding spare parts for custom stuff easily is over. Any time I look for a part for my truck I have them look up a CTS V or ZL1. Try the plug number I gave you. It's 1 stage colder than a stock LSA (good for up to 15psi) and it's a nice OEM style copper plug. Copper is the way to go if you're over 10psi. Cylinder pressure makes those iridium plug harder to fire. Just look how tiny the surface area is on the electrode compared to a copper one. It's a tiny pin versus .100"-.125" on the copper. Your ignition will run better under high boost and cylinder pressures.

 

[Chrismnj]

I know lol, I don't know why. Problem is the idiots and software they use at the parts store won't look up anything at all without a vehicle description. The days of easy cross-referencing and finding spare parts for custom stuff easily is over. Any time I look for a part for my truck I have them look up a CTS V or ZL1. Try the plug number I gave you. It's 1 stage colder than a stock LSA (good for up to 15psi) and it's a nice OEM style copper plug. Copper is the way to go if you're over 10psi. Cylinder pressure makes those iridium plug harder to fire. Just look how tiny the surface area is on the electrode compared to a copper one. It's a tiny pin versus .100"-.125" on the copper. Your ignition will run better under high boost and cylinder pressures.

not sure what number are you talking about? could you please post it again

 

[67RS427]

what do you guys think as far as dyno numbers?



what do you guys think as far as dyno numbers?

Changing the cam? That will make a world of difference... This is a 5.3l correct? I'd say you're looking at an extra 200hp depending on supporting mods and tuning. Get a nice cam and a little extra spice/timing in your tune and I'm sure you'd make 500whp if I had to make a guess. I'm making about 700whp but my motor is an entirely different beast.

*does your motor have square port heads like my L92? That makes a huge difference. I could be off on my HP estimate but I think it's pretty close. All depends how spicy you wanna get in the end. The motor will hold up fine. My final guess is 500whp with mods listed, more with a cam and slightly more aggressive tune.

 

[67RS427]

not sure what number are you talking about? could you please post it again

Here...

I'd go with a NGK one stage colder than a stock LSA. That would be a NGK TR7IX if you want the "best" iridium plug. However, I will say after going through two sets of them that depending on your boost levels, you may wanna skip the expensive iridium and go with a standard copper plug. I don't want or care if a plug lasts 100k miles with my 900hp "race" engine. I'm more than happy to do spark plug changes every 3k-10k miles on a race truck like mine. So in that case, the cheaper traditional copper plugs actually work much better with high cylinder pressure and will work better with more boost. Right now I'm running the NGK BP7EFS (3526). It took my forever to find a #7 plug that was copper and not platinum or iridium but my truck is much much happier with that plug. It's cheaper too and idles way better, motor is happier in general but I'm also running 15psi which is a higher cylinder pressure.

 

[Chrismnj]

ok, when looking for a spark plug, I need to match Spark Plug Thread Size and Spark Plug Reach correct?

 

[67RS427]

ok, when looking for a spark plug, I need to match Spark Plug Thread Size and Spark Plug Reach correct?

All the LS stuff is the same. The one I gave you will work. You can verify by pulling it up on the NGK site and compare it to your stock plug replacement from the AC Delco site.

 

[Chrismnj]

might get extra set, never know when they will discontinue them.

 

[Chrismnj]

would it be a good idea while doing headers to replace engine mounts?

 

[67RS427]

would it be a good idea while doing headers to replace engine mounts?

Absolutely, they are a common failure point but you are still low mileage. Wouldn't hurt, that's for sure. Just use Delco parts and not a cheap replacement.

 

[Chrismnj]

Absolutely, they are a common failure point but you are still low mileage. Wouldn't hurt, that's for sure. Just use Delco parts and not a cheap replacement.

is there difference between left and right? it is low mileage but its also 2012.

 

[kbuskill]

is there difference between left and right?

Don't replace with the factory style engine mount.

The mounts on these trucks are a hydraulic mount meaning they are basically an oil filled bladder to help reduce vibration.

With all the extra power adders your running you should either go with the solid mounts from AFP....
https://atomicfabandperformance.com/product/07-14-gmt900-poly-motor-mounts/

Or if you want less vibration and a more durable (solid) rubber mount, go with the passenger side engine mount from the Hummer H3 with the 5.3l...

GM part # 25847739

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/263071877011

It is a direct fit for both sides of our trucks. It is also what most Police departments and fleet maintenance use on the PPV Tahoes.

 

[Chrismnj]

That’s interesting.