Its Supercharger time. Supporting Mods?

[fozzi58]

OK so finally the stars aligned and I am in a position to do what I wanted to do since the day I bought the truck. This will probably never hit a drag strip so it will be mostly roll on power/tire roaster and the occasional run from a dig.

I'm ready to pull the trigger on a SC. I am probably going to go with the Whipple 2.9. I was considering the 3.0 they are supposedly releasing but I have a 5.3 L83 and the TVS2.3 is already more than the 5.3 can handle so the 2.9 will satisfy my 5.3 and any chance of a 6.2 down the road. I already have my Kooks headers, catless exhaust and muffler. My AFE CAI is hitting ebay since I am getting the intercooler kit with the Whipple.

I haven't decided on a shop yet. While I would love to do this myself, I don't have the garage to do this is in. Working on a slanted driveway is not going to cut it when this is my DD. So I am either going to have my cousin who has a shop do it or East Coast Supercharging. I heard Chris at ECS is very good and he's been patient with all my questions and even opening up an Affirm link for me for possible financing instead of dumping 10k on my CC. The only reason I am considering my cousin's shop (he is reputable, knowledgeable, and he and the rest of that side of the family are all racers and builders) is because its 15 mins form my house whereas ECS is 1+ hours away. I probably would save a few dollars but its negligible.

My other concern and what I am coming here to ask the community, is what other supporting mods should I seriously consider.

Timing chain? Stronger or longer pushrods? Waterpump? Trans cooler? Pumpkin mods?

Once the SC is done I will probably change my gearing. Its 3.08 now which is crazy tall but I love being at 80MPH under 2k rpm so I will consider after the SC is in if a ring and pinion swap are worth it. I hear welding the tubes to the diff tends to add strength. Is this something I should consider?

I have read multiple times that stronger & longer pushrods will help get some more umph out of the motor. While this isnt a cam swap, the extra height allows a little more air in & out. Not sure if that's a typical "well if it was on the internet it must be true" or not scenario, but I would like to hear from anyone else's experience.

Timing chain? Waterpump? I got 160k out of the 5.3 in my Avalanche and did nothing to that truck, except maintenance. If I am planning more mods at about 100k or so, should I bother with these now?

Trans-cooler. Not sure if I have one or not. Windows sticker says I do but I don't have the tow package. Was it lip service from GM or is this accurate. Should I put in an aftermarket one anyways?

Anything else I should consider? Would appreciate everyone's feedback. Thank you all.

 

[CMoore711]

How many miles are currently on the 5.3 L83 in your Suburban now?

 

[fozzi58]

57k+ Ive changed the oil earlier than the 5k mile recommendation every time and have been using Mobile 1 since the truck broke 5000 miles. I've also had a trans service (pan off - fluid drained, new filter) done at 40k miles. The exhaust cai and tune were done at about 20k Truck runs like a top. No ticks, no ses, trans shifts pretty hard thanks to BBP's tune. I don't beat on it but I do enjoy the occasional WOT a couple times a week.

 

[gat0r]

there are quite a few peeps that just did the 2.9 whipple w/ a tune & called it a day



i have a Maggy 1900 on my '15 w/ CAI, corsa catback & BBP tune & smaller pulley.
i didnt have to do any supporting mods yet. im running 9#s.

LT headers & driveshaft are on my list of things to do
( i wont run smaller pulley until after the above 2 items)
thinkin after my stimmy check & tax return... maybe


might think about new plug wires & spark plugs. (go 1 step colder, so zl1 or zr1 plugs)


if you arent thinking about cranking up the boost... i dont think you'd have to do much.
6psi (6#) should be about what you have after install.

rule of thumb that i hear is:
10#s is safe
at 12#s, you are on borrowed time

so after 10#.... you want to update to a forged rotating assembly.
(you may or may not start having fuel issues @ or above 11#)


then if you are doing that... might as well do a cam -stage2(or bigger) w/ DoD delete & upgraded valve springs


then think about fuel (LT4 or better), LOL (if you arent planning on going e85 or crazy on power... your existing fuel system will tied you over for a bit.)
next you can think about ported throttle body

so how much power do you want & how deep will your wallet allow you to go? hehe

 

[fozzi58]

I forgot about the driveshaft. Its been a while since I laid under the truck - its a 2 piece or 1 piece? I may put money into brakes and the driveshaft before I up the PSI from stock but I wasn't planning on running more than 8 or 9 lbs until I can get around to doing ARP head studs. I was worried that running too much boost was going to blow a head gasket or worse.

Good to know.

 

[gat0r]

driveshaft is 1 piece its a long sucker lol

i just dont do burn outs, so when it grabs traction i dont shock it
& keep it under 100-ish

 

[Eddie Rivera]

there are quite a few peeps that just did the 2.9 whipple w/ a tune & called it a day



i have a Maggy 1900 on my '15 w/ CAI, corsa catback & BBP tune & smaller pulley.
i didnt have to do any supporting mods yet. im running 9#s.

LT headers & driveshaft are on my list of things to do
( i wont run smaller pulley until after the above 2 items)
thinkin after my stimmy check & tax return... maybe


might think about new plug wires & spark plugs. (go 1 step colder, so zl1 or zr1 plugs)


if you arent thinking about cranking up the boost... i dont think you'd have to do much.
6psi (6#) should be about what you have after install.

rule of thumb that i hear is:
10#s is safe
at 12#s, you are on borrowed time

so after 10#.... you want to update to a forged rotating assembly.
(you may or may not start having fuel issues @ or above 11#)


then if you are doing that... might as well do a cam -stage2(or bigger) w/ DoD delete & upgraded valve springs


then think about fuel (LT4 or better), LOL (if you arent planning on going e85 or crazy on power... your existing fuel system will tied you over for a bit.)
next you can think about ported throttle body

so how much power do you want & how deep will your wallet allow you to go? hehe

Is your '15 a 5.3? Which CAI did you use? I just bought the Magnuson TVS2300 and it says to use the factory air box. I would rather use an aftermarket one but not sure which way to go. Have you had it on the dyno yet? I was going to buy the Corsa Exhaust but thought that the 3" pipe might not be enough for power. I have LT headers and I just put an electric exhaust cutout, but I'm not happy with it. What has been your experience? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[gat0r]

Is your '15 a 5.3? Which CAI did you use? I just bought the Magnuson TVS2300 and it says to use the factory air box. I would rather use an aftermarket one but not sure which way to go. Have you had it on the dyno yet? I was going to buy the Corsa Exhaust but thought that the 3" pipe might not be enough for power. I have LT headers and I just put an electric exhaust cutout, but I'm not happy with it. What has been your experience? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

yes... only 5.3 was avail in tahoe/burb.... until like '18 w/ the RST pkg

factory airbox will support your HP on stock pulley (6#) you can then add a better drop in filter.

or i went w/ the GM performance CAI. this way GM wouldnt be likely to void my warranty


i love my Corsa exhaust & i dont even have LTs yet

a single 3" exhaust can handle 500-600HP.
the 6.2 models have 3.5" exhaust & those seem to handle 700-800, just fine

if you have a 5.3 w/ a 2300... you lose some low end TQ, but gain more HP on top end, compared to me.




1st time on dyno w/ callaway/magnuson tune, i had 403HP/400TQ
after BBP tune, i had 430HP
i havent been back since i did GM CAI & smaller pulley... in theory i should be in 445-465 range

i have LTs ordered finally. just need to get a new driveshaft, before i do next dyno run.
w/ LTs, an updated BBP tune, new plugs & wires... hope to be in the 500-520 range




eta:
definitely remove airbox & trim fender opening... you will see what im talking about
then port the box opening to match the fender opening.
that will help a little too

pretty sure someone has a thread on it here

 

[gat0r]

if my dashlogic is reasonably close in estimate... i have a low 5, 0-60 & high13/low14, 1/4mile

 

[STORMIN08]

Here is your fender and airbox area...trim to allow most airflow...I do this on EVERY vehicle I own. I trim as much as possible below the filter, but try to leave all mounting points in tact